Plumbing Issue

[Justaguy]

Can anyone advise why or how water would get into the FW tank when the valves at the center are set for using city water? We have not used the FW tanks and have only been at full hook up sites.

We were pulling the rig home when I felt like the back end was heavy for some reason. (When we first got the rig I checked the valve on our first night hooked up and water came out. I thought it was left over from the factory) At the nearest rest stop I opened up the FW gate valve and water drained out...the FW tank was full! I rechecked all the Kant Leak valves at the center and all were correct! What gives?

There was one point this Winter when I was draining the antifreeze and getting ready to hook up at the park, I turned on the park water and ran clean water through all the lines. I then opened the hot water pressure relief valve to make sure the WH was full prior to turning it on and the water was mixed with the pink stuff and it foamed as it came out. Again, checked the valves and they were in the correct position from when I winterized and the bypass switch was set correctly.

 

[Dave and Monica]

I'd suspect that the Kant Leak valve is leaking by and filling the tank...I don't think that there's any check valve there to prevent that.

As far a pink stuff in the WH, I had the same thing when I de-winterized. I switched the WH bypass off before I completely flushed all the waterlines so some AF got in the water heater.

Dave

 

[Justaguy]

Thanks Dave. I can't believe I haven't noticed it before. Looks like I am going to have to take it in for warranty work.

 

[Julie n Kevin]

This happened to us last season. A o-ring in the valve gets pinched and fails. I think it happened when I turned the valve while still under city water pressure. I make sure to bleed off all pressure in water lines when turning the valves. GD sent me a new assembly. It was fairly easy to replace.

 

[Justaguy]

Thanks Kevin...makes sense.

This happened to us last season. A o-ring in the valve gets pinched and fails. I think it happened when I turned the valve while still under city water pressure. I make sure to bleed off all pressure in water lines when turning the valves. GD sent me a new assembly. It was fairly easy to replace.

 

[LA5ver]

i just posted the same question to the Reflection Plumbing Forum. Our Kant Leak valve was replaced by the dealer last week because of O-Ring problems. I hate to have to take it back again just to have the valve replaced again. It looks like there could be two different failure modes. One, with the Kant Leak valve leaking around the O-Rings. and Two with the Kant-Leak value in the City Water position and water leaking by the FW Tank Fill Valve possible due to debris in the valve. Does anyone have any ideas about how to check to see which valve could be failing?

 

[Cate&Rob]

When you guys talk about "replacing the Kant Leak valve" . . . I assume you are talking about replacing the internal cartridge, not disconnecting all the hoses in the back and replacing the whole assembly ?

There is a certain irony in all this discussion about how to solve the leaks in a product called Kant Leak

Rob

 

[offtohavasu]

When you guys talk about "replacing the Kant Leak valve" . . . I assume you are talking about replacing the internal cartridge, not disconnecting all the hoses in the back and replacing the whole assembly ?

There is a certain irony in all this discussion about how to solve the leaks in a product called Kant Leak

Rob

I guess technically it's not leaking, but it Kant Divert??

 

[Canyonlight]

Havasu--Maybe some of Dave's "throat Viagra" will straighten out the pipes

Dan

 

[LA5ver]

In my case, the valve assembly was cracked in addition to the O-Ring problem. I have also read on another forum that a problem with the water pump can allow the city water to flow back through the pump to the FW tank. I put a call into GD service yesterday and hope to hear back from them today.

 

[Dave and Monica]

I have also read on another forum that a problem with the water pump can allow the city water to flow back through the pump to the FW tank.

It's normal on FW gravity fill to have a check valve on the sunction side of the pump to prevent filling of the FW tank when on city water. That's not the case aith ours as we can fill the FW tank using the pump and drawing from a jerry can.

Dave

 

[offtohavasu]

Havasu--Maybe some of Dave's "throat Viagra" will straighten out the pipes

Dan

Too funny Dan!

 

[Abqscott]

Knock on wood mine has not leaked yet or refused to divert, but if it does I Kant think of a better reason not to build a full port bypass with real ball valves that will last a very long time instead of fooling with this valve.

 

[Cate&Rob]

I like the way you are thinking, Scott.

I think this KantLeak valve is a major flow restriction to the entire water system.
If I put a regular spray nozzle directly on the hose that feeds the RV, I get far more volume than anywhere in the rig.
Pressure is regulated to 40 psi in both situations.

Rob

 

[gr8daggett]

Scott,
You build'em and I'll buy one !!

 

[LA5ver]

I sent JD an e-mail on Tuesday regarding the problem with the leak into the Fresh Water tank. On Friday, I got a complete KantLeak assembly in the mail. I finally had a chance to install it yesterday. I checked the Fresh Water tank this morning and it was empty. I tried the valve in all 4 positions just to make sure there were no leaks. Everything looks good. The only installation issue I had was that ther was no hole for the underslide light switch in the mounting plate. Luckily, I had a hole saw that was the right size. Thanks JD and GD customer service for the quick response.

 

[Justaguy]

Thanks! I guess I will do the same.