OK, something is wrong

Me too!

Trying to de-winterize. Running city water through the Nautilus. I have water at the kitchen sink (hot and cold) and water at the toilet. Nothing at the bathroom sink or shower. Putting water in the fresh water tank and using the pump results in the same outcome.

No visible leaks under the trailer. Further, when I was using the city water connection, with the bathroom faucets open, I could not feel anything going through the hose into the Nautilus, which would suggest no leaks.


Any ideas?

We just had the same thing happen to us a couple days ago water coming out of all faucets except the bathroom sink. It took almost a day for the water to start coming out as expected. Only thing i can think of was a air lock situation cause we had no leakage either. So I would suggest keep trying the faucet and see it corrects itself.
 
Wouldn't that depend on which type of water heater you have? On my tankless water heater, I blow all the water out as part of my winterization and then pump in the pink stuff.

A tankless water heater doesn't build up scale & sediment like a traditional water heater.
 
On the shower, check the head to see if it has a shut of lever like mine has on my 22mle. If so, it may be just slid in the off position.
 
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A tankless water heater doesn't build up scale & sediment like a traditional water heater.

On our tankless at home (which we don't care for) it is suggested in the paperwork to descale on a regular basis , why would the smaller tankless in an RV be any different? Hard water can cause issues in either.
 
[MENTION=23734]hartcentr[/MENTION]
For what it's worth you shouldn't be blowing compressed air through the water heater. It should be in bypass when you blow out the lines.

That would be great if it had one. The water heater can be visualized from the inside by pulling out the bottom drawer in the bedroom. Lots of blue and red PEX lines in the area, nothing resembling a bypass valve or bypass valve handle. I've used the bypass valve in previously owned RV's, and I do know what they look like.

Not a word in the owners manual about one either.

I just won't be using compressed air to winterize again. This was the first time I had done it and it is easier, cheaper, and quicker, but in the case of this trailer, not worth it.
 
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We just had the same thing happen to us a couple days ago water coming out of all faucets except the bathroom sink. It took almost a day for the water to start coming out as expected. Only thing i can think of was a air lock situation cause we had no leakage either. So I would suggest keep trying the faucet and see it corrects itself.

Theoretically, that could have been the issue, I don't know that it had debris in it, I just assumed as such. However, once I disconnected the lines from it any air lock would have dissipated. I did not try reconnecting the lines to the original faucet, I just replaced it. By then I had broken the cheap plastic aerator trying to get it off so the faucet was toast anyway.

Interesting concept though.
 
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If you have a water flow meter, the kind that attaches either at the city water hose spicket or even where the water line goes into the trailer, you could make sure that all the faucets are turned OFF, then turn the city water supply back on and see if the meter is registering any water flow at all. If it is, you have a leak somewhere and need to find it quickly AND turn the city water back off.

Another way to check for leaks if you don't have a water flow meter is to put some water in the fresh water tank and start the pump. If the pump starts up and then stops, no leak. If the pump keeps running, there most likely is a leak. If there is any air in the lines, the pump will run for a while but will eventually stop. If the pump stops and a bit later starts up again, you probably have a very small leak.

All this assumes you have a good pump.
 
On our tankless at home (which we don't care for) it is suggested in the paperwork to descale on a regular basis , why would the smaller tankless in an RV be any different? Hard water can cause issues in either.

Lippert has a couple of videos that discuss the descaling procedure and though I have not been able to find it I assume there is a recommended descaling schedule.
 

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