Large gash in exterior fiberglass

Grandesigner

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2020
Messages
1,522
Location
Central NM, USA!
I was very surprised at this, caused by getting too close and the rear end swinging out as I passed by very sturdy mailbox while turning sharp. It's about 6" long by 1/2" tall and all the way thru, best as I can tell...
Funny thing is, I'm very close to a wall going into my backyard and the rear corner has never scraped the wall. So I didn't think the rear swings that much.
Anyway, as a big DIYer, looking for suggestions and assessments of the damage based on this pic. I've already got the metal corner reasonably in place, it was bent back a bit. Also covered area with clear tape just for temporary rain protection.

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The redneck fix would be to squirt it full of caulk and then put some duct tape on it. <grin>
 
Well the positive is, if there is such a thing, it appears to be mostly in the decal area. Would contact GD customer support and ask if it can be filled in with something. Then just have the decal repaired over it.
 
I can say that I have covered a crack (caused by not paying attention when running the side out) with a decal of Wile E Coyote. I filled the crack/depression with silicone, leveled it out with a scrapper and put on the decal. I have not told the wife about the reason for the decal. My brother-in-law did ask and while I told him, I also threatened him with his life if he told his sister. So far so good after 3 years....
 
Limit what you protect it with as to provide the least contamination. Totally repairable. The corner trim and decals are very inexpensive from Grand Design. A good body shop that does fiberglass work will find that to be an easy money maker repair and blend.
 
Thanks all for the advice and humor. Just remember to stay alert even when you've been trying to get home for hours and you are tired. We spent a ridiculous amount of time getting the trailer tanks dumped that day...
Feel free to continue with responses.
 
Thanks all for the advice and humor. Just remember to stay alert even when you've been trying to get home for hours and you are tired. We spent a ridiculous amount of time getting the trailer tanks dumped that day...
Feel free to continue with responses.

Been there, done that! I have a driveway half broken out of the bedrock and my 'catch' was the hitch arm and J-wrap on the rear curbside corner on a bit of the shelf rock. Repainted the hitch arm and replaced the J-wrap and all better, but I had 3 weeks to keep reminded of my poor decision to take the driveway after sundown and 12 hours on the road...
 
How good are your fiberglassing skills? That would be the best fix.
I fixed an ouch on one of my class A RVs with a fiberglass kit, no leaks.
Just take your time with it.
Rich
 
Not sure I would need 14 oz...maybe the 2 oz size would be enough?

Yes, from the picture I would guess the small would be enough. Don't mix it all at once. I would put a layer in the back 1/2 of the gouge, let it cure, then do another layer to fill the gap and smooth it out. You can round the front edge of the gouge with a file or sandpaper so it isn't a sharp edge to help avoid future cracking along the edge but this stuff is very pliable and adheres very well.
 
Yes, from the picture I would guess the small would be enough. Don't mix it all at once. I would put a layer in the back 1/2 of the gouge, let it cure, then do another layer to fill the gap and smooth it out. You can round the front edge of the gouge with a file or sandpaper so it isn't a sharp edge to help avoid future cracking along the edge but this stuff is very pliable and adheres very well.

Thanks...I was wondering about using foam backer rod to fill in the deepest parts of the gash. Would that provide a suitable backing for using less of the goop?
 
Thanks...I was wondering about using foam backer rod to fill in the deepest parts of the gash. Would that provide a suitable backing for using less of the goop?

Yes, you could do that as well. If you have a solid backing before applying the final fill/top layer, that would make it easier to avoid having it "bulge" out as you try to flatten the top coat level if that makes sense. So, if the foam backer is flexing, skim a coat over the backer, let it cure, then finish it off.
 
I only use fiberglass to repair fiberglass. Fixed my class A and a few boats with resin, cloth, mat and sandpaper. Not difficult if you take your time.
I would never use some kind of putty.
Just my .02. YMMV
Rich
 
Here are some close ups before and after some prep. Not sure what to do with the broken part that was smashed into the body, or what is behind it...
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I am surprised how thin the outer wall is.
 
Decal looks familiar. Less serious than your dilemma . . .I suffered an sizable scratch on my "bronze-greenish" decal. Couldn't find matching touch-up paint even from auto collision shops. Purchased a GD decal priced at only $16 so I ordered 2 in case I goofed on first attempt. Thank you GD. (haven't yet installed awaiting surface cleaner fluid)
 
OP, you cemented my methods for turning in the culdesac to get to my house. When I moved to a long bed I was enamored with the realization I could make a u-turn with ease. Did it a few times. I’ve since decided to keep it as a 3 point turn to not lose a battle against a brick mailbox due to tail swing.
 
OP, you cemented my methods for turning in the culdesac to get to my house. When I moved to a long bed I was enamored with the realization I could make a u-turn with ease. Did it a few times. I’ve since decided to keep it as a 3 point turn to not lose a battle against a brick mailbox due to tail swing.

And I avoid U turns on pavement to prevent binding the suspension up. On dirt, no problem...
 

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