Relocating lithium battery to passthrough

jb603tipper

New Member
RV LIFE Pro
Joined
May 30, 2024
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7
Location
New Hampshire
Greetings-

I am replacing my tongue mounted Lead Acid 80AH battery with a LiTime 280AH LiFePo. My charger is a WCFO autodetect and the solar charger has a lithium charging option, so seems like simple replacement. However, I plan to move the battery location into the passthrough.

I believe I need to run the positive lead from the battery back out to the original connection on the external underside of the trailer frame, to the input of the auto reset fuse (power jack and brakes also wired to that location for constant power from the battery). On the other end of that auto reset fuse is power back to the trailer to the battery disconnect (I believe that is where it goes but not confirmed), the trailer pin, TireLinc, etc..

I am looking for suggested ways to to run the positive cable from battery in the passthrough out to that auto reset fuse location on the external trailer frame? Do I need to drop the coroplast to route a new cable into the passthrough? Is there a way to route the positive battery cable through the existing conduit that has worked for you?

I read where one person used the old negative battery lead to pull a new positive lead through the existing wire routing, eliminating the need to drop the coroplast?

Another person seems to have repurposed the positive cable on the output side of the auto reset fuse by relocating it to the input side of the auto reset fuse, used that as the battery positive, and then installed a new reset fuse between battery positive and the battery disconnect?

What has worked for you?

Thanks for any advice you have

John Benson
GD Imagine 2800BH
 
Dropping the Coraplast is pretty easy, especially in the front as there isn't much in the way. I'd drop front area so you can see exactly where you can pass the cables through behind the convenience center (there's already a big hole there where wires and water lines are passing through). I used the existing wiring at the front to connect pos/neg power points at the front for connecting an air compressor, fan, etc. That's been handy. All you need to do is splice in a wire from the existing cable (or at the reset fuse) to the new battery location. That way everything forward works as it currently does. I assume you'll just run a negative cable from the new battery to the frame, which you'll likely find already has an existing ground bolt if you drop the front Coraplast.
 
Thanks so much for your reply and suggestions. I was thinking of grounding the battery to the battery side of the battery monitor shunt that's right in the convenience center. Do you see an issue with that?
Dropping the Coraplast is pretty easy, especially in the front as there isn't much in the way. I'd drop front area so you can see exactly where you can pass the cables through behind the convenience center (there's already a big hole there where wires and water lines are passing through). I used the existing wiring at the front to connect pos/neg power points at the front for connecting an air compressor, fan, etc. That's been handy. All you need to do is splice in a wire from the existing cable (or at the reset fuse) to the new battery location. That way everything forward works as it currently does. I assume you'll just run a negative cable from the new battery to the frame, which you'll likely find already has an existing ground bolt if you drop the front Coraplast.
 
Thanks so much for your reply and suggestions. I was thinking of grounding the battery to the battery side of the battery monitor shunt that's right in the convenience center. Do you see an issue with that?
Yes, that is an option for sure. If you ever add an inverter or anything else, you'll just want to redo that cabling to make sure it is appropriately sized for the load and distance. But to just connect to the existing system, you would be okay taking that approach.
 
I should have the same setup as your rig. I added a 200ah and mounted in the pass thru just behind the nautical bay. I thought I had a pic but not a great one. I took the side off the nautical bay and in there you will find the shunt along with other wires that trace back to the spot you mention near the tongue. I was able to connect the leads in here and I didn't see any reason for there to be issues based on tracing the same flow of power. 2 camping season in and no issues.

If i can I will get you a pic of what I did.
 
the wfco autodetect doesnt work. After speaking to wfco there are a couple of things that are an issue. The cable length needs to be less than 10 feet from the converter to the battery, and the wire gage needed to be heavier than what GD installed. bottom line it would never autodetect and work.....same for the furrion solar charge controller. It would never stay set to lithium.

So just budget for another charger and solar controler.
 
Greetings-

I am replacing my tongue mounted Lead Acid 80AH battery with a LiTime 280AH LiFePo. My charger is a WCFO autodetect and the solar charger has a lithium charging option, so seems like simple replacement. However, I plan to move the battery location into the passthrough.

I believe I need to run the positive lead from the battery back out to the original connection on the external underside of the trailer frame, to the input of the auto reset fuse (power jack and brakes also wired to that location for constant power from the battery). On the other end of that auto reset fuse is power back to the trailer to the battery disconnect (I believe that is where it goes but not confirmed), the trailer pin, TireLinc, etc..

I am looking for suggested ways to to run the positive cable from battery in the passthrough out to that auto reset fuse location on the external trailer frame? Do I need to drop the coroplast to route a new cable into the passthrough? Is there a way to route the positive battery cable through the existing conduit that has worked for you?

I read where one person used the old negative battery lead to pull a new positive lead through the existing wire routing, eliminating the need to drop the coroplast?

Another person seems to have repurposed the positive cable on the output side of the auto reset fuse by relocating it to the input side of the auto reset fuse, used that as the battery positive, and then installed a new reset fuse between battery positive and the battery disconnect?

What has worked for you?

Thanks for any advice you have

John Benson
GD Imagine 2800BH
I want to do this also. I was thinking I could just taking the existing cables at the current battery location and them back through the frame and run them into the pass-through if they are long enough. I would put the battery right at the corner of the pass-through (see picture). I looked underneath and I could not see how to route the cables through the coroplast. Another possible issue will the cables fit through the hole in the frame that they are coming through to the battery connection (see picture) which is close to where I want to put the battery.
 

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