One control 7" touhscreen failed

huntindog

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2009
Messages
2,549
My touchscreen defecated the bed.
The screen shows "Unfortuneantly one control has stopped working"

I called Lippert and they walked me thru trouble shooting it,
The bold is because ot the price. $701.00!!!
What a ripoff.I hate this system. When it works it constantly needs rebooted. I spend so much time waiting for it to connect, just so I can turn on a light etc.

Other than venting here, I guess I am looking to see if anyone has found a better solution or workarounds that are more reasonably priced
 
My touchscreen defecated the bed.
The screen shows "Unfortuneantly one control has stopped working"

I called Lippert and they walked me thru trouble shooting it,
The bold is because ot the price. $701.00!!!
What a ripoff.I hate this system. When it works it constantly needs rebooted. I spend so much time waiting for it to connect, just so I can turn on a light etc.

Other than venting here, I guess I am looking to see if anyone has found a better solution or workarounds that are more reasonably priced

It seems that I saw on one of the FB pages a year of so ago, that someone else had the same issue and bought something to replace the Lippert unit with. I know that's not much help, and I have no idea where exactly I saw it....but as far as I can tell it's basically an android operated tablet, but with the ability to do the Can bus communication.

It's probably too late now, but did you ever read the article that I wrote about how to backup the tablet configuration and programming......just in case?
 
It seems that I saw on one of the FB pages a year of so ago, that someone else had the same issue and bought something to replace the Lippert unit with. I know that's not much help, and I have no idea where exactly I saw it....but as far as I can tell it's basically an android operated tablet, but with the ability to do the Can bus communication.

It's probably too late now, but did you ever read the article that I wrote about how to backup the tablet configuration and programming......just in case?

No I diid not see that.
I did just read of a person that had a loose connection under the stairs where the heart of the system is. He said when he had a problem he would just wiggle those wires and that would fix it. Tomorrow morning before it gets hot, I am going to take a look there.
If that fails, I guess I will just have make a donation to LCI. If the phone app was more reliable, I would just not fix it and use them...:frown:
 
No I diid not see that.
I did just read of a person that had a loose connection under the stairs where the heart of the system is. He said when he had a problem he would just wiggle those wires and that would fix it. Tomorrow morning before it gets hot, I am going to take a look there.
If that fails, I guess I will just have make a donation to LCI. If the phone app was more reliable, I would just not fix it and use them...:frown:

That's always a good idea to check all the connections involving the One control Panel. There is a 12VDC Pos. and Neg going to the backside of it...make sure that the connections are tight/good there, as well on the other end of the wire where they get the 12VDC from. Then check the Canbus wires and connections...from the 7" tablet all the way to where they connect at the "brain"....you never know what you may find. These campers go down the road bouncing around and that is the perfect storm for loose connections.

BTW....here is a link to that article that I wrote...it's in the Reference section....

https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/showthread.php/52916-One-Control-Configuration-Backup-File

On my trailer, the phone app for One Control is always faster than the the tablet....modern Android phone vs. a tablet with likely a much, much older version of Android OS.
 
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If it really is the One Control LCD screen, maybe you could ask it the One Control analog panel could be installed in place of it? Ours has the panel with buttons; no LCD. Then we have the phone app; which isn't working for me at the moment. I like the buttons because they work regardless of the phone app. Not sure if it is swappable, but perhaps an option...
 
LCI One Control/ Compass Connect will not be in the next RV I purchase! An analog panel with $5 switches that lasts beats a temperamental $700 LCD screen.
 
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LCI One Control/ Compass Connect will not be in the next RV I purchase! An analog panel with $5 switches that lasts beats a temperamental $700 LCD screen.

I agree, but it seems this is the direction the industry is going.
On top of that is tankless water heaters and electric only fridges.
This makes for a less capable RV for boondocking.
I am thinking that my present RV will be my last, unless some of theses changes are reversed...And that is not likely
 

Other than venting here, I guess I am looking to see if anyone has found a better solution or workarounds that are more reasonably priced

Sorry for your troubles. I'm 100% with you, this system is terrible. I would pay that much for something else if it was proven and worked well. Hard to replace like for like and end up in the same boat.

Oldcow
 
UPDATE
I bought a new one. It is installed and working. The items are laid out a lot different, but we will get used to it.
It appears to be missing some of the features the old one had. The leveling function for one....Or possibly I just havn't found it yet.
I do think it is faster than the old one. The sting of the price is already fading.
 
UPDATE
I bought a new one. It is installed and working. The items are laid out a lot different, but we will get used to it.
It appears to be missing some of the features the old one had. The leveling function for one....Or possibly I just havn't found it yet.
I do think it is faster than the old one. The sting of the price is already fading.

My biggest complaint about our current one is the lack of sensitivity with the touch pad. I find myself pounding on it after a few tries... Is the new one better?

Oldcow
 
So I'm confused - no physical switches? I have a one-control LCD touch panel, BT to connect the app, and physical switches on the monitor panel for everything all located as I walk in the door. I rarely ever use the LCD touch panel. The only time I've used the touch panel is to check level and set zero point if required but I can do that in the app as well.
 
So I'm confused - no physical switches? I have a one-control LCD touch panel, BT to connect the app, and physical switches on the monitor panel for everything all located as I walk in the door. I rarely ever use the LCD touch panel. The only time I've used the touch panel is to check level and set zero point if required but I can do that in the app as well.

The app most certainly works better for me but the connection is not always stable. And when inside I would still prefer to use panel.

Oldcow
 
My biggest complaint about our current one is the lack of sensitivity with the touch pad. I find myself pounding on it after a few tries... Is the new one better?

Oldcow

Yes. It is faster too. Hopefully it lasts.
One thing that could be a concern: In talking to Lippert, he saiid that my particular model was only used for part of one year. That could mean it would be hard to get as time goes by.
 
The app most certainly works better for me but the connection is not always stable. And when inside I would still prefer to use panel.

Oldcow

Guess that's what is confusing me. I don't need the panel or the app with one exception - setting zero point. Every light, slide, water heater, tank heater, generator, leveling jacks have physical switches. The touch screen and app are redundant to the physical switches which I nearly always use. I find the app much easier but not as fast. It also allows me to be outside when manually leveling. Did I get a one-off? My jack control panel (separate and in the pass thru) is also one that was only used for a short period of time.
 
So I'm confused - no physical switches? I have a one-control LCD touch panel, BT to connect the app, and physical switches on the monitor panel for everything all located as I walk in the door. I rarely ever use the LCD touch panel. The only time I've used the touch panel is to check level and set zero point if required but I can do that in the app as well.

I have manual switches for some things and some of those can also be activated by One Control. the generator,manual leveling air conditioners, and the light shows are all One control only. It does have some benefits. When I leave my dogs in the RV, I can program the generator to start, and run the ACs if it gets to hot, or the heater if too cold. It can also start the generator when the batteries get low. When under tow, I can check the interior temp on my phone, and start the gen, ACs without stopping the Rig. We do this a lot whe traveling home to Phoenix.
 
I have manual switches for some things and some of those can also be activated by One Control. the generator,manual leveling air conditioners, and the light shows are all One control only. It does have some benefits. When I leave my dogs in the RV, I can program the generator to start, and run the ACs if it gets to hot, or the heater if too cold. It can also start the generator when the batteries get low. When under tow, I can check the interior temp on my phone, and start the gen, ACs without stopping the Rig. We do this a lot whe traveling home to Phoenix.

I guess I'm only partially 'automated' then but for our use, that's ok - I don't have the solar or battery bank to support running ACs while en route though in triple digits, that would have been nice. My one-control doesn't see the genset, furnace, ACs, or TireLinc anymore since that was replaced.
 
My Momentum had almost everything on the One Control. A couple of exceptions was the overhead lights in the kitchen/dining area (OC and a Switch), the main slides in that same area (OC and switch) Auto level (OC and the outside control station). There are a couple more things like the bedroom OH light that is strictly a switch and no OC....oh, and bedroom slide (OC and a Switch). The lighting in the overhead of each slide was OC, the lights over the kitchen sink and the TV hutch area (OC), water heater, outside porch light, flood light, accent lights, Awning lights, Front cap light, and the step lights were all just OC.

I decided to add switches for the ones that I used frequently and ended up putting in 6 more switches to be able to NOT use the OC if I didn't want to. I also broke out the overhead lighting for the two living room/kitchen slides so that they could be turned on/off separately. Those two are NOT on the OC but the other six switches that I added are also available from OC. It was kind of involved getting all of that done, but I like it and it's certainly more convenient.

Three wireless switches here, just as you walk in the front door
PXL_20210326_201253837.jpg

And three more wireless switches here on the right hand side as you are going out the front door...
PXL_20210326_201317094.jpg

Those 6 wireless transmitters operate a series of wireless receivers, and the contacts of the wireless receivers are wired into the One Control Lighting module. Here's a pic of the receivers and some of the wiring involved. Those receivers are mounted on the underside of one of the steps going up to the bedroom, and are almost directly above the One Control Lighting control module. Every one of those switches are tied into the One Control module, so whatever they control, can be controlled by the switches themselves or on the One Control panel or from the phone app
PXL_20210326_201152184.jpg

These two switches are also wireless transmitters, and control a pair of wireless receivers. These are what I used to be able to allow the overhead lighting in each slide to be controlled separately instead of coming on when the rest of the overhead lights in the dining room/kitchen came on. It was so bright in there that Rip Van Winkle wouldn't have been able to sleep. Now I can turn on just the curbside slide OH lights, or the street side slide overhead lights, or both if I want to. It's really nice if we are watching TV in the evening. The main overhead lights can be off, as well as the streetside slide overhead lights off, and just have the overhead lights in the curbside slide on. Here are those two switches, and their receivers are also mounted down very close to the One Control lighting module....
PXL_20220805_184354192.MP.jpg
PXL_20220805_184405825.jpg
 
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My Momentum had almost everything on the One Control. A couple of exceptions was the overhead lights in the kitchen/dining area (OC and a Switch), the main slides in that same area (OC and switch) Auto level (OC and the outside control station). There are a couple more things like the bedroom OH light that is strictly a switch and no OC....oh, and bedroom slide (OC and a Switch). The lighting in the overhead of each slide was OC, the lights over the kitchen sink and the TV hutch area (OC), water heater, outside porch light, flood light, accent lights, Awning lights, Front cap light, and the step lights were all just OC.

I decided to add switches for the ones that I used frequently and ended up putting in 6 more switches to be able to NOT use the OC if I didn't want to. I also broke out the overhead lighting for the two living room/kitchen slides so that they could be turned on/off separately. Those two are NOT on the OC but the other six switches that I added are also available from OC. It was kind of involved getting all of that done, but I like it and it's certainly more convenient.

I guess I almost feel lucky except for the incredible number of manual light switches - two under the cabinet between stove and refrig, eight under the coffee bar cabinet, one at the door for all overhead pucks in main living area, one for the bedroom (but reading and closet lights are push button), flood light, porch light, awning light, front cap light, push button on the reading lights each end of sofa and that's just the lights. The only lights that One control will turn on are awning, bedroom, ceiling, and kitchen accent. What could go wrong;)
Have the same 7" panel, but also the monitor panel and switches across the 'hall' - slides, awnings, tank heaters, water pump, water heater (gas and electric).
 
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Guess that's what is confusing me. I don't need the panel or the app with one exception - setting zero point. Every light, slide, water heater, tank heater, generator, leveling jacks have physical switches. The touch screen and app are redundant to the physical switches which I nearly always use. I find the app much easier but not as fast. It also allows me to be outside when manually leveling. Did I get a one-off? My jack control panel (separate and in the pass thru) is also one that was only used for a short period of time.

The trailer is new to me this spring and honestly I have never taken notice of what all is available with switches, but the ones I would use are under the cupboard which I think is silly. If all the switches were in one place that was convenient sure I would use them. Now I have to go see what I can and cannot do manually...

Oldcow
 
The trailer is new to me this spring and honestly I have never taken notice of what all is available with switches, but the ones I would use are under the cupboard which I think is silly. If all the switches were in one place that was convenient sure I would use them. Now I have to go see what I can and cannot do manually...

Oldcow

33 years in our house and DW still doesn't know which switches turn which lights on. I guess I'm the same after 2 years with the RV.
 

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