New purchase and tank heater install

PeterInNH

Advanced Member
Joined
May 13, 2024
Messages
99
Location
Southern NH
Hi All,

So, I have a 2025 Momentum 28G on order (mid-Sep delivery).

We are really interested in using it year round here in the Northeast (skiing, etc) and so I'm looking at getting tank heating pads for the 3 tanks. I asked my dealer for an estimate and they're saying 10+ hours of labor and something like $1500 to $2000 for the whole job.

Putting aside any concerns about whether I'll have enough electricity to run them (I will, but maybe another thread....) is this a reasonable cost ? If I decide to do it myself is it doable (I'm 'reasonably' handy but certainly not an RV whiz) ? Will I void any warrranties for doing any such add-ons ? Are there any other options to keep the tanks liquid that are easier to install ?

Thanks !

Peter
 
The application of tank heaters would involve the following:
1)removing the underbelly (not complex just maybe awkward due to the size of panels) to gain access to the tanks.
2)finding a 12v line (should be easy even if you have to route your own from the battery. Just remember to put a fuse inline
3)mounting a switch to control the tank heaters—easiest place might be in the wet bay.

The technical part is to choose the correct wire/switch for the run(s). Depending on the current draw of the pads you may choose to put them all one circuit or break them apart into separate circuits.

All the wiring will be straight forward since you will have the underbelly sections removed.
———————-
That said, I assume you have considered your method of keeping the plumbing from freezing in the underbelly. (Ie, running the furnace). Just be aware the tanks freezing is only one dimension to consider when sitting on a spot or traveling below freezing.
 
The application of tank heaters would involve the following:
1)removing the underbelly (not complex just maybe awkward due to the size of panels) to gain access to the tanks.
2)finding a 12v line (should be easy even if you have to route your own from the battery. Just remember to put a fuse inline
3)mounting a switch to control the tank heaters—easiest place might be in the wet bay.

The technical part is to choose the correct wire/switch for the run(s). Depending on the current draw of the pads you may choose to put them all one circuit or break them apart into separate circuits.

All the wiring will be straight forward since you will have the underbelly sections removed.
———————-
That said, I assume you have considered your method of keeping the plumbing from freezing in the underbelly. (Ie, running the furnace). Just be aware the tanks freezing is only one dimension to consider when sitting on a spot or traveling below freezing.

Hi,

Ok, very helpful. It still sounds like if they're estimating 10 hours I'm likely to take (considerably ? lol) longer.

Any thoughts on if this sort of 'upgrade' will void any warranties ?

Thanks !
 
Im glad I ordered mine with the 4 season package, which included tank heaters. Mine has 5 tanks.

The sales guy didn't mention initially that adding them as an option was available, and then when I asked about adding them from the factory, since it's supposedly being built now, he said GD doesn't do that. Hmmm.

Anyway, at this point I'm fairly convinced that I don't want to get into a 20 hour project, maybe mis-wire something and void the warranty (and insurance coverage ! lol) so I think I'll have the dealer do the work - at this point what's another $2k ? Haha.

Thanks !
 
If you are reasonably handy you should be able to do. Putting the coroplast back up might be the hardest part but there are lots of ways to temporarily hold it up while you refasten it.

The pads aren’t terribly big and go near the drain end of the tanks. I’d suggest separate switches and fuses for each pad.

Be sure to clean off the tanks really well before sticking the pads on. Mine sagged (factory installed by a conscientious Amish work I’m sure) but the insulation is holding them up against the tank. I doubt I’ll ever need to use them tho.

While you have the coroplast down you’ll probably note a few other things (wiring, etc) that you might want to fix. The dealer wouldn’t do that.
 
I installed my 6pt auto level system so am very fluent with the underbelly area of a 5th wheel rig and what you are proposing.

At face value, it would not affect the warranty (ie, it's not like you are putting on an aftermarket hitch or something). BUT...if something gets messed up by the installers while they have the underbelly off (think ratsnest of wires, etc) then it might become an issue. Ie, should one of tank sensors or leveling jacks not work you could not say conclusively that defect came that way from the factory.

My recommendation would be the following:
1)Get them factory installed if at all possible.
2)Do not let a dealer do the work. Find a reputable shop that is recommended to you by another trailer owner (of course it could end up being the dealer)
3)Wait to make any mods until after you are convinced the new trailer functionality is all good (even better after its warranty is up)

My guidance is based on the fear of getting caught in the middle between the dealer aftermarket work and the GD warranty...there has been plenty of finger pointing between GD and it's subsystem vendors (appliances, Lippert, etc) I would not want to be adding complexity to that equation. Particularly when labor rates are $200ish/hr and wait times to get your rig in and out of a dealer are measured in the weeks/months range.
 
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I just realized I didnt answer your other question--" Are there any other options to keep the tanks liquid that are easier to install ?"

In theory the furnace would keep your tanks from freezing while parked. However, if you travel with liquid in the tanks when its below freezing then you will have problems (think frozen liquid, valves frozen shut, etc). This is the benefit of the 12v tank heater pads. it would keep the tanks/valves from freezing regardless of the furnace operation.

Again, consider the fresh water system. Furnace would keep the underbelly from freezing BUT you would have to drain/winterize the fresh water system before moving the trailer if traveling under freezing conditions.

Of course, even with the best insulation, the furnace can only keep things from freezing to a certain point, I have read of folks on the forum who are in extreme cold and their pipes freeze despite the furnace running non stop. That info should be easily searchable on the forum.
 
I do want to install the Mopeka tank level sensors, which will require pulling down the coroplast sheeting. But I have been able to keep the factory installed sensors clean over the last 2 years, fulltiming.
 
I installed my 6pt auto level system so am very fluent with the underbelly area of a 5th wheel rig and what you are proposing.

At face value, it would not affect the warranty (ie, it's not like you are putting on an aftermarket hitch or something). BUT...if something gets messed up by the installers while they have the underbelly off (think ratsnest of wires, etc) then it might become an issue. Ie, should one of tank sensors or leveling jacks not work you could not say conclusively that defect came that way from the factory.

My recommendation would be the following:
1)Get them factory installed if at all possible.
2)Do not let a dealer do the work. Find a reputable shop that is recommended to you by another trailer owner (of course it could end up being the dealer)
3)Wait to make any mods until after you are convinced the new trailer functionality is all good (even better after its warranty is up)

My guidance is based on the fear of getting caught in the middle between the dealer aftermarket work and the GD warranty...there has been plenty of finger pointing between GD and it's subsystem vendors (appliances, Lippert, etc) I would not want to be adding complexity to that equation. Particularly when labor rates are $200ish/hr and wait times to get your rig in and out of a dealer are measured in the weeks/months range.

Not that it's a big deal but I'm not getting a 5th wheel.

1) I'm asking the factory install question again
2) I'm in Southern NH - where do I get such recommendations ?
3) Ok, yes, I can see waiting a couple of weeks but want the heaters for this winter so can't wait for warrranty to expire.

Yes, I definitely don't want to get in the middle of anything like that.

Thanks !
 
I just realized I didnt answer your other question--" Are there any other options to keep the tanks liquid that are easier to install ?"

In theory the furnace would keep your tanks from freezing while parked. However, if you travel with liquid in the tanks when its below freezing then you will have problems (think frozen liquid, valves frozen shut, etc). This is the benefit of the 12v tank heater pads. it would keep the tanks/valves from freezing regardless of the furnace operation.

Again, consider the fresh water system. Furnace would keep the underbelly from freezing BUT you would have to drain/winterize the fresh water system before moving the trailer if traveling under freezing conditions.

Of course, even with the best insulation, the furnace can only keep things from freezing to a certain point, I have read of folks on the forum who are in extreme cold and their pipes freeze despite the furnace running non stop. That info should be easily searchable on the forum.

Yep, I get it about the furnace. I was wondering if there was, just spitballing here, something you could lower into the tanks from the inside ? I don't see how but you never know if you don't ask. :)

Yeah, I'm hoping to avoid winterizing every time I move so that's why I want the heaters - with a good LiFePo battery bank and solar (and the minor trickle from the truck) I'm hoping to keep everything liquid enough to deal with when get where going next.

The last few years here in NH/VT only rarely have we experienced temps in the single digits - and then it was on the mountain. Maybe that pendulum will swing back, who knows ?

Thanks !
 
Im glad I ordered mine with the 4 season package, which included tank heaters. Mine has 5 tanks.

The Reflections all come with the so-called Four Seasons package mandatory and have tank heaters stock.

Perhaps [MENTION=331]huntr70[/MENTION] can tell the OP whether he already has tank heaters or not.

Those things said, lots of other things will freeze before the tanks do...

Rob
 
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The Reflections all come with the so-called Four Seasons package mandatory and have tank heaters stock.

Perhaps @huntr70 can tell the OP whether he already has tank heaters or not.

Those things said, lots of other things will freeze before the tanks do...

Rob

The sales guy thinks it's mainly the 5th wheels that come with it stock but he's double checking with the GD rep. We'll see.

Yep, plumbing and valves - maybe heat tape for all that but then the amp draw becomes something to really consider. Also thinking about that....

Thanks !
 
Momentum travel trailers do not have tank heaters on them.

None of the G series models have them, TT's or 5Ws.

All Reflection TT's and 5W's have them on.
 
Momentum travel trailers do not have tank heaters on them.

None of the G series models have them, TT's or 5Ws.

All Reflection TT's and 5W's have them on.

Ok, so just got a reply from sales guy and he says "that 12v heating pads are now standard on Momentum travel trailers". The list of upgrades to the 2025 line are amazing - better generator, 50amp shore power, ABS and now heated tanks. Wow ! sure hope it's all true ! So, will wait a couple of weeks and see.

If not, maybe will evaluate choice and go with something else that does have all that.

Thanks !
 
I spent the winter in my forest river TT before retiring and hitting the road full time. Eastern PA, Bath to be exact, about the same temps i did see in NH when i worked there doing linework for 24 years. With skirting, and only heat tape with pipe insulation on the water hose, never, ever had anything freeze.

Now, a few years ago in Texas for the winter when they got the cold snap and lost power to quite a bit, we where one of the areas that lost power and with that water, so it was have fresh tank full and use that. So with not being able to skirt because of rules, I had the water freeze between the tank and the pump, no problems with any of the tanks, just that hose. The camper did have the under side coro plastic stuff but it didnt do much. So, without skirting, that seemed to make that short piece of tubbing between the pump under the bathroom sink and the tank right below, the week/freeze spot. It took a lot to free it up, but it was a lesson learned. Now i dont have that camper but it was a lesson.

For the OP, so maybe check the area of your new rig to see if it is a week spot for that pipe area i had freeze just that one time, might be worth addressing it before hand.
 
The last few years here in NH/VT only rarely have we experienced temps in the single digits - and then it was on the mountain. Maybe that pendulum will swing back, who knows ?

Thanks !
Careful. Feb 2022 we hit -13F just west of MHT - only one night but it can happen. Our scouts went out on a winter camping trip many years back to Northfield, Mass (just south of Winchester, NH) - hit -23F. Lowest I've seen. It's hard to track because the only official weather records in the state are for Concord.
 
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I spent the winter in my forest river TT before retiring and hitting the road full time. Eastern PA, Bath to be exact, about the same temps i did see in NH when i worked there doing linework for 24 years. With skirting, and only heat tape with pipe insulation on the water hose, never, ever had anything freeze.

Now, a few years ago in Texas for the winter when they got the cold snap and lost power to quite a bit, we where one of the areas that lost power and with that water, so it was have fresh tank full and use that. So with not being able to skirt because of rules, I had the water freeze between the tank and the pump, no problems with any of the tanks, just that hose. The camper did have the under side coro plastic stuff but it didnt do much. So, without skirting, that seemed to make that short piece of tubbing between the pump under the bathroom sink and the tank right below, the week/freeze spot. It took a lot to free it up, but it was a lesson learned. Now i dont have that camper but it was a lesson.

For the OP, so maybe check the area of your new rig to see if it is a week spot for that pipe area i had freeze just that one time, might be worth addressing it before hand.

Great info and suggestion ! Thanks !
 

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