Propane help needed

JeffPlummer

New Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2021
Posts
9
Location
Andalusia, Alabama
2016 Reflection 337RLS
I have replaced the two stage regulator, and the passenger side regulator (because it had failed). With the two stage valve pointed to the primary tank everything works. When I throw the two stage valve to the passenger side it shows "green". The stove works, and the hot water heater, on gas, works. When I try the furnace, the igniter clicks, it tries to light and goes out. Also, when the furnace tries to start the indicator on the regulator turns "red". I understand the requirement for the second regulator, but I am wonder if the increased gas need is tripping an internal valve and shutting off the flow. Has anyone else experienced this sequence of events and problems?
 
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It seems odd turning red after being green. Have you checked the lines for kinks or possibly a faulty regulator ?

Yes. Checked the system end to end. Lines are clear. It seems that the furnace has a higher gas demand than the stove burners. In reading some of the prior posts on the subject, it appears there is an internal valve that closes down if it senses an overflow. In dismantling the line that traverses the RV from passenger to primary side there is a spring loaded valve (built into a brass fitting) on the primary end of the line. One thing I haven't tried is only opening the tank valve slightly on the passenger tank and then testing it again. If the furnace calls for more gas but the tank won't provide it, maybe the valve won't slam shut. The whole situation is just bizarre.
 
We had one side (drivers side) that the propane did not work at all after a few years. We ended up replacing the whole thing pigtails and all. After that it all worked.

It is odd what's going on, what brand regulator is it ? I believe they come in different pressures to handle the BTU requirements. Marshall Excelsior has a pretty good reputation for regulators




 
I did an exact part replacement of both regulators (Fairview), and pigtails that included visual gauges so I could monitor levels since the system wasn't auto switching. I am beginning to think that the system is being over-regulated and confusing itself. When I checked the line that connects the passenger tank, I did notice that there was a brass fitting on the end of the hose that seemed to have a spring loaded plate inside the fitting. I inserted a metal rod inside the fitting to make sure the plate wasn't jammed but it seemed to move with not too much effort. I am reaching a point that makes me believe the passenger tank will continue to be manually swapped and give up on the auto-switch functionality.
 
Try undoing the fitting that goes into the tank you are having trouble with, close the tap and re install the hose, turn the tap on slowly. You may have gone into excess flow mode ( this happens when the tap is turned on too fast). If that does not fix it try changing the tanks around you may have a faulty tap.I have also seen the fitting on the hose not going into the tank far enough to release the check valve in the tap. On my fifth I switched to the old style POL fitting. Hope this helps.
 
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Try undoing the fitting that goes into the tank you are having trouble with, close the tap and re install the hose, turn the tap on slowly. You may have gone into excess flow mode ( this happens when the tap is turned on too fast). If that does not fix it try changing the tanks around you may have a faulty tap.I have also seen the fitting on the hose not going into the tank far enough to release the check valve in the tap. On my fifth I switched to the old style POL fitting. Hope this helps.

Both tanks work when on the drivers side. Both regulators, and the pig-tails have been replaced and work on the primary side with either tank. The passenger side works for the stove and the hot water heater (on gas), but not when the furnace tries to start. It appears the furnace has a higher gas demand, that throws a check valve somewhere. I will try the "slow turn on" and see if it changes anything.
 
Are you sure you sure the regulator on the passenger side has the proper pressure rating?

The OEM regulator was rated at 30psi and painted red. There is a chance that your new regulator is a normal 11psi regulator and the new regulator is not letting enough gas flow from the passenger side tank, then once the gas reaches the second regulator, the pressure is regulated a second time to much less than 11psi. The second regulated gas flow is sufficient for the stove and water heater, but it is not sufficient for the 35,000 btu furnace.

This would also explain why the 2 stage regulator turns red when the furnace tries to light, there is insufficient pressure coming from the passenger side tank.
 
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Last post good point. Also try switching the pigtails around, have seen lots of problems with the QCC1 fittings not pushing the check valve in far enough.
 
Starting to grasp at straws, possibly the line from the red regulator over to the dual stage has a kink/slight blockage. Also maybe the new red reg is defective. After that take it to a professional who can check pressures, appliances etc.
 
This may sound crazy but for $10 worth a try. Buy one new pigtail with a POL fitting instead and try it. Have seen this a few times that QCC1 fitting I hate. I have had two gas tickets for 25 years so have some experience. FYI always turn the taps on slow.
 
Closing this thread as "UNRESOLVED". Tried all variations of equipment, without going financially overboard, and still have not resolved the issue. Unfortunately I am good with swapping tanks until this RV is no more. Thank you, everyone, for the suggestions and insights.
 
I had a similar issue where everything worked except the furnance when I was sold a "direct replacement" regulator at an RV dealership. The problem with the replacement regular was the btu rating of the replacement was half the original regulator's btu rating. Just a thought.
 
I had a similar issue where everything worked except the furnance when I was sold a "direct replacement" regulator at an RV dealership. The problem with the replacement regular was the btu rating of the replacement was half the original regulator's btu rating. Just a thought.

Thank you for the thought. I rechecked all the replace parts and they show btu ratings above what the appliances require. I am starting to wonder if one-way valve in the brass fitting just off the regulator (that prevents gas from flowing back to the tank might be jammed and not allowing a good flow. Because the driver's side is working, I am going to the swap valves from left to right) and see if the problem follows.
 
Closing this thread as "UNRESOLVED". Tried all variations of equipment, without going financially overboard, and still have not resolved the issue. Unfortunately I am good with swapping tanks until this RV is no more. Thank you, everyone, for the suggestions and insights.

I have used this solution for some time.
 

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