Running wire for high performance flat in motion starlink Solitude 3550BH

novasbc

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Mar 22, 2022
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8
Greetings.

I do a lot of camping trips where I'll work remote during the day. I got one of the first RV subscription starlinks, and mounted it in the basement. I don't use its built in wifi, but rather have MOCA adapters installed in the compartment above the TV, with a travel wifi router installed there. The router is up there primarily because:
  • Before Starlink, I would use it to rebroadcast a campground's wifi, or my mobile hotspot to my well known SSID, avoiding changing wifi for onboard devices and laptop, etc
  • Direct Ethernet to some media devices in the cabinet

But, it really was a huge pain to park somewhere, find sufficient sky access (if even possible), and get the tripod set up somewhere. Best case, it took me a half an hour to get the dish out from under the bed, out onto the ground on the tripod, and then feed the cable (possibly up to 100 feet) through the water port under the nautilus. If we stopped for the night enroute to our final destination, it was a PITA to set up, so I usually just didn't.

So, as of tomorrow, I'll have both parts of the permanent roof mount high performance in-motion starlink antenna, to replace my existing RV service.

Originally, I thought I was just going to run the starlink cable into the cabinet with the router, and avoid the basement - providing me the benefit of a 120v plug from the inverter (best I can tell, the only inverter backed outlet in my model which is solar ready & generator equipped is the TV and the fridge).

But silly me, I realized that of course this is on the slide. I can't just run it through a hole in the top of the cabinet!.

So, I know there is a roof access point which runs to the basement. So, I've switched my strategy towards utilizing this entry point. But, it leaves me with two options:
  1. Leave starlink modem & power below deck, and utilize existing MOCA adapter to provide ethernet in the cabin
  2. Run starlink cable through basement, through the belly, and up into the slide.

It really appears option #2 is going to be a royal PITA. I see a bundle of cables which are suspended under the slide, and go up in a wiring loom, with the number of cables appearing to match up with the outlets in the TV cabinet, and I presume power for the electric fireplace. My fear is that assuming I can get the cable routed through the belly (looks like I'll have to take the belly down, not easy to access that area from the passthrough compartment.

So, option #1 looks like the most likely option, with the only question: is the power outlet that's mounted near the inverter inside the bay actually hooked to the inverter? If so, that would be a convenient place for me to tap into power. If not, does anybody know if the 2000 watter inverter that GD uses is hooked up in a way which one add an additional outlet in the area with the water heater/inverter/etc? I'm not sure how they wired the power outlets w.r.t to the power panel up in the inside of the unit. This afternoon, I plan to empty out my stuff in the belly, so I can open the compartment to the inverter and check it out. I'm concerned it may be a proprietary wire/connection that runs up to the panel inside, making the install difficult.

We really want the inverter option so that we don't lose internet while traveling or boondocking. We had a number of issues with boondocking & starlink because when the generator (either the internal propane, or external gas gennies) would run out of fuel, the power would fluctuate. Unfortunately, starlink sees rapid resets as the sequence to do a factory reset!!

As an aside, I'd love to convert one of the kitchen outlets to be backed by the inverter, but again, not sure how the wiring is behind the panel. Suppose I'll need to open the panel and do a closer inspection.

Edit: Overall, I'm also looking for feedback on the options I've listed above, and if there are any alternatives I've overlooked to get the cable from the roof Starlink dish to the power supply & Starlink modem, and finally to the inside cabin of the RV.

Thanks!

(And I've appreciated browsing this forum since last year, just haven't had a need to post until now)
 
... (best I can tell, the only inverter backed outlet in my model which is solar ready & generator equipped is the TV and the fridge).

What model RV do you have? On our Solitude (factory solar, residential fridge), all of the outlets are on the inverter except for the microwave and electric fireplace.

Rob
 
2022 3550BH solitude s-class. Solar ready/prep but not the factory solar package.

As I understand it the solar package with factory panels is what gives you most of the outlets being backed by the inverter.
 
How about returning to basics and use the Starlink router? In the basement, the wifi will reach every corner of your RV and campsite. This I'm quite sure as I was a beta tester and have been running the rectangular Dishy this way for a year. I can set up Dishy in less than 10 minutes and be online whether using the mast mount I have for the ladder, the original stans, or an open air tripod for the mast in order to have line of sight. I am guessing you're not a rustic camper with the permanent mount. Nevertheless, it's not difficult to run up to the TV's cabinet. You just need to be willing to open things up. There's no direct line to simply fish it.

I just checked with a friend running the flat in-motion with a Riverstone TH and the router in the basement works great in their TV on the road.

As for the outlets, there are none wired special with the prep package unless there a change since mine. It's nothing more than having a chase from basement to roof, which really isn't a chase either, you may just have a plate on the roof or an empty housing for Jaboni connectors. If solar was added, you're doing the outlets, and after-the fact is pulling an existing circuit line or custom rework/add. Are you adding solar? Instead of diving in, you might want to try things out, and a simple battery fed, sine wave inverter could allow that. Just some thoughts.
 
I'm not looking to add solar, I just want to be sure the starlink is powered by the inverter.

Also, I can't use the starlink router without introducing a double hoop on the VPNs I use for work (through my travel router). Best case I'd end up with two wireless signals.
 
I'm not looking to add solar, I just want to be sure the starlink is powered by the inverter.

Also, I can't use the starlink router without introducing a double hoop on the VPNs I use for work (through my travel router). Best case I'd end up with two wireless signals.

You only have a wired inverter from factory with factory solar or residential fridge. You have a residential fridge? If so, the inverted outlet, without also having solar, is just at the fridge.

Having been a road warrior a long, long time, not sure of your complexity with VPNs, but you can also just shut down the Starlink wifi, get the ethernet adapter, and run ordinary CAT up into the cabinet and terminate it once run, which will be way more forgiving than the Starlink cable. However, you may find your travel router cannot give you quality signal in the tow vehicle. Most are designed for short range performance.
 
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You have a residential fridge? If so, the inverted outlet, without also having solar, is just at the fridge.
Yes, I have the residential fridge. And your statement is incorrect (at least for my 3550BH-R). The two outlets behind my TV and in the cabinet above my TV are also on the inverter from the factory.

get the ethernet adapter, and run ordinary CAT up into the cabinet and terminate it once run, which will be way more forgiving than the Starlink cable
Hah, well, this is part of my existing install, minus running ethernet, and part of my original questions in the first post - how much of a PITA is it to run to the cabinet in the slide. As you can see below, I have my starlink modem & ethernet adapter mounted in the basement, and connected to the cabinet via MOCA.

Looks like in the high performance verison, they've gone back to using a standard shielded CAT5/6 cable (at least on the power supply side) compared to the proprietary on both sides thing they have on the residential model.

20230217_131306.jpg

However, you may find your travel router cannot give you quality signal in the tow vehicle. Most are designed for short range performance.
Definitely a reasonable concern. I've already validated the range - I can easily access my particular unit from my house while it's in the camper out back (rebroadcasting my house's wifi signal under it's own SSID, in bridged mode), with good signal. The GL Inet Beryl travel router has worked really well for me. I have several VPN profiles, and can activate one quickly which routes all traffic through the VPN with a simple physical switch. The only complaint I have on it is that I can't use IPv6 while using the VPN :(. Since my house is also running a residential starlink, I use IPv6 to have a publicly routable IP address to access my lab and dev environments

Thanks for the responses! I'm nearly certain at this point I'm going to want to keep the MOCA, and just find out if the outlet in the basement is run off the inverter - and if not, add a new outlet in there.

Glad they put a roof access point. Such a thing was not done on my previous camper.

roof entry.jpg
 
Yes, I have the residential fridge. And your statement is incorrect (at least for my 3550BH-R). The two outlets behind my TV and in the cabinet above my TV are also on the inverter from the factory.


Hah, well, this is part of my existing install, minus running ethernet, and part of my original questions in the first post - how much of a PITA is it to run to the cabinet in the slide. As you can see below, I have my starlink modem & ethernet adapter mounted in the basement, and connected to the cabinet via MOCA.

Looks like in the high performance verison, they've gone back to using a standard shielded CAT5/6 cable (at least on the power supply side) compared to the proprietary on both sides thing they have on the residential model.

View attachment 44966


Definitely a reasonable concern. I've already validated the range - I can easily access my particular unit from my house while it's in the camper out back (rebroadcasting my house's wifi signal under it's own SSID, in bridged mode), with good signal. The GL Inet Beryl travel router has worked really well for me. I have several VPN profiles, and can activate one quickly which routes all traffic through the VPN with a simple physical switch. The only complaint I have on it is that I can't use IPv6 while using the VPN :(. Since my house is also running a residential starlink, I use IPv6 to have a publicly routable IP address to access my lab and dev environments

Thanks for the responses! I'm nearly certain at this point I'm going to want to keep the MOCA, and just find out if the outlet in the basement is run off the inverter - and if not, add a new outlet in there.

Glad they put a roof access point. Such a thing was not done on my previous camper.

View attachment 44967

GD has then simply put the fridge circuit on the inverter. Trip the breaker off and you'll know if the basement outlet is or not. In ours, that outlet is tied to the bathroom GFCI circuit and not the fridge.

As for the CAT, just need to plunge into underbelly and cross over to the cable bundle into the slide. That's as neat and challenging as you desire. Can be done with minimal intrusion if neatness doesn't count. You'll need/want a splice at the slide box should it ever be removed. There are splices there for all cables. I don't know what the TV cabinet looks like in your model, but in ours the fireplace can be pulled out to facilitate bringing the cable up.
 
Wow. You know what's really fun?

I had it in the shop a couple of weeks ago, and I told them I didn't think the inverter ever turned off, even with the switch under the cabinet. They said the light was normal to stay on.

But, because I was trying to trace down what breakers were what (clearly my breaker box is completely mislabeled. It has breakers labeled fridge that clearly doesn't turn off the fridge. Then, I killed all the breakers, including the main, and I found the fridge and TV cabinet were still staying on. I toggled the inverter switch, and it still stayed on!

Because my 2 golf cart 6v batteries die on me every time I leave it at the dealer, despite using the factory battery disconnect, this morning I installed my own disconnect near the battery... Guess what? Inverter wired directly to battery, I can finally kill power to those circuits by killing the power at the battery.

So, looks like I need to try and squeak in one more trip under warranty, for potentially miswired circuits, and the inverter not turning off remotely.
 
Turns out there was a button on the inverter that was preventing it from turning off via the remote shutoff button ?.

At least now I can control things better.
 

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