Lippert through the frame slide inop

[Garyvv]

On my Reflection 29RS the Lippert through the frame (not schwintec) doesn’t work. The in and out switch only makes a whirling noise but no movement. I can move the slide manually. I strongly suspect the actuator, motor, or both. Has anybody had this problem? Did you remove the coroplast to get at the motor, or just cut a hole in it? Does any body have a part number for the actuator and motor? Is it a do it yourself job or get a pro?
Thanks in advance.

 

[Mr. Goodwrench]

Sounds like the shear pin has broken that connects the motor to the screw shaft. If you can determine approximately where the motor is, I would cut a 3 sided flap in the coroplast and stick a light up there and try to see the connection. Driving the broken pin out might be challenging because you would have to have both ends of the broken pin lined up to drive it out. Guess it depends on how handy you are. I would have a look at least before calling in a pro.

 

[gbkims]

On my Reflection 29RS the Lippert through the frame (not schwintec) doesn’t work. The in and out switch only makes a whirling noise but no movement. I can move the slide manually. I strongly suspect the actuator, motor, or both. Has anybody had this problem? Did you remove the coroplast to get at the motor, or just cut a hole in it? Does any body have a part number for the actuator and motor? Is it a do it yourself job or get a pro?
Thanks in advance.

Might be stripped plastic gear in the gearbox.

Right Side Slide Problem - https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/sho...-Slide-Problem?p=179585&viewfull=1#post179585

 

[Garyvv]

Might be stripped plastic gear in the gearbox.

Right Side Slide Problem - https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/sho...-Slide-Problem?p=179585&viewfull=1#post179585

That was a great link that led to other links, thanks. One of the links referenced cutting the coraplast where you think the motor is and trouble shoot from there. I think that’s what I’ll do.

 

[Garyvv]

A update on my through the frame slide out problem. After doing the L shaped slit in the coroplast I found that the three tack welds attaching the motor and actuator to the frame were broken. My local shop was able to weld the angle back on and I was able to use my motor and actuator. A new actuator and motor was going to be about $600. It took me all day to get it off, get it welded, and back on again but retirement time is free.

 

[SGT ROC]

Good to see you got it fixed, sad to see that this is the second post today about shoddy welds, or it seems more likely forgetting to finish the welds. Welding is not that complicated, and you should finish the weld once you get the item tacked.