Reflection 150 298BH?

OC455-

Advanced Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2021
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38
Location
Northeast
Was looking through some dealer's website in my local area and happened to come across what they have listed as a 298BH:

https://www.meyersrvsuperstores.com/product-grand-design/reflection-150-series-fifth-wheel/298bh

Decide to G-search it and came up with another dealer that has it listed:

https://www.generalrv.com/product-grand-design/reflection-150-series-fifth-wheel/298bh

The GD site does not show a 298BH.

It looks like a 28BH without the small slide for the main bedroom. 200lbs lighter hitch weight and 200lbs lighter dry weight than a 28BH. I like the 278BH but if this 298BH is coming out I will wait.
 
Nice find! I do like that bunkhouse layout better than the 278BH we just picked up on Friday. Much easier to make the beds. The tradeoff for me is that it’s missing the large exterior storage compartment under the double bed at the back. Sure can fit a lot in there.
 
I blew up the image of the floorplan and it says under bunk storage in yellow. I don't know if it has the rear hatch like the 278BH???

That's the one thing that I really like on the 278BH is the rear storage compartment. I'm still trying to convince my other half to really look into these instead of another travel trailer. The 278BH, 298BH, 28BH and the 31MB are all within my trucks towing specs.

Really would like to see the 298BH in person.
 
Grand Design is eliminating the 28BH and making it the 298BH in the 150 Series.

They are also redeveloping the 31MB, to be the 324MBS.

Haven't seen a timeline yet for actual production.
 

Attachments

  • Reflection 324MBS-SpecSheet.pdf
    6 MB · Views: 60
  • Reflection-298BH-SpecSheet (004).pdf
    6 MB · Views: 64
That's pretty cool I guess. If they're dropping the 28BH in favor of the 298BH, having it be lighter isn't bad.
 
Know this is an old thread, but having been in the 150 298BH and the 28BH, the 150s feel lighter, as in like there isn't as much to them. I'm kinda disappointed; thought 28BH is what we'd replace our 2400BH with when we are ready. But 2022 is the newest we'll be able to get even if that's 3-5 years away.
 
The 150 series are built well. I don’t know what you feel when you are in them but they are lighter and tend to have less slides. That’s why they are the 150 series. They are geared for short bed towing. FWIW They upgraded all of the slides this year from the schwintek to rack and pinion. I just went to an rv show and saw the 298bh in person. It’s a very nice rig but doesn’t have the rear storage. There are many owners of 150’s on here. I bought a 278bh because of the floorplan. I still haven’t found a floorplan that is better for my needs. I wanted the original 28bh with the rear cargo but that is long gone. I wouldn’t hesitate to buy a 150 series again. If you only want a full Reflection, the 311BHS is worth a look.
 
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Im new to the forum and to this 5th wheel, so pardon if i’m in the wrong place. My 150 Reflection does not have an automatic leveling. Rear leveling is manual but front is done with push button. Each time i use the front leveling system, the rod that connects both front jacks seems to break off at the motor. Had jacks replaced and still have problem? Help!
 
How does the cross shaft break off the motor? Does the shaft come off, or does something physically break? With the cross shaft off the motor can you easily rotate the cross shaft? With the foot off the ground of course.
 
For Hoopy Frood

Not sure how to respond to your post sonce im new to forum. Appreciate your swift reply. Weather here is bad so i will go out tomorrow and check taking your suggestion. The part that breaks on motor is portion that is attached to mortoe with screw. If this post gets to you, let me know amnd i’ll try to be more descriptive.k
 
For Hoopy Frood

Not sure how to respond to your post sonce im new to forum. Appreciate your swift reply. Weather here is bad so i will go out tomorrow and check taking your suggestion. The part that breaks on motor is portion that is attached to mortoe with screw. If this post gets to you, let me know amnd i’ll try to be more descriptive.k

Use the quote feature on the bottom of a persons post or tag them with @
[MENTION=42104]Hoopy Frood[/MENTION]
 
Hey. Thanks for the prompt response. It is currently raining so i’ll be checking the cross shaft when rv is on truck tomorrow. As i recall, it does move - where it breaks is between the rod and motor. There is an extention from motor to rod which is attached with a screw. The screw holds but breaks off on the metal extension from the motor. I don’t know if that extention is a permanent part of the motor or if can be replaced. The mobile repair guy i use, who replaced the jacks to the tune of $1,100 came over to look at it and said “it shouldn’t have done that” and I haven’t heard from him in three weeks. I”ll get back to you tomorrow. Again, thanks for helping out.
 
I can't say about now, but it used to be those gearboxes were really weak, almost plastic. Not uncommon to have issues, but if the cross shaft is causing the problem, it would be best see how easily the shaft turns without a load and with a load. The gear reduction should allow you turn the shaft even with the foot on the ground, may have to use a wrench, but a fairly small one.
 
[MENTION=50145]Boofy1[/MENTION]
@Hoppy Frood

I merged the 2 threads ion hopes of keeping the help coming from Hoppy Frood to Boofy1......
 
Im new to the forum and to this 5th wheel, so pardon if i’m in the wrong place. My 150 Reflection does not have an automatic leveling. Rear leveling is manual but front is done with push button. Each time i use the front leveling system, the rod that connects both front jacks seems to break off at the motor. Had jacks replaced and still have problem? Help!

If it is the square tubing rod (runs the whole width of the front bay) which connects both landing gear legs together then most likely a bolt or bolts on each end of that rod have sherd off or barely caching. These bolts are located about 2 inches inward from each end and these bolts pass through a shaft that extends out of the top of the landing gear.
 
Levelers

The square rod with a bolt at each end is fine. What sheared off is connection from the motorbtobthebsquare tube. The leveler on the end where motor is attached does allow that leg to go up and down but because the metal connection to the square bar is broke, the only way to lower foot is to do so by hand. Darn, wish i knew the terminology better.
 
Levelers

I can't say about now, but it used to be those gearboxes were really weak, almost plastic. Not uncommon to have issues, but if the cross shaft is causing the problem, it would be best see how easily the shaft turns without a load and with a load. The gear reduction should allow you turn the shaft even with the foot on the ground, may have to use a wrench, but a fairly small one.

Don’t know if i am doing the response correctly but here goes. The square tube that goes from one end to the other is fine including the bolts. The bolts are not sheard-off. If there was a weaker bolt, the break would have been at this bolt. But, What is the problem is the metal piece that connects the motor to the square tube actually broke. The leveler motor does move the leg on the side of the motor up and down. I have to manually move (turn) the opposite side because the rod is not attached to motor. I guess, the solution is to replace the gear box? But why did this happen in the first place. I had the two sides (levelers) replaced to the tune of $1,100 when the bolts on the square rod sheared off. That, my mobile mechanic, said would correct the problem. Well, it didn’t and now he is not responding to my calls.
 
As I said, those gearboxes are not notably robust, but it still takes a bit of force to break one. Normal usage shouldn't do it, so you have to consider what is putting so much strain on that part that it breaks. About the only thing that comes to mind is the offside leg is requiring waaay too much force to rotate and lower the leg. There is a 90° gear at the top of the leg, which rotates a screw that raises and lowers the leg. Does the problem seem to occur at about the same place when lowering? You can pull the cap off the top of the leg and examine the 90° gear, it just pops off. Maybe try greasing the screw itself, not easy, but you can reach up inside with something skinny and smear some grease. Or drill a hole in the leg and spray some lube on the screw while it is turning. Just some suggestions.

That trailer shouldn't be heavy enough to cause issues.
 
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In the photo did the break occur at 1 or 2? 26CDDC1A-1C19-4D34-B446-A8092C1712C4.jpeg
 
You just sacrifice the master bedroom access to the bathroom direct and the slideout with the extra storage. We have the 28BH and love it. Just hope our schwintek slide doesn’t give the problems many see.
 

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