Metal Valve Stem

Papahoosh

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2018
Posts
304
Location
Tampa FL area
Greetings,
I am looking into replacing the rubber valve stem with a metal one since I have external TPMS. I had a metal one installed on the tire years ago, but when I replaced the tire at a Walmart store, they also replaced the valve stem too, I didn't notice it until it was too late to go back and recover it. Apparently the stem comes in different sizes. How would I know what size I need for my rim?
Tire size is 235/80R16
 
Greetings,
I am looking into replacing the rubber valve stem with a metal one since I have external TPMS. I had a metal one installed on the tire years ago, but when I replaced the tire at a Walmart store, they also replaced the valve stem too, I didn't notice it until it was too late to go back and recover it. Apparently the stem comes in different sizes. How would I know what size I need for my rim?
Take it back to the shop that removed it and make them put a metal stem on there. They will have the correct size.
 
Greetings,
I am looking into replacing the rubber valve stem with a metal one since I have external TPMS. I had a metal one installed on the tire years ago, but when I replaced the tire at a Walmart store, they also replaced the valve stem too, I didn't notice it until it was too late to go back and recover it. Apparently the stem comes in different sizes. How would I know what size I need for my rim?
Tire size is 235/80R16
This is not really a DIY project. The bead on the tire must be broken off the rim at a minimum, or possibly totally dismounted in order to install the stem.
Have a tire shop do it.
 
This is not really a DIY project. The bead on the tire must be broken off the rim at a minimum, or possibly totally dismounted in order to install the stem.
Have a tire shop do it.
True...but don't expect all tire shop guys to really know what they are talking about. Not sure about the tire shop guys here in my town. They all look at me like I'm from Mars for asking to balance trailer tires..and I had to tell them what metal valve stems would fit my rims.
 
True...but don't expect all tire shop guys to really know what they are talking about. Not sure about the tire shop guys here in my town. They all look at me like I'm from Mars for asking to balance trailer tires..and I had to tell them what metal valve stems would fit my rims.
When I was young and broke, I was purchasing some used tires..The balancing charge was gonna be as much as the tires cost. The old gentleman behind the counter suggested that I could save some money by not balancing the rear tires. He said I would not be able to tell the difference.
Now one could not do a rotation, but with cheap used tires, that as not going to be a concern.
Our trailer tires are mounted on solid one piece non steering axles. I have had some of my towable RV tires balanced over the last 30+ years, when the shop threw it in for free.... No longer young or broke I buy top of the line new tires, so they often throw it in to make the sale.
I have never noticed the difference between balanced or unbalanced on my RVs.

Now that said, if one wants their trailer tires balanced, be sure to request that they use a lug plate to do it...And watch them to be sure they do it. Shops hate to do it. I have caught them not doing several times.

Most trailer rims are lug centric. This means that the large center pilot hole is not always the exact center of the wheel. So if that hole cannot be used to balance it. If it is, it will likely be further out of balance than it would be without any weights on it.
 
In the last few years, I've not found any shops that will do a lug centric balance of tires. They have all said that the way they do it, it's not necessary. So I have forgone balancing and use the Centra-Matic. Like you I don't know that I can tell the difference between balanced and non-balanced. :)
 
Most trailer rims are lug centric. This means that the large center pilot hole is not always the exact center of the wheel. So if that hole cannot be used to balance it. If it is, it will likely be further out of balance than it would be without any weights on it.
With rims being built cnc controlled.....I do not agree at all with the further out of balance without any weights. Years ago the difference between hub centric and lug centric was potentially large. IMO.....not anymore.
Old info...not longer relevant....as always...imo.
 
With rims being built cnc controlled.....I do not agree at all with the further out of balance without any weights. Years ago the difference between hub centric and lug centric was potentially large. IMO.....not anymore.
Old info...not longer relevant....as always...imo.
That's what the guys told me when I tried to get the wheels balanced, and I can see the wheels will be balanced pretty good. But how does that affect where the wheel mounts on the hub? Since it isn't centered off the hub, I'm just confused about the whole thing.
 
With rims being built cnc controlled.....I do not agree at all with the further out of balance without any weights. Years ago the difference between hub centric and lug centric was potentially large. IMO.....not anymore.
Old info...not longer relevant....as always...imo.
I had some cheap white spoke rims on an old Blazer. I fought a vibration problem for a long time. When I got into RVs, and learned about this issue, a lightbulb turned on for me. I went to my tire shop and told them to try using a lug plate. They protested stating that there was something else wrong with it. I told them to do it anyway....If it did not fix I would pay for the extra balance job. If it did fix it, I expected them to honor their warranty.
It fixed it, and they honored the warranty.

So I do not think the issue is a trailer rim specific problem, rather a cheap rim problem.
The RV industryis not known for spending more on parts than the bottom of the barrel ones.
CNC or not, one thing is certain. Trailer wheels do NOT use the pilot hole to center on the hub. they rely on the lugs for centering. The only way to be SURE the the balance is right is to use a lug plate....Now if you do not do this, you very well could end up further out of balance than having no wieghts at all..... but you will never know it....but your wallet will be needlesly lightened. But of course you will not know that either.:)
 
Greetings,
I am looking into replacing the rubber valve stem with a metal one since I have external TPMS. I had a metal one installed on the tire years ago, but when I replaced the tire at a Walmart store, they also replaced the valve stem too, I didn't notice it until it was too late to go back and recover it. Apparently the stem comes in different sizes. How would I know what size I need for my rim?
Tire size is 235/80R16
By a set of Colby metal valve stems and do it yourself.
 
That's what the guys told me when I tried to get the wheels balanced, and I can see the wheels will be balanced pretty good. But how does that affect where the wheel mounts on the hub? Since it isn't centered off the hub, I'm just confused about the whole thing.
Well huntindog is right that trailer wheels are lug centric....and the only way to be 100% sure is lug centric balancing.
But just about every car on the road with aftermarket wheels are lug centric as well. Very few people pay attention to bore diameter when buying aftermarket wheels. The Torque thrust wheels on my Challenger are lug centric because they didn't offer the rim in a bore that matched '70-'74 hubs. After talking with American Racing wheels they explained to me that there would be no difference with THEIR wheels between lug or hub balancing because of how they are made. CNC, datum point etc...I'm not a mech engineer but sounded reasonable to me. And I can say that the hub centric balance on those wheels provides a very smooth ride when attached to my car lug centric fashion.
 
Well huntindog is right that trailer wheels are lug centric....and the only way to be 100% sure is lug centric balancing.
But just about every car on the road with aftermarket wheels are lug centric as well. Very few people pay attention to bore diameter when buying aftermarket wheels. The Torque thrust wheels on my Challenger are lug centric because they didn't offer the rim in a bore that matched '70-'74 hubs. After talking with American Racing wheels they explained to me that there would be no difference with THEIR wheels between lug or hub balancing because of how they are made. CNC, datum point etc...I'm not a mech engineer but sounded reasonable to me. And I can say that the hub centric balance on those wheels provides a very smooth ride when attached to my car lug centric fashion.
Actually that makes sense since you could machine the lug pattern to be concentric to the hub diameter. Since most car/truck wheels are hub centric, you'd be okay if the lug pattern was concentric to the hub.

But the issue with the trailer wheels is the lugs on the trailer may not be concentric with the hub center, and if you mount the wheel assuming they would be, will there be issues?
 
The last few threads bring up the point that bead balancing or Centramatics are the way to go.

I have always had my trailer tires balanced, and now realize that the hub centric balancing probably did not work well.

My Imagine came with balancing beads in the tires.

Back to the OPs topic: The wheels on my Imagine have an indentation at the valve stem, preventing many metal stems from being used. My tire guys installed high pressure rubber valve stems that have a metal insert that runs the length of the stem. So far, so good with TST non-flow thru sensors.
 
The wheels on my Imagine have an indentation at the valve stem, preventing many metal stems from being used. My tire guys installed high pressure rubber valve stems that have a metal insert that runs the length of the stem. So far, so good with TST non-flow thru sensors.
Those would be TR-600HP stems. Good to 80psi. I used them for the last number of years with the same type of sensor. But you can see where the sensor was hitting the wheel from bending while going down the hwy...I surmise anyway.
 
Take it back to the shop that removed it and make them put a metal stem on there. They will have the correct size.
Yes! Metal is best. Last trip 2 valve stems blew. One in camp and second on road..tire shop put good ones in. Very happy.
2023 imagine 2600rb. I cover tires so not much uv. Just cheap.
 

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The last few threads bring up the point that bead balancing or Centramatics are the way to go.

I have always had my trailer tires balanced, and now realize that the hub centric balancing probably did not work well.

My Imagine came with balancing beads in the tires.

Back to the OPs topic: The wheels on my Imagine have an indentation at the valve stem, preventing many metal stems from being used. My tire guys installed high pressure rubber valve stems that have a metal insert that runs the length of the stem. So far, so good with TST non-flow thru sensors.
I also had problems, after looking/trying maybe a dozen stems, finding any all-metal valve stem that would mount properly to the inside portion of the wheel. The Colby's did the trick. Installed about a year ago and 5,000 miles.

I felt I really needed all metal with even the lighter TST TPMS.
 
The last Discount Tire location in my area that did lug centric tossed their lug centric balance equipment out. Because 2019 Ford F-350 tires were purchased at DT and now have no lug centric option, I allowed them to hub centric balance the truck and it feels fine. At the same time valve stems were replaced on TT so they also were not lug centric balanced again. I have no idea how well TT aluminum wheels are balanced now, and I do not know if I want to go to the trouble to determine this through measurements of some sort.

I looked at Centramatic balancers a few years ago but it appeared that it may be better if wheels are prebalanced to ensure that Centramatic can adjust under some more significant off-balance conditions.

If tire wear is OK on TT, as it sits with hub balancing, I am not going to complicate things, so will leave things as they are now.
 
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