Momentum 25g battery disconnect

AS Howard - @Hoppy Frood states should not hurt a thing. My last two trailers were always plugged in. Never had an issue. One suggestion though. You said you have a 50a plug in at home. I would get (maybe you did) a 30a cord and a 50a to 30a dogbone adapter and plug in that way while at home. The 30a cord is MUCH lighter, and unless you are going to run 2 AC's while at home, will work just fine.
 
AS Howard - @Hoppy Frood states should not hurt a thing. My last two trailers were always plugged in. Never had an issue. One suggestion though. You said you have a 50a plug in at home. I would get (maybe you did) a 30a cord and a 50a to 30a dogbone adapter and plug in that way while at home. The 30a cord is MUCH lighter, and unless you are going to run 2 AC's while at home, will work just fine.

Thank you! That’s good to know. I’ll likely just plug it in next time we go out there and leave it plugged in now that I know. My trailer is a 30amp actually, we installed the 50amp for someone staying in their 5th wheel on our property a while ago so I have a 30 amp cable for it with the 30 to 50 adapter.
 
I guess I could leave it plugged in, I just felt like maybe that would be too hard on the battery? Is it not? I just don’t want to ruin anything leaving it plugged in all the time. I mean since we’re in it nearly everyday right now I guess I could. Im so new to this idk what I’m doing lol

Unless dry camping or traveling our rig is plugged into our 50amp connection.

The converter does a good job of maintaining the batteries which are nearly 4 years old now and strong as ever. The batteries in my class A when I sold it were about 7 years old.

It you have the outlet, it is fine to plug it in.

Bill
 
Is there any particular reason for not wanting to stay plugged in to shore power? I keep mine plugged in while its at home all the time. I know others do as well.

I guess I could leave it plugged in, I just felt like maybe that would be too hard on the battery? Is it not? I just don’t want to ruin anything leaving it plugged in all the time. I mean since we’re in it nearly everyday right now I guess I could. Im so new to this idk what I’m doing lol

Generally speaking, when it's plugged into shore power, the converter will keep the battery charged, but not overcharged. When the battery is completely charged, the converter should go into Float mode which will not damage the battery.

I will second all these (our rig stays connected to shore power 24/7 except when it's rolling). One cautionary note: if you have a lead-acid ("flooded") battery, you need to check the electrolyte levels monthly and top it off with distilled water. Without proper maintenance, lead-acid batteries will run low on electrolyte and become damaged beyond recovery if charged dry.

Rob
 
Unless dry camping or traveling our rig is plugged into our 50amp connection.

The converter does a good job of maintaining the batteries which are nearly 4 years old now and strong as ever. The batteries in my class A when I sold it were about 7 years old.

It you have the outlet, it is fine to plug it in.

Bill

I will second all these (our rig stays connected to shore power 24/7 except when it's rolling). One cautionary note: if you have a lead-acid ("flooded") battery, you need to check the electrolyte levels monthly and top it off with distilled water. Without proper maintenance, lead-acid batteries will run low on electrolyte and become damaged beyond recovery if charged dry.

Rob

Thank you! I really appreciate it. I’m just going to leave it plugged in from here on out now that I’ve at least figured out how to essentially “dry camp” power wise. Just really wanted to get familiar with as much as I could before I get stuck in a situation where I need to dry camp unexpectedly.
 
AS Howard - @Hoppy Frood states should not hurt a thing. My last two trailers were always plugged in. Never had an issue. One suggestion though. You said you have a 50a plug in at home. I would get (maybe you did) a 30a cord and a 50a to 30a dogbone adapter and plug in that way while at home. The 30a cord is MUCH lighter, and unless you are going to run 2 AC's while at home, will work just fine.
This is how it SHOULD work. Unfortunantly the WFCO converters most RVs come with do not reliably change modes. The ones I have had (and I am NOT alone!)remain stuck at 13.6 volts. In warm climates this will toast the batteries pretty fast. In Phoenix AZ it is a problem. Other cooler locations may allow one to get away with it. The best solution is to get a different brand converter that will switch modes as it should.
 
If you run into any more electrical headaches I had to require my 25G so the inverter could run the damn outdoor kitchen fridge. Since then I’ve pretty much gutted it, installed a full Victron Multiplus setup and now all the outlets run off a much larger inverter.

The stock 1000W inverter is fine for basic things but was not enough to properly dry camp for us.

If you ever find the TV and other outlets don’t work in the main living area, check the GFCI breaker *behind* the TV… i saw the red light back there and assumed it was the antenna booster… doh…. It was a GFCI. Lesson learned.

Be sure to seal that outdoor kitchen door especially the screws at the bottom (if they are not already broken off inside), it’s infamous for water intrusion in the bedroom.


Cheers
Tim
 
Here my one of my last “stock” outlet maps, I need to double check to see if updated anything on paper but you can see the outdoor kitchen and bedroom to outlet were not on Inverter yet the whole [expletive removed] kitchen was lol. Weird.

6B515962-B795-48C0-8410-6F8411905979.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If you run into any more electrical headaches I had to require my 25G so the inverter could run the damn outdoor kitchen fridge. Since then I’ve pretty much gutted it, installed a full Victron Multiplus setup and now all the outlets run off a much larger inverter.

The stock 1000W inverter is fine for basic things but was not enough to properly dry camp for us.

If you ever find the TV and other outlets don’t work in the main living area, check the GFCI breaker *behind* the TV… i saw the red light back there and assumed it was the antenna booster… doh…. It was a GFCI. Lesson learned.

Be sure to seal that outdoor kitchen door especially the screws at the bottom (if they are not already broken off inside), it’s infamous for water intrusion in the bedroom.


Cheers
Tim

Finally someone with the same camper! I was aware the outdoor fridge would only run while hooked up to shore power which I thought was weird but whatever. Makes it kind of pointless lol. But thank you for the tip on the GFCI behind the tv! I don’t see us doing much dry camping to be honest. If we do it would be a weekend trip to a friends ranch. I appreciate your input!
 
This is how it SHOULD work. Unfortunantly the WFCO converters most RVs come with do not reliably change modes. The ones I have had (and I am NOT alone!)remain stuck at 13.6 volts. In warm climates this will toast the batteries pretty fast. In Phoenix AZ it is a problem. Other cooler locations may allow one to get away with it. The best solution is to get a different brand converter that will switch modes as it should.

Thank you! Fortunately where I live it’s about 65 year round. Very rarely it reaches above 80 and it’s only a couple weeks out of the year. So I should be good there as far as high heat exposure.
 

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