Pocket door 31MB

Rgkeaney

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2020
Posts
205
Hi folks. Just got home with my 2020 31MB...our first RV from Grand Design. Drove it home to Colorado from Kansas. I fully expect to have issues, this is my 4th camping trailer over the years. And I plan to fix what I can as I have learned not to trust the ability of these dealer service departments. I trust my fixes.

When I got home, I found that the pocket door to the mid bunk (the door that is build into the wall) was sagging when the door is completely open and secured. The door is meant to be secured in the full open position when traveling. Does anyone know how that track is attached to the frame INSIDE the wall? I ask because i was on etrailer and it appears that they sell tracks with screws available in the open part but then they dont actually screw into the frame from inside the wall. Does any of that make sense

In essence, what I think happened is that the highway bounding bent the track on the INSIDE of the wall, resulting in the sagging door when fully opened. Otherwise, the screws inside the wall that hold up the track pulled away from the top frame.

I have no idea how to get to that track inside the wall without actually removing the paneling. However, if the pocket rail is truly just held up by the screws which I can get to from the opening, then I can replace the bent/broken track myself.

Hope that makes sense. Does anyone know for sure how that track is attached to the top frame of the pocket door?


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The screws came out of the track on the bathroom door on our 31MB as well. I can get the door off but I'm not able to get my arm and tool inside the wall to replace screws. Any help on these issues is greatly appreciated.
 
The screws came out of the track on the bathroom door on our 31MB as well. I can get the door off but I'm not able to get my arm and tool inside the wall to replace screws. Any help on these issues is greatly appreciated.

Only thing I can think of is having to remove some part of the wall paneling to access the screws.
I tracked down the PNs for 2020 31MB and appears the tracks are still based on www.johnsonhardware.com 1500 track as my 2015's pocket door is.

2020 Reflection 31MB
https://www.granddesignrv.com/owner-support/parts/detail/2056
660043 : TRACK-POCKET DOOR TRACK-48"

https://www.granddesignrv.com/owner-support/parts/detail/2057
660044 : TRACK-POCKET DOOR ROLLERS
Image is tagged: PDH-H1020

PDH-H1020 Pocket Door Hardware Hanger 1020 With 3/4 Inch Diameter Wheels
https://johnsonhardware.com/2-x-4-wall-pocket-door-frames
https://johnsonhardware.com/Content/Images/uploaded/Documentation/1500CatPage.pdf
http://www.rvlocksandmore.com/PDH-H1020
http://www.gld1.com/Global-Sourcing...eas-Manufacturing-Catalog/Bumpers_2/PDH-H1020

Model: PDH-T111-48-AL Pocket Door Hardware Track 111 48 Inch Aluminum
http://www.gld1.com/Global-Sourcing...-Manufacturing-Catalog/Track_2/PDH-T111-48-AL
The Rollers used with this track are our PDH-H1020

Pocket Door Track DSCF1562.jpg
 
Only thing I can think of is having to remove some part of the wall paneling to access the screws.
I tracked down the PNs for 2020 31MB and appears the tracks are still based on www.johnsonhardware.com 1500 track as my 2015's pocket door is.

2020 Reflection 31MB
https://www.granddesignrv.com/owner-support/parts/detail/2056
660043 : TRACK-POCKET DOOR TRACK-48"

https://www.granddesignrv.com/owner-support/parts/detail/2057
660044 : TRACK-POCKET DOOR ROLLERS
Image is tagged: PDH-H1020

PDH-H1020 Pocket Door Hardware Hanger 1020 With 3/4 Inch Diameter Wheels
https://johnsonhardware.com/2-x-4-wall-pocket-door-frames
https://johnsonhardware.com/Content/Images/uploaded/Documentation/1500CatPage.pdf
http://www.rvlocksandmore.com/PDH-H1020
http://www.gld1.com/Global-Sourcing...eas-Manufacturing-Catalog/Bumpers_2/PDH-H1020

Model: PDH-T111-48-AL Pocket Door Hardware Track 111 48 Inch Aluminum
http://www.gld1.com/Global-Sourcing...-Manufacturing-Catalog/Track_2/PDH-T111-48-AL
The Rollers used with this track are our PDH-H1020

View attachment 27867

Having to remove part of the wall is my fear. I cannot imaging the local service department being able to do this and do it well without screwing up the wall. I may not have an option since this will clearly be warranty work. Thanks for your insight.
 
Thanks for the help and all the info. I just need to figure out how to get the last two screws into the track in such a tight area. I borrowed a small drill / driver and going to ask someone with smaller arms than I have to do the work. I’ll let you know how it goes.
 
Thanks for the help and all the info. I just need to figure out how to get the last two screws into the track in such a tight area. I borrowed a small drill / driver and going to ask someone with smaller arms than I have to do the work. I’ll let you know how it goes.

I know I can just get my hand in a ways into the pocket door opening. Checked the wife's slender arm, I've only got an inch or two longer reach than her's.
I wonder if my M12 right angle drill would fit in, it's ~2" wide and would give a bit more reach.
 
Gotter done. There were no screws ever put in the two rail holes furthest inside the pocket. The screw in the third hole fell out. I ended up installing the thickest screws I could fit in the holes I could reach in the track. I couldn’t reach the furthest hole in so I got a thick self tapping screw and put in as far as I could reach. (Sorry I don’t have screw sizes). The door hangs perfect and the track won’t drop again. It’s tight work but can be done by spreading the walls apart. Someone there to spread the walls while you put screws in really helps. Try before cutting the walls!!!!
 
Gotter done. There were no screws ever put in the two rail holes furthest inside the pocket. The screw in the third hole fell out. I ended up installing the thickest screws I could fit in the holes I could reach in the track. I couldn’t reach the furthest hole in so I got a thick self tapping screw and put in as far as I could reach. (Sorry I don’t have screw sizes). The door hangs perfect and the track won’t drop again. It’s tight work but can be done by spreading the walls apart. Someone there to spread the walls while you put screws in really helps. Try before cutting the walls!!!!

Did you use the same rail? Was it bent but your self tapping screws allowed you to get it pulled back flush?


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Yes I did get it flush. The rail was pulled down but not actually bent. Bowed would be more accurate. I was able to get one screw into the hole second from the end of the rail and the self tapping screw as close to the end as I could. The mount holding the weight of the door doesn’t go to the end of the rail anyway. It’s about 4” to 6” in. My concern was roller clearance under the screw heads. No problem there.
 
yep, been there, done that. The bathroom pocket door on my 31MB sagged. Furtherest screw in had stripped. Replaced with a bigger screw. As Lloyd described, you can bend those flimsy walls outward at the opening to get more of your arm in to fix the screw. I did it by myself, but it's better to have help.

Ken
 
Yes I did get it flush. The rail was pulled down but not actually bent. Bowed would be more accurate. I was able to get one screw into the hole second from the end of the rail and the self tapping screw as close to the end as I could. The mount holding the weight of the door doesn’t go to the end of the rail anyway. It’s about 4” to 6” in. My concern was roller clearance under the screw heads. No problem there.

Well that was a pain but got it fixed. Had to go in through the control panel housing. Removed it and had just enough room to get a 90 degree driver and throw a self tapping screw in and pull it all up. That was a pain.


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The track fell off on my 379fl pocket door. I was able to re-attach using two 18" extensions on my drill/driver with self tapping screw taped to the bit. Got 2 in that way and it's been good for a couple years.

Safe Travels.

Jim
 
How did you go about removing and reinstalling the door?

Which door came detached? Mine was the one immediately in front of the main rv door entrance.

The door didn’t come off the rail. But rather the rail came disconnected from the header all the way back inside the wall.

If this is your issue, I unhooked the door from the two sliders (YouTube that as it’s easy once you release the clips).

Then remove the door completely.

I then removed the control panel on the wall where your slide switches are. Once that is removed, you can actually just barely reach the header for the pocket door inside the wall. I bought a dewalt 90 degree angle drive (this one. https://www.homedepot.com/p/308436444)

I used it to get a self tapping screw into the most inner part of the rail, then into the wood header. I put the control panel back up.

I then had my tall/slender son take the same drill and angle drive to put a second self tapping screw into the railing as far in as he could reach from the door side. He has long arms which helped.

Then reinstalled the door.


Lots of lingo here that probably isn’t very descriptive. My apologies. If you want to private message me I may be able to help. Could even FaceTime if needed to try and help.


+++++++++++++++++++
2016 Ram 2500 Cummins
Andersen ultimate
2020 GD 31MB
Champion dual fuel 3500 generator
Steadyfast stabilizers
Dinosaur electronics ignitor board
MicroAir Easy-Start
 
To remove the pocket door: at the top of the door opening (inside or outside of opening), remove two screws holding on the wood trim strip. This will give you access to the roller track. Close the door and observe the two roller trolleys: at the top, just under the rail, there will be a rotating clamp lever that will release the stud mounted to the door (refer to the manufacturer pics of the parts referenced earlier in this thread). Move the trolley either way to release the door and do the same for the other trolley. You may need some help, because the door is surprisingly heavy. Remove the door and you can inspect the rail. It appears that the installer is not careful when driving in the farthermost screw in the rail. This allows the rail to sag downward when the door is fully retracted back into the wall. You can access that screw by having someone pull the two walls apart at the opening to give more clearance for your arm. Luckily, the flimsy walls are easy to bend without breaking.
You can determine if you have this problem by looking at the leading edge of the pocket door when it is fully open. The bottom edge will be sticking out further from the opening than the top. If you can easily push the bottom edge back in, your rail is sagging.

Ken
 
No trim removal is necessary.


+++++++++++++++++++
2016 Ram 2500 Cummins
Andersen ultimate
2020 GD 31MB
Champion dual fuel 3500 generator
Steadyfast stabilizers
Dinosaur electronics ignitor board
MicroAir Easy-Start
 
Well, technically, you don't have to remove the trim piece. But, it makes it a lot easier to access the wheel trolley and the clamp with your fingers if the trim is removed. FWIW.

Ken
 
I have a 2023 230mks and we just got back from a trip and found that we have the same issue. The track pulled out of the header and the door sticks out at the bottom when fully open. No control panel to access the inside will have to see if I can remove the door and get at it that way. Don't want the dealer to do it as it is just out of warranty and the last time I took it in they had it for over 8 months and did not fix all the problems. So I still have to take it back for them to complete the warranty repairs not completed the last time.

Follow up: I did follow the previous info and removed the trim piece to access the wheel trolley to remove the door. There were only 3 screws in the 4 holes and one was 1/2" long and the other 1 was 5/8" long. Well my arm is bruised up but I managed to get 3 larger 1" screws in to the track. I could not reach the last one but I think it will hold. Time will tell. Thanks for your direction and advice.
 
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