Roadmaster to Morride IS?

[Dopperud]

When my springs went flat, I replaced the springs with the Roadmaster slipper springs and shocks since I was going to do the work myself, the cost was not too bad. To be frank, I was underwhelmed as I really did not see much difference in the performance. I have sense though seriously about getting the Morride IS system.

Has anyone had both systems and what were your thoughts on the differences?

Thanks

 

[Hoopy Frood]

This JMO of course, but I've never been able to discern much difference when I've changed springs, tires, or much else. The only thing I really noticed was the change when I put on the EZ-Flex equalizers. And that was most noticeable at bridge approaches, frost heaves, and that type of break in the pavement. There was only the truck bounce when going over it, you got no jerk from the trailer going over it. But as far as ride quality, unless you're in the trailer before and after changes, I can't see how you would really notice much difference. Some people have commented about things not moving around as much, but that would be about the only think I would think.

However, I think anything you do to get rid of solid equalizers is going to help the trailer suspension. I had looked at the Roadmaster system, but it just looked like more work than I wanted to do. And more money than I wanted to spend.

 

[JKellerJr]

When my springs went flat, I replaced the springs with the Roadmaster slipper springs and shocks since I was going to do the work myself, the cost was not too bad. To be frank, I was underwhelmed as I really did not see much difference in the performance. I have sense though seriously about getting the Morride IS system.

Has anyone had both systems and what were your thoughts on the differences?

Thanks

I have not had the Roadmaster but I do have IS. I obviously cant tell what your feeling/seeing but I agree with [MENTION=42104]Hoopy Frood[/MENTION], from a seat of the pants feel in the tow vehicle there isn't much, if any, difference from the stock suspension at least to me. depending on the hitch set up that may be different for some. It bounces less but the shocks have more to do with that. I do see less stuff being thrown around inside upon arrival but its not eliminated due to the teeter totter effect going over uneven surfaces.

I went with IS mainly because of all the issues with the stock leaf's/axles, equalizer, etc. I had no confidence in it. Our 377 had flat springs almost right away. I know all that can be upgraded but I just skipped to what I believe is the best option on the market. It adds 250-300 lbs per axle to the RV. A lot of that is the heavy subframe added to the frame. Everything looks so much more heavy duty than a leaf system.

 

[ajg617]

I went with IS mainly because of all the issues with the stock leaf's/axles, equalizer, etc. I had no confidence in it. Our 377 had flat springs almost right away. I know all that can be upgraded but I just skipped to what I believe is the best option on the market. It adds 250-300 lbs per axle to the RV. A lot of that is the heavy subframe added to the frame. Everything looks so much more heavy duty than a leaf system.

This is exactly why I am strongly considering it as I sit in a hotel in Elkhart while GD factory takes care of a few things including looking at all the springs, bolts, shackles they shipped to us last year when stuck in Montana which I believe have again failed in the 5-6K since. I have no confidence in the factory suspension and don't want to go through this every year. And, any weight I can add to the wheels has to help - the trailer is so light behind the nose that I've even had the heavy stove top grate pop off and the rear of the island separate. If it is that rough, the factory suspension will not stand up to it.

 

[LMagelitz]

When my springs went flat, I replaced the springs with the Roadmaster slipper springs and shocks since I was going to do the work myself, the cost was not too bad. To be frank, I was underwhelmed as I really did not see much difference in the performance. I have sense though seriously about getting the Morride IS system.

Has anyone had both systems and what were your thoughts on the differences?

Thanks

If you watch any YouTube, Changing Lanes recorded some vibration data before and after their MORryde IS installation. They also shot video during a ride inside the trailer, both before and after.

 

[Rolinhar]

I had the Roadmaster slipper springs and shocks on my 2019 Solitude 310 GK, along with a Trailair Air Ride pin. Got a good deal for the 8k spring set over the 7k and went with the 8k set.² Always thought perhaps the 8k springs were over kill and maybe harsher then what the 7k set would have been. However I do believe that the Roadmaster setup was much better then the factory equalisers and springs. Never had any issue opening the door to the trailer after a days drive and finding everything all over the inside. Now I can't say how much the Trailair played in the bounce none bounce of the interior of the 310.
Last summer we ordered a new Solitude 382WB and had the MOR ryde IS installed at the factory. Picked the 382 up in Oct in Alberta and headed south to Arizona. It should be noted that the 382 came with the MOR ryde pin. Both DW and myself looked at each other after a few miles going down the road and said at the same time that there was a definite improvement in how the truck and trailer went over rough patches or bridges. Now am I going to say it is smooth as silk, no, but there is a noticeable difference from the Roadmaster, which I have posted about and said it was a vast improvement over the factory setup.
Just looking at the IS it is so much more then what the regular axles are and definitely hands bad roads and gives me a feeling of security in the under carriage of a 43 ft trailer. I'm not sure that I would put the IS on the 310 if I still owned it especially having the Roadmaster installed on it.
I can say that we just towed the 382 back to British Columbia from AZ and on both legs down and back home did we have anything move in the trailer. The glasses/dishes stay where they are in the cupboards. May have a box of crackers fall over in the pantry but that is it. We have been very impressed with the IS system and think.it was a good move to have it installed on our condo on wheels

 

[Dopperud]

Thanks for all the input.

With the Roadmaster, I still have things falling over and just feel like we are beating the trailer up. We will be doing regular trips between California and Texas so we will be racking up some serious milage. I think I will schedule the upgrade for October and I'll report back with the difference.

 

[RVingwithJessandChris]

Have never used the slipper springs but moved from 7k leaf/drum to 8k morryde is/disc and the first set of train tracks leaving morryde was immediate noticeable as in you didn’t feel the rv bang over the tracks like the truck. Best money we ever spent. If we ever buy a new one it will be ordered with morryde is from the jump. Should be standard on rv’s that are beat to death on our nation’s roads.

 

[PhilandAmy]

Here’s another vote for MorRyde US and disc brakes. I had them added to my 303RLS and immediately saw a big difference at RR tracks, bridges and on lousy highways. I hadn’t had a problem with the stick suspension yet, but plans to travel significant distances reduced my confidence in them to the point I was rest to invest in the IS.

We have also noticed much less movement of items in the coach. The Keurig, dehumidifier and other things are normally within a couple of inches of where they started their journey. I’m glad I made the change.

 

[Hoopy Frood]

This is strictly FWIW, and not to denigrate the Morryde IS. But the first thing I noticed on both trailers I had installed the EZ-Flex equalizers, was the lack of trailer feedback over railroad tracks, bridge approaches, and frost heaves. It's like they just went away. Getting rid of solid equalizers, and/or the Lippert Equa-Flex equalizers is the best thing you can do for your trailer. And your neck.

 

[huntindog]

This is strictly FWIW, and not to denigrate the Morryde IS. But the first thing I noticed on both trailers I had installed the EZ-Flex equalizers, was the lack of trailer feedback over railroad tracks, bridge approaches, and frost heaves. It's like they just went away. Getting rid of solid equalizers, and/or the Lippert Equa-Flex equalizers is the best thing you can do for your trailer. And your neck.

I have had both, the Dexters and the Lippert models IMO they both work well. They both being made of rubber are a wear item. They do need replacing at some point. When I last replaced a set, the Lipperts had a wider selction of sizes and load ratings. When purchasing again I would buy the cheapest one that fit well.

 

[traveldawg]

I installed a MorRyde SRE4000 and disc brakes to my rig when brand new but have now gone to a MorRyde IS (with my disc brakes). I did it primarily because I experienced some horizontal frame cracking in the web of the frames above the spring hangers (don't recall if it was the front or rear hangers). I had the frame boxed but still wasn't comfortable that I had the best arrangement. I had a MorRyde x-Factor across the SRE400's but not at either spring hanger location. The frame shop said the cracks were from the stresses produced when making tight turns.

fwiw - when the SRE4000 and shackles were removed the bushings were all worn and even the SRE4000 holes were oval shaped a bit from wear.

I can feel the difference on highway bumps, crossing railroad tracks and bridge transitions. But mostly I am much more confident that I have a stronger supporting structure between the wheels and frame. I think the ride is better for me and the RV.

 

[ajg617]

@traveldawg Factory found a horizontal crack in the I-Beam yesterday on the door side when dropping the CRE3000s. I suspect it is similar to the crack that you discovered - in the web (have to confirm exact location after the new year) but about 2". Not exactly sure where - they just said above the axles on the door side. Lippert came over this AM to weld on a 1x2 on both door and off-door sides. I'm told it is a fairly common fracture. Glad they found it and after Lippert did a complete inspection of the entire frame last week.

 

[SSROSS]

I installed the Roadmaster kit on my 303RLS about two years ago and have no complaints, but I also upgraded the axels too. I was tired of changing those 5200lb axels about every 6 months. They would keep bending and Dexter would keep sending me new ones under warranty. I actually called both Grand Design and Dexter and said if they would just send me 6k or 7K axels this problem would go away but they just pointed fingers at each other and kept sending axels. So when I bought the Roadmaster kit I put 7K axels on and have never had a problem since. This setup was recommended to me buy several trailer frame shops and it has worked out great for me. Also when you have to get into a tight spot it doesn’t sound like the whole suspension system is coming apart. It also eliminates 6 grease points too, and you have springs that don’t keep going flat because they are 7K rated. The other nice thing is the shock absorber kit, we find that everything in the trailer stays put. I installed the system myself in one day and the instructions were well written so it went well.

 

[traveldawg]

@traveldawg Factory found a horizontal crack in the I-Beam yesterday on the door side when dropping the CRE3000s. I suspect it is similar to the crack that you discovered - in the web (have to confirm exact location after the new year) but about 2". Not exactly sure where - they just said above the axles on the door side. Lippert came over this AM to weld on a 1x2 on both door and off-door sides. I'm told it is a fairly common fracture. Glad they found it and after Lippert did a complete inspection of the entire frame last week.

Sounds like the same thing the folks who welded my frame said - pretty common. Sounds like the place you took yours to get fixes has things under control.

The place that repaired mine said it is from the stresses on the frame when turning. I figured I solved that when I went to the MorRyde IS.

I'd guess no matter which axel arrangement other than a full change like a MorRyde IS there would still be the same amount of stress on the frame. I also guess that some MorRyde x-factors at both spring hanger locations and at the center point pivot would help a lot spreading the stress from turning; and possible prevent those cracks in the webbing.

 

[ajg617]

Sounds like the same thing the folks who welded my frame said - pretty common. Sounds like the place you took yours to get fixes has things under control.

It's at the GD factory in Elkhart.

Based upon the repairs they made there's been some pretty good flex on that side at least. The three bent outriggers they replaced were on the rear portion of that side, they added another under the slide-out (all doubles) because the floor was dropping and then pulled the slide-out out and replaced two windows, seals, removed and reinstalled awning rail when they inspected what appeared to be a crack above the slide topper. This was a last minute add after three frame inspections - one by GD factory in April, another by LCI shop in June, third by LCI at the GD factory Dec 16 - none of which picked it up. I have the full LCI report and it says "Inspected the cross members and outriggers, found no damage XMS or outriggers". The only reason it was discovered the fourth time is I had asked GD to look at the CREs since they were the only suspension components not replaced in two breakdowns and with axles out of alignment. They pulled the rig back in the shop a second time and decided to replace the CREs which is when they noticed it.

Mine is a Covid build. There was a 4 month window when built where LCI experienced manufacturing problems - at least with the Schwintek slide-outs. Makes me wonder if it was more widespread and a bad batch of steel. I'll have some additional discussions with GD when my POC returns in Jan.