My Solitude Suspension Rebuild

I was looking at the spring pack and it only has 4 leafs, so I guess it is a 3000lb spring? I am in contact with Dexter getting info about the axle and springs. I don’t see any grease zerks under the trim caps.I guess that is a prelubed bearings? also have a 6 lug wheel. To me it looks like they replaced the
axle/ brakes as a complete assembly onto the old springs and then sold it shortly afterwards.
Thanks for the replies

To see what is going on with the axle, remove the tire, there should be a steel cap with a rubber plug in it and under the rubber plug should be a grease fitting. If you decide to grease the bearings with the zerk fitting make sure that you spin the wheel while adding grease so that you don't blow out the rear seal. Just pump your grease gun and rotate the wheel and continue. I fill my hub with grease until it starts to come out from the outer bearing and then I stop. Next time you grease, it shouldn't take much grease, but the first time you fill the hub it will take quite a bit. Before you add grease make sure the bearings are snug. You shouldn't have any more than about 1/16 inch of play with drum brakes and zero play with disc brakes. In order to adjust the bearings the steel cap has to come off to access the adjuster nut. 4 leaf springs could be either 2600 or 3000, look at the sticker on the front of your trailer and it should give you axle capacities as manufactured, more than likely your springs are oem.
 
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I like the design of the Dexter EZ flex, but they are shorter in height by about an inch than the Lippert equalizer and they make them in two different weight capacities, one is 4-6k and the other is 6-8k and the heavier ones are red in color I believe. I had the gold ones on my 2001 Holiday Rambler Alumascape and they were fine.
Yeah, I like the EZ-Flex because they do allow a certain amount, not a lot granted, of independent movement of the suspension, as opposed to the one piece equalizers. I've done the EZ-Flex on two trailers and they were easily the best bang for the buck. I get no hit from the trailer over expansion joints, or bridge approaches. Got to love that.
 
Yeah, I like the EZ-Flex because they do allow a certain amount, not a lot granted, of independent movement of the suspension, as opposed to the one piece equalizers. I've done the EZ-Flex on two trailers and they were easily the best bang for the buck. I get no hit from the trailer over expansion joints, or bridge approaches. Got to love that.

I think they will probably outlast the others too. I will probably replace the lipperts with the Dexters when the lipperts give up. I like the way the Dexters can also be greased.
 
To see what is going on with the axle, remove the tire, there should be a steel cap with a rubber plug in it and under the rubber plug should be a grease fitting. If you decide to grease the bearings with the zerk fitting make sure that you spin the wheel while adding grease so that you don't blow out the rear seal. Just pump your grease gun and rotate the wheel and continue. I fill my hub with grease until it starts to come out from the outer bearing and then I stop. Next time you grease, it shouldn't take much grease, but the first time you fill the hub it will take quite a bit. Before you add grease make sure the bearings are snug. You shouldn't have any more than about 1/16 inch of play with drum brakes and zero play with disc brakes. In order to adjust the bearings the steel cap has to come off to access the adjuster nut. 4 leaf springs could be either 2600 or 3000, look at the sticker on the front of your trailer and it should give you axle capacities as manufactured, more than likely your springs are oem.
After some digging I find the spec sheet from GD it looks like 5200lb axles were original (replaced with 7000lb) so would that mean I have 2500lb springs x 2 equals 5200 lb Per axle ?
I did manage to get the shackle off one of the axles and it had a plastic bushing inside.
I pumped some grease into all of them that would take any and put it back together. I recall getting one wheel off to look at he hub and it had a metal cap on it no grease fitting behind it so I think these axles are the (never lube) ?
So sounds like a project this spring when I return from our trip we are in Yuma currently going back to Oregon in April 15th. for some appointments.
More to come on this trailer for me. I also need to get the dimensions for the shackle Hanger supports that are being welded on to help keep them from cracking/failing. Think I will have that done at the same time. IMG_3755.jpg
Thanks for the responses.
 
Wonder why they changed axles but not the springs.

No telling why people do what they do….. the rear axle hanger was rewelded at some point so I figured they had some damage and had to replace as cheap as possible the drums look like OEM also,I for one am happy they at least replaced everything else.
the brakes, axles at least are new. 2021 build date, we bought in march 2023.
I plan to replace the springs,shackles,and new bushings and get the hangers reinforced, then I would feel pretty confident about the suspension issues. I’m trying to get a budget together for all these items
Do you have a supplier you used for your parts? I will probably have to go thru a Dexter dealer or
E trailer. I didn’t see springs listed on the Dexter website, thanks for responding. Sportz
 
I ordered my 4,000 lb. rated springs from Lippert, they were the best price, and a reasonable shipping time frame. They weren't too bad in price, about $110 each. But that also was about a year and a half ago. But at that time, E-trailer was much higher, and couldn't get them to me in the time frame I needed.
 
After some digging I find the spec sheet from GD it looks like 5200lb axles were original (replaced with 7000lb) so would that mean I have 2500lb springs x 2 equals 5200 lb Per axle ?
I did manage to get the shackle off one of the axles and it had a plastic bushing inside.
I pumped some grease into all of them that would take any and put it back together. I recall getting one wheel off to look at he hub and it had a metal cap on it no grease fitting behind it so I think these axles are the (never lube) ?
So sounds like a project this spring when I return from our trip we are in Yuma currently going back to Oregon in April 15th. for some appointments.
More to come on this trailer for me. I also need to get the dimensions for the shackle Hanger supports that are being welded on to help keep them from cracking/failing. Think I will have that done at the same time.View attachment 49651
Thanks for the responses.

One addition you might consider is the X-Factor cross members https://www.morryde.com/products/x-factor-crossmember/ They seem to help a lot on my 5th wheel.
 
One addition you might consider is the X-Factor cross members https://www.morryde.com/products/x-factor-crossmember/ They seem to help a lot on my 5th wheel.

It looks like the crossmember only installs at the center equalizer, not sure these install at the other spring hanger locations? Would this crossmember eliminate the need for hanger reinforcements at the equalizer frame connection? It looks to be an easy add on no welding needed. Thanks
 
I can tell your axles have been replaced. Six Robblees is a distributor that I have bought axles from in the past, they have warehouses scattered around. I have purchased stuff from them in Billings, MT. So your axle tube is a 7k tube. Go back to where I told you that parts will interchange. Your 6 lug hubs are more than likely still 5200 lb rated(for the pair) or maybe 6000 lbs, probably what came on your trailer from the factory,but you should be fine. What you did get with a 7k axle is a .250 wall thickness tube, which is good. The axles really aren't that big of an issue. I see more axles that were kicked out the door that weren't assembled correctly than bent axles. Sure you can bend one hitting something very hard, but you will probably bend the .250 wall the same as the .180 wall in that case. Back to your questions, I would take your trailer and load it up how you would travel and scale the axles to determine how much spring you need. Weigh with a full water tank. I typically have about 6k on each axle when traveling which doesn't leave a lot of room with 3500 lb springs. I do like the added strength of the 4000 lb spring due to the second leaf being almost as long as the main leaf. It will ride rougher, but it should be more durable. 3500 lb springs might be enough for your appication and they are about 1/3 the cost of the 4000 lb springs, so I would probably recommend going that way. If you look at my thread I posted today on 2018 Solitude suspension upgrades you will see how I reinforced my spring hangers which also reinforces the frame web from flexing cracks in my opinion. It took 20 feet of 2x2x1/4 angle iron to make three braces and cost about 100.00 Make sure you tires have enough capacity to handle your axle weights. I see that you have 235/80R16 tires, they should be good to about 3500 lbs ea. @80psi
I found the spec sheet for the trailer showing the axle ratings it looks like the original axles for this
303 rls was 5200 lb axles, so I assume the springs are 2500lb?
So an upgrade for this would be 3000/3500 lb springs I weighed the trailer when I brought it home with it basically dry weight, connected to my truck. I haven’t weighed it fully loaded yet I will have to get to a Cat scale shortly and see, im sure I’m near max weight which is about 12000lbs.
IMG_3755.jpg
Thanks
 
I found the spec sheet for the trailer showing the axle ratings it looks like the original axles for this
303 rls was 5200 lb axles, so I assume the springs are 2500lb?
So an upgrade for this would be 3000/3500 lb springs I weighed the trailer when I brought it home with it basically dry weight, connected to my truck. I haven’t weighed it fully loaded yet I will have to get to a Cat scale shortly and see, im sure I’m near max weight which is about 12000lbs.
View attachment 49652
Thanks

Your stock springs should have been 2600 lbs, I would go with 3500 lb springs and install bronze bushings and morryde heavy duty shackle kit which actually comes with the bronze bushings and wet bolts. Grease the bolts every 500-1000 miles, seems like a lot, but there is only a small contact area that has a lot of pressure on the bolt and bushing. Use a high quality extreme pressure grease, I have been using Lucas Red and Tacky and it seems to be working well, my other choice would be a heavy equipment moly fortified grease for use on chassis and loader pins etc. I am not sure what you are refering to as prelubed bearings. Most old school trailer bearings are simply tapered roller bearings that are hand packed with grease. There are never lube bearings available, but I have never seen them in person, they are basically a sealed bearing assembly, I doubt you have those. The X factor braces could be a good way to reinforce your spring hangers, they are available for all three locations, not just the center hanger. I chose to weld in my braces for a couple of reasons. One I am a welder and I have the skillset. Two welded in braces don't rely on bolts to keep everything solid. The downside of welding in the braces is if the corroplast ever needs to be removed the welded braces will make it harder. I did leave a gap between my braces and the bottom of the corroplast in case I need to remove it at some point.
 
It looks like the crossmember only installs at the center equalizer, not sure these install at the other spring hanger locations? Would this crossmember eliminate the need for hanger reinforcements at the equalizer frame connection? It looks to be an easy add on no welding needed. Thanks

They will fit at all locations as I have 3 under my 220RK. I had to drill a hole in my widened hanger bracket (Dexter) for the front/rear fit. I have attached some photos showing the install. I had the old version which has the end plats attached to the cross member. The new style is much easier to install as the end plate is separate. They also have a drop bracket to clear piping too. https://www.morryde.com/products/x-factor-crossmember/

It does require replacing the wet bolt (included in kit)to a longer one as the cross member bracket is tied to the existing hanger when installed. I also installed MorRydes Heavy Duty shackle kit. I highly recommend that too. https://www.morryde.com/products/heavy-duty-shackle-kit/

I would still weld in the V-Clips, but the cross bracing will greatly reduce any individual hanger bracket stress as it shares it across the trailer to the opposite one.

Hope this helps
 

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Steven@147. Correct me if I'm wrong or if I misread your post, but I don't believe adding 4000# springs make the axles now capable of 8000#.
The 8000# axles are a larger diameter and I would think a thicker axle wall thickness to carry the extra weight.
 
Steven@147. Correct me if I'm wrong or if I misread your post, but I don't believe adding 4000# springs make the axles now capable of 8000#.
The 8000# axles are a larger diameter and I would think a thicker axle wall thickness to carry the extra weight.

I believe that's correct. IIRC, 7K axles are 3.5", 8K are 4"? I moved to 4K springs on my 351M because the stock springs (3500) were completely flat in ~1 year. The 4K springs seemed to handle the load better, but, I agree, that doesn't make the axle into 8K.
 
I believe that's correct. IIRC, 7K axles are 3.5", 8K are 4"? I moved to 4K springs on my 351M because the stock springs (3500) were completely flat in ~1 year. The 4K springs seemed to handle the load better, but, I agree, that doesn't make the axle into 8K.

Please understand while 7K may be 3.5" dia and 8K 4" dia its the wall thickness that's important. I believe the wall thickness is .25" for the 7K or 8K or if LW (Light wall) could be .16.

Look on the axle tag. Either can be easily dented from improper jacking or road debris - shredded truck tire. Or even during transport and assembly (over torqued U bolt or improper storage and lifting)

As for springs many of the sparing packs contain the same length and thickness leaves - they just add more for the higher capacity. What this mean is the initial compression rate is the same for normal towing until the higher load is applied.

On edit
To better understand the axle tube thickness availability and even order Dexter custom axles and springs, these folks were experts and great to work with https://ironbeartrailer.com/ They are located near Denver CO.. This is where I ordered my Custom axles from.

I tried talking to Dexter direct and most Dexter folks did not have a clue to what is available. Iron Bear did.
 
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Steven@147. Correct me if I'm wrong or if I misread your post, but I don't believe adding 4000# springs make the axles now capable of 8000#.
The 8000# axles are a larger diameter and I would think a thicker axle wall thickness to carry the extra weight.

Correct, much has been learned by this grasshopper since the beginning of 2023.
 
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