Intermittent Solar Operation

rosenkol

New Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2024
Posts
2
Location
Corvallis, OR (3899 NW Jameson Dr.) 97330
After many years of adventuring our RV was destroyed by the top of the world road in Alaska. The road was riddled with so many holes that they could not be avoided. The golf cart batteries were torn loose, resulting in an electrical fire that totaled the fifth wheel. On our return to Oregon we purchased a new 2024 IMAGINE RV (9/7/24). This unit included the following solar system equipment:
  • One 185 watt Furrion solar panel
  • One 190 watt Dometic Go Power solar panel
  • One Furrion 40 amp solar controller
  • Two Pb 6 volt golf cart batteries (CG15) 230amps
This solar system has only worked intermittently.

Here is the solar system pattern based on nearly two months of camping in the deserts of southern California. By 8 or 9 AM the solar system is either charging three plus amps per hour or .02, .04, or .06 amps per hour. If it is the former, it will continue to work the entire day with amperage increasing as the sky becomes brighter. If it is the latter, the solar system will continue to produce voltage but no amperage. When the solar system is working, it will continue to work typically for two days. On one occasion it continued to work for eight days. Eventually the solar system stops working and continues to not work for one or two days. On one occasion it did not work for three days. The above pattern is for when we are camped and not moving to a new campsite. If when the solar system is not working, we drive 30 or more miles, there is a 60% chance that the solar system will begin to work.

Upon returning from southern California, the 40 amp Furrion Solar Controller was replaced by RV Country (Coburg, OR) with a new unit provided by Lippert. This unit worked for two days and then stopped. The techs at Furrion told me to remove the four wires attached to the controller. I was then told to first attach the two wires coming from the solar panels and then wait five minutes before attaching the two wires leading to the batteries. The solar system then began to work and worked for three days before it again stopped working. It now has stopped working for three days.

The solar system of our new RV is driving me crazy. Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated. Larry Rosenkoetter PM me for more.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Very sorry to hear of your loss on the Top of World Hwy. We were there last summer and can attest to the road conditions.

I hate to say it but many people pull out those Furrion controllers and replace with a reliable one (I like Victron). The Furrion controllers just tend to have lots of issues. Sounds like you've tried what you can. I removed mine after having issues and never had problems again. If it works for a few days, you've ruled out the panels or wiring as being the problem so...

If you do decide to replace the controller, do yourself a favor and add a cutoff breaker between the panels and controller, assuming it didn't come with something from the factory. Neither of my recent models did. Good luck!
 
You may want to invest in a shunt (Victron is the best but costs more) to help know what your battery's charge is. The solar output will decline as your batteries become more charged. I agree with @Riverbug, switch to a Victron controller, much more reliable and way better information. If you get the shunt too, the two will work together to give you a clear picture of performance.
 
Shunt monitor is a must so that you can see what's going on. Victron solar controller would be the next logic step once you can see what's going with the batteries and inputs/outputs.
 
You may want to invest in a shunt (Victron is the best but costs more) to help know what your battery's charge is. The solar output will decline as your batteries become more charged. I agree with @Riverbug, switch to a Victron controller, much more reliable and way better information. If you get the shunt too, the two will work together to give you a clear picture of performance.
Some things are worth the money.
Victron stuff just works, everytime.
 
I was then told to first attach the two wires coming from the solar panels and then wait five minutes before attaching the two wires leading to the batteries. The solar system then began to work and worked for three days before it again stopped working. It now has stopped working for three days.

I believe you will find the information given to you is incorrect. The controller should always be connected to the batteries first and then to the panels second. And in reverse order when disconnecting. The battery tells the controller the system operating voltage.
 
I believe you will find the information given to you is incorrect. The controller should always be connected to the batteries first and then to the panels second. And in reverse order when disconnecting. The battery tells the controller the system operating voltage.
I'm not sure how important that is, but it is a good point. If one had a cutoff breaker between the panels and controller you would naturally shut off the breaker, then disconnect or connect everything. So, the batteries and wires to the breaker would always be connected prior to the breaker being turned on.
 
I'm not sure how important that is, but it is a good point. If one had a cutoff breaker between the panels and controller you would naturally shut off the breaker, then disconnect or connect everything. So, the batteries and wires to the breaker would always be connected prior to the breaker being turned on.

I'm no expert on solar but see page 12 of the Victron manual:


I have a Renogy controller and it recommends the same.

My understanding is that if the controller is connected to the battery first, and the controller boots up correctly, the battery can be disconnected from the controller first. The correct voltage settings in the controller will remain intact as long as it is still seeing voltage from the panel. BUT, when the sun goes down and the panel stops producing voltage, the controller will loose correct voltage settings, and when the battery is re-connected the correct charging voltage to the battery is not present.

Hopefully some of the solar experts on the forum will chime in if I'm wrong on this.
 
I'm no expert on solar but see page 12 of the Victron manual:


I have a Renogy controller and it recommends the same.

My understanding is that if the controller is connected to the battery first, and the controller boots up correctly, the battery can be disconnected from the controller first. The correct voltage settings in the controller will remain intact as long as it is still seeing voltage from the panel. BUT, when the sun goes down and the panel stops producing voltage, the controller will loose correct voltage settings, and when the battery is re-connected the correct charging voltage to the battery is not present.

Hopefully some of the solar experts on the forum will chime in if I'm wrong on this.
Well there you go. I didn't remember that instruction. Again, didn't matter in my case as my breaker is switched off until all connections are made so that's good to know I did it right. But I have seen it done backwards on YouTube and didn't seem to cause a problem - maybe he just got lucky though.
 

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