My Solitude Suspension Rebuild

[traveldawg]

I'll think about the X-factors.
I have not looked at the SRE-4000, know nothing about it. The first question that came to my mind is, why would I want extra horizontal movement? Maybe extra vertical movement, but then again I know nothing about the 4000's.

I had installed the CRE-3000 on our Imagine and they still looked great when we traded it in for the Solitude, and the ride and towing was greatly improved. Now granted our Imagine was a lot smaller and lighter and had rigid equalizers to start with before I changed to the CRE-3000, that was a big change and difference. The EquaFlex on our Solitude is basically the same as the CRE-3000. I just think the MORryde product is better than the Lippert.

I'll look into the SRE-4000's to see what it offers over the CRE's. Just a quick google search on the SRE-4000 mentions it comes with the X-factor, and that is what you recommend looking into so I'm guessing that's the major difference using the SRE's instead of the CRE's?

I screwed up (again - but the last one was over an hour ago, so today is a good day....)..... The SRE4000 allows 4" of vertical travel vs. the 3" of travel with the CRE3000. The SRE4000 also uses a different method of rubber bushing to absorb some shock and movement and it is warranted for 3 years vs. the 2 years the CRE3000 offers.

Here is some information on the SRE4000.

Which ever way you go I'll guess the ride will improve.

 

[toolman.dustin]

This post may get lengthy ......

If you haven't placed orders for parts yet you might contact Marc, at OEM Parts Store. He is quite knowledgeable with suspension systems and has been extremely helpful to me and has great prices. Also, when I can't find a Dexter or Lippert part number on his website, I email him and he sends me a link to that particular part on his website. Give it a try. I currently have leaf springs on order and I've ordered axle assemblies with springs in the past.

https://www.theoempartsstore.com/help.php?section=contactus&mode=update

Good luck,
Dustin

 

[roegs01]

Thanks for the info - very helpful. Sorry, I don’t mean to go off-topic but I’m curious if you considered the Road Master slipper system (or why not?). Kinda comparable cost-wise and relatively simple install. A friend with a 310 just had that done and he really likes it so far.

For me, the decision was pretty easy. Slippers do not distribute load between the axles as effectively and have less articulation and dampening limited to shocks. It's nothing new or my opinion, but typical cons for them that the various makers point out when doing pros/cons of their various suspensions. I have also personally had slippers on campers and various trailers I've owned and am not a fan, especially when they've worn in.
Don't get me wrong, plenty of cons with double-eye too. However, the double-eye at least more opportunity to improve it and parts available anywhere in N.America.

I'm a big fan of Roadmaster products. I started with their shock kit last year, and this year installed their slipper spring system. As geotex1 mentioned, they don't distribute load between axels as much, but I see that as an advantage. There are less moving parts and less maintenance items such as bushings. To me it's closer to an independent suspension as it allows the axels to operate independently of each other. I've put just over 2k miles on the slippers now, and the only thing I don't like is the extra noise of the spring as it rides on the perch. Kind of sounds like my old weight distribution system when we towed travel trailers. That said, the noise is less as the system wears in. My 2930 rides slightly nose high (always has) and I was a little concerned about the rear tires running hotter after moving away from the OEM equalizer based suspension. So far I've seen no difference in tire temperatures. I'm not saying that slippers are the ultimate solution, but it brings a good alternative to the table for those who are rebuilding their suspensions. In the case of Roadmaster, the slippers have the upper shock mounts built into their desgn.

 

[uwskier]

A friend of mine just put the Roadmaster slippers on his Reflection 28BH and has nothing but great things to say about the improvement. They go coast to coast annually.

On the equalizers, any thoughts on the Lippert RoadArmor? I just installed those on my TT and had the first tow with it last week. Nice improvement over the stock solid equalizer, and I liked that they seem more durable and beefier than the CRE3000 with damping in two directions.

 

[Steven@147]

A friend of mine just put the Roadmaster slippers on his Reflection 28BH and has nothing but great things to say about the improvement. They go coast to coast annually.

On the equalizers, any thoughts on the Lippert RoadArmor? I just installed those on my TT and had the first tow with it last week. Nice improvement over the stock solid equalizer, and I liked that they seem more durable and beefier than the CRE3000 with damping in two directions.

No I didn't consider Lippert, but then again anything is better than solid equalizers. Had that on our Imagine then installed MORryde CRE's and loved them. Now with our Solitude the Equaflex equalizer did it's job since the rig was new but now they seem a little wore out. I like MORryde, I'm going with them. I am not going to go crazy with modifications, the rig handles nice and smooth and so far has been great, so I'll just change out the Equaflex for MORryde and let her ride.

 

[Hoopy Frood]

The Lippert EquaFlex was what I replaced when I redid the springs on my Momentum. I was less than impressed with their condition, as the rubber was in very poor shape with a couple of small chunks falling out when they were removed. In my mind the Dexter EZ-Flex is a superior product. But JMO of course.

 

[uwskier]

The Lippert EquaFlex was what I replaced when I redid the springs on my Momentum. I was less than impressed with their condition, as the rubber was in very poor shape with a couple of small chunks falling out when they were removed. In my mind the Dexter EZ-Flex is a superior product. But JMO of course.

https://www.amazon.com/Lippert-Armor-Shock-Absorbing-Equalizer/dp/B08XDNHVNR?th=1

Yeah, the Equa-flex look a bit simple next to the Road Armors. These things are solid units.

 

[Steven@147]

So I got the MORryde CRE 3000 and shackle kit and bushings ordered, be here in a few days. I decided against the SRE4000. As I said in the above post the rig has handle great for the last three years all over America so I see no reason to change from the existing suspension type or install mods for the sake of installing mods, or if it really doesn't need it or for only one more year of product warranty. Only exception is swapping out the EquaFlex for MORryde. I like MORryde and I'm sticking with them.

Now as for the leaf springs, I took another look at them this morning and I've decided they are ok and I am going to run them for another year. See pics. I'll order a spare spring and have it on hand just in case, but I'll run on the stock 3500# springs for another year.

Besides when I was looking at springs, I thought if I was going to change all four I would go up to 4000# springs of the same measurements. Well it seems they are not readily available except from a few places and a lot of the aftermarket web sites like Etrailer go back to those same few suppliers like Dexter and Lippert. Etrailer is temporally back ordered for 4000# springs 26" loaded 24 7/8 unloaded, 1.75 width 7 leaf. Lippert was going to get back to me on availability but haven't yet. Seems like the 4000# springs are kind of an odd ball double eye spring. Also a lot of sites want you to go to slipper springs to get 4000# springs, well I'm not going to do that. But lots of places have the 3500# springs.

So new bushings bolts nuts shackles and MORryde equalizer and a single spare 3500# spring and spare U bolts just in case it is.

 

[Hoopy Frood]

When I tried to replace my 3,500 lb. springs with 4,000 lb. springs, I ran into the same shortages. I finally ended up getting them from Lippert, but it was close to when we were going to leave and I was sweating bullets they would arrive on time. I was thinking the shortage had eased and they were easier to get. But yeah, it seemed many of the 4,000 lb. springs were slipper springs, with the double eye in the minority.

Those springs don't look too bad, maybe one is sketchy, but overall not needing immediate replacement.

 

[geotex1]

Gotta watch etrailer and other online suppliers or you will end up with a spring pack stamped "Made in China." The like to confuse with having Dexter P/Ns but the fine print is "compatible" or such. There are some good springs that come from some makers overseas, but none should come at a Dexter price! Made in China sells at about 1/3 the price.

 

[powerscol]

So I got the MORryde CRE 3000 and shackle kit and bushings ordered, be here in a few days. I decided against the SRE4000. As I said in the above post the rig has handle great for the last three years all over America so I see no reason to change from the existing suspension type or install mods for the sake of installing mods, or if it really doesn't need it or for only one more year of product warranty. Only exception is swapping out the EquaFlex for MORryde. I like MORryde and I'm sticking with them.

Now as for the leaf springs, I took another look at them this morning and I've decided they are ok and I am going to run them for another year. See pics. I'll order a spare spring and have it on hand just in case, but I'll run on the stock 3500# springs for another year.

Besides when I was looking at springs, I thought if I was going to change all four I would go up to 4000# springs of the same measurements. Well it seems they are not readily available except from a few places and a lot of the aftermarket web sites like Etrailer go back to those same few suppliers like Dexter and Lippert. Etrailer is temporally back ordered for 4000# springs 26" loaded 24 7/8 unloaded, 1.75 width 7 leaf. Lippert was going to get back to me on availability but haven't yet. Seems like the 4000# springs are kind of an odd ball double eye spring. Also a lot of sites want you to go to slipper springs to get 4000# springs, well I'm not going to do that. But lots of places have the 3500# springs.

So new bushings bolts nuts shackles and MORryde equalizer and a single spare 3500# spring and spare U bolts just in case it is.

Check with Iron Bear out of Denver CO on the springs https://ironbeartrailer.com Ask for Brad

 

[Steven@147]

When I tried to replace my 3,500 lb. springs with 4,000 lb. springs, I ran into the same shortages. I finally ended up getting them from Lippert, but it was close to when we were going to leave and I was sweating bullets they would arrive on time. I was thinking the shortage had eased and they were easier to get. But yeah, it seemed many of the 4,000 lb. springs were slipper springs, with the double eye in the minority.

Those springs don't look too bad, maybe one is sketchy, but overall not needing immediate replacement.

Lippert got back to me and said 4 springs 4000# would ship in 5 days then @ 5 days for delivery. So I guess they have access to them from somewhere.
[MENTION=26275]geotex1[/MENTION] that's really the kicker isn't it? What kind of springs is a person getting from wherever you ordered them from. I suppose you could think if you pay a higher price for them, they are better quality? Nah, you and I know price doesn't always equate to quality. But really I have no idea where the stock springs came from on the rig now, Lippert sure because they built the RV chassis, but where did they get them from?

Well you pay your money, you take your chance?

 

[powerscol]

Lippert got back to me and said 4 springs 4000# would ship in 5 days then @ 5 days for delivery. So I guess they have access to them from somewhere.

[MENTION=26275]geotex1[/MENTION] that's really the kicker isn't it? What kind of springs is a person getting from wherever you ordered them from. I suppose you could think if you pay a higher price for them, they are better quality? Nah, you and I know price doesn't always equate to quality. But really I have no idea where the stock springs came from on the rig now, Lippert sure because they built the RV chassis, but where did they get them from?

Well you pay your money, you take your chance?

All of Lippert springs are China. Dexter is making more and more in Texas. Iron Bear is a Dexter dealer and has excellent pricing - might be worth a call.

 

[geotex1]

[MENTION=8842]Steven@147[/MENTION] what [MENTION=14348]powerscol[/MENTION] said! Aside, the custom packs I had made were built in the USA with steel produced in Canadian mills.

 

[toolman.dustin]

FYI, short video on how the spring eye hole is formed.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/nYqQecy45WQ

Dustin

 

[dryfly]

FYI, short video on how the spring eye hole is formed.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/nYqQecy45WQ

Dustin

That's cool. Looks like it would be so easy to put a steel bushing in the bend to accommodate the bronze bushings. that way you are guaranteed a good fit for the bronze bushing.

 

[Steven@147]

Well yesterday I got the right side suspension rebuilt. I last replaced the bronze bushings and wet bolts 3 years and 17000 miles ago and I have greased the wet bolts every quarter for those 3 years and miles.

I will probably get to detailed on how I did this work for a lot of you that have done this before but for owners that haven't it may be of some use. To start the process the rig was already leveled using the ground control 3.0 electric leveling system.
I went to manual mode on the electric leveling controller, I raised the right landing gear a few inches, then raised the right rear leveling jack a few inches alternating back and forth until Wife Tami told me the right wheels were just off the ground. Then I placed a 2x12x12 inches under the mid leveling jack to take up the gap caused by raising the front and rear leveling jacks.

I had bought a 2x12x12 for $17 at a local lumber yard and cut 12 inch pieces and used 5 stacked and screwed together then placed my 6 ton jack stand on the stack and under the rear frame. Then used another 6 ton jack stand and stacked 2x12s under the frame forward of the tires.
Next I placed two 3 ton hydraulic jack/stand under the U-Bolts of each axle and raised them just a little to take the weight off the leaf springs. I cut a 2x4 to length and placed it between the axles and used a ratchet strap around the axles so they wouldn't move when I took everything apart.

Now I have the rig right side raised blocked and supported, its solid. I started with replacing the rear axle end leaf spring bushing at the frame hanger. Loosened the wet bolt nut to the end of the bolt threads and hit with a hammer to drive the knurled head out of the hanger, then removed the wet bolt. Let the rear axle down just enough for the rear leaf spring eye to clear the frame hanger. There was just a sliver of a bronze bushing left, not even enough to show you holy cow!

The new bronze pre-greased bushing is a little loose in the eye but used a large "C" clamp to press the bushing in the eye. Raised the axle up and the eye was lined up with the frame hanger hole. I had previously marked each of the wet bolt heads where the grease hole is so I could clock them to the 3 or 9 o'clock position when inserting. Put the new pre-greased wet bolt in, used my "C" clamp to draw the frame hanger together, to make sure the wet bolt end shoulder protrudes through the hanger.
Used an impact deep socket on the bolt head over the zerk fitting and drove the wet bolt knurled end into the hanger. Snugged up the new nut but didn't torque it yet. Time to move on to the front axle end eye and frame hanger..............

 

[Steven@147]

For the front axle forward end eye bushing replacement, I followed the same procedure. The front axle forward spring eye bushing was worn down a little but still in good shape, drove out the old bushing, inserted the new and used the "C" clamp to press it into the eye. Raised the axle, holes lined up, inserted the wet bolt, clamped the hanger together, clocked the grease hole, drove in the bolt knurled head, and put the nut on. So far so good doing the job.

Now on to replacing the equalizer..... Raised the axle jacks to take the weight off the equalizer, unbolted the shackles, drove out the equalizer center bolt and removed. See above picture. The leaf spring bronze bushings at the equalizer in the spring eyes were still good, a little worn but in fine shape. Drove out the old spring eye bushings, pressed in the new. Placed the new MORryde equalizer in, new wet bolt inserted, clocked, and drove home bolt head to hanger and nutted.

Assembled the new MORryde HD shackles to the springs and equalizer, with a little fine tuning of the axle jacks, everything with the equalizer went back together easily. So far only one bad bushing.

The right side Equalflex was pretty worn and I think it was time to replace, its been installed since the rig was new in 2019. You can see the wet bolt that was in the rear axle spring end frame hanger.

 

[Steven@147]

Now to repack the wheel bearings...... Remove the front axle drum, brakes look fine, removed the bearings, inspected, cleaned, repacked, reassembled with new grease seal and reinstalled.

Remove rear axle drum, forward brake shoe pad fell out on the ground....... OOPS! I just happen to have a complete right side Dexter spare brake assembly. cut the brake wires, removed 5 nuts and removed old brake assembly. New brake assembly installed, torque the new 5 nuts. Drum inspected ok, bearings cleaned, inspected, repacked and reinstalled with new grease seal to the hub, connected the brake wires and installed the tires, time to check brake function.

Backed truck up to the RV and connected the RV to the truck. I spun the tires, Wife Tami in the truck hit the brakes and each tire stopped, satisfied the brakes work fine and are adjusted correctly, time to set the RV back level.

Removed, jacks, stands and supports. On the ground control 3.0 controller, manual mode, lowered the right side of the rig landing gear and rear leveling jack, watching the controller display until "tilt' and "angle" are near .1 or .2. Then auto raised rear leveling jacks, then selected auto level. Rig auto leveled fine. Greased wet bolts again, torqued suspension wet bolt nuts to 40 ftlbs and torqued wheel lugs to 110 ftlbs. Right side job done in a little over 5 hours. Suspension rebuilt, wheel bearings repacked and one brake assembly replaced. One bad bushing so far after 3 years 17000 miles of use.

 

[Steven@147]

To close out my thread, I got the left side bushings and equalizer replaced and the wheel bearings repacked. The left side electric drum brakes were ok. The bronze bushing in the left side rear axle spring eye to frame hanger was worn pretty good but was in better shape than the right side in the same location. All other bronze bushings on the left side were ok after 3 years and quarterly greasing.

For the left side work, I had one problem with replacing the bronze bushing in the front axle leaf spring eye at the equalizer. After removing the old bushing, I destroyed 2 new bushings trying to press a new one in the spring eye, it was really, really tight. I could see nothing in the spring eye that would cause the bushing to bind up but I used a rat tail file to clean out the spring eye, then the new bushing pressed in ok.

So after doing this work and seeing the condition of the old bronze bushings after 3 years and @ 17,000 miles with quarterly greasing, I have concluded, at least for our rig, bronze bushings will last at least 2.5 - 3 years, 17,000 - 20,000 miles.

I had to take some Tylenol extra strength after getting the work done, but we're good to go for another year on the wheel bearings and another 3 years depending on the mileage on the suspension bushings.