RV surge protectors- wired vs post mounted, and modifying a post mounted one?`

Davidandkim

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May 27, 2019
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I'm in the process of a snowy, wet install of a victron 12v/3000 inverter/charger.

I've seen people recommending surge protectors. I guess the campground power supplies are less reliable than the home ones.

I see plenty on Amazon. I notice a huge price difference between the ones that attach to the power posts vs those wired into the system. To me, the obvious disadvantage of the power post ones are having to put it in, and theft. Having to lock it up is another pita I don't need.

I'm seriously considering buying one of the post mounted supplies and disassembling it and modifying it to incorporate into the internal wiring system. Any thoughts on this??? My electrical experience is a mile wide and a few inches deep (as I used to say about some of patient's gene pools). I do a lot of model trains, arduinos etc. Which are complicated, but 12v. Obviously now I'm dealing with wiring the victron and higher voltages, but I think I've got a good handle on that.

Thoughts???
 
I have gone with the wired EMS from Progresive for every install I've done( 5 of them).
Progressive DMS
Don't have to worry about theft. It has a wired remote to get any error codes. There is also a bypass switch if you ever need it.
One disadvantage is if you use a generator, you will get a floating ground error. just means the unit is not grounded separately. There is a easy fix of using a Neutral Ground Bonding Plug.
Neutral Ground Bonding Plug
hope this helps,
Brian
 
We also went with the hard wired progressive for our 303. Disconnected the inside wire from the outside plug and attached to the out of EMS. Bought 3 ft of wire and attached to plug and EMS in. Did not shorten the original wire so it could be reattached as original if needed.
 

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I've never seen or heard that the theft of an EMS is a real issue. I've yet to hear of a factual account, except for the "it happened to a friend of my cousins brother-in-law's sister". I don't worry about it and since I keep the EMS plugged into the power cord, forgetting it isn't an issue.

The only real issue I have with the hardwired ones, is the hassle of replacement when one fails. Sometimes they aren't mounted to be easily gotten to. :)
 
I'm seriously considering buying one of the post mounted supplies and disassembling it and modifying it to incorporate into the internal wiring system. Any thoughts on this??? My electrical experience is a mile wide and a few inches deep (as I used to say about some of patient's gene pools). I do a lot of model trains, arduinos etc. Which are complicated, but 12v. Obviously now I'm dealing with wiring the victron and higher voltages, but I think I've got a good handle on that.

Thoughts???

The Progressive Industries post mounted 50amp EMS is actually more expensive than the hard wired unit. Any reason why you particularly want to buy the more expensive EMS and then rebuild it? Also you lose the remote display.
 
Thanks everyone- I think I'll just get a post mounted one. First, they're cheaper, and second of all they have an easily read error code system- without hooking up to bluetooth. Maybe down the road. I had thought that theft might be a big problem, but really- there are a ton out there, and probably they're going to steal a more expensive one that I bought. If not, I can get a new one.
 
Thanks everyone- I think I'll just get a post mounted one. First, they're cheaper, and second of all they have an easily read error code system- without hooking up to bluetooth. Maybe down the road. I had thought that theft might be a big problem, but really- there are a ton out there, and probably they're going to steal a more expensive one that I bought. If not, I can get a new one.
JMO, but the cheap ones aren't much more good than none at all. If you're going to get one, get a full fledged EMS, not one of the cheaper "surge protectors". And the Hughes Watchdog, which is what I have, has a Bluetooth app for your phone that works very well, in addition to the outside display.
 
I’ll second the “Watchdog”. Ours is hardwired under the sink and we use the Bluetooth app also. Since we’re running only 30 amp system, it comes in handy at breakfast with the coffee pot, toaster and microwave fighting for juice.

We’re on the road again and our neighbor has one (model unknown) that he has chained to the service pedestal so some people think they may walk.
 
I’ll second the “Watchdog”. Ours is hardwired under the sink and we use the Bluetooth app also. Since we’re running only 30 amp system, it comes in handy at breakfast with the coffee pot, toaster and microwave fighting for juice.

We’re on the road again and our neighbor has one (model unknown) that he has chained to the service pedestal so some people think they may walk.
And forums, and Facebook, are what get people to thinking that. :) Even though there's little, to no, evidence to suggest it's an issue. :)
 
We have a Surge Guard pedestal version. I'm not sure I understand how this isn't any better than going without anything as stated in this thread, but whatever. Your decision on which way you go. If this one does walk off or dies, I will likely get the inline version but I won't dump this one just to get the other.

I lock things. Simply because I think it removes the quick grab and dash thieves. But after locking this thing for the first few trips I stopped messing with the lock and chain. After spending 6+ months on the road each of the past few years nobody has walked off with it yet. Maybe it's one of those things that nobody cares about.
 
We have a Surge Guard pedestal version. I'm not sure I understand how this isn't any better than going without anything as stated in this thread, but whatever. Your decision on which way you go. If this one does walk off or dies, I will likely get the inline version but I won't dump this one just to get the other.

I lock things. Simply because I think it removes the quick grab and dash thieves. But after locking this thing for the first few trips I stopped messing with the lock and chain. After spending 6+ months on the road each of the past few years nobody has walked off with it yet. Maybe it's one of those things that nobody cares about.
There are surge guards, and there is the SurgeGuard BRAND. The SurgeGuard brand can be a EMS, but some of the generic surge guards are not going to give anyone any protection from high voltage, low voltage, missing neutral, etc., unlike a genuine EMS.
 
I've been using the Southwire SurgeGuard pedestal. Like it and it now has BT embedded - unfortunately, my serial number couldn't be upgraded with BT by about two months.
 
I've used both types. We are currently using a Progressive Industries EMS pedestal version for a few reasons. One is it protects all of the wiring from the pedestal where a hardwired version only protects things downstream from the unit. Another was I don't have a really good place close to the trailer inlet to install a permanent unit that isn't near potential water leak points. Last had to do with the one I installed in our last trailer. To install the unit required me to remove the converter and it didn't have any room to work. I didn't want to go through that much work again.

We had a pedestal version EMS for our first trailer. I would lock it up at first but after a while stopped doing that. In the 6 years we owned that trailer we never had the EMS stolen or vandalized. We have used the PI pedestal EMS for the 1 1/2 years we have owned our current trailer and never locked it. Again it has never been stolen or vandalized. I don't doubt some people have their pedestal EMS units stolen but I don't think the risk is very high. When they are stolen it isn't just a walk-by theft but someone who had planned to rob a campground, someone who is likely to not let a cable or chain stop them.
 
I used to lock my pedestal mount EMS to the power cord but i quit fooling with it. I figured I was just encouraging them to steal my power cord along with the EMS. LOL
 
We have a Surge Guard pedestal version. I'm not sure I understand how this isn't any better than going without anything as stated in this thread, but whatever. Your decision on which way you go. If this one does walk off or dies, I will likely get the inline version but I won't dump this one just to get the other.

I lock things. Simply because I think it removes the quick grab and dash thieves. But after locking this thing for the first few trips I stopped messing with the lock and chain. After spending 6+ months on the road each of the past few years nobody has walked off with it yet. Maybe it's one of those things that nobody cares about.
It's because nobody will buy a used one. So they are not worth trying to steal. Think about it. If you want to protect your trailer, are you going to buy a used ems off somebody you don't know? Or you going to buy a new one with support and knowing it's new and that it works?
 
There are surge guards, and there is the SurgeGuard BRAND. The SurgeGuard brand can be a EMS, but some of the generic surge guards are not going to give anyone any protection from high voltage, low voltage, missing neutral, etc., unlike a genuine EMS.
Right on. The key is EMS versus surge protection only. Low voltage is way more common than a "surge".
 
I went with a hard wired PD. No packing around or worrying about someone stealing it and dealing with locking it up. Don't need to buy $$ another if stolen. Took 30 mins to hardwire mine in.
 

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I've used both types. We are currently using a Progressive Industries EMS pedestal version for a few reasons. One is it protects all of the wiring from the pedestal where a hardwired version only protects things downstream from the unit.
This is a debate that happens on virtually every RV forum out there - pedestal vs. hardwired. Yes, the pedestal version of a quality EMS will catch most electrical problems that occur before the power cord and hopefully trip in the event of a major surge. The only problem is that, more often than not, the power cord itself contributes to power issues.

Since one of the biggest issues, especially at older parks is low voltage (a silent killer of many RV appliances and components), you would want that EMS to be sampling the power as close to your breaker panel as possible. I can’t tell you how many times I have seen a corroded or burned plug that was not detected by a high priced EMS simply because the problem occurred downstream from the EMS. The voltage sampled by the pedestal EMS could be acceptable, however, the high resistance that was created by the bad connection in the plug can result in a significant drop in voltage as measured at the breaker panel.

Electrical adapters (dog bones) and extension cords all add resistance to the circuit, and all will drop the incoming voltage some, depending on the current draw. These things all eventually wear out - contacts become loose or corroded, wires break from bending and straightening. If you are vigilant about inspecting and maintaining electrical cords and adapters, you will most likely never have a problem with either type of EMS.
 

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