Need for cut-off switch for solar controller

[nogascans]

Greetings!

Wife and I own a Grand Design 260RD (2022 model) that came equipped with Solar package with single panel and 50A Furrion controller and Furrion 12V Side x side fridge.

Back story:
We have been having some issues with battery power staying up when parked at home and on shore power. Issue started after having had the unit back at GD dealer (for 3rd time) to address the Furrion 12V side x side refrigerator issue with side wall breaking loose. 3rd time seemed to be the charm as the dealer was able to rebuild/reinforce the side wall (opposite pantry) and add some additional rear bracing. Last time at dealer took just over 3 months to get serviced.

When we took unit back home last time, found that after a week the fridge would not power up. I had to move the fridge out of the cabinet and found that while the power cord/connection was hot (12v), the unit itself had no power. Found the wiring connected to plastic box on top of unit with internal dual 40A buss style fuses that were both blown. Replaced the fuses and fridge is now functional. Ever since return, have noticed a lower than normal voltage reading on meter on control panel. Meter in RV shows around 12.8-13.1 voltage depending on time of day. I initially looked to failing battery for issue, but battery has checked out OK (Lead Acid, would like to upgrade to Lithium but need to solve issue first).

I noticed that in front basement area, the MPPT50A Furrion controller, which usually had two lights on during day, only had the battery selection light illuminated, and not the power/activity light. After very helpful technical support call with Lippert, it was determined from testing that the solar controller has failed. Lippert graciously has agreed to replace the unit under warranty and we have on the way. I have checked the power switch/key in basement, and it appears functional.

Question I have is: there are no GD (factory) installed cutoffs for either battery or solar panel to controller. Should there be or would there be a recommendation to add?

Documentation with solar controller (and tech support) suggested that power from panel should be disconnected before removing battery (power). Just don't want to risk having another controller damaged due to extended service interval/down time.

Any thoughts?

Sincerely,

David

 

[downsc123]

the newest units are now shipping with a solar disconnect switch. Like you, mine did not come with one so I added it myself - got this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B5R2V39B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Soundsailor]

+1 for adding your own. Like you, my coach didn't come with them, on my to-do list.

 

[ajg617]

+2 for adding your own. The only thing I had was a fuse between the controller and batteries. I asked Jaboni if it was 'ok' that the solar charge controller received voltage/current from the panel even when I removed the batteries. Not optimal so I also installed a similar CB between the panel and the charge controller.

 

[Jomani]

For sure add the DC circuit breaker between the panel and the controller.

I would also be very concerned about that refrigerator. It most likely wasn’t powered down when it sat waiting for service. Since the 175w solar can’t keep up with the refrigerator it most likely went into a low voltage situation which stresses the heck out of the compressor and control board. To make matters worse, it probably tried to run a defrost cycle that spiked the amperage to the point that it blew one of the fuses (one fuse is for the defrost circuit and the other for the cooling circuit). Keep an eye on the refrigerator compartment temperature as that is where you will notice the problem first. Low voltage seems to be the common denominator for failure in these refrigerators.

 

[classicrockguy]

I added this

Blue Sea Systems 6006 m-Series Battery Switch ON/OFF with Knob, Red
https://a.co/d/08RdqZir

between my Furrion controller in the front compartment and a + buss I also added under the front of the trailer. Also added a similar panel disconnect between the panel and the controller as the one referenced previously in this thread. I always disconnect the panel 1st, and then the controller second when shutting down. When starting up, I always energize the controller first, then the panel second. Have had no issues.

 

[nogascans]

Thanks to everyone for the great advice!

I will plan on installing a breaker between the solar panel and controller, and also replace the current battery disconnect (in central basement) with an updated switch style unit, also relocating to front basement storage area on passenger side. I need to order at least one more battery disconnect (for battery +) and still need to investigate how the power for the refrigerator is run from fridge to battery and possibly install a switch there as well.

I went ahead and ordered a replacement LiTime 280Ah Lip04 battery to replace the group 27 L/A battery installed by dealer. Plan on removing the current recessed battery box (cover hole) and locate battery in same location.

We do not (at this point) do a tremendous amount of off-grid/boondocking, but I am going to look at researching future panel expansion (would assume will need a larger charge controller due to its 600W limit. Also noticed that the currently installed panel dimensions are smaller than current (and larger output) Furrion panel, so assume I would need to seal at least some of the roof retaining plate screw holes. Any thoughts on aftermarket or home style rigid panels as a source?

Also, iIf anyone has some pictures of any expansion (panels) please feel free to share, along with any issues noted or welcomed suggestions as the level of experience here is much appreciated!

Sincerely,

David

 

[classicrockguy]

Thanks to everyone for the great advice!

I will plan on installing a breaker between the solar panel and controller, and also replace the current battery disconnect (in central basement) with an updated switch style unit, also relocating to front basement storage area on passenger side. I need to order at least one more battery disconnect (for battery +) and still need to investigate how the power for the refrigerator is run from fridge to battery and possibly install a switch there as well.

I went ahead and ordered a replacement LiTime 280Ah Lip04 battery to replace the group 27 L/A battery installed by dealer. Plan on removing the current recessed battery box (cover hole) and locate battery in same location.

We do not (at this point) do a tremendous amount of off-grid/boondocking, but I am going to look at researching future panel expansion (would assume will need a larger charge controller due to its 600W limit. Also noticed that the currently installed panel dimensions are smaller than current (and larger output) Furrion panel, so assume I would need to seal at least some of the roof retaining plate screw holes. Any thoughts on aftermarket or home style rigid panels as a source?

Also, iIf anyone has some pictures of any expansion (panels) please feel free to share, along with any issues noted or welcomed suggestions as the level of experience here is much appreciated!

Sincerely,

David

I actually posted a pretty detailed thread on 12v electrical mods to my rig about a year ago. You might find some of it useful.

https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/showthread.php/49806-Wiring-Issues-with-2022-Reflection-315RLTS

 

[Jerry Davis]

We have a 2024 303 rv. The problem with the solar disconnect switch location in our rig.....They installed it between the controller and battery. Therefore when you switch it off it shuts off power to battery but still has power going to controller. Makes on wonder who are installing switches and what type of "Quailty control" this is or lack of?

 

[Danolid]

Yes installed this and it works great.
Since though I dumped my Furion 50a solar controller after 2 failures. Went with the Victron Smart Controller which so far is great.