level creeping

Also the reason the right and left rear levelers have a return line connecting them is:

If you use the RETRACT ALL mode then all levelers and frt LG will retract....
 
Also the reason the right and left rear levelers have a return line connecting them is:

If you use the RETRACT ALL mode then all levelers and frt LG will retract....

You'd have to have a return line even if there were no such thing as RETRACT ALL, and the Hydac valves still have to be energized for all three of those functions to work.
 
Narrowed down to left rear leveling. Bypass testing the two jacks and hydac valve today to find out which is leaking.
 
Great day getting to the root cause. Like I tell my engineers at work, guess cause analysis is worthless. Root cause analysis rules. The chat with Lippert on how to "bypass check" each component in the system to find the leak was invaluable. Lippert guy was great. Call them if you have an issue.
 
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I am late to this discussion, and know that it has been fixed, but for others with this issue....First things first...Be sure that the leveler feet are on a solid surface such as a concrete slab etc. Ground settling can trick you into thinking the jacks are leaking
 
This has been a long and winding road but I think I finally got to the bottom of it.

I got tricked into thinking that if the coach was drifting out of level, it has to be the jacks or the valves to them. I checked those out and ended up changing a couple of valves that were questionable and the drifting improved but did not go completely away. Then I noticed it only happens when the slides are out. I verified the Hydac valve to the slides was good. I then pulled all the slides in and then closed all the needle valves to the slides except one and moved the slide all the way out. I did it for each slide, one by one, waiting a day or two in between. The level only drifted if I had the bunkhouse slide out with only that needle valve open. I'm guessing I've got some internal leak by in the bunkhouse slide cylinder (I'm not losing fluid so no external leaks). I am going to try the fork oil additive to see if that helps. If not I'll have to decide if it's worth the trouble to drop the chloroplast and replace it. Wouldn't you know the bunkhouse was the last one I tested. When I opened the needle valve after closing the other two, the slide moved a little so I suspected that would be it.
 
Careful with the shock oil cure, it may be causing further failure issues.
If you go that route consider a small dose of marvel mystery oil instead.
 

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