new to RVing. I have truck but will it tow 2600RB?

ricklauri

New Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2023
Messages
2
Location
Dundas, Ontario, Canada
I have a 2018 F150 Supercrew 4x4, 145" wb, 3.5L EcoBoost GTDI V6 3.55 axle ratio with 53C tow package. Per Ford "Max loaded trailer weight" I can tow 10,700lbs with GCWR of 16,100 lbs. I want to purchase a 2022 2600RB c/w Blue Ox weight distribution hitch (per spec 594lb hitch, 5795 UVW & 7850 GVWR) looks like I'm ok. but am I...........?? I was on a site that said the details per Ford are not accurate. I used there method to calculate c/o

"To get the actual trailer weight limit for YOUR truck, take your truck's "Payload Rating" off of the driver door sticker. Subtract the weight of the driver and all passengers who will be in the truck. Subtract the weight of the weight distribution hitch (you DO have a weight distribution hitch, don't you). If you have a topper or a tonneau cover, subtract its weight. Estimate and subtract the weight of all the stuff you will carry in the truck while camping, like chairs, tables, generators, grills, firewood, EVERYTHING. Now, take whatever is left of the payload rating and divide by 13%. Whatever number you get is the maximum-ish trailer weight (loaded, not dry) that you can safely tow.The trailer's tongue weight should be in the 10% to 15% range of its total weight for sway control. You can get a range of maximum trailer weights by dividing by 10% and 15%, but I think 13% gets you in the ball park +/- a couple of hundred pounds."

Using that calcilation above I get from 6200 lbs to 6900 lbs loaded trailer weight............which to me means my truck would not be a good fit. Totally confused. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated as I have found the trailer I want but can't afford to buy a new truck.
 
I have a 2018 F150 Supercrew 4x4, 145" wb, 3.5L EcoBoost GTDI V6 3.55 axle ratio with 53C tow package. Per Ford "Max loaded trailer weight" I can tow 10,700lbs with GCWR of 16,100 lbs. I want to purchase a 2022 2600RB c/w Blue Ox weight distribution hitch (per spec 594lb hitch, 5795 UVW & 7850 GVWR) looks like I'm ok. but am I...........?? I was on a site that said the details per Ford are not accurate. I used there method to calculate c/o

"To get the actual trailer weight limit for YOUR truck, take your truck's "Payload Rating" off of the driver door sticker. Subtract the weight of the driver and all passengers who will be in the truck. Subtract the weight of the weight distribution hitch (you DO have a weight distribution hitch, don't you). If you have a topper or a tonneau cover, subtract its weight. Estimate and subtract the weight of all the stuff you will carry in the truck while camping, like chairs, tables, generators, grills, firewood, EVERYTHING. Now, take whatever is left of the payload rating and divide by 13%. Whatever number you get is the maximum-ish trailer weight (loaded, not dry) that you can safely tow.The trailer's tongue weight should be in the 10% to 15% range of its total weight for sway control. You can get a range of maximum trailer weights by dividing by 10% and 15%, but I think 13% gets you in the ball park +/- a couple of hundred pounds."

Using that calcilation above I get from 6200 lbs to 6900 lbs loaded trailer weight............which to me means my truck would not be a good fit. Totally confused. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated as I have found the trailer I want but can't afford to buy a new truck.
What is the cargo carrying capacity rating of your truck? From the door sticker? On Fords it will say, "The combined weight of occupants and cargo should not exceed:" then a number. For my F350, that number is 3,273 lbs.

Once you have that, load everything into the truck that you would take camping and not carry in the camper, including all people and 4 legged family that would go with you in the truck, hitch, go fill the gas tank, go to the truck stop with a CAT scale, and get the actual weight of your loaded truck.

Then subtract at number from the GVWR listed on the truck. That will give you your remaining cargo carrying capacity. That number SHOULD be less than the CCC number on the yellow sticker inside the driver's door. In my case, my remaining CCC is 2,469 lbs.

For my fifth wheel, my CALCULATED pin weight is 2,799 lbs. When I weighed my combined rig (truck with coach attached), my pin weight was 2,240 lbs. With no water in the tanks.

I'm pushing the very upper limit of my CCC.

Also, if you searched the forum, this topic comes up at least once a week and it's answered just as thoroughly as my reply here.
 
Last edited:
Thanks. 1813 lbs is on the door sticker you refer to. I am looking around on the site for details.
The calculated pin weight of that trailer is approximately 1,177.5 lbs when fully loaded. That means you have 635.5 lbs of CCC available (this is without weighing the vehicle). Subtract the weight of you and your passenger(s) at an average of 180 lbs of adult makes and 150 lbs average for adult females, for two people, that would be around 330 lbs. Now, you have 305.5 lbs of CCC available. Subtract tools and other stuff, and you will likely arrive at a negative CCC.

As was started in another response, you will have to much trailer for your truck and, after the first time or two of driving it for a distance, you will be looking for a new 3/4 or 1 ton truck.
 
That is a lot of payload on that TT, unless you plan on loading a lot you can plan about 1,000 lbs over empty for actual loaded weight.

You do have a shorter wheelbase then I do and I don't believe you have max tow so our trucks aren't exactly the same. I would be ok with that trailer on my truck, I tow a 2800BH which is about 2' longer and a little heavier. For a year and a half I was very happy with how it towed with the Blue Ox sway pro, then late last year I had wind issues three separate times. The hitch did its job and brought the TT back in line after each push although it was an uncomfortable and possibly dangerous drive. I have upgraded to a Pro Pride but only have one trip with good conditions with it so far.
 
I have a 2018 F150 Supercrew 4x4, 145" wb, 3.5L EcoBoost GTDI V6 3.55 axle ratio with 53C tow package. Per Ford "Max loaded trailer weight" I can tow 10,700lbs with GCWR of 16,100 lbs. I want to purchase a 2022 2600RB c/w Blue Ox weight distribution hitch (per spec 594lb hitch, 5795 UVW & 7850 GVWR) looks like I'm ok. but am I...........?? I was on a site that said the details per Ford are not accurate. I used there method to calculate c/o

"To get the actual trailer weight limit for YOUR truck, take your truck's "Payload Rating" off of the driver door sticker. Subtract the weight of the driver and all passengers who will be in the truck. Subtract the weight of the weight distribution hitch (you DO have a weight distribution hitch, don't you). If you have a topper or a tonneau cover, subtract its weight. Estimate and subtract the weight of all the stuff you will carry in the truck while camping, like chairs, tables, generators, grills, firewood, EVERYTHING. Now, take whatever is left of the payload rating and divide by 13%. Whatever number you get is the maximum-ish trailer weight (loaded, not dry) that you can safely tow.The trailer's tongue weight should be in the 10% to 15% range of its total weight for sway control. You can get a range of maximum trailer weights by dividing by 10% and 15%, but I think 13% gets you in the ball park +/- a couple of hundred pounds."

Using that calcilation above I get from 6200 lbs to 6900 lbs loaded trailer weight............which to me means my truck would not be a good fit. Totally confused. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated as I have found the trailer I want but can't afford to buy a new truck.

I have 1600 lbs of payload and make it work. It's just me, wife, dog, and minimal cargo in the truck. I towed from Arizona to Wisconsin and back last year with zero issues. Plenty of stopping power. Plenty of downhill engine braking with manual shifting. Plenty of power to hold 55-60 mph up hills in AZ, NM, and CO, even with the "weak" GM 5.3L. You'll be fine as long as you don't plan on carrying hundreds of pounds of tools, firewood, etc in the truck.

I'm getting a 3/4 ton next time, but the 2600RB is happy behind my half ton for now.

That said, I did spend the $ to make the half ton experience the best it can be. ProPride hitch, RAS on the rear axle of the truck, and Load Range E tires in place of the squishy P metric tires that are on factory half tons.
 
I have a 2018 F150 Supercrew 4x4, 145" wb, 3.5L EcoBoost GTDI V6 3.55 axle ratio with 53C tow package. Per Ford "Max loaded trailer weight" I can tow 10,700lbs with GCWR of 16,100 lbs. I want to purchase a 2022 2600RB c/w Blue Ox weight distribution hitch (per spec 594lb hitch, 5795 UVW & 7850 GVWR) looks like I'm ok. but am I...........?? I was on a site that said the details per Ford are not accurate. I used there method to calculate c/o

"To get the actual trailer weight limit for YOUR truck, take your truck's "Payload Rating" off of the driver door sticker. Subtract the weight of the driver and all passengers who will be in the truck. Subtract the weight of the weight distribution hitch (you DO have a weight distribution hitch, don't you). If you have a topper or a tonneau cover, subtract its weight. Estimate and subtract the weight of all the stuff you will carry in the truck while camping, like chairs, tables, generators, grills, firewood, EVERYTHING. Now, take whatever is left of the payload rating and divide by 13%. Whatever number you get is the maximum-ish trailer weight (loaded, not dry) that you can safely tow.The trailer's tongue weight should be in the 10% to 15% range of its total weight for sway control. You can get a range of maximum trailer weights by dividing by 10% and 15%, but I think 13% gets you in the ball park +/- a couple of hundred pounds."

Using that calcilation above I get from 6200 lbs to 6900 lbs loaded trailer weight............which to me means my truck would not be a good fit. Totally confused. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated as I have found the trailer I want but can't afford to buy a new truck.

Looks like you're new here [MENTION=52860]ricklauri[/MENTION], welcome to the forum. Sounds like you've already had some good advice on truck capacity, my experience is that it is better to have a bit more than enough, the towing experience with a 3/4 ton is significantly different than with a half-ton.
 
We have a 2600RB but pull it with a 2022 F250SD 6.7 diesel. We tried it with the Tundra 5.7L gas V8 and it was really marginal...especially in hills. There was no way to use the cruise-control. I think you will be a little under-powered with the 3.5L V6, especially if you have mountains and are ever in a hurry. The 2600RB is rated at 7850 full-load. You are probably okay on weights.
 
I think you will be a little under-powered with the 3.5L V6, especially if you have mountains and are ever in a hurry.

The 3.5 Eco boost is very capable and I have never heard anyone complain about lack of power with it and it won't be a limiting factor hear. I have not been in the western mountains but in the Smokey's I have not found one I can't easily accelerate on. I am not familiar with the Tundra and 5.7 but the 3.5 and I think even the 2.7 will outperform the Ford 5.0.
 
I had basically the 2014 version of your F150 Supercrew. The 3.5 EB is a great towing engine. We upgraded our trailer and according to the specs we were fine. IIRC the trailer was in the mid 7k weight range. I bought a tongue scale and figured out that my TT tongue weight was 1000lb even. FML. The rating on the OEM hitch is 1050lb max. Needless to say I was right at or over a few of my ratings even with an empty bed. If you are towing it 30 min away to the lake or something its prob fine but long trips will be uncomfortable. Power wasnt an issue. The truck is just so light and the EB engine is a really light engine so your front end will feel a bit less than planted even with a good WD hitch. After a couple trips with that setup we traded for an F350 SRW and it was so better. Towing on a breezy day was no longer a white knuckle affair.
 
I have a 2021 2600RB and tow vehicle is 2018 Expedition with 3.5 Eco and tow package. Based in Idaho. I have never had a problem towing this trailer and have been all through the Western mountains. Use Blue Ox hitch. Just my experience for what it's worth.
 
Looks like you're new here [MENTION=52860]ricklauri[/MENTION], welcome to the forum. Sounds like you've already had some good advice on truck capacity, my experience is that it is better to have a bit more than enough, the towing experience with a 3/4 ton is significantly different than with a half-ton.

I would agree. It's better to have more capacity than less. It's funny how most immediately go to "Power" when asked if a truck can/should pull something when there are so many other factors to also consider than just how much HP or torque an engine has. Remember one has to stop, maneuver, and navigate with that load at highway speeds. Those can be way different challenges and experiences with the wrong truck. It's best to figure out what you want to pull---THEN research the truck to pull it! Many seem to be doing it backwards these days.
 
We had a 2012 F150 3.5 Platinum (with Blue Ox) towing a 2600 RB (trailer was 6000 pounds + the shell, + the stuff in the bed + the coolers) across the Rockies numerous times. Yes, according to the scales we were over payload by a few hundred pounds.

Our only upgrade was Ford "heavy duty" brake pads and rotors.

Regardless of what the Tow Police claim, insurance companies seldom calculate or weigh a wrecked trailer. However, I am sure some Keyboard Warrior's friend's uncle's neighbor heard of that happening to someone in another state. In my past, I was an auto adjuster for 12+ years. My goal was to settle the claim promptly, because my plate was always full. I saw a lot of stupid accidents. Fortunately, "stupid," is not an insurance policy exclusion.

Ordered a 2022 F250 6.7 Lariat with the Max tow package (F350 rear diff. and rear springs) and noticed more power and improved sway reduction. It can easily be sold for more than I paid in Aug. 2021. An F250 diesel will maintain it's value.

Best wishes on your future plans and travels.
 
I’ve been pulling a 2017 Imagine 2600RB with a 2015 and a 2019 F150 super crew with a 3.5 ecoboost for five years. No issues as long as you don’t overload the tounge weight. Five trips to Myrtle Beach and one trip to Montana. Power never an issue from the Cincinnati area
 
I’ve been pulling a 2017 Imagine 2600RB with a 2015 and a 2019 F150 super crew with a 3.5 ecoboost for five years. No issues as long as you don’t overload the tounge weight. Five trips to Myrtle Beach and one trip to Montana. Power never an issue from the Cincinnati area

Why would you have issues “overloading” the TW?

I intentionally load my trailer so the TW is heavy. It makes for the best towing experience
 
I recently responded to a towing question on another post where the original poster was....unfortunately....towing with an unsuitable vehicle for a 2600RB. As you can see from my signature I am towing with a GMC 1500 and all my weights are in order in reference to the GM labels and the numbers obtained at the cat scales. I do have some slack. However, if it were not for Covid I would have upgraded to a 2500 for the increased payload and towing stability. I use the truck mainly for towing the trailer as I have 2 other cars for daily usage. The truck is leased and due this May. As mentioned my hopes were to lease a 2500 (quoted last June at 886.00 monthly) when it came time to order in October the lease cost was $1300.00.

Sometimes the pockets dictate our choices. I will be buying the truck at lease end and put air bags, change out the tires, and put Bilstein shocks on it. As for the trailer, Mor-ryde upgrade, and got rid of the soft Westlake's opting for Good Year. Will this improve the towability.....yes. Will it improve the numbers....no. Will it be a safer ride...likely.

Now considering changing the weight distribution hitch. Many mentions on the Blue OX. The Propride and/or Hensley in $ CAD will cost more than the mods mentioned above.

Having said this...would I prefer to have upgraded to a 2500....absolutely.

To summarize......if you can do it then go for it and safe travels.
 
[MENTION=39417]Petrovsky[/MENTION] before investing in airbags, I'd recommend a long look at the Roadmaster Active Suspension setup. I've been very pleased with the performance of this modification.
 
That's the way I felt. The F150 was just too light. I'm glad to read someone felt the same way. I was starting to think I was the only one. I ended up with a Ram 2500.
 
[MENTION=39417]Petrovsky[/MENTION] before investing in airbags, I'd recommend a long look at the Roadmaster Active Suspension setup. I've been very pleased with the performance of this modification.
I have a 2022 Silverado 2500 and am unhappy with the squat I get towing my Imagine 2450rl. I also get a lot of rebound over bumps (I do not run weight distributing bars after they bent my frame last year). The new Chevy trucks are essentially leveled from factory, so they squat under load. Fully loaded I am 5675lbs on the rear axle.

How does the Roadmaster Active Suspension help with squat and rebound? I was looking at airbags, but think the RAS may be a better solution-looking for real world experience from someone.

Thanks
 

New posts

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top Bottom