Newbie breaking the "don't buy new" rule? 2022 Momentum 25G

[Lady_Violet_XXI]

About General RV...you'll only know if you get quotes from them directly. Add on fees or not, we saved $3,000 driving 6 hours to a General RV vs buying locally, and they had the unit in stock to boot. Yep, they had a $1,200 prep fee - it was bogus but they were still a lot cheaper than we could find at the time anywhere else. That was the 22MLE. The 22LDE we purchased last month 90 miles away and not from General RV. Not because we wouldn't for any reason, just because they had the right price and it was more convenient. Anyway, don't listen to what others say about this or that place, you really have to check things out for yourself.

New or used? Your choice. Neither is "dumber or smarter" than the other. I've purchased all used motorhomes and travel trailers over the years until 2 years ago. Here's what I'll tell you about used...the kinks can certainly be worked out by the previous owners, but these are often superficial things. It's only used that I've ended up refurbishing. In one I pulled stained wallboard to find that the leak from a window rotted the floor under a cabinet that I couldn't see. I've refurbished 3 travel trailers; all with water damage you could not readily see. You cannot know how well or poorly previous owners maintained their sealants. You may not see obvious water leaks now, but you don't know how long it leaked before they tidied things up in order to sell the unit.

New or used, as an owner the most important thing you can do to maintain your investment is maintain your sealants top to bottom. I've never regretted purchasing a new vehicle, a new house, a new boat, or a new RV, but I have certainly had regrets purchasing used items and finding the problems that people didn't willingly share when I did not suspect something and ask about it. That said, money isn't a significant issue for me. I'll generally spend more for better than cheap to get-by given the choice if that makes sense.

Now, on the new stuff. Yes, they have problems too. But on a vehicle and an RV you have a warranty period to work out the kinks. Personally, I prefer to do my own work on RVs and boats so rarely need to use the warranty. Vehicles are a different story, if there's a warranty it's going to the shop. The 22MLE we purchased new had a water leak two weeks after we brought it home. I got up on the roof and sealed everything. I could see the cracks in the sealant along the trim. One might ask, so what's the point of purchasing new then? The answer is, because I caught that leak within 3 days of identifying it. You don't know that someone else would have done the same. And because I properly sealed everything up there, I know that leak or others are not going to be a problem 2 or 10 years down the road.

Okay, off the soapbox now. Only you know what makes sense for you. In either case, focus first on shoring up the sealants everywhere before you worry about decorating the inside. You'll be happier 10 years down the road if you hang on to it. If you don't, the future buyer will thank you whether they know it or not. Good luck with your decision!

"That said, money isn't a significant issue for me."

Chad, Are you single? LOL! Kidding!
You made a lot of good points. Then again it sounds like we think alike, so maybe I'm just agreeing with myself. I've learned from experience I'm an exception to many rules. I keep my things clean and in good repair. The last vehicle I sold to a dealer was my Saturn Vue 2007. It was 10 years old and the dealer just couldn't believe it. He actually asked a few of his employees how old they thought it was. Nobody guessed anywhere close.

Every time I think I've made up my mind to buy this 25G I find myself thinking it wasn't what I planned to do when I decided to buy. But that was before I knew I wanted a toy hauler and learned about the industry boom of the past few years. Depreciation is the sticking point for me - I don't usually buy new cars for that reason. But the exception was when I was pregnant with my daughter and we had very specific needs in a vehicle. We got a good deal on that new Saturn Vue and I never regretted buying it. Had it 10 years and I planned to drive it until the wheels fell off, but my mom decided to give us her van and best laid plans.

At this point I feel like I'm trying to talk myself out of it, rather than into it. If you'll pardon the pun, I'm just spinning my wheels now. Might I pay a bit more than I'd like? Yes, maybe. But I honestly don't think I'll regret buying it any more than I regretted that Saturn. Damn, I miss that car!

 

[Riverbug]

"That said, money isn't a significant issue for me."

Chad, Are you single? LOL! Kidding!
You made a lot of good points. Then again it sounds like we think alike, so maybe I'm just agreeing with myself. I've learned from experience I'm an exception to many rules. I keep my things clean and in good repair. The last vehicle I sold to a dealer was my Saturn Vue 2007. It was 10 years old and the dealer just couldn't believe it. He actually asked a few of his employees how old they thought it was. Nobody guessed anywhere close.

Every time I think I've made up my mind to buy this 25G I find myself thinking it wasn't what I planned to do when I decided to buy. But that was before I knew I wanted a toy hauler and learned about the industry boom of the past few years. Depreciation is the sticking point for me - I don't usually buy new cars for that reason. But the exception was when I was pregnant with my daughter and we had very specific needs in a vehicle. We got a good deal on that new Saturn Vue and I never regretted buying it. Had it 10 years and I planned to drive it until the wheels fell off, but my mom decided to give us her van and best laid plans.

At this point I feel like I'm trying to talk myself out of it, rather than into it. If you'll pardon the pun, I'm just spinning my wheels now. Might I pay a bit more than I'd like? Yes, maybe. But I honestly don't think I'll regret buying it any more than I regretted that Saturn. Damn, I miss that car!

LOL! We are a bit alike. I sold my 2004 F150 which was still in pristine condition when we (yes, married) purchased our 2022 F350. After pulling the 22MLE to FL and back last winter we quickly decided that truck wasn't making our bucket list trips through CO and AK over the next couple of years. We both wanted way more truck than we need rather than just enough. Fingers crossed this truck will last us 20 years. The RV thing was one of those things that happen...we bought the new 22MLE because it was right at the time, months later they released the 23LDE floorplan and we realized if that had been available at the time, that would have been the one. I'm doing lots of upgrades before our upcoming bucket list trips so we decided to take the lumps now and upgrade rather than wait a few years after I've done all the work to the MLE. We don't like to throw money away, but sometimes things just happen that way. The switch costed us $4,000 because we traded in vs selling outright - there's a whole thread on that topic too.

Whatever you do, make sure you know your weights (especially payload) and get a truck that is going to comfortably get the job done. It is no fun when the tow vehicle is barely enough or not quite enough to do the job. It's been way fun to finally have a truck that is so much more than we need. I'll never regret that decision!

Decsisons, decisions...love those first world problems!

 

[ExNihilo]

I bought new first shot out. Do what you want. Used can go bad and new can have recalls or issues. GD is a good rig overall. Hopefully your dealer supports you. The forum has lots of great people and each has a different opinion. You will find those that you seek their opinions and answers.

Here is the important thing. Enjoy the journey, have fun and go live the life you seek.

I drive a diesel but other are happy with gas. That is big rig, I would like diesel personally and probably a full ton but it’s just an opinion.

Welcome to the forum!

 

[smullinax]

[QUOTE= Am I stupid for buying new (even if it is a 2022)? Why or why not?

I think you're smart to buy a new "leftover" if you have done your homework on what fits your needs.
Our first RV was a brand new 40' diesel pusher. It met our needs and worked great for 2 1/2 years until age and health dictated a change in lifestyle. So now we are in a 2022 Solitude that was purchased new as a "leftover" at a 29% discount to msrp.....might be a theme there!
So far this is working out great as more of a seasonal home....less miles, much longer stays.
Anyway, I think you are on the right track. Might want to try to get that price down a bit though.

 

[Lady_Violet_XXI]

This is a long post about towing the 25G. But I think this info will help others too.

First. Holy cows and chickens! The 25G is only 30'11" long, but as a toy hauler, the weight is hefty.
UVW is 8628 lbs.
GVWR is 13,000 lbs
That's an additional payload of 4372 lbs!
A comparable size TT is lighter with a UVR vs GVWR closer to 2k lbs.

Some important numbers:
Water tank - 100 gallons
Fuel tank (for toys) - 30 gal.
100 gallons water = 830 lbs
30 gallons gasoline = ~180lbs
Both tanks at capacity = 1,010 lbs!

For my personal needs, only an extended boondock might call for that. My "toy" weighs 300lbs and doesn't use gas. I'll carry some fuel for the generator, but certainly not 30 gallons.

I don't foresee approaching the GVWR limit, unless my needs change significantly.
As far as terrain, I'm leaving cold, flat WI for hot, flatter Florida with a trip to VA in March.

I'm sold on diesel. But there are limited choices for hauling up to 13000 lbs. I figure 15000 TC minimum to be safe, agreed? If I stick to an added load of ~2000 lbs, the actual GVW would be (UVW 8628 + 2000) 10,628. Not quite as extreme.

I'll confess something that will make some of you laugh. I figured I'd settle for an older, used truck for now and trade up in a year or two. I had no idea how tow capacity has changed in the past 20 years. It's insane.
Example:
*2023 Ford F250 - up to 20,000 lbs TC.
*2010 F250 - 9900-12,000 (most for sale are the minimum)

Even older F350s don't have enough TC.
In a nut shell, finding an older truck with TC of 15000 lbs is as rare as a pregnant unicorn.

Wow, okay.
Thoughts? Suggestions? Questions?

P. S.
I'm trading in my 2014 Chrysler T&C minivan.
It has less than 50k miles and great condition. I already had a dealer offer me $12k cash. I'm hoping for a little more on trade. So that's something.

 

[WhittleBurner]

The price of used trucks is quite high right now.We traded in our 2015 3500 Denali last year for 3k less than we paid for it 7 years ago. The price difference between new and used could be close enough to each other it would make more sense to get a new one. Especially if your financing. The rate for a new one being lower would help to make up the difference on the price.

 

[geotex1]

Thanks for the feedback. All I've heard about it has come about in the last week after a youtube video was posted. Nary a word about issues before that. Just seemed like typical youtube hysteria.
I'm a Ram fanboi, so it doesn't affect me.

Lol! I became a RAM fan after most of my life devoted to GM! I actually inquired of my nephew when two Escapees lost their new coaches to the Godzilla failing with barely any miles on them and he clued me in as he's one that's been specifically trained on the motor. Concerned me because not only do we provide casting sands to the OEs, but my field service technician fleet is being migrated to F350-F550s with the 7.3L gasser. Some might recall the F550 10-foot utility body I was driving around up till the first of the year when the new tech for the Mid-Atlantic started. All I need it these becoming headaches as I should have all 12 trucks swapped by Q4 - late and compressed due to their supply challenges.
[MENTION=52835]Lady_Violet_XXI[/MENTION], besides my inadvertent tangent, a lot depends on your timetable and nimbleness. What I mean is that some excellent used trucks pop up, and lately pricing been less nutty (though higher than pre-pandemic), but you need to be patient, search vigilantly, and be willing to jump immediately to a deal. I am friendly with a local used car dealership owner, and he's saying trucks running through the auctions having been steadily increasing since December.

 

[Riverbug]

This is a long post about towing the 25G. But I think this info will help others too.

First. Holy cows and chickens! The 25G is only 30'11" long, but as a toy hauler, the weight is hefty.
UVW is 8628 lbs.
GVWR is 13,000 lbs
That's an additional payload of 4372 lbs!
A comparable size TT is lighter with a UVR vs GVWR closer to 2k lbs.

Some important numbers:
Water tank - 100 gallons
Fuel tank (for toys) - 30 gal.
100 gallons water = 830 lbs
30 gallons gasoline = ~180lbs
Both tanks at capacity = 1,010 lbs!

For my personal needs, only an extended boondock might call for that. My "toy" weighs 300lbs and doesn't use gas. I'll carry some fuel for the generator, but certainly not 30 gallons.

I don't foresee approaching the GVWR limit, unless my needs change significantly.
As far as terrain, I'm leaving cold, flat WI for hot, flatter Florida with a trip to VA in March.

I'm sold on diesel. But there are limited choices for hauling up to 13000 lbs. I figure 15000 TC minimum to be safe, agreed? If I stick to an added load of ~2000 lbs, the actual GVW would be (UVW 8628 + 2000) 10,628. Not quite as extreme.

I'll confess something that will make some of you laugh. I figured I'd settle for an older, used truck for now and trade up in a year or two. I had no idea how tow capacity has changed in the past 20 years. It's insane.
Example:
*2023 Ford F250 - up to 20,000 lbs TC.
*2010 F250 - 9900-12,000 (most for sale are the minimum)

Even older F350s don't have enough TC.
In a nut shell, finding an older truck with TC of 15000 lbs is as rare as a pregnant unicorn.

Wow, okay.
Thoughts? Suggestions? Questions?

P. S.
I'm trading in my 2014 Chrysler T&C minivan.
It has less than 50k miles and great condition. I already had a dealer offer me $12k cash. I'm hoping for a little more on trade. So that's something.

Be sure to know and understand the pin weight of the trailer vs the payload of the truck...

 

[Thorvald]

Ah another one joining the 25G family. Love ours as well but holy **** it’s a heavy heavy heavy heavy heavy heavy heavy tongue weight beast compared to what I am used to. That nice heavy generator up front doesn’t help either lol.

Unless you can afford to buy two or more trucks, go straight to a 3500/350 now. Just ignore the 2500/250 segment. The price difference is usually almost zero (actually when I was shopping the 3500 was cheaper than the 2500’s, as the salesman pointed out the 2500’s are bought by the weekend warrior truck lifting mod crowd, so they sell way more of them). The 3500 on the lot was loaded and they could not sell it (truck kids didn’t think it was cool lol). No need for a dually unless you plan to go big fifth wheel one day. I use the 3500 SRW 6.4 box as a daily driver, since it’s the same size as regular pickups it’s not an issue.

One day you will want to tow the 25G with close to full tanks and will be happy to know your are still well within the door sticker for cargo and GCWR.

The 25G has practically zero storage and I mean zero storage… so you WILL be using your pickup bed for almost 99% of your stuff, so the cargo weight will be going up even more once loaded for camping. The front storage compartment is vertical… great for brooms… useless for 99% of camping items (chairs, tables, etc).

Don’t forget that the two euro chairs take up a good bit of space in the garage when travelling, we usually strap them down in the back corner behind the kitchen slide. You don’t want those moving around as it’s all LCI furniture and they don’t take abuse well. That eats up the one good place to store totes if you have the garage in use.

If you don’t plan to use the very top bunk very often, you can lower its “stop position” down a foot or so and get a nice loft up there to store items. Though I’d recommend the mod to add safety pins if you plan to load it up.

The garage also has basically zero storage, the tie downs are set up for bikes and atv’s/side by sides and having to move a bunch of junk out of the way every time you want to setup camp gets old REAL quick. So we keep our garage area clean except for a few storage totes that get used outside anyways.

—-

All that being said, nothing is better than setting up camp, dropping the rear door with patio (make sure you get the three season doors) and enjoying a nice open living space to the patio.

Cheers
Tim

 

[Lady_Violet_XXI]

As per the usual, nothing is ever, ever simple. At least not in my life. Once again, I'm going to give what I hope is some good info for other G-Series owners.
But first I'm going to say that in my opinion, all toy haulers should either be Fifth Wheels or very, very small trailers.
The G-Series GVWR STARTS (lightest/smallest - 21G) at 11,000 lbs. The tongue weight is over 1,000 lbs (if someone says it's under, they're talking about an empty trailer with NOTHING on ther hitch. No propane taanks, batteries) No generator, no options whatsoever. Every pound counts, right? The fact is, even the smallest toy hauler has significantly higher towing needs. Not just the size of the truck, but the hitch itself. I'm about to put a deposit on that 25G. So, I'm looking at trucks. I actually think it makes sense to put the cart before the horse when looking at a trailer that's so darn heavy. Because unless you were already hauling 15,000+ lbs with your truck, you're going to need an upgraded tow vehicle to be safe. And even if I was ready to take my chances, the weight distribution hitch (Equal-i-zer in my case) size demands a Class V hitch receiver. Yesterday, I honestly didn't know what that is.

It's a BIG FREAKIN hitch! A class V is used with construction equipment! If you're hauling around a Bobcat it's probably lighter than a 25G! So, my search for an acceptable tow vehicle just got more complicated. Either I find a big-a** truck with a big-a** Class V hitch, and pay big-a** $$$, or I find that truck and have a new hitch installed. Factory installed hitches are, according to the Net, usually Class IV on even one-ton trucks. One source said certain models are factory-equipped with Class V. Just try finding one.

So, a word to the wise. When people say pay attention to ALL of the tow numbers, please do so. Also pay attention to the thresholds for hitch classes, sizes and all that jazz. The learning curve is STEEP, especially for a novice. Learn from my mistakes.

Still searching for that perfect tow vehicle - and not ready to drop $80k.

 

[Lady_Violet_XXI]

I just want to add something. My comment that toy haulers should be 5th wheels. The only type of vehicle strong enough to pull a toy hauler TT is a pickup (a big one) in which case a 5th wheel is an option, with better towing and more space. The only advantage a TT has in this case is length of JUST the trailer. Many parks have that length limit. The smaller G-Series will fit those limits. That's the only thing I can think of. I suppose if your truck can't have a 5th wheel hitch installed that's another thing, but in that case is your truck ready to haul well over 10,000 lbs?

Does anyone else have thoughts on why a toy hauler TT is preferable, considering weight/towing requirements?

 

[Hoopy Frood]

Personally I would only have a 5th wheel toyhauler, of which I've owned one before the Momentum. IMO if you need a big truck anyway, get a 5th wheel and enjoy the increase in size, and lack of any towing drama that can happen with a bumper pull.

I don't know that your citing of length of JUST the trailer is relevant, since you have to figure in the length of the tongue. With a 5th wheel, what would be tongue length is usable space inside, since the bedroom sits over truck bed. About the only thing that a bumper pull gives you is the fact it turns with the truck and not inside the truck like a 5th wheel. IMO 5th wheel toyhaulers are much more forgiving of weight load distribution. Our 5th wheels handle the same whether we have the toys loaded or unloaded.

However, a large toyhauler gets into dually territory pretty quickly, IMO anyway.

 

[Lady_Violet_XXI]

Personally I would only have a 5th wheel toyhauler, of which I've owned one before the Momentum. IMO if you need a big truck anyway, get a 5th wheel and enjoy the increase in size, and lack of any towing drama that can happen with a bumper pull.

I don't know that your citing of length of JUST the trailer is relevant, since you have to figure in the length of the tongue. With a 5th wheel, what would be tongue length is usable space inside, since the bedroom sits over truck bed. About the only thing that a bumper pull gives you is the fact it turns with the truck and not inside the truck like a 5th wheel. IMO 5th wheel toyhaulers are much more forgiving of weight load distribution. Our 5th wheels handle the same whether we have the toys loaded or unloaded.

However, a large toyhauler gets into dually territory pretty quickly, IMO anyway.

Sorry, I wasn't clear. When I mentioned the length of the trailer by itself, I was referring to the size limits a lot of the national parks and rv resorts etc have in place. What you said is true, from the front bumper of your truck to the rear bumper of your trailer, a TT hitch takes up about 6 feet of length. So to your point, the combined length of a 40' FW and your truck is about the same as a 36' TT with the same truck. More space in a FW etc. But a 40' FW would be over the size limit for more parks. That's what I meant about TT length advantage, but I'm not certain if that's a dealbreaker for people who choose toy haulers.
If that makes any sense at all.

 

[Riverbug]

As per the usual, nothing is ever, ever simple. At least not in my life. Once again, I'm going to give what I hope is some good info for other G-Series owners.
But first I'm going to say that in my opinion, all toy haulers should either be Fifth Wheels or very, very small trailers.
The G-Series GVWR STARTS (lightest/smallest - 21G) at 11,000 lbs. The tongue weight is over 1,000 lbs (if someone says it's under, they're talking about an empty trailer with NOTHING on ther hitch. No propane taanks, batteries) No generator, no options whatsoever. Every pound counts, right? The fact is, even the smallest toy hauler has significantly higher towing needs. Not just the size of the truck, but the hitch itself. I'm about to put a deposit on that 25G. So, I'm looking at trucks. I actually think it makes sense to put the cart before the horse when looking at a trailer that's so darn heavy. Because unless you were already hauling 15,000+ lbs with your truck, you're going to need an upgraded tow vehicle to be safe. And even if I was ready to take my chances, the weight distribution hitch (Equal-i-zer in my case) size demands a Class V hitch receiver. Yesterday, I honestly didn't know what that is.

It's a BIG FREAKIN hitch! A class V is used with construction equipment! If you're hauling around a Bobcat it's probably lighter than a 25G! So, my search for an acceptable tow vehicle just got more complicated. Either I find a big-a** truck with a big-a** Class V hitch, and pay big-a** $$$, or I find that truck and have a new hitch installed. Factory installed hitches are, according to the Net, usually Class IV on even one-ton trucks. One source said certain models are factory-equipped with Class V. Just try finding one.

So, a word to the wise. When people say pay attention to ALL of the tow numbers, please do so. Also pay attention to the thresholds for hitch classes, sizes and all that jazz. The learning curve is STEEP, especially for a novice. Learn from my mistakes.

Still searching for that perfect tow vehicle - and not ready to drop $80k.

I'm happy that you are taking the time to learn about these things before you purchase the trailer and/or truck. As you and I shared previously, my wife and I were in the same boat. I had no idea how much the tow ratings had increased since we purchased our 2004 F150 new in 2004. I also got sidetracked by the sales staff when I went in to place an order on a F250 in 2021 and they convinced me that an F150 had plenty of tow capacity for the weight of the trailer we had at the time. I got so jazzed about the tow rating and the new features of a new F150 that we went ahead and ordered the model we wanted, which was the Powerboost (perfect for camping right?). Over the next several weeks I came back around to the reality that even though the tow rating wasn't an issue, the Cargo Carrying Capacity (Payload) would be simply too close for comfort. The problem is, you have to know the CCC of the specific vehicle you will own as it changes (sometimes significantly) based on the options and other additions. Because there were no Powerboost models anywhere on the lots at the time and the sales people most often don't really understand the Payload vs tow rating issues, I spent a lot of time trying to find out what Powerboost owners were seeing on their door tags, and there didn't seem to be a lot of them out there. In the end, we cancelled the order.

I went back to looking for the F250 I wanted. In the end decided on an F350 because the price was only $1,000 higher than the 250, but in MN the annual registration fee is $140 on a 350 vs $750 on 250. Again, payloads differ on each truck but the F150 Powerboost I ordered would have come in at 1,300-1,400lbs. The loaded tongue weight of the 22MLE we had at the time came in at 850#. Add people, extra water for boondocking, tools, generator, etc., and we were easily going to eat that up. The F350 we have now has a hitch rating of 2,100# and payload of 3,566. After adding the truck cap and all the stuff in the bed, we don't have to worry about payload at this point, even with the new trailer's higher tongue weight.

All this to just say that the emphasis on CCC should be the first thing you check on whatever tow vehicle you look at. If CCC doesn't work, none of the other numbers matter. These days, it's much more likely CCC is going to be the issue before any tow ratings become a concern. Happy shopping!

 

[jeririgged223]

Welcome. I’ve bought new and I’ve bought used at various points in my camping life. If you can swing new go for it. Who wants someone else’s problems?

What is the tow vehicle? Please don’t say some half ton truck.

I've had one new rig and spent a lot of time getting warranty work done....slowly. Dealers in my area are booking out as far as 7 months for warranty repairs so that's something to ask around about and consider.

My last two rigs were 2 years old when I bought them, in immaculate shape, little or no miles, little use and had all the bugs worked out by the time I bought them. I spent no time getting repair work done (unless it was my own doing). So there's pros and cons to both.

Tow vehicle is anything that provides the right CARGO Wt rating or PIN WEIGHT (fully loaded, truck, trailer, fuel, gear, people, everything that goes in or on the truck) and TOW CAPACITY. They are two very different things and many people dont know that when they start and they end up overloaded on the kingpin.

Welcome to the club.....I'm also a single (widowed) gal that loves to camp, loves the outdoors, and enjoys doing it with my 2 dogs. It's a good time.

 

[rpmclean51]

We bought a 25G because they are big enough but at 31’ not too long.

I am disappointed at the quality of all mainstream RV’s including Grand Design. They are all junky.

We had a Chevrolet 6 Litre gas and have upgraded to a 2011 RAM 2500 4x4 Megacab diesel. It is definitely an order of magnitude better than the Chevy. The Chevy really struggled climbing hills that the RAM just loafs over. AND, the diesel gets much better fuel mileage.

 

[[email protected]]

We own a 2020 25G. We love it! We tow it with a Ford F-250 Diesel. Previously towed with a 3/4 ton gas engine. Would NEVER go back to gas!

 

[mkevinmarshsr]

We are personally a big fan of buying used. Our last 2 campers have been practically brand new (even smelled new). There's a lot of people who end up selling due to health issues or other reasons. Our last purchase we saved $20k on by buying used. We decide on a model or two and sit back and watch RV Trader. When we see one at the price we want we make a move. The last time it took approx 4 to 6 months to find but we weren't in a hurry as we still had our other camper. But if you find a good deal on new why not go for it. Good luck with whatever you decide.

 

[hjmichael]

Go Big or Go Home ..... Just kidding, but F450 is the best TV in my mind, next up is a Class 6 but that 200k new, but a 5th wheel toy hauler is way stable, we love ours. If your buying a new truck for the 25g don't skimp, 2 things, 1 you can never have too much truck 2 if you decide you want a trailer bigger than the 25g in a year then at least you don't have to get a new truck as well, if you are comfortable driving a dually I would say start there, if not a 1 ton srw.
Best of luck and welcome to the world of RV's

 

[KenSher]

Welcome and we hope you do get the GDRV 5th Toyhauler that fits your lifestyle the best!
We only purchased used 1 time, a 19ft travel travel (TT) 1999.
FROM that point on Brand New RVs. We wouldn't do it any other way.
GrandDesign is absolutely FABULOUS. Our experience have been extremely successful. 2019 381M Toyhauler for our needs...Side-by-side. We Boondock mostly. Large tanks were a must with a fueling station.
Remember to THINK ABOUT the main way you will be living - RV Parks, Boondocking or Both?
We wish you an Amazing New Chapter in your life!
Be sure to get a heavy duty truck (used is ok - low mileage if possible.)
Enjoy Life!