Rack and pinion cross shaft capture bolt grinding into Hydraulic Ram

[bfs673]

Another source of frustration

While working on a hydraulic issue (different post), I noticed another issue when exercising the slides.

Hopefully I can articulate this well enough without pictures.
There is a cross shaft (square tube) that extends between two gear sets to maintain proper slide alignment on both sides.
This cross shaft is connected to each gear assembly, on each end, by a capture bolt.
The Hydraulic ram for the slide outs is located just inboard of the Rack and pinion gear set; directly above the forward most capture bolt.

When the slide is moved, this bolt rotates with the cross shaft, grinding happily into the hydraulic ram outer housing assembly (not the polished ram itself).
This maintains contact throughout most of the motion, until the slide is nearly all the way in.

I'm not sure at all how to adjust this. The ram needs to be raised at least an inch or two for this contact to be eliminated.
Also, it's only a matter of time before this bolt chews through the housing of the Ram assembly, creating one heck of a mess!

By the way, you can ONLY see this while operating the slide assembly with the bellow coroplast removed, watching the mechanism work.

Slide adjustments "look" good; though I'm not really sure how to measure for perfect alignment.

Anyone else experienced this?
Adjustments possible?

 

[bfs673]

I was able to get a picture of this yesterday when pulling the rest of my hydraulic lines.

 

[JKellerJr]

I had the exact same issue. The only fix I came up with was shortening the bolt. I cant tell by the pick if that will work for you.

The problem was the bolt was to long and it wasn't fully threaded so it couldn't be tightened up. I removed the bolt, tapped the threads farther down, put it back and cut off the excess threads. I also had a leak on from the seal so I replaced the ram also. GD sent me the new ram.

 

[JKellerJr]

Here is another thread about the same issue

https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/sho...d-Slide-out-Hydraulic-Cylinder-Due-to-GD-Flaw

 

[bfs673]

Yup... EXACTLY the same issue. Misery loves company, so I guess I'm better now

What a horrible design ???

I will remove, re-tap and shorten the bolt as you suggested. Will also need to remove the cylinder and inspect it to see if it needs replacement.
The other post was helpful as the ram PN was listed (Lippert 339031)!

 

[JKellerJr]

Yup... EXACTLY the same issue. Misery loves company, so I guess I'm better now

What a horrible design ???

I will remove, re-tap and shorten the bolt as you suggested. Will also need to remove the cylinder and inspect it to see if it needs replacement.
The other post was helpful as the ram PN was listed (Lippert 339031)!

Make sure you check yours to be sure on the part number. Contact GD customer service. They may send you the part no charge.

Here is a pic of mine.

 

[bfs673]

Make sure you check yours to be sure on the part number. Contact GD customer service. They may send you the part no charge.

Sent them an email yesterday, no response.

Checking the ram measurements. This is a deep slide, much deeper than 24", so I'm guessing mine is a bit different.
Once I measure, it'll be pretty easy to cross reference the Lippert PN (or it'll be on the ram).

Checked the GD website for parts lookup... they showed 3 different sizes... LOL.
All of which were listed as discontinued.

No worries; Will just buy outright from an online retailer to get it ASAP. Headed out with the trailer in just over a week. Tight timing.

 

[JKellerJr]

Yes, mine was the dining room slide so it was 3'+ deep

 

[bfs673]

Yes, mine was the dining room slide so it was 3'+ deep

Thanks, and confirmed mine is the same PN.

It is a 53" cylinder with 38" stroke; Lipper PN 342328 just in case anyone else sees this while searching and needs the reference.
The good news is after removal, I don't believe it needs replacement.

I purchased some steel plate to create a protective barrier, will cut the extra screw length and chase the threads with a die.

What I'm struggling with, because the screw work will not prevent contact, is to create a support to eliminate the "sag" that naturally occurs when extended. This will help reduce/eliminate the contact, and the thin steel plate will be sacrificial for any minor contact afterwards.

I don't want to "pull" this cylinder, just to prevent the sag.