Power inverter

[Too Tall Paul]

I have a 2024 influence 3503GK and want to install an inverter. It's already pre-wired for the installation. What would be my best choice in an inverter?

 

[Soundsailor]

I have a 2024 influence 3503GK and want to install an inverter. It's already pre-wired for the installation. What would be my best choice in an inverter?

You might consider this Renogy 200-watt inverter. It has a built-in transfer switch and Bluetooth for easy monitoring. If you're prewired, it should be easy to install.

 

[jkwilson]

Too many variables to answer. What do you want to run? What kind of battery bank do you have? How often will you be able to recharge?

 

[Too Tall Paul]

Thanks for the replies. Not sure what my solar panel output (stock unit) is but I have 2 group 24 Li-time 100ah lithium batteries. I would like to run a coffee maker and TV at the same time. Appreciate your input.

 

[jkwilson]

Thanks for the replies. Not sure what my solar panel output (stock unit) is but I have 2 group 24 Li-time 100ah lithium batteries. I would like to run a coffee maker and TV at the same time. Appreciate your input.

I’d suggest switching to a French press with water heated in a kettle on the stove and forget the coffee maker on battery. A TV is easy, requiring only about 200W, but heating appliances usually make things more difficult. Plus the coffee is better.

A coffee maker can draw up to 1500W, which can be well over 100A from the batteries to power an inverter running the coffee maker. Your batteries probably can’t supply that kind of current without shutting down.

 

[Soundsailor]

Thanks for the replies. Not sure what my solar panel output (stock unit) is but I have 2 group 24 Li-time 100ah lithium batteries. I would like to run a coffee maker and TV at the same time. Appreciate your input.

With two 100 Amp LiFePo4 batteries, you should be fine to run a 2000W inverter which could easily handle your coffee maker (by itself).

 

[Jomani]

Thanks for the replies. Not sure what my solar panel output (stock unit) is but I have 2 group 24 Li-time 100ah lithium batteries. I would like to run a coffee maker and TV at the same time. Appreciate your input.

You can take the stock solar panel out of the equation since it is there primarily to power your 12v refrigerator and parasitic draw from safety devices such as your propane detector.

Sure, you could get by with 200ah of battery bank and a 2000w inverter if you just want to stop for a break on a travel day and have a cup of coffee while watching TV. In that scenario, you would connect to shore power when you arrive at your destination to recharge the batteries.

If, on the other hand, you are talking about boondocking, you will need to have a way to recharge the batteries - probably daily. I think you will also find that you will want to use the microwave (huge power draw) since it is also powered by the inverter prep circuit.

I went with two 230ah LiTime batteries and a 3000w Renogy inverter and have been very happy with that setup - Keurig, microwave and TV all happy. You will also need an automatic transfer switch (unless you get the combo unit like @Soundsailor suggested) and I would recommend a shunt battery monitor.

 

[Butcher]

I too went with a Renogy 3k inverter. The first one was dead right out of the box. The way I was handled by their service department was terrible. It was simple, you turn it on and there was no A/C voltage coming out. 4/0 cables and +600ah LifePo4 batteries.

I was in a time crunch, so I had to buy another 3k inverter from Renogy only to find out it's a 2k inverter in the box. I had to return that before they sent out a 3k inverter. So I purchased another 3k inverter and was able to get it installed 2 days before we left. I eventually returned all the inverters through Renogy [eBay] and got my money back. Fortunately eBay's return policy is pretty much no nonsense. Sadly, Renogy's return policy is all nonsense.

I'm not certain why companies cannot deal with their clients in a timely manner. I get that many consumers are not savvy with electrons, but that is not the case. As far as I am concerned, the person I talked to had no clue how they products work and was just reading off of a computer screen. Fortunately I have enough money to find out a work around to enjoy my camping trip.

 

[Butcher]

One draw back about getting a large inverter is that the inverter has a larger draw when at idle. Maybe you are ok with turning it off when you are not using it, maybe you have enough capacity that it does not matter. Just something to think about.

My take is bigger is better. I would rather have a product working at half speed than at full speed.

 

[440scout]

I agree with Soundsailor. I recently installed a pure sine wave 2000 watt Aims inverter with automatic transfer switch and remote switch with on/off button. Our batteries are two 100ah lithiums. The inverter is capable of 20 amps and it works fine with a Mr coffee percolator. But, I have upgraded the solar system from a single 100 watt panel which might deliver 5 amps charge to a 400 watt solar system that can produce 20 amps charge. Upgrading the solar system made all the difference so that after the percolator is done, the batteries are fully charged by 11am. Fyi, thats during the summer months when the sun is more overhead.

 

[AIM-owner NC]

I'm in the process of ordering the parts and arranging the labor (possibly me?) for upgrading my power system on an AIM 15bh with inverter prep. A couple questions -
1. Do I really need an automatic transfer switch if I just want to control the inverter on/off using the remote? I don't want it to drain the batteries with those small background loads so will turn it on only when I need it. I'm planning on a good amount of boondocking.

2. Is a shunt necessary if the charge controller has Bluetooth to an app for monitoring from your phone? Does the shunt do anything else other than battery monitoring?

All the videos and posts I've seen about inverter setup have these two components that seem unnecessary, unless I'm missing something?

Fory uograde, I'm planning to use three 200w solar panels (Renogy - new ones that work with partially shaded), 50 amp Victron SmartSolar (with Bluetooth), 2000W pure sine wave inverter with remote - Renogy (not the newer one with the automatic transfer switch and Bluetooth), and two 100ahr AGM batteries, also Renogy.

I don't love Renogy and find their customer service and app/UI quality lacking also, but they seem to be the best option for quality, price, and availability so I'm going with it. Also interested in these shade-resistant panels since I noticed my one current panel (factory) is shaded by the air conditioner when parked in my storage spot and gives me very little charge right now in the winter.

Thanks for your help!

 

[Scott'n'Wendy]

I’d suggest switching to a French press with water heated in a kettle on the stove and forget the coffee maker on battery. A TV is easy, requiring only about 200W, but heating appliances usually make things more difficult. Plus the coffee is better.

A coffee maker can draw up to 1500W, which can be well over 100A from the batteries to power an inverter running the coffee maker. Your batteries probably can’t supply that kind of current without shutting down.

We go the percolator route, same reasons.
To the OP, the inverter decision is only one part of the planning stage. You will need to consider solar panels, charge controllers, shunts, transfer switches (auto or manual), do you have enough battery etc. For example, your factory supplied solar panel will not be up to the job..so you will need to buy additional panels...then mounting...then a charge controller..
So before you buy an inverter, make sure you look at everything so you are not disappointed.

 

[Soundsailor]

@AIM-owner NC: AFAIK, you need an automatic transfer switch using the inverter prep. The inverter prep simply allows you to cut into the feed for the electrical outlets that will be served by the inverter. I suppose you could jury rig something with plugs, but a basic ATS such as this one is easier to wire in than plugs and is probably safer as well (it costs under $60).

While a shunt isn't necessary, it's a good thing to have. While the AGM batteries you mention will give you some idea of the amount of charge left by voltage, a shunt is much more accurate since it measures the amount of energy going into and leaving the batteries. And while we're on the subject of batteries, if you haven't already purchased the AGMs, go with LiFePo4 batteries. They charge way more quickly, are lighter for the amount of capacity, and last much longer.

The Victron charge controller is a good choice. If you get the Victron Smart shunt, both can be monitored from the same app. Three 200-watt panels seem like plenty to start. BTW, your panels won't produce anywhere near the same output in the winter as in the summer.

 

[AIM-owner NC]

That is a nice transfer switch and looks very easy to connect. But is 20 amps enough? I have 200ahr batteries and 2000w inverter, andy trailer power system is 30 amps.

@AIM-owner NC: AFAIK, you need an automatic transfer switch using the inverter prep. The inverter prep simply allows you to cut into the feed for the electrical outlets that will be served by the inverter. I suppose you could jury rig something with plugs, but a basic ATS such as this one is easier to wire in than plugs and is probably safer as well (it costs under $60).

While a shunt isn't necessary, it's a good thing to have. While the AGM batteries you mention will give you some idea of the amount of charge left by voltage, a shunt is much more accurate since it measures the amount of energy going into and leaving the batteries. And while we're on the subject of batteries, if you haven't already purchased the AGMs, go with LiFePo4 batteries. They charge way more quickly, are lighter for the amount of capacity, and last much longer.

The Victron charge controller is a good choice. If you get the Victron Smart shunt, both can be monitored from the same app. Three 200-watt panels seem like plenty to start. BTW, your panels won't produce anywhere near the same output in the winter as in the summer.

 

[Soundsailor]

Your 2,000-watt inverter puts out less than 20 Amps, so you should be fine. I have a 15 Amp transfer switch which has worked well.

 

[Scott'n'Wendy]

@AIM-owner NC: AFAIK, you need an automatic transfer switch using the inverter prep.

Nothing wrong with using a manual one if you want. Doesn't have to be auto.

 

[AIM-owner NC]

Your 2,000-watt inverter puts out less than 20 Amps, so you should be fine. I have a 15 Amp transfer switch which has worked well.

Great - thanks for verifying! I just looked up the specs and my inverter has a max continuous output of 16.6A, so the switch you referenced definitely would work.

 

[AIM-owner NC]

Nothing wrong with using a manual one if you want. Doesn't have to be auto.

Thanks, I'm still trying to figure that out. Not sure I still fully understand the need for a transfer switch if I can run the inverter prep Romex loop through the inverter and just use the inverter remote to turn it on and off when I need it. The inverter has a place to hardwire it to romex, but I'm not quite sure what to do with both ends of the wire if I need to cut the wire to attach it.

I am envisioning that I could just expose the wires on a spot on the romex loop without cutting it, and run it through the hardwire AC output port on the inverter (just has screws), then just manually turn the inverter on with the remote when I want to use it. That way I would not accidentally drain the batteries whenever I disconnect from shore power (which will be most of the time). I know the drain is probably not that great, but when boondocking longer term every little bit helps.

However I don't know if this idea would work, so I will probably try to call Renogy or see if my local mobile RV repair service can help me confirm this, unless anyone that reads this has done it with this particular inverter and same factory inverter prep that I have and can confirm it either way. Or I could just give it a try and see if it works the way I hope it would. Depends on how much energy I have for this, or it's just easier to go ahead and buy and install the switch. At least now I have a good switch option!

 

[440scout]

Thanks, I'm still trying to figure that out. Not sure I still fully understand the need for a transfer switch if I can run the inverter prep Romex loop through the inverter and just use the inverter remote to turn it on and off when I need it. The inverter has a place to hardwire it to romex, but I'm not quite sure what to do with both ends of the wire if I need to cut the wire to attach it.

I am envisioning that I could just expose the wires on a spot on the romex loop without cutting it, and run it through the hardwire AC output port on the inverter (just has screws), then just manually turn the inverter on with the remote when I want to use it. That way I would not accidentally drain the batteries whenever I disconnect from shore power (which will be most of the time). I know the drain is probably not that great, but when boondocking longer term every little bit helps.

However I don't know if this idea would work, so I will probably try to call Renogy or see if my local mobile RV repair service can help me confirm this, unless anyone that reads this has done it with this particular inverter and same factory inverter prep that I have and can confirm it either way. Or I could just give it a try and see if it works the way I hope it would. Depends on how much energy I have for this, or it's just easier to go ahead and buy and install the switch. At least now I have a good switch option!

@AIM-owner NC Yes, it's too bad the factory didn't cut that loop of romex and label each end input and output. But you can figure out which it is by using an ohm meter. I installed an Aims 2000 watt inverter with built-in automatic transfer switch and remote switch in a teardrop trailer. I didn't realize that the inverter has the pass through feature so that it doesn't have to be turned on while on shore power. I have it connected to a single 15 amp circuit breaker and use it for a 900 watt coffee percolator or small tv while boondocking. It supplies 5 outlets on that circuit which includes the one outside.

 

[Soundsailor]

Here are some instructions from GD on how to wire an inverter with inverter prep.