Move Batteries Under Bed in Transcend

jasonf

Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2022
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20
Location
Olympic Peninsula
2020 Transcend 247 BH -- I want to upgrade to lithium ion batteries and move them under the front queen bed. For those that have done this (or even moved the batteries into the pass through storage), how did you run the wires?

My current plan is to run the wires in flexible conduit along the frame, up through the floor towards the side (exactly how the water hose floor hole is set up), and into the under bed area. However, I'm nervous about drilling holes, and I don't want to remove any of the underbelly material.
 
You are gonna move the batteries right under the bed where you sleep? Holy cow. You sure you want to do that?
 
2020 Transcend 247 BH -- I want to upgrade to lithium ion batteries and move them under the front queen bed. For those that have done this (or even moved the batteries into the pass through storage), how did you run the wires?

My current plan is to run the wires in flexible conduit along the frame, up through the floor towards the side (exactly how the water hose floor hole is set up), and into the under bed area. However, I'm nervous about drilling holes, and I don't want to remove any of the underbelly material.

With LiFePo4 batteries there are no emissions so under the bed is not a safety issue. The batteries will be less exposed there, certainly safer than in the front compartment from a theft perspective. Also, if you camp in cold weather, the batteries will stay warmer. Your idea to follow existing paths for the cables sounds prudent, before drilling make sure you won't nick any of the existing infrastructure.
 
With LiFePo4 batteries there are no emissions so under the bed is not a safety issue.

Interesting. An explosion from thermal runaway, which in turn, will lead to the development of the highly toxic gas, hydrogen fluoride, isn't a concern? Granted, the factory position of batteries and propane tanks isn't just a long way from the bed in a forward bedroom floorplan, but having a couple potential bombes literally right under my pillow would scare me a tad.
 
Interesting. An explosion from thermal runaway, which in turn, will lead to the development of the highly toxic gas, hydrogen fluoride, isn't a concern? Granted, the factory position of batteries and propane tanks isn't just a long way from the bed in a forward bedroom floorplan, but having a couple potential bombes literally right under my pillow would scare me a tad.

You may be thinking of older lithium-ion batteries. The newer LiFePo4 batteries are not subject to thermal runaway and even if exposed to flame will not catch on fire. See https://battlebornbatteries.com/are-lithium-batteries-safe/
 
Interesting. An explosion from thermal runaway, which in turn, will lead to the development of the highly toxic gas, hydrogen fluoride, isn't a concern? Granted, the factory position of batteries and propane tanks isn't just a long way from the bed in a forward bedroom floorplan, but having a couple potential bombes literally right under my pillow would scare me a tad.

Very, very highly unlikely that there would be such an occurrence with the LiFePo4 chemistry.

Link discussing that here...

https://diysolarforum.com/threads/can-lifepo4-batteries-combust-in-thermal-runaway-event.999/
 
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Interesting. Thanks for the link.

Glad to help. With lithium batteries the risk/reward is all about the chemistry. We ran an electric powered dragster that was powered by Lithium Cobalt Oxide (LiCoO2) cells. They are very power dense and have a massively high discharge rate. Perfect for that application but highly sensitive to being over charged, over discharged etc... so one had to be very careful to keep them within their narrow safety band or invite trouble. The LiFeP04 batteries on the other hand are about as safe as a battery can be.
 
Agreed on the battery chemistry. Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) is absolutely the only type of battery I would put anywhere inside the RV. Other types of lithium chemistry is prone to runaways/explosions/etc and lead-acid batteries generate deadly gasses while charging.

I want to keep the batteries warm and also don't want to worry about protecting them in the pass-through storage to prevent the stuff in there from slamming into them while driving.
 
Agreed on the battery chemistry. Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) is absolutely the only type of battery I would put anywhere inside the RV. Other types of lithium chemistry is prone to runaways/explosions/etc and lead-acid batteries generate deadly gasses while charging.

I want to keep the batteries warm and also don't want to worry about protecting them in the pass-through storage to prevent the stuff in there from slamming into them while driving.

Agree completely on all points. We are mounting our 300ah LiFePO4 battery under the bed in our Momentum 31G also.
 
For those that have moved batteries inside their RV, how did you figure out where to run the wires?
As other's have mentioned already, LifePo4 is perfectly safe inside. In our 22mle, we're lucky as we have space right behind the converter/charger which is below the pantry and dinette bench. This where my batteries will be going so I don't have to move or greatly modify the original main cables. Right now, it sounds like your plan is simply a drop replacement to the LA. Are you planning on adding an inverter in the future? The reason that I'm asking is because depending on the size of that inverter, the gage size of wires running between the batt and inverter will have to be bigger as the distance increases. Would you have room under the counter beside the stove instead since that would right behind your converter?

Sent from my SM-P610 using Tapatalk
 
As other's have mentioned already, LifePo4 is perfectly safe inside. In our 22mle, we're lucky as we have space right behind the converter/charger which is below the pantry and dinette bench. This where my batteries will be going so I don't have to move or greatly modify the original main cables. Right now, it sounds like your plan is simply a drop replacement to the LA. Are you planning on adding an inverter in the future? The reason that I'm asking is because depending on the size of that inverter, the gage size of wires running between the batt and inverter will have to be bigger as the distance increases. Would you have room under the counter beside the stove instead since that would right behind your converter?

Sent from my SM-P610 using Tapatalk

I may add an inverter. My thought was that could go under the bed as well or possibly in the pass-through storage just on the other side of the battery specifically because of the issue you noted on cable length. I don't think I would wire the inverter to my AC electrical but rather would add a single outlet and run an extension cord to the TV (which is the only thing I would really run off the inverter). We are generally against TV while dry camping since the point is to disconnect, but we are planning a longer road trip that will have some dry-camping and will need a screen for that.

That's a great idea to put the batteries closer to the convertor (which I really need to upgrade anyways). I'm going to check tonight and see. I would still have the same issue though with running the cables up to the front where the main circuit breaker and ground connections are located. I don't really want to drop the coroplast. If there is a big enough existing hole somewhere in the floor, I will put my fiber optic camera down into it and see what is going on.
 
If you are getting Battleborns anyway, have you considered getting the heated versions to avoid the cost and hassle of moving them into heated space? The heating is $100/ea extra. If you are getting batteries without a heating option, then it probably makes sense.
 
If you are getting Battleborns anyway, have you considered getting the heated versions to avoid the cost and hassle of moving them into heated space? The heating is $100/ea extra. If you are getting batteries without a heating option, then it probably makes sense.

Thanks for the suggestion. I have looked into the heating pad option. Will Prowse has an excellent YouTube channel where he does very thorough analysis of different batteries. Thus, I am not getting BattleBorns and the additional heating pads are not actually that useful (Will explains why).

That being said, the main reason for moving them inside is that I simply don't have enough room on the A-frame for the size of batteries that I want.
 
Thanks for the suggestion. I have looked into the heating pad option. Will Prowse has an excellent YouTube channel where he does very thorough analysis of different batteries. Thus, I am not getting BattleBorns and the additional heating pads are not actually that useful (Will explains why).

That being said, the main reason for moving them inside is that I simply don't have enough room on the A-frame for the size of batteries that I want.

Good Point. I'm relatively new at this and I keep forgetting that many of the GD models are trailers, not 5ers. I wouldn't want to leave them out on the A-frame either, even if I had the room.
 
I may add an inverter. My thought was that could go under the bed as well or possibly in the pass-through storage just on the other side of the battery specifically because of the issue you noted on cable length. I don't think I would wire the inverter to my AC electrical but rather would add a single outlet and run an extension cord to the TV (which is the only thing I would really run off the inverter). We are generally against TV while dry camping since the point is to disconnect, but we are planning a longer road trip that will have some dry-camping and will need a screen for that.

That's a great idea to put the batteries closer to the convertor (which I really need to upgrade anyways). I'm going to check tonight and see. I would still have the same issue though with running the cables up to the front where the main circuit breaker and ground connections are located. I don't really want to drop the coroplast. If there is a big enough existing hole somewhere in the floor, I will put my fiber optic camera down into it and see what is going on.

Actually, if your able to put the battery right behind the converter then you won't have to bother running cables. Simply disconnect the original battery cables from behind the converter and connect your battery in its place. Leave the original cables in place for the next owner.

Sent from my SM-P610 using Tapatalk
 
Actually, if your able to put the battery right behind the converter then you won't have to bother running cables. Simply disconnect the original battery cables from behind the converter and connect your battery in its place. Leave the original cables in place for the next owner.

Sent from my SM-P610 using Tapatalk


Hmm, this is an interesting idea. The power jack and emergency breakaway switch both run directly off the batteries. They do not run through the 12 volt DC fuse board. There is also a main circuit breaker attached to the A-frame that protects the wiring leading to the convertor. Plus, the trailer frame has to be grounded to the negative terminal of the battery.

That being said, it may be possible to connect the wiring at the convertor directly to the battery and then add another circuit breaker between the battery and convertor. I will have to see if there is enough slack in the existing cables. I don't want to have to extend the existing cables since making a solid, long-lasting connection in a trailer that vibrates is difficult.
 
Interesting. Thanks for the link.

Different Lithium Ion battery chemistries is like different hydrocarbon fuels. You can't just lump all lithium battery chemistries together and say they behave the same, just like you can't lump diesel, gasoline, kerosene, etc, as all behaving the same. While you could throw a lit match into a puddle of diesel and watch the match get extinguished, you wouldn't want to do the same thing with a puddle of gasoline, at least not from anything less than a very safe distance. :D

LiFePo batteries, if you wanted to use this analogy, is more like diesel or fuel oil: hard to get on fire by itself, and if you do, it will burn but not explode. Whereas some of the lithium batteries used in cell phones, drones, and EV cars, etc, will use a lighter weight and more energy dense chemistry, and those are more prone to thermal runaway. Kinda like gasoline, methanol, and other racing fuels. Very reactive and potentially more dangerous to handle.
I know, it's not a direct correlation, but I think it can help some people grasp the differences in lithium battery chemistries.
 

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