Just installed 100amp ht li time lithium battery, wondering about voltage?

Jerry Davis

Advanced Member
Site Sponsor
RV LIFE Pro
Joined
Apr 19, 2024
Messages
69
Location
Lavale,Md
Have a 2024 303 RLS camper, and just changed out battery to 100amp hr lithium battery. I have 380 watt solar on the roof. I changed out the charge controller a while back to MPPT 100/30 Victron from advice on here. As the one that came with the unit kept failing.

I installed the battery 2 days ago and set the voltage to lithium on the intell-power converter.
It was showing a 14.2 v charge out put, the next day it was at 13.8v and today same. I did call the people at Progressive dynamics, and he said it was a 2 stage charger and voltage would change as battery usage.

The voltage reading to day on battery is 13.7volts. My question to the board is that what it should be ? And is the lithium battery suppose to be at 14.2 volts? The battery is a LI Time with blue tooth

Thank you in advance
 
A LiFePO battery is considered to be fully charged when each cell voltage is right at 3.45 volts. Four cells in series will equal 13.8 volts, so that is right on the money. When a charger starts charging the battery, depending on how it is set and the output voltage it is putting out, it will be in Constant Current mode and as the battery gets closer to being charged, it will then switch to Constant voltage mode. Look at it like this....If you have a battery that has a voltage of say 13.5 volts, it will not charge if you only apply 13.5 volts. On the other hand, if you apply lets say 14.2V, the battery will start charging. Hope that helps a bit.
 
A LiFePO battery is considered to be fully charged when each cell voltage is right at 3.45 volts. Four cells in series will equal 13.8 volts, so that is right on the money. When a charger starts charging the battery, depending on how it is set and the output voltage it is putting out, it will be in Constant Current mode and as the battery gets closer to being charged, it will then switch to Constant voltage mode. Look at it like this....If you have a battery that has a voltage of say 13.5 volts, it will not charge if you only apply 13.5 volts. On the other hand, if you apply lets say 14.2V, the battery will start charging. Hope that helps a bit.
Thank you
I had the regular deep cycle that came with the unit. We went on our first trip back this summer for 2 weeks. When we got home I turned off the battery disconnect and several days the voltage was at 10 volts. Since then, I installed a disconnect on the negative cable to make sure all off.

We are planning on taking a 3-month trip to Florida and Texas late December and I decided to get a lithium battery to avoid possible troubles. Since I discharged the factory one down to nothing.

I just got the LI Time 12v 100 amp Bluetooth with low temp shut off and overcharge for $229. Which I thought was a decent price.

Thanks for feed back
 
Thank you
I had the regular deep cycle that came with the unit. We went on our first trip back this summer for 2 weeks. When we got home I turned off the battery disconnect and several days the voltage was at 10 volts. Since then, I installed a disconnect on the negative cable to make sure all off.

We are planning on taking a 3-month trip to Florida and Texas late December and I decided to get a lithium battery to avoid possible troubles. Since I discharged the factory one down to nothing.

I just got the LI Time 12v 100 amp Bluetooth with low temp shut off and overcharge for $229. Which I thought was a decent price.

Thanks for feed back
Just as a reference point...my LFP battery is sitting right now with a tad under 70% State of Charge (SOC) and the voltage is in the 13.2x range. For winter storage, I will run it down to 50% SOC and then turn the 300A disconnect off. By springtime (early to mid April) it will be down in the mid to upper 30s percentage wise, SOC
 
Have a 2024 303 RLS camper, and just changed out battery to 100amp hr lithium battery. I have 380 watt solar on the roof. I changed out the charge controller a while back to MPPT 100/30 Victron from advice on here. As the one that came with the unit kept failing.

I installed the battery 2 days ago and set the voltage to lithium on the intell-power converter.
It was showing a 14.2 v charge out put, the next day it was at 13.8v and today same. I did call the people at Progressive dynamics, and he said it was a 2 stage charger and voltage would change as battery usage.

The voltage reading to day on battery is 13.7volts. My question to the board is that what it should be ? And is the lithium battery suppose to be at 14.2 volts? The battery is a LI Time with blue tooth

Thank you in advance
The 14.2 volts is where the charger cuts off when charging in bulk mode. I was concerned (through ignorance) when I first saw very little charging occurring on a sunny day. It was because the batteries were already charged and the charger had cut back on the voltage to not overcharge them.
 
To charge a battery, it's got to have a higher voltage than the battery. Those numbers are nothing I would be concerned about.
 
Presently going through something similar. I had put in a lithium battery thinking that it would cure
battery not being charged, but we still came home with a dead battery on our last trip.
After a tech checking things out, it was determined that the solar charger was defective, and GD sent a replacement. I had to order a "dc to dc charger" in order to charge off the truck, because the truck
won't recognize a lithium battery because there is no or not enough resistance, and you burn up your alternator. And now on order, have to replace the fuse/circuit box because it does not have the firmware to support a lithium battery, even though the tag on the cover says that it will. There is a tag on the inside of the door that says what firmware it has. We have to remove the box and send it in so that they can revise and upgrade the firmware. Hopefully this will take care of everything.
 
Presently going through something similar. I had put in a lithium battery thinking that it would cure
battery not being charged, but we still came home with a dead battery on our last trip.
After a tech checking things out, it was determined that the solar charger was defective, and GD sent a replacement. I had to order a "dc to dc charger" in order to charge off the truck, because the truck
won't recognize a lithium battery because there is no or not enough resistance, and you burn up your alternator. And now on order, have to replace the fuse/circuit box because it does not have the firmware to support a lithium battery, even though the tag on the cover says that it will. There is a tag on the inside of the door that says what firmware it has. We have to remove the box and send it in so that they can revise and upgrade the firmware. Hopefully this will take care of everything.
There is no truth to the idea that your truck “won’t recognize” a lithium battery, nor will it damage your alternator.

Your truck will supply about the same power to a lithium battery as it would to a lead-acid battery.

The load on the alternator will be greater with the DC-DC converter than with the factory connection. The factory connection current is limited by voltage drop in the wiring to about 7 or 8A. The DC-DC converter allows the battery to draw more power from the truck.
 
After everything gets back and re-installed I will check out the truck if need be.....I've received the new solar charger from GD, have a dc to dc charger, and had returned the circuit box to the mfg. to
upgrade the firmware. I got a call from the circuit box tech and he asked a few questions, one notable
that he wanted to know what the approximate distance would be from the battery to the circuit box.
Since it is a 26' trailer, I told him probably around 12' to 15', as the box sits a little more than halfway in the trailer. He said it could make a difference because of the wire gauge that GD uses. They sent the box back (sending to the Lippert tech I'm using) and UPS somehow dropped the box and ran over it and it was destroyed and in pieces. They have sent a brand new box now and just waiting on some decent weather to get everything put back in and running.:rolleyes: Hopefully.
 
What guage did they use on your trailer? Mine is 6 gauge from the converter to batts and also from solar. It’s a short run from the solar controller, but the converter is probably 12-15’ or more when you figure in bends in the wire.

On a side note, I keep seeing about a different battery cutoff when people use a LiTime battery. My batteries have an on/off/reset button on each one. I just turn them off after I hit the OEM disconnect to store. Do the newer ones not have that?
 
Concerning Li Time batteries there is a post on irv2 or rvforum that his Li Time battery is giving him grief over the tongue jack and Li Time says their battery is not for that type use and won't warranty a fairly new battery. Anyone have an issue like that as Im about ready to get two 100ah and Ive got hydraulic levelers and Onan 5500 genny ?
 
Concerning Li Time batteries there is a post on irv2 or rvforum that his Li Time battery is giving him grief over the tongue jack and Li Time says their battery is not for that type use and won't warranty a fairly new battery. Anyone have an issue like that as Im about ready to get two 100ah and Ive got hydraulic levelers and Onan 5500 genny ?
Lithium's normally don't have the CCA (cold cranking amps) of regular batteries. So large amp discharge like starting a generator may be an issue. Speaking about Battleborn lithium's, they recommend 3 100AH batteries if you have a generator for starting purposes. But I do know someone that only had two and never had a issue starting the Genny.
 
If you read the literature for the autodetect converter, the documentation says for it to autodetect the battery the battery needs to be less than 6 feet from the charger and the wiring a minimum of 6 gage.

Which Grand design didn't follow, as my battery is every bit of 12 feet and the wire isn't bigger than 12 gage. so it never autodetected the battery. Just better to disconnect the lead acid charger and install a proper lithium charger.
 
If you read the literature for the autodetect converter, the documentation says for it to autodetect the battery the battery needs to be less than 6 feet from the charger and the wiring a minimum of 6 gage.

Which Grand design didn't follow, as my battery is every bit of 12 feet and the wire isn't bigger than 12 gage. so it never autodetected the battery. Just better to disconnect the lead acid charger and install a proper lithium charger.

I moved my battery 1 ft from the converter with 4 gauge wire. I was finally able to get the WF9875-AD into Lithium mode by significantly discharging the battery but it still would not stay in Lithium mode. I sent it to WFCO and they installed a jumper to lock it into Lithium mode. They paid for all the shipping cost.
Bottom line, the auto detect isn't dependable.
 
Concerning Li Time batteries there is a post on irv2 or rvforum that his Li Time battery is giving him grief over the tongue jack and Li Time says their battery is not for that type use and won't warranty a fairly new battery. Anyone have an issue like that as Im about ready to get two 100ah and Ive got hydraulic levelers and Onan 5500 genny ?
This isn’t anything specific to the brand. Many LiFePo battery BMS limit output current to 50A. You need to know your max draw and max output.
 
Concerning Li Time batteries there is a post on irv2 or rvforum that his Li Time battery is giving him grief over the tongue jack and Li Time says their battery is not for that type use and won't warranty a fairly new battery. Anyone have an issue like that as Im about ready to get two 100ah and Ive got hydraulic levelers and Onan 5500 genny ?
How can I find the information that you mention?

I was working with a guy who had warranty denied by LiTime because he had Lippert Ground Control leveling system, which uses DC motors. He shared correspondence that he had with LiTime so I know it was legit. They specifically said not to use with "jacks". Basically, just about every camper has a front jack of some kind! This guy found out, without LiTime's serious lack of support, that his problem was a low voltage disconnect (LVD) and nothing related to Ground Control.

He had 200A continuous, 600A 5s, 230Ah battery so Ground Control with 50 A circuit breaker should be no problem, IF LiTime BMS does not have a fatal flaw. Lippert says 60Ah LFP is fine for GC. His loads were low with gas fridge, no inverter installed, ...

From what I have read (and heard from one manufacture & read in manual of other) once battery goes into LVD you have five days to get is started, and after that it can be very difficult if not possible. The battery is now degrading and if it can be used as intended is unknown. They offered him 20% discount to purchase a new battery because he has Ground Control.

Heard second or third hand mention of LiTime problems driving hydraulic systems (have motors).

LiTime's concern is in-rush current (way too fast for especially most/all circuit breakers or most fuses to catch) from electric motors killing BMS, (this is my comment) which can be roughly 4/5 times the motor running current.

If you are using LiTime to start Onan, this also is a real issue. They say not to use as starter batteries, on their web site. Look deep into web page on battery, it says not ok for starting.

Expect any possible reason to deny warranty, money spent to ship battery to them for evaluation and months of delay if you get any resolution.

Please contact LiTime tech support and ask them some very specific questions... Please let me know what you hear! Thanks Anyone reading all this do not believe me and contact LiTime on the web form link. It is easy and fast. Tougher questions take more time to hear back.

I have two barely used LiTime batteries that are OK so far. Pushing these BMS could be an issue? Sure the cells may last a very long time under good conditions, but I do not know if many of these custom BMS are tested for longevity. A BMS can work for a while, just fine, but if the MOSFETS are heavily loaded they may degrade with use and fail. So, because it is working is not an indication that it will work for a good amount of time. Proper sizing is important with any brand.

Added 1/11/2025: I will run both 100Ah to reduce how much current BMS see when using front jack and Ground Control. If I had and inverter, I would make sure it was off or lightly loaded at same time. People are running GC with single 100Ah LiTime.
 
Last edited:
Interesting. Does the discharge amp rating double in a parallel setup like the Ah’s double?

Looking at the manual for my LiTime batts and thinking about this stuff. This is from my manual. I’ve got two of these.

Battery Management System (BMS) Board100A
Max. Continuous Charge / Discharge Current ®100A
Max. Discharge Current 5 Seconds300A to 500A
Max. Continuous Load Power ®1280W
 

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top Bottom