Repositioning safety chains

[Redapple63]

Here is my set up, as you can see due to the length of the chains and the angle they drop at, you can’t pinch them.

 

[MtnSeeker]

Had the same issue in our Inside XLS 23bhe with a 10k Equal-i-zer. Worst thing was, our dealer strongly advocated for the Camco Recurce R3 which they seem to sell pretty often, and I insisted on the Equal-i-zer, as I had a few k version with our previous trailer and loved it. The pinching issue was one thing, and then our 10k version needs a lot more frequent greasing than our old one...

Back to to topic: after deciding against a new hitch and having the chain attachment points relocated, I bought a hitch ball with a 1" rise. To make sure that the threads don't get hig by the Equal-i-zer's arms, i added two large hardened steel washers, which gave another little lift to the ball. It came out perfect, no danger of hitting anymore for a $25 investment or so.

Thank you for your response. If you have your trailer onsite (or a photo) could you post a photo of your new safety chain attachment points? Did you do the work or hire a welder? We bought a 1" rise but even with the right socket size couldn't undo the old ball, our lever arm for the socket doesn't seem to have the power to release that amount of torque. We might try to take it to an Autozone or somewhere that can help us undo and install (with proper torque) the new ball. We will also consider the washer under the ball. I too was wondering if relocating the safety chain attachment to the sides of the frame would interfere with the WDH arms. If you don't have a photo but have a link to the attachments that you bought, that might be helpful too. Any suggestions are welcome.

 

[MtnSeeker]

I’ve would start with a longer chain, it wouldn’t be in that pinch point if it were just a touch longer.

On mine the chain attach points are much closer to the bumper, looks like your hitch receiver is a bit further back behind the bumper moving that attachment point further back.

Yes I think our set up was poorly done. ¼" too far forward for the safety chain attachment hook, and the hitch receiver could have been about ¼" more forward and we wouldn't have a problem. The chains get in the way even if hanging straight down. The WDH chunky part even touches the safety chain attachment hook when turned pretty tight. I will see how PDXDale redid his, or maybe have a welder relocate our chain attachment to the frame sides, or have them move the hook back ¾ of an inch if possible, and add a 1" ball riser. Thanks for your picture and thoughts.

 

[MtnSeeker]

I went out and checked my chains today, since I have a 2500RL and the Equalizer hitch. I also have a nearly cut through passenger side chain link right at the welded loop. I'm interested in what you ended up doing to fix this going forward.

AndyBaum - if you are still around this forum... did you fix your hitch/chain crush problem? If so how? Thanks! (photos would be helpful if possible)

 

[hnsbrighton]

Just did this mod 2 weeks ago on my 2600RB. Used a cutoff wheel to cut out the 2 damaged links and the attachment bar. 5/16 chain anchors from Amazon. A local portable welder provided the welding. Was lucky that the chains were just long enough after removing the 2 links and positioning the anchors. The sway bars did present a challenge but in this location the chains are not pinched on tight turns. Also with the outboard mounting the crossed chains provide more of a cradle should the tongue drop.

 

[MtnSeeker]

Thank you hnsbrighton. The photo is helpful. I know each location is different, but ballpark what did the mobile welder charge to remove the old attachment bar and install the two side anchors? Thanks so much, we appreciate the Grand RV village!!

 

[hnsbrighton]

Thank you hnsbrighton. The photo is helpful. I know each location is different, but ballpark what did the mobile welder charge to remove the old attachment bar and install the two side anchors? Thanks so much, we appreciate the Grand RV village!!

I cut off the old mount bar myself with a cutoff wheel in an angle grinder. The welder charged $150 but most of that was probably a travel charge. I don't know if it would have cost any more for him to do the 2 cuts.

 

[PDXDale]

Thank you for your response. If you have your trailer onsite (or a photo) could you post a photo of your new safety chain attachment points? Did you do the work or hire a welder? We bought a 1" rise but even with the right socket size couldn't undo the old ball, our lever arm for the socket doesn't seem to have the power to release that amount of torque. We might try to take it to an Autozone or somewhere that can help us undo and install (with proper torque) the new ball. We will also consider the washer under the ball. I too was wondering if relocating the safety chain attachment to the sides of the frame would interfere with the WDH arms. If you don't have a photo but have a link to the attachments that you bought, that might be helpful too. Any suggestions are welcome.

Sorry, I kind of wrote my previous post in a weird way. What I meant is, that I decided against both, new hitch and relocating the chain hangers. Only the riser ball, which gave me enough height difference so that the chains and the hangers can't be pinched anymore.
To loosen the old hitch ball and tighten the new one to spec, I just stopped at a local RV dealer. They didn't even want money for it, I forced them to take $10.

Photos below: Riser Hitch ball and washers after installing, angle of truck and trailer when testing clearance, and picture of achieved clearance. Right blue arrow shows the marks in the hitch head where it previously contacted the chains and chain hangers. With the new ball, the hangers now clear above that area, where the hitch head is out of the danger zone. In my case, longer chains wouldn't really have helped, as the hitch head would still contact the chain hangers even when I pulled the chains out of the pinch zone.
Last photo is before new ball was installed. You can see the markings on both hitch head and chain hangers.

 

[MtnSeeker]

Sorry, I kind of wrote my previous post in a weird way. What I meant is, that I decided against both, new hitch and relocating the chain hangers. Only the riser ball, which gave me enough height difference so that the chains and the hangers can't be pinched anymore.
To loosen the old hitch ball and tighten the new one to spec, I just stopped at a local RV dealer. They didn't even want money for it, I forced them to take $10.

Photos below: Riser Hitch ball and washers after installing, angle of truck and trailer when testing clearance, and picture of achieved clearance. Right blue arrow shows the marks in the hitch head where it previously contacted the chains and chain hangers. With the new ball, the hangers now clear above that area, where the hitch head is out of the danger zone. In my case, longer chains wouldn't really have helped, as the hitch head would still contact the chain hangers even when I pulled the chains out of the pinch zone.
Last photo is before new ball was installed. You can see the markings on both hitch head and chain hangers.

Thank you so much for the visual, we really appreciate the help.

 

[kparrow]

Sorry, I kind of wrote my previous post in a weird way. What I meant is, that I decided against both, new hitch and relocating the chain hangers. Only the riser ball, which gave me enough height difference so that the chains and the hangers can't be pinched anymore.
To loosen the old hitch ball and tighten the new one to spec, I just stopped at a local RV dealer. They didn't even want money for it, I forced them to take $10.

Photos below: Riser Hitch ball and washers after installing, angle of truck and trailer when testing clearance, and picture of achieved clearance. Right blue arrow shows the marks in the hitch head where it previously contacted the chains and chain hangers. With the new ball, the hangers now clear above that area, where the hitch head is out of the danger zone. In my case, longer chains wouldn't really have helped, as the hitch head would still contact the chain hangers even when I pulled the chains out of the pinch zone.
Last photo is before new ball was installed. You can see the markings on both hitch head and chain hangers.

Is that a 1” or 2” rise ball? I’m considering both posted options. Since my links are already damaged I’m considering relocating with the buyers weld on attachment points or the riser ball.


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[kparrow]

Just did this mod 2 weeks ago on my 2600RB. Used a cutoff wheel to cut out the 2 damaged links and the attachment bar. 5/16 chain anchors from Amazon. A local portable welder provided the welding. Was lucky that the chains were just long enough after removing the 2 links and positioning the anchors. The sway bars did present a challenge but in this location the chains are not pinched on tight turns. Also with the outboard mounting the crossed chains provide more of a cradle should the tongue drop. View attachment 40741

Looks great! Still liking the location? If I do this I’m considering your location or simply on the underside of each beam. Any particular reason you didn’t under mount on the bottom side? Just curious


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[hnsbrighton]

I did consider the underside. There's a thin plate welded to the underside that locates the jack tube that looked like a perfect location but we decided it was too thin to provide a strong enough attachment even if additional welds were added to its edges. If the anchors were placed on the frame in front of that plate. the chains would again interfere with the hitch. I'm happy with the mod.

 

[PDXDale]

Is that a 1” or 2” rise ball? I’m considering both posted options. Since my links are already damaged I’m considering relocating with the buyers weld on attachment points or the riser ball.


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I used the 1" rise. You'll have to add one or two washers to avoid the shank sticking out on the bottom and potentially hitting the bar sockets of the Equalizer, so in the end that gives you around 1.5" rise. More than enough to solve the problem. The 2" rise ball would give you ~2.5" rise in the end, which would look weird, at least in my opinion.

I used Curt 40086, which is raw steel, rated 25k lbs. 40035 is the chrome version, rated for 10k. My trailer is around 7k, but I went with the raw steel version because... well, mostly because it feels so heavy duty My hitch is in the garage when not used, and no signs of corrosion at all. If I had the hitch mounted all the time, I might have chosen the chrome version.

I just checked, and Amazon has the 40086 for $26 right now. I assume you need a 2 5/16 ball?

1" rise, raw steel (what I used):
https://www.amazon.com/Curt-Manufacturing-40086-CURT-Trailer/dp/B00IWTAEGG

1" rise, chrome (note that Amazon has 2" rise in the description, but 40035 is indeed 1". 2" would be 40036 I think)
https://www.amazon.com/CURT-40035-Trailer-16-Inch-Diameter/dp/B0009TAOCG

Those are thew washers I used (not availabe anymore, but any hardened steel ones with 1 1/4 inner diameter should work):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BPKYVXG

 

[jleonard]

It's been a while since I've been on here, but it's ggod to see/read some of these ideas.
We've been on the road since end of May, 40 stops and about 7k miles, and I do have to move the chains.

 

[kyoungers]

I've got the exact same problem using my Equalizer hitch has clipped the safety chains. I found a bolt-on option that appears to meet GVWR requirements and would like to get any feedback from others before ordering and installing it.
TIA for any constructive feedback.

https://www.linklock.net/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/New-Bolted-Installation-Guide.pdf
https://www.linklock.net/wp-content...ication-CFR-3-8-SIGNED-STAMPED-10-28-2019.pdf

 

[paraskier]

After seeing some users in another forum, I see that I am not the only one with this issue, my chains looking pretty bad. Hitch has some wear but not bad.

 

[txarsoncop]

Unsafe safety chains

Thanks to [MENTION=33537]Shill123[/MENTION] and this thread, TIL why my safety chains look like this.

The only reason I even caught this was because I was installing a B&W Continuum hitch and then I wondered HOW the chains ended up like this?! I've never had an occasion, or reason, to nearly jacknife the trailer and then inspect the chains. NOW I know what I'm going to do before I actually tow with the Continuum hitch! For now I fixed it by cutting the damaged links off and used a pair of 3600# quicklinks. Thanks to [MENTION=55599]kyoungers[/MENTION] post I'm probably going to go with linklocks for a final solution.

 

[SteveD]

I have had the same exact issue with my safety chains and my Equalizer hitch. I have a 2022 Imagine XLS. It is still an issue I have not resolved. The only good fix I can think of is to move the chains back away from the tongue. It is going to require grinding the welds on the bar to remove it, moving it back a little, and having it re-welded.

 

[RV2600RB]

My chains don't hit the hitch.
Here's my hitch/ball setup.
BTW, I don't use the spring bars.
Rich


Hmm. Not sure why it came out sideways....