Lippert TI-421 Weatherproof Ramp Doors Weep Holes - CHECK YOURS!

Thorvald

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This a follow up to the thread "Weep Holes", thanks to jjbbrewer we found out there is a Lippert Technical Instruction TI-421 to perform a simple modification to the Weather Proof Ramp Doors to allow water to escape.

https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/showthread.php/50527-Ramp-door-weep-holes

If you have one of these, it applies to you:

LCI Weatherproof Ramp Door Decal.jpg

These "Weatherproof" Ramp Doors supposedly have no wood or other materials inside that can be damaged by water but if LCI though it was important enough to make a TI about it, I suspect it could cause issues down the road.

Lippert TI's for the ramp doors are located here:
https://support.lci1.com/ramp-doors

TI-421 is here:
https://support.lci1.com/documents/ti-421
https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws.com/technical-information-sheets/doors/ccd-0006231.pdf

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In the Technical Instruction it explains to order a pair of grommets (to dress the holes and make them look nice), those grommet's are:

SNAP BUSHING - .25 X .57 X .41 - BLACK (2058)
SKU: 2021132888
Price: $2.95 USD
Qty: 2

https://store.lci1.com/snap-bushing-25-x-57-x-41-black-2058-2021132888

Order 4 or more of them since they are so cheap (and shipping is not), that way you have spares if one falls out and can help out other campers with the same doors.

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These grommets are 1/2 inch and stamped:

Heyco
SB-500-4
(Black)

https://www.heyco.com/Hole_Plugs/product.cfm?product=Snap-Bushings-1

IMG_2872.jpg

IMG_2873.jpg
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The TI asks for a 1/2" hole drilled in two spots, that is a very large hole in an aluminum frame that you are only supposed to penetrate on side so definitely take your time.

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Here was the procedure I used after reading the Technical Instruction:

1. Mark the area with painters tape
2. Measure for the center of the hole (try to get it PERFECT as this hole will be right against the bottom of the door frame inside).
3. Center punch the hole to ensure the drill bit will not walk
4. Start with 1/8 drill bit and drill with your fingers/hand/whatever braced against the surface. You only want to go through the first outer wall, not all the way through! Go slow and apply just a little pressure off and on to ensure you don't go crazy. It's a very deep door inside (more than one inch so it's pretty hard to go through the second side but still doesn't hurt to be careful). You will likely get quite a stream of water coming out. Let it finish before moving on.
5. Move to 1/4 drill bit, yet more water
6. Move to 3/8 drill bit, again more water
7. Finally finish with the 1/2 inch drill bit and then let hole weep until done.
(If you just start with a 1/2 inch bit you will almost guarantee to wobble and end up with an oblong hole unless you do this often).
8. Vacuum and deburr the hole so the grommet will sit flush.
9. Insert the grommet
10. Ensure the grommet will stay or once the hole is dry, use black silicone to hold it in there (if you made the hole too large).

Note: A step bit will make a MUCH cleaner hole once you move past the 1/4 inch pilot hole Just watch you do not oversize!

Optional: If your trailer is perfectly level just raise the tongue and use the stabilizers/jacks to put a bit of a lean to one side, then all the water should move down to one of the holes and come out.

(Due to the 5 picture limit, I'll post the rest below).
 

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Marking the hole:

IMG_2857.jpg

Here is the start of the water after the 1/4 inch hole, it ran like this for over four minutes. I gave up timing it.

IMG_2851.jpg

Eventually slowed to a trickle but as the hole was enlarged it kept coming out (water depth was below the initial holes).

IMG_2855.jpg


Here is the final hole showing just how close the base is and why you need to be perfect (this one was using a regular drill bit hence the need to deburr:

IMG_2860.jpg

Here is the other hole using a step bit to finish it, much cleaner and no need to deburr (tape was removed to show the hole edge):

IMG_2864.jpg
 
Here is the final result with the grommets installed:

IMG_2861.jpg

IMG_2862.jpg

Definitely feel better knowing water can get out now as it used to pour out of the bolt holes when lowering the ramp.

Cheers
Tim

P.S. I wish they would have a service to let an owner know when a technical bulletin comes out but I guess that is what these forums are for!
 
Hey Tim - excellent post! Thanks much for the detail on the procedure and for letting us know about the excellent results.

It's shocking how much water you got out. Mine's next.

Thanks again!
 
Great info.

My 25G is a 2021 model and the ramp door does not have the "CERTIFIED WEATHERPROOD RAMP DOOR" sticker.
I know I have had water intrusion. I have seen water come out around bolts.

Think I can drill these weep holes even though not "CERTIFED..."?

Thanks
John
 
Hey Tim - excellent post! Thanks much for the detail on the procedure and for letting us know about the excellent results.

It's shocking how much water you got out. Mine's next.

Thanks again!


Wondering if you did this and if your door has the certified sticker?

Thanks

John
 
Think I can drill these weep holes even though not "CERTIFED..."?

It seems the answer is "yes". I just did my "non certified" door this morning and it looks pretty much the same as what [MENTION=12468]Thorvald[/MENTION] posted earlier.

20231117_102926.jpg
 
Did you have water come out as well?

No. I've had it leak out of the latch mount holes when putting door into ramp position before so I know water's gotten in there.

It's been pretty dry here for the last few months (not counting one light snowstorm) so I'm not surprised I didn't find anything.
 
I did mine last weekend, no water came out, but I have had the door open and closed several times since the last trip in which the water has drained. A very easy project that took maybe 15-20 minutes.

Thanks to all the previous posters for this, a very worthwhile easy project.

I want to add, while doing this, check the joint between the upper metal bracket for the door and the fiberglass siding (not the door). The silicone between the two on mine had separated enough for water to seep through and get inside the back of the trailer.
 
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Do you know if this can be done on an older door? We have a 2017 Momentum and have had to replace the door once and the wood on the floor inside the garage twice. I'm hoping this will work on my door too.
 

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