Reflection - short bed/hitch questions

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Hello, everyone,

Posted: 07/18/14 02:47pm Link | Quote | Edit | Print | Notify Moderator

I'm retiring (for the second time) in February and my wife and I are considering a move up from our travel trailer to a fifth wheel for extended travel. When we list all of our requirements and compare them to smaller (read "not too heavy") fifth wheels, we keep coming back to the Grand Design Reflection 303RLS. The tow vehicle is a 2013 GMC Sierra 2500HD SLT 2WD crew cab/short bed with the Duramax/Allison combo. My questions are these:

1. If you have any of the Reflection models and a short bed, have you found that you needed (or wish you had) a slider hitch? I know newer units from many of the manufacturers have extended pin boxes and rounded caps, so I'm not sure how the clearances work out in this case. It seems to me that the old width of overhang/2 + 4" for pin-to-cab clearance is mainly for square-front trailers and/or those without extended pin boxes.

2. With the new trucks (especially the Chevy/GMC HDs) being so much taller than their predecessors, have you had any problems with either getting the trailer to sit level when hitched or with overhang-to-bed rail clearance? In other words, if you set the hitch plate low enough for the trailer to sit level, is the bed rail clearance too little?

I want to do as much homework as possible before spending significant amounts of money.

Thanks in advance,

Rob
 
Welcome to the forum!

I have had two short bed trucks with two fivers. Our current truck is a 2004 Dodge 3500 short bed 2wd. I have had a slider hitch with both of our trucks have only used it twice. I used it the very first night I towed our Laredo home because I thought that I had to use it every time I backed up and the other time I was in a very tight campground trying to get into a sight that our friends were holding for us. We have the Reflection 337 and do not anticipate having to use it but I have not tried to see how tight I can get either. I can't speak on the height of the new trucks so I will let someone else chime in on that. If I were buying a new hitch and the budget was not tight I would likely go with the Pullright auto slider. I have a Reese hitch now and have had zero problems in 10 years.
 
We have a long bed, so can't help with your hitch question.

Our 303 sits level with 6" clearance on our 2008 Chevy 2500 2wd Duramax.

Kay
 
I've been installing Curt custom rails on my 03 F250 today, and don't let anyone tell you no drilling is required. The holes didn't line up as promised, and it's been a dirty job with a lot of drilling 1/2" holes.

I'm also installing Air Ride 5000 rear air suspension at the same time. They're the easiest way to get your vehicle to "not squat." While they don't improve your gross load limit, the do improve handling and braking by riding level.

I've never seen so many nuts, bolts and washers as with the air suspension kit. And with poor instructions, I'll eventually figure out installation--over time.

Next up is a TruCool transmission cooler. I think with 2 1/4" holes and one 1/2" hole, I can easily install it in 30 minutes. Best $150 insurance anyone can do to protect their transmission.
 
My neighbor has a Sierra bunk house he tows with a 2014 Ford platinum 250 SB 4x4 with a Huskey 16k manual slider. He's never used the slide and I've watched him do a 90* cut backing in before. His bed rail clearance is about 6" while level.
I have an 08 mega cab 2500 2wd with 6" shorter bed with a Pullrite Super Glide 16k on super rails I just installed. Just returned from our 1400 mile round trip maiden voyage towing our 369RL. Everything went very good but....
I have 5.5" bed rail clearance and got very nervous pulling in and out of a couple of gas stations and the camper sits slightly nose down while hooked up on level ground. And that's with Airlift 5000 levelers. I think I need to use the 3" hitch lift and will feel more comfortable. If it's to much I may need to raise the pinbox one notch which would give me 1" of nose up and 6.5" bed rail clearance.
Seems like most new trucks are 4x4 these days so the trailer mfg's are building to accommodate what they figure are the most likely trucks to pull their products.
 
We have a 2002 short crewcab Chevy with a RBW hitch mounted center of wheel wells and do not have any problems with our 303 coming close to the back of the cab. I have been in some pretty tight places with no worries. It seems like more manufactures are designing 5er's to be towed with SBW trucks. My truck drops about 2" but still sets very level. Hopes this helps. Happy Camping
 
While I tow my Solitude with a long bed, I had my hitch (an RBW slider) moved over from my 2500HD short bed. I never needed the slider with my Sandpiper, but like someone else said, I would rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it.

Flat Top - have you had any issues with finding parts for your RBW hitch? I was doing some maintenance on mine this year and ran into an issue with parts availability.
 
I have a stationary RBW 15k, so if I need anything I build it. Ive had this hitch 12 years and it was used when I bought it.
 
We tow our 337 with a 2012 short bed dodge and have a 16k Reese slider. I will tell you it NEEDS the slider if you are turning past 77 degrees or so. So far, haven't needed it, but will be glad I do if the time comes.

As for bed height, it isn't an issue for us, and trailer tows level.
 
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That's because dodge has such a short bed on their trucks. Dodge is 76.3, chevy is 78.86 and ford is 81.8 inches.
 
I have a 16K Draw-Tite slider and second LostinCanada's comments. Depending on where you go, there might be a good chance you will need one at some time. If in doubt, I just slide the hitch and don't worry about it. If you are trying to get into a tight spot, you will have more things on your mind than worrying about hitting the cab.
 
I have a 16K Hijacker manual slider hitch on my 2010 Dodge RAM 3500 short bed and I would not be without it. Those are tough questions to answer. I struggled with those same questions myself when I bought first last 5er just a few years ago in 2010. Every manufacturer's truck seems to have different box length - even between model years. So what works on your current truck may not work on your next truck. Box height might change as well, but I think that the pinbox can be adjusted to accommodate that.

Also, another consideration for you. Even though the front cap of my Solitude has cut-outs to make turning easier, the front cap sticks out further in relation to the pinbox than on my old 5er so the Solitude's front cap is actually closer to my truck's cab than my last 5er. This affects me as I carry kayaks on my truck's roof (just had to mvd my kayaks further forward). I was so focussed on the picking a trailer with a front cap that has a better turning clearance (for convenience) that I never considered anything else. Always better to have equipment that gives you flexibility. Not sure how the Reflection's cap is positioned in relation to its pinbox but don't forget to check it.

The Solitude's cut-outs does enable me to turn much better, but I still use my slider hitch to get in and out of tighter spaces. Especially parking in nicer spots at the campground without worrying or accidents!

My advice is to go with a slider hitch. Either manual (cheaper) or automatic - doesn't matter. Having a slider hitch will enable you to buy any pickup without worrying about the box dimensions or the cap's clearance. It will also allow you to change trailers later on without worrying if the new one has a cap made for better turning clearance.

As most manufactures offer a 5er hitch as an option, don't get talked into a standard 5er hitch by the sales person if you want a slider hitch :)

Hope this helps you with your decision. Good Luck & Happy camping!
 
I've been installing Curt custom rails on my 03 F250 today, and don't let anyone tell you no drilling is required. The holes didn't line up as promised, and it's been a dirty job with a lot of drilling 1/2" holes.

I'm also installing Air Ride 5000 rear air suspension at the same time. They're the easiest way to get your vehicle to "not squat." While they don't improve your gross load limit, the do improve handling and braking by riding level.

I've never seen so many nuts, bolts and washers as with the air suspension kit. And with poor instructions, I'll eventually figure out installation--over time.

Next up is a TruCool transmission cooler. I think with 2 1/4" holes and one 1/2" hole, I can easily install it in 30 minutes. Best $150 insurance anyone can do to protect their transmission.


Another "easy" way to cure the squatting problem would be a set of Timbrens. Much easier to install than air bags and much less expensive. The drawback: They can't be easily adjusted for ride height except during the initial installation.
 
Check out firestone workrite , same as timbrin but cheaper .

I have a ford 1 ton with a short bed , I have a slider hitch to pull my 337 .

I have not needed to use it yet . But my logic is is better to have and not need , then to need and not have .
 
I personally would just use an Andersen 5th wheel hitch, cheaper and lighter than anything else on the market and takes the place of a slider.
 
I personally would just use an Andersen 5th wheel hitch, cheaper and lighter than anything else on the market and takes the place of a slider.


I understand the "cheaper and lighter" thing. I do not get how the Anderson "takes the place of a slider". Care to explain?
 
I went with the air hitch that is a non slider that has four air bags and two shocks. They take out 90% of the chucking and banging you get from other hitches. Not just being good for my wife's bad back it is also better for the truck and trailer. Ran the numbers for the truck to the trailer and because of the length ford short beds are I didn't need the slider. So far so good.
 
I took a hard look at the Andersen hitch. There is about a 4" setback. I ended up with a goosebox. No hitch in the bed. Just a removable ball. I have been in some tight spots past 90 degress with no problem.
 
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