Low Temps Now a Burst Water Line

[Dagwood_55]

'17 303RLS.So I've been camping for a week in Kansas at a city campsite with electricity. I knew to keep my heater going during the night to keep the basement and under belly with some heat. But with the temp getting down to 16 and 18 for a couple of mornings my island kitchen sink froze up. Then thawed during the day. The second night it froze up and did'nt thaw until the second day. But then the pump will cycle on and off which tells me there is a crack in the line.

Tomorrow I will drop the belly pan and fix the line, NP. But I thought there was a small amount of heat vented to underneath to keep this from happening. Apparently not. So what can I do for the future??

thanks

 

[FT4NOW]

If you're going to drop the bottom, you can wrap the lines in pipe insulation. Another helpful hint for the island is to leave the cabinet doors open at night, we do that when it will be below freezing temps and have never had the island lines freeze. We also monitor the temp and ensure the furnace will run when below freezing and keep electric heaters running for the living spaces.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[CWSWine]

Were about in Kansas, are you? If you are close I can give you hand fixing the problem.

 

[Buckskin]

I had problems with my duct work on 2018 Imagine. Some duct line wear torn and not connected to vent. The basement duct line was just hanging from furnace air handler and not routed through hole in floor to basement.
I would check to make sure duct line for basement is routed to basement. On my old camper I used water line heat tapes that came on at freezing to prevent pipes from freezing; they are safe and work.

 

[Dagwood_55]

Were about in Kansas, are you? If you are close I can give you hand fixing the problem.

Thanks for the offer. But I got home last night from Parsons, which is in the SE part of the state, not too far from Joplin MO.

So I'll drop the belly pan this morning, which I am dearly dreading. I sure wish there was a easier way to go about accessing the underneath......

 

[gbkims]

I saw my lines (cold, hot, fresh water tank) running down from basement were bundled together to the Low Point Drain Tees, then continue till the FW tank line separates from cold/hot lines that run upward to the kitchen island.
Put pipe insulation around the bundled lines past the low drain points till they separate, then one pipe insulation over cold/hot lines up into island.
I can't get to the lines running up into the basement w/o access panel or dropping the coroplast so that's for later on.
The low point drain pipes hanging down look like they'd freeze 1st as Lizardqing had mentioned Fulltiming in Real Winter Conditions, Challenges and Lessons So Far

 

[Second Chance]

Unless GD has changed things, the lines to the kitchen island are not wrapped and just lay on top of the Coroplast underbelly. We had single-digit temps and 40 MPH winds at Aberdeen Proving Ground two Christmases ago and the kitchen lines froze (fortunately, no damage, though). In my case, the small heat duct going back to that area had been smashed flat between the Coroplast and a frame cross-member. I cut an access port in the Coroplast, put foam pipe insulation on as much of both water lines as I could get to and put a couple of layers of "bubble foil" insulation between the water lines and the Coroplast. I then opened up and rerouted the heat duct. We've had no problems with freezing since. Since then, we've been fine with just a space heater on a thermostat in the basement and the fireplace at night (no main furnace) until the temps get below 28 for more than an hour or two in the morning. Saves a lot of propane.

Rob

 

[Chiefblueman]

Unless GD has changed things, the lines to the kitchen island are not wrapped and just lay on top of the Coroplast underbelly. We had single-digit temps and 40 MPH winds at Aberdeen Proving Ground two Christmases ago and the kitchen lines froze (fortunately, no damage, though). In my case, the small heat duct going back to that area had been smashed flat between the Coroplast and a frame cross-member. I cut an access port in the Coroplast, put foam pipe insulation on as much of both water lines as I could get to and put a couple of layers of "bubble foil" insulation between the water lines and the Coroplast. I then opened up and rerouted the heat duct. We've had no problems with freezing since. Since then, we've been fine with just a space heater on a thermostat in the basement and the fireplace at night (no main furnace) until the temps get below 28 for more than an hour or two in the morning. Saves a lot of propane.

Rob

I did something similar to this. I installed pipe insulation on the lines running to the island and supported them to the bottom of the floor. I formed a trough around them using bubble foil insulation. The 2 inch duct from the furnace was branched into 3 or four outlets. All the heat was exhausted at the first in line. I created dampers so they all flowed more or less evenly, then stuck one into the end of the trough. When the furnace runs I can open the island door and feel a slight movement of air.