Propane & furnace & fireplace for heat

jim1521

Senior Member
RV LIFE Pro
Joined
Jul 31, 2017
Posts
810
Location
Ft. Myers, FL
I know this is one of those "how many angels can we fit on the head of a pin" questions, but I need some information.

Next year I will be selling my condo here in FL, and will be looking to live in my 313RLTS. In FL during the winter monthly rates are quite high but I've noticed some other gulf states (AL, MS, LA) have much lower rates - but no doubt I'll need to run the furnace. I've never filled a propane tank (not even on a grill, it's always been charcoal LOL) so when I just checked propane prices and I saw $3.99/gallon my eyes popped out of my head.

It's now got me wondering how long the 2 x 30 lb tanks last in a winter in S. Alabama, MS, etc. where average temps Jan-Mar are low-mid 40's. Being acclimated to SW FL temps for the last 15 years, we keep the house at 76 degrees year round. Also, how much heat does the fireplace (electrical) put out? I've actually never used either except when we tested it at PDI.

Any feedback would be helpful. Thanks.
 
...It's now got me wondering how long the 2 x 30 lb tanks last in a winter in S. Alabama, MS, etc. where average temps Jan-Mar are low-mid 40's... Also, how much heat does the fireplace (electrical) put out?

I'm not sure about southern Alabama but in Palm Springs last winter my propane usage looked like this:

Starting December 1st and ending March 30th:
1st first tank lasted 19 days
2nd tank lasted 14 days
3rd tank lasted 11 days
4th tank lasted 11 days
5th tank lasted 11 days
6th tank lasted 25 days

I just checked the low temps for last winter and they ranged from low 40's (Dec/Jan) to the 50's (late Feb/Mar). Afternoon temps were 70's and 80's (90's at times in March). As for the electric fireplace - it puts out enough to heat the RV at night no problem - to 65 degrees maybe. I don't know that it would heat it to 76 degrees with outside temps in the low 40's. Never tried that. We didn't use the fireplace for heat unless it was super cold at night because the place we stayed doesn't allow it. We also didn't use the furnace at night because it's too loud for me. But, when we woke up we cranked up the furnace. Our rig has dual pane windows which may help hold the heat in a bit better than standard windows but I doubt if it makes a huge difference. BTW, we shopped around a bit for propane as prices varied widely in the area and we found a place for $2.99/G.

Hope that helps a bit.
 
It's all relevant....depends on the ambient temperature on the outside, how many times the door is opened, etc. etc.

I do think you're going to have a problem getting it up to 76F but your body will acclimate over a period of a couple of weeks. Even at 72F, you're going to go through the propane in the winter months.
 
We've been full-timing now for 3 years and do not stay in cold areas if at all possible, but with outside temps in the 40's, the fireplace alone will not keep the house at 76 degrees. It is really only a 1500 watt space heater. If you insist on those temps you'll need to use the furnace or buy a supplemental space heater to augment the fireplace.

Cost wise per BTU propane is typically cheaper than electric UNLESS you're getting free electric. However, most places we've been for longer stays with monthly rates have metered electric. We stayed in LA (Lower Alabama/ Robertsdale to be specific) for 5 weeks in November in 2014, and there were nights where it dropped into the 30's. We don't like it too hot when sleeping so set the furnace at 62, and at 68 when we're up. A 30lb propane bottle lasted about a week being used overnight each night. I'd also definitely shop around on price per gallon, too, as $3.99 is highway robbery right now in most southern areas. RV Parks are rarely the cheapest either so I often take my tanks to the local Propane business to be refilled. We've also found Tractor Supply to be competitive.
 
Thanks for that info. When I lived up north, I used to keep the house at 72º, so that's what I would target for.

I may forego the plan, and just stay down here in SW FL. While it's expensive, I know the area, and don't have to bother moving the boat and other things.

Thanks! That's exactly the type of info I was looking for.

-Jim
 
We use the fireplace to keep the chill away and then use a supplemental electric portable space heater when we go to bed. No propane use that way.
 
There are places in FL where you can stay in an RV for a more reasonable price during winter. We spent two winters in the Ocala area and it was very competitive. We found several places for $500-$700 + utilities, and our utilities ran around $80 per month. Of course you can get coastal sites from $1000-$4000 a month too. The RV lifestyle is not inexpensive, though it can be made more so depending on the choices you make. In our case annually we spend close to what we did in a S&B between lots, utilities, insurance and if you figure the amortized cost of the rig. Of course we are saving $7k a year on property taxes. Good luck on your decision.
 
We have never even used our furnace, despite many cold nights in the NE Georgia mountains. Our fireplace and a 1500 watt heater keep us warm enough. We move the Lasko cube heater into the front bedroom, and we are toasty.
 
We camp on the Oregon Coast in the winter. Temp's are between 29F to maybe 49. Electric is free so we run the fireplace on low (mostly because it is on the same 15A circuit as the refrigerator), a small cube heater in the bathroom also on low and if it's on the lower side a milkhouse heater on low in the garage. Most of the time only 2 heaters. The furnace might get turned on in the morning for 20 or 30 minutes to bring the rig back up to 72 or so quicker then the 3rd heater.

We always have the bathroom vent open to let the humidity out.

I think running more heaters on low is safer then maxing them and the circuit out on high.

If it's going to be below 29 I put a electric oil radiator heater in the basement on low.
 
Many RV parks in Arizona will set up seasonal campers with a 100# tank that just sits next to the RV and is tapped into the LP system. I don't know if they get a better rate on LP, but I assume they do. I suspect they may get the LP tanks serviced by a local LP vendor instead of from the park.
 
I know this is one of those "how many angels can we fit on the head of a pin" questions, but I need some information.

Next year I will be selling my condo here in FL, and will be looking to live in my 313RLTS. In FL during the winter monthly rates are quite high but I've noticed some other gulf states (AL, MS, LA) have much lower rates - but no doubt I'll need to run the furnace. I've never filled a propane tank (not even on a grill, it's always been charcoal LOL) so when I just checked propane prices and I saw $3.99/gallon my eyes popped out of my head.

It's now got me wondering how long the 2 x 30 lb tanks last in a winter in S. Alabama, MS, etc. where average temps Jan-Mar are low-mid 40's. Being acclimated to SW FL temps for the last 15 years, we keep the house at 76 degrees year round. Also, how much heat does the fireplace (electrical) put out? I've actually never used either except when we tested it at PDI.

Any feedback would be helpful. Thanks.

You said that was 3.99 a gallon. I know some places will tell you per gallon but it's billed per pound. Don't remember the conversion but it wouldn't be as bad as it sounds. We just got back from a 2 week trip in mich. with the lows in the mid to upper 40's. We have a portable electric heater we put in the bedroom but it would rarely come on. Would set the fireplace at 70 and it would maintain 69 in the bedroom pretty well.
 
If your electric is paid, I'd be pretty surprised if you couldn't keep the RV warm enough with the fireplace heater and maybe a 2nd space heater. Our fireplace heater has no problem keeping the RV warm enough down to about 20-25 F. What we have to watch out for is keeping the furnace running enough to keep the basement warm so the pipes don't freeze. If we run the fireplace heater on high, the t-stat for the furnace almost never kicks on (which = cold basement and frozen pipes).

Since you're not getting cold enough for freezing pipes, I'd just try it with the fireplace heater and see how it goes. If you're paying for electric, maybe run both the fireplace heater and the furnace both, to offset the cost of the electric a bit.
 
The places that have filled my tanks in Oregon and California charged by the gallon. Not sure about the rest of the country (or other places in OR and CA that I haven't visited).

In the east wherever I have gotten propane they put the bottle on a scale then bill me for whatever poundage it is that it took to fill the tank.
 
In North Carolina, I have only seen charging by the pound. I don't know if it gets cheaper when buying more, but filling the five pound tank I use for my portable gas grill was $5 from empty.
 
I know some places charge for a full tank regardless of what they put in. I always look for a u-haul because they only charge for what they put in.
 
I have paid as little as $18 and as much as $32 to fill my 30lb/7 gallon propane tank. They are always empty when I take them to get filled. In the winter we get a 100 gallon propane tank delivered. I paid $2.75 a gallon in Salt Lake City.
 
So now as a follow-up question: How exactly do you get them filled? Do you disconnect them from the trailer, put them in the back of the pickup and drive them somewhere, or do you haul the entire trailer to somewhere to get them filled? Or do they come to you (like heating oil trucks do)?
 
So now as a follow-up question: How exactly do you get them filled? Do you disconnect them from the trailer, put them in the back of the pickup and drive them somewhere, or do you haul the entire trailer to somewhere to get them filled? Or do they come to you (like heating oil trucks do)?

I just disconnect mine and take them to get filled. Takes 10 seconds to pull them out of the RV. We also have a propane service that comes around our RV park and will fill bottles that owners have removed and set at the curb. They also fill the large tanks that can't be removed from class A motorhomes. I think they charge about $1 more per gallon for that service.
 
So now as a follow-up question: How exactly do you get them filled? Do you disconnect them from the trailer, put them in the back of the pickup and drive them somewhere, or do you haul the entire trailer to somewhere to get them filled? Or do they come to you (like heating oil trucks do)?

Ditto.... Just disconnect it pull it out of the trailer. I refill one of the two when it is empty. That way I always have a full tank in reserve. While the rigs have a changeover valve so that they can switchover automatically from the empty tank to the full tank, the danger in that is that if you are not paying attention, at 3am on a cold night you'll find you have no propane. I keep the valve closed on one tank until the one in use is empty, then manually switch to the full tank and pull the empty to be refilled.

When you get ready to buy gadgets, you can consider the Mopeka tank sensors. Google it and that'll give you some "boy toys" to put on your Birthday or Christmas wish list.[emoji6] I love mine!


Alan
 

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top Bottom