Lifting the trailer!

[nguyenbio]

I've posted on here regarding my new truck and my 303rls. It looks like the best I can get is 6" of bed rail clearance but I'm about 4" nose high (depending on how you measure it). Spoke to Lippert and they said the frames on the 5ers are actually cambered up to 1.5" to preload them for the box above.

Lippert continually states that they do not approve a subframe addition but they say many do do it out of warranty and have not had a problem. After speaking to Morryde, they state the subframe is the only safe way to lift a trailer and work on Lippert frame all the time. Actually after speaking to a dozen shops, who all have worked from Lippert frames included, the common belief is that the subframe if done correctly will actually strengthen the frame as compared to factory.

My warranty is up in May and it looks like this is what I'm going to do. Found a shop out here that specializes in welding and fabrication for trailers. They have done dozens of of frames and will charge about $700.00.

Just wanted to provide an update....

 

[Cate&Rob]

Hi Joe,

Thanks for the update. I have contacted GD directly on this subject and their advice is that the only way to gain clearance to the frame for 16" wheels and tires on a 303 is to do exactly what you are contemplating. I don't need nearly the lift that you do, but I need an inch or two to get level. I don't like the idea of messing with the original Correct Trac alignment system by cutting it away and welding it back on. I like the spacer idea which seems (from this link) to be well thought out.
http://www.trailerblocks.com/collec...00lb-square-axle-1-3-4-wide-spring-tie-plates

I am also thinking that if I do this. . . why couldn't I use thicker spacers on the street side than on the curb side to solve the ever-present low left side ?
The pre-cambered frame is interesting new information. I just don't see how this could work with the rest of the structure basically built to level and square building techniques.



Rob

 

[TucsonJim]

Joe - I took a look at those pictures you sent me. I think their design is very robust. In fact, if you're willing to forego any warranty claims on the frame, you should be able to install the changes immediately.

Jim

 

[WhittleBurner]

Here's a link that lippert approved for raising the trailer.
http://www.granddesignowners.com/fo...2500-and-303RLS/page4?highlight=towing+issues
They will not warranty the work that was done but said it will not void anything else. We have 16 in wheels on our 303 and they are bottoming out. It's going to the welding shop next week to be raised up. Because of the arctic package we don't want to put a lot of heat up by the frame. We're using a equalizer hanger and welding that to the bottom of the one that is already there. That way both sides will be equal and so will the hole to remount the equalizer. It will also have a brace going across for strength. We will also put a brace going across from one bracket to the one on the other side of the camper. That will keep them from flexing from side to side.

 

[nguyenbio]

Here is an example of what I'll be doing. It will be one or the other.

 

[Canyonlight]

Attached link shows pictures of Eagleheads completed welded raised axle build.......may be on top of page 2......along with all his earlier posts on this lengthy matter. Have not seen any posts from him in awhile.....would be interested in how this is all working out.

Dan

http://www.granddesignowners.com/forum/forum.php

Looks like my link will not take you directly to the page and pictures so do this. This is a closed thread and I imagine there is an easier way to get to this but it is above my pay grade……my wife could easily do though !

On Marcy and Gary’s post with the link, click on Eaglehead’s member link or picture (or just go to his member page) and select “View Forum Posts.” Page down to the post link “My issue is pretty much resolved at this point” and that will take you to the thread and top of page 2 has the pictures.

Dan

 

[Cate&Rob]

Here are the pictures from Eaglehead's post.
Note that he only changed the centre attachment point, so didn't have to mess with the Correct Trac system.



Rob

 

[WhittleBurner]

The problem with doing the two ends is you would have to remove the cover and insulation before putting any kind of heat there to do the job.

 

[nguyenbio]

I dropped the 5er off this morning! It will be done in a few days.



There have been other members who have tried running 16" tires, but some have bottom out due to lack of travel room. As far as extending the center hanger, if you can picture the factory mounts as putting the springs in the shape of a smiley face. If you drop the center hanger, it will actually lower that attachment point in comparison to the mounting points on each side. I understand that that will give me 1.5" of height but no shop will warranty the work , some won't even perform it, and Lippert states that only the modification will not be warranted. As far as my factory warranty goes, it is up in May anyways.



What if a shackle does give way, and the trailer suffers damage from the hanger extension; Lippert will easily claim that the damage was done from the mod.....which wasn't warrantied. In the end, only I am out of however much damages are. No vicarious liability there.



Okay, now if you build a subframe, you are theoretically not changing the angles of the spring mounts whatsoever. You are increasing clearance for tire travel, but most importantly, you will tow level. My total height after modification will be 13'1" with the recent addition of a second air upfront, towing level, 7-8" of bed clearance, and a solid subframe that I won't worry about going down the street,

 

[Dave and Monica]

I'm surprised that Lippert would propose that you only drop the center hanger, not the ends. I can see that you are changing the suspension geometry as the mounting points of the springs will not be level. Is it a minor enough of a change that it's insignificant?

Dave

 

[Cate&Rob]

To keep this in the right order . . . paraphrasing the previous really long discussion . . . Eaglehead came up with the plan to drop only the centre attachment. Per that dialogue, he had discussion with both Grand Design and Lippert and they were OK with this plan.

Grand Design's response to my inquiry about this need, is that . . . if I want to do this on my own . . . I should have a spacer square tube welded between the frame rails and the suspension hangers . . . exactly as Joe is planning.

I am still thinking towards the spacer blocks between springs and axle . . . with slightly thicker blocks on the left side than on the right.

Rob

 

[nguyenbio]

BTW... I'm going up 3".