Reflection unhitching questions

jdux999

Advanced Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2020
Messages
67
Hello All. We pick up our 260RD next week and it'll be a week or 2 later that we head out for the first time. This is our first 5th wheel - we had a Class C for 3 years - and I'm confused on the unhitching sequence. I'm assuming the first step is to unhitch the truck. When do you plug into the power post, before or after leveling? At the other end, hitching up, when do you disconnect the power? Another question; how far off level can the rig be before I start the self leveling process? At times on my class C (manual leveling), I would raise one or more tires 6+ inches on blocks to get level. Using blocks and the leveling system on the 260XD is there a limit to how unlevel the ground can be? Thanks for the help, John
 
Hello All. We pick up our 260RD next week and it'll be a week or 2 later that we head out for the first time. This is our first 5th wheel - we had a Class C for 3 years - and I'm confused on the unhitching sequence. I'm assuming the first step is to unhitch the truck. When do you plug into the power post, before or after leveling? At the other end, hitching up, when do you disconnect the power? Another question; how far off level can the rig be before I start the self leveling process? At times on my class C (manual leveling), I would raise one or more tires 6+ inches on blocks to get level. Using blocks and the leveling system on the 260XD is there a limit to how unlevel the ground can be? Thanks for the help, John

When unhitching, we eyeball how level it is. It's best to be pretty close to level when you start out. We pull in, check for level, then place landing pads under where the legs will be. Turn on auto level control and scroll down to "drop landing gear", hit "enter" and the front gear then drops and takes a bit of the weight off the truck. When display shows "ready", I lower front legs to raise rig off truck. When the truck stops moving up, we unhitch and pull truck forward. Then hit "auto level". When auto level completes, we start moving in, husband does electrical/water connections, and I go in and put out slides.

Basically do it all in reverse for hitching up. Husband disconnects power/water (after dumping), and I close up slides and lock the door.

If the ground just isn't level, we use leveling boards to raise low side to even things up side to side before starting leveling process.
 
When unhitching the first thing we do is to put chocks down at the wheels of the trailer. It's no fun watching (according to my cousin) your new trailer roll down a slight decline and into a tree.
 
When unhitching the first thing we do is to put chocks down at the wheels of the trailer. It's no fun watching (according to my cousin) your new trailer roll down a slight decline and into a tree.

Yeah, I didn't say anything about the chocks, but they go down the same time as the landing pads. Before we do anything else.
 
We don't have auto level so we are a little different. First get the trailer very close to where you will set up. Check level side to side and if you need to place blocking on a side do it now and pull onto blocking. Next chock wheels both in front and in back of wheels. Lower front jacks until weight is off fifth wheel and you can just see it lift. Pull release on kingpin lock, unplug pig tail from truck and drop tailgate. pull truck forward and completely clear of trailer leaving room to walk between truck and trailer. Level front to back. When you are happy with level plug into pedestal and lower back jack stabilizers to a snug fit. Next check inside to make sure nothing is in the way of running slides out and all cabinet doors are shut, then run slides out to about 1' left with one person outside watching and making sure nothing is in the way of the sides going all the way out. Check one more time inside that nothing is between the slide inner lips and the wall. Run them out the rest of the way.
 
Hello All. We pick up our 260RD next week and it'll be a week or 2 later that we head out for the first time. This is our first 5th wheel - we had a Class C for 3 years - and I'm confused on the unhitching sequence. I'm assuming the first step is to unhitch the truck. When do you plug into the power post, before or after leveling? At the other end, hitching up, when do you disconnect the power? Another question; how far off level can the rig be before I start the self leveling process? At times on my class C (manual leveling), I would raise one or more tires 6+ inches on blocks to get level. Using blocks and the leveling system on the 260XD is there a limit to how unlevel the ground can be? Thanks for the help, John

If relatively level here is our sequence
1. Chock wheels
2. Lower front jacks about 6 holes
3. Ground front jacks
4. Unlock hitch
5. Raise trailer to take pressure off of hitch
6. Open/release hitch
7. Raise trailer slightly so about 1/8th to 1/4" above hitch plate
8. Pull truck out.
9. Plug in 50 amp
10. Push auto level
 
Someone posted this a few years ago. Great details. KEN

How to Hitch/Unhitch a 5th Wheel


HITCHING A 5TH WHEEL

Be sure wheel chocks are in place
Be sure the rear stabilizers are UP on the 5th wheel. (Check the cross-stabilizers are loosened if you have them)
Lower tailgate on tow truck.
Back the tow truck until the king pin on the 5th wheel is close to the hitch
Use the front-landing gear and raise or lower the king pin so that it is slightly lower than the 5th wheel plate.
Open the arm/jaws on the 5th wheel hitch
Back tow truck slowly until kingpin engages up the 5th wheel hitch and automatically locks on jaws
You can see the handle close on its own if you are lined up right and back far enough
Put the emergency brake on
Close the arm/jaws on the 5th wheel hitch and pin into place
Visually check that the jaws of the hitch are around the king pin
Connect power cord between tow truck and the trailer.
Connect breakaway switch cable.
Test: Manually activate the tow trucks trailer brake and take off the emergency brake. Press the gas and try to pull away from the 5th wheel. Put the emergency brake back on
Raise the landing gear to their fully retracted position
Raise tailgate
Pick up and store wheel chocks.
You may need to pull the 5th wheel forward a little to remove blocks under the low-side tire.
Always walk around the 5th wheel and use our checklist for departure

CHECKLIST (See complete Departure Checklist)

Check all lights. A second person is handy and again we use our cell phones.
Check lock is closed..
Check that TV antenna is down and in the correct position or satellite dish is removed.
Check that all park connections are disconnected; water, electricity, cable.
Check that all windows, doors and steps are closed and secured properly.
Check that chocks have been removed.
Walk around the entire trailer to be sure everything is secured properly.
Look at your campsite to be sure it is clean and you are ready to travel.

UNHITCHING A 5TH WHEEL

Find a level site and situate 5th wheel where you want it parked
Chock the wheels
Drop the landing gear
Disconnect the cord and breakaway switch cable
Drop the tow truck's tailgate
Gently put the truck into reverse without giving it an acceleration. This will move the kingpin off the locking bar and allow you to disengage it
Shift the truck into neutral
Step on the brake and apply parking brake
Disengage the kingpin locking bar on the hitch
Slowly drive tow truck away from 5th wheel
Raise truck tailgate
Adjust 5h wheel height to proper front and back level
 
I always make sure that the trailer is never plugged into the truck and shore power at the same time.

With our previous truck and trailer I plugged in the shore power while the trailer was still plugged into the truck. Burned up my brake controller. I am not sure if there is a cause and effect but I don’t want to take a chance.

Mark
 
Thanks All for the help. Great Information!

Hi Jdux999, not sure anyone mentioned what to do on a non-level site. If you find yourself on a site that is unlevel (i.e. backed in and the front is lower than the rear) before you lower the front jacks,and after you lower the stabs, you should run them down a ways...say maybe 6 inches or so. If you don't, when you hit the auto level and the front begins to lower you will max out and runout of jack. The system will stop and give an error.
Hope this helps...you will know what I mean the first time you don't lower them and have to rehook the truck to start over again.;)

p.s. this running down of the jack first can apply to any of the jacks that may need to be lowered below their max length...
Happy RV'ing
 
If relatively level here is our sequence
1. Chock wheels
2. Lower front jacks about 6 holes
3. Ground front jacks
4. Unlock hitch
5. Raise trailer to take pressure off of hitch
6. Open/release hitch
7. Raise trailer slightly so about 1/8th to 1/4" above hitch plate
8. Pull truck out.
9. Plug in 50 amp
10. Push auto level

Don't forget to lower the tailgate.
 
Unhitching before plugging in?

When unhitching, we eyeball how level it is. It's best to be pretty close to level when you start out. We pull in, check for level, then place landing pads under where the legs will be. Turn on auto level control and scroll down to "drop landing gear", hit "enter" and the front gear then drops and takes a bit of the weight off the truck. When display shows "ready", I lower front legs to raise rig off truck. When the truck stops moving up, we unhitch and pull truck forward. Then hit "auto level". When auto level completes, we start moving in, husband does electrical/water connections, and I go in and put out slides.

Basically do it all in reverse for hitching up. Husband disconnects power/water (after dumping), and I close up slides and lock the door.

If the ground just isn't level, we use leveling boards to raise low side to even things up side to side before starting leveling process.

I am curious to know why a number of you plug in only after leveling, rather than before? We often do, but it isn't etched in stone, and I figure that if I've already disconnected power from the truck, hooking up to the 30 amp campground system will save a little wear and tear on the battery. Again, just askin'.
 
Thanks all for the information.

"I am curious to know why a number of you plug in only after leveling, rather than before? We often do, but it isn't etched in stone, and I figure that if I've already disconnected power from the truck, hooking up to the 30 amp campground system will save a little wear and tear on the battery. Again, just askin'."

I was wondering that as well. Isn't it safer to use shore power rather than your battery. Doesn't that put a lot of strain on your batteries?
 
If relatively level here is our sequence
1. Chock wheels
2. Lower front jacks about 6 holes
3. Ground front jacks
4. Unlock hitch
5. Raise trailer to take pressure off of hitch
6. Open/release hitch
7. Raise trailer slightly so about 1/8th to 1/4" above hitch plate
8. Pull truck out.
9. Plug in 50 amp
10. Push auto level

In addition to lowering the tailgate, you’ll also want to disconnect the break-away and light cables. If you have an Andersen hitch with chains, they need to be unhooked as well.

I take one last look before I move the truck, ensuring that I see light everywhere between the truck and trailer. That way, nothing is still hooked up. I call it my “all-clear” check.
 
I am curious to know why a number of you plug in only after leveling, rather than before? We often do, but it isn't etched in stone, and I figure that if I've already disconnected power from the truck, hooking up to the 30 amp campground system will save a little wear and tear on the battery. Again, just askin'.

It's just when it fits into the routine. I help unhitch, my husband drives the truck away/parks it, and I hit the auto level button. Then he hooks up power & water, I unload the truck into the rig and put out slides.
 
Just a quick note regarding how high to raise the rig off the truck when unhitching. It will separate much easier if you will raise the rig until you can see a gap between the plate on the hitch and the rig. That will eliminate any binding.
First thing I do when I get trailer where we want to setup is plug in the surge protector at the power pole. Ours does a system scan that takes a few minutes and will turn green once it completes it test. I begin the unhitching sequence next and by the time I'm ready for shore power it is green and ready to go.
Otherwise all good advice.
 
Just a quick note regarding how high to raise the rig off the truck when unhitching. It will separate much easier if you will raise the rig until you can see a gap between the plate on the hitch and the rig. That will eliminate any binding.
First thing I do when I get trailer where we want to setup is plug in the surge protector at the power pole. Ours does a system scan that takes a few minutes and will turn green once it completes it test. I begin the unhitching sequence next and by the time I'm ready for shore power it is green and ready to go.
Otherwise all good advice.

I drop the landing gear until the truck stops moving up.
 
I drop the landing gear until the truck stops moving up.
With the B&W Companion that isn't high enough for the jaws to open. You need the gap and then when you swing the arm the rig will unload on its on so all you have to do is remove the trailer plug and pull away. Otherwise the arm will feel like it's disconnected and not open the jaws.
 
With the B&W Companion that isn't high enough for the jaws to open. You need the gap and then when you swing the arm the rig will unload on its on so all you have to do is remove the trailer plug and pull away. Otherwise the arm will feel like it's disconnected and not open the jaws.

Well, it works for us. We don't have B&W.
 

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