RVLock Fit Problems on 2023 Momentum

[ldb20151]

All,

We wanted to add keyless entry to our new Momentum. The reviews for RVLocks seemed great so I ordered 2 -- one for each of our entry doors. Unfortunately I've discovered a fit issue. Using their online selection guide, we purchased the new V4, standard model (not compact). When installed, there's a substantial gap at the top of the lock on both doors as shown in the attached picture. At first I suspected the door latch cutout/openings were oversized or not the proper rectangular shape (3.75"x 2.75"x1.5") but that's not the case. Both cutouts are correct. I spent most of the last 2-3 days trying various adjustments to "close the gap", but the picture below was the best I could do. At start the gap was a bit over 1/4" at its widest point, now its still just a bit under 1/4" at the widest point (as you can see its kinda triangular shaped).

So, I contacted RVLocks customer support for help. I had a lot of trouble contacting them. After a bunch of time on hold, I finally gave up and sent them an email. I received the following response from Maddie on the RVLocks customer support team:

"[FONT=&quot]Thank you for reaching out to RVLock, my name is Maddie and I would be happy to help you today![/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I apologize for this issue! We usually recommend using some silicone caulking around the edges for further water resistance and it looks like that will also fix the gap issue for you![/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Let me know if you have anymore questions/concerns. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Thank you![/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Maddie[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Customer Experience Associate"
[/FONT]​

[FONT=Lucida Grande, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]So basically -- they want me to ignore the fact that this doesn't fit properly and just caulk it! I know it doesn't show up well in the photo but this is a big gap. I can see into the lock mechanism. I could easily cut the wires on the electronic lock with a knife and a bit of effort. It probably wouldn't let a thief into my RV but I doubt I'd get in afterward either. A big blob of caulk, while water tight for now, isn't going to have the look I expect from a new RV and $400 in new locks. As you can probably tell, I'm disappointed by their response/solution.

Now that I have that off my chest, the real question is: has anyone else seen this problem? Anyone know of a better solution than just slathering caulk around the new locks? To their credit, RVLocks has agreed to allow me to return the locks for a refund (although they're making me pay ~$26 in fees, shipping etc). If there's a solution, I'd like to try it before I send them back. I have considered making a backing plate to cover the gap but I'm unsure if I have the tools to make a durable backplate. It would need to be very thin to work with this lock assembly.

If no professional, durable fix is available I will need to find another brand lock that will fit. Something closer to the original lock shape would be more likely to fit (squarish). Anyone know of a good numerical lock that might do the job?

Thank you in advance for any info you can provide.

v/r,
-Larry

[/FONT]

 

[trailrydr]

What lock did you have originally and how good did it fit? Where there any significant gaps? Does the gap also appear on the interior side as well?

There are other rectangular replacement locks which could fit and take up the gap. Unfortunately most aftermarket locks with that same shape (as the RVLock) may end up fiting the same way as the RVlock when aligned with the hole. If so and wanting to change out the locks may need to have a thin aluminum plate cut to take up any gaps at a local machine shop. A machine shop should be able to cut out the plate to take up the gap and follow the same pattern as the inner/outer edge of the lock but maybe a bit bigger all the way around.

 

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Well I think they have this issue frequently seeing as Maddie says they "usually" say to use caulking to fill the gap. I don't think you will have any way of filling/covering that gap that will look like a properly finished product. I would return the unit and while there is no lock on the door, measure the hole so you can determine what lock will properly cover the hole.
What comes to my mind seeing that gap is a less than upstanding individual could get a pry bar tip in there and pry open the lock assy.

 

[Rudiger]

Carmtek makes a square shaped lock that should cover the gap. Here's a YT review. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KcEUgsDw6kk&pp=ygUNcnYgZG9vciBsb2Nrcw==

 

[SolarPoweredRV]

Had the same problem, I returned the RV locks and still haven't gotten around to getting another lock.

I did see that Bauer makes an electronic lock. Bauer is the maker of the OEM lock on my coach, and probably 99% of all others, so I would hope for a better fit.

Please let us know if you buy the Bauer locks and how they fit.

PS: If you decide to keep the RV locks, I would recommend using Stainless Steel as a backer plate instead of aluminum.

 

[ldb20151]

What lock did you have originally and how good did it fit? Where there any significant gaps? Does the gap also appear on the interior side as well?

There are other rectangular replacement locks which could fit and take up the gap. Unfortunately most aftermarket locks with that same shape (as the RVLock) may end up fiting the same way as the RVlock when aligned with the hole. If so and wanting to change out the locks may need to have a thin aluminum plate cut to take up any gaps at a local machine shop. A machine shop should be able to cut out the plate to take up the gap and follow the same pattern as the inner/outer edge of the lock but maybe a bit bigger all the way around.

Hi trailrydr,
The original lock was whatever came standard on our Momentum. Of course, that lock fits perfectly. The door cutout is exactly 2.75" x 3.75" as specified by RVLock. I think the issue might be that on some doors, mine included, the latch cutout in the edge of the door where it meets the striker plate is offset in the downward direction; perhaps as much as 1/2". As a result, the RVLock is not centered over the cutout. Due to the shape of the RVLock, there's very little room for error in that regard. Any off center amount (up or down direction) risks uncovering the cutout at the edge of the lock as is happening to me. As you note, the original lock is very tolerant of this because its nearly the same shape as the cutout; thus overlaps by a very large margin on all sides.

I also considered using a backplate to solve this problem. I spent most of the day today cutting one from some scrap Aluminum I had available. It's not as easy to shape and cut as I hoped -- the RVLock is an unusual shape vs a simple geometric profile. I'm pretty happy with the final product and will let you know how it works after I try installing it. I'm a bit concerned that although its thin aluminum, it may still adversely affect the fit of the latch. Since the gap I need to fix is on the outside of the door (no gap at all on the inside) and the RVLock outside half is one-piece with the latch/deadbolt mechanism any backplate will act as a "shim" pulling the latch/deadbolt mechanism outward. This may prevent latching in the striker plate. There's some adjustment in that area, but I'm not sure how much. I don't think I can go with a thinner plate without having it bend with simple finger pressure. In my experience fingernails tend to catch on things when they shouldn't. I'm hoping I can find the sweet spot-- back plate thickness vs strength vs coverage.
I'll post results and pics as soon as I finish installation this week.

Thanks again for your suggestions.

v/r,
-Larry

 

[ldb20151]

Well I think they have this issue frequently seeing as Maddie says they "usually" say to use caulking to fill the gap. I don't think you will have any way of filling/covering that gap that will look like a properly finished product. I would return the unit and while there is no lock on the door, measure the hole so you can determine what lock will properly cover the hole.
What comes to my mind seeing that gap is a less than upstanding individual could get a pry bar tip in there and pry open the lock assy.

Scott'n'Wendy,
That was exactly my concern. In fact, a regular screw driver fits very nicely in the gap I have and I think it would be very easy to pries open the gap, enlarge it and access the lock mechanism directly. After all, the door is just made from thin aluminum clad foam! At least that's all there is in this area of my door. I'm quite sure it would be possible to use this method to pop my door open in about 2-min; caulk or no-caulk. Knowing what I do now about the way these locks fit and how they're built, I really question how secure they are. True -- its an RV, so how secure can it be? Still, the reason I'm spending $400 is to make it more secure, not less. I would bet the top area is a weak spot with all of these RVLock entry door installations. If people measured, I'd venture to say that -- at least with this V4 model -- even if there's no gap on a person's RV door lock, there's likely very little aluminum material under the top edge (about 1/2 way left to right). It wouldn't take much effort to pop a screwdriver in at that point and pop the lock. They really need to reinforce these locks to prevent tampering where unscrupulous individuals literally "go around" our high end digital door locks. As with sophisticated car ignition systems, manufacturers have discovered a low-tech screwdriver often trumps a high end lock or security system.

I have an amateur machine shot so will take a run at making a suitable back plate. I'll let folks know if it works.

v/r,
-Larry

 

[ldb20151]

Had the same problem, I returned the RV locks and still haven't gotten around to getting another lock.

I did see that Bauer makes an electronic lock. Bauer is the maker of the OEM lock on my coach, and probably 99% of all others, so I would hope for a better fit.

Please let us know if you buy the Bauer locks and how they fit.

PS: If you decide to keep the RV locks, I would recommend using Stainless Steel as a backer plate instead of aluminum.

Thanks for the great Alternate lock recos. I'll check them out. I am going to try this back plate I made but I'm unsure if it will work for reasons described above. The impact on security of the lock is the biggest concern. I may still return them. I'll definitely let people know.

BTW, why the concern about Aluminum backplate? Strength? I considered Stainless but it was harder to work with and unless you get marine grade stainless it will still rust, so I would need to find a high quality marine SAE 316 sheet stainless. I can order it but It'll take time to get.
Is there something I'm overlooking? If the Aluminum backplate works and looks good I may keep it unless there's an issue I'm overlooking.

v/r,
-Larry

 

[Bungy]

All,

We wanted to add keyless entry to our new Momentum. The reviews for RVLocks seemed great so I ordered 2 -- one for each of our entry doors. Unfortunately I've discovered a fit issue. Using their online selection guide, we purchased the new V4, standard model (not compact). When installed, there's a substantial gap at the top of the lock on both doors as shown in the attached picture. At first I suspected the door latch cutout/openings were oversized or not the proper rectangular shape (3.75"x 2.75"x1.5") but that's not the case. Both cutouts are correct. I spent most of the last 2-3 days trying various adjustments to "close the gap", but the picture below was the best I could do. At start the gap was a bit over 1/4" at its widest point, now its still just a bit under 1/4" at the widest point (as you can see its kinda triangular shaped).

So, I contacted RVLocks customer support for help. I had a lot of trouble contacting them. After a bunch of time on hold, I finally gave up and sent them an email. I received the following response from Maddie on the RVLocks customer support team:

"[FONT="]Thank you for reaching out to RVLock, my name is Maddie and I would be happy to help you today![/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#2B2E2F][FONT="]I apologize for this issue! We usually recommend using some silicone caulking around the edges for further water resistance and it looks like that will also fix the gap issue for you![/FONT]
[FONT="]Let me know if you have anymore questions/concerns. [/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#2B2E2F][FONT="]Thank you![/FONT]
[FONT="]Maddie[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#2B2E2F][FONT="]Customer Experience Associate"
[/FONT]​

[FONT=Lucida Grande, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]So basically -- they want me to ignore the fact that this doesn't fit properly and just caulk it! I know it doesn't show up well in the photo but this is a big gap. I can see into the lock mechanism. I could easily cut the wires on the electronic lock with a knife and a bit of effort. It probably wouldn't let a thief into my RV but I doubt I'd get in afterward either. A big blob of caulk, while water tight for now, isn't going to have the look I expect from a new RV and $400 in new locks. As you can probably tell, I'm disappointed by their response/solution.

Now that I have that off my chest, the real question is: has anyone else seen this problem? Anyone know of a better solution than just slathering caulk around the new locks? To their credit, RVLocks has agreed to allow me to return the locks for a refund (although they're making me pay ~$26 in fees, shipping etc). If there's a solution, I'd like to try it before I send them back. I have considered making a backing plate to cover the gap but I'm unsure if I have the tools to make a durable backplate. It would need to be very thin to work with this lock assembly.

If no professional, durable fix is available I will need to find another brand lock that will fit. Something closer to the original lock shape would be more likely to fit (squarish). Anyone know of a good numerical lock that might do the job?

Thank you in advance for any info you can provide.

v/r,
-Larry

[/FONT]

View attachment 49521

Sounds like you bought the wrong lock for your trailer.

 

[trailrydr]

On using Stainless vs Aluminum, I do agree that stainless maybe a better choice especially if going to go the machine shop route. Either way, would still use a fairly thin guaged material as both should hold up well to being painted (black?) and used as a backing plate for the lock. Would not think either would dimple with the fitment being so close to the correct size of using the OPs RVLock.

 

[Hoopy Frood]

Considering a medium/large sized screwdrliver could open about any door in an RV trailer in about 5 seconds, spending $400 will not make it more secure, if someone wants in, they will get in. When you put a
$200 lock in a 50 cent door, you don't make the door more secure. The more expensive lock latches in the same place using basically the same mechanism. What you gain is convenience. FWIW, if I put a new lock on the exterior door, I would certainly use sealant around it. It appears to me that a small-ish bead of sealant around that lock would hide the gap quite well. JMO of course.

 

[ldb20151]

Had the same problem, I returned the RV locks and still haven't gotten around to getting another lock.

I did see that Bauer makes an electronic lock. Bauer is the maker of the OEM lock on my coach, and probably 99% of all others, so I would hope for a better fit.

Please let us know if you buy the Bauer locks and how they fit.

PS: If you decide to keep the RV locks, I would recommend using Stainless Steel as a backer plate instead of aluminum.

SolarPoweredRV and all,

Thank you very much for the great feedback and suggestions. I did attempt to make a back plate from AC grade aluminum. I happen to have a well equipped, albeit amateur machine shop at my disposal so was able to cut one to fit the RVLock profile from the scrap aluminum sheet. It looked great but caused a little binding on the latch as I feared. With more tweaking and adjusting of the fit along the edge of the door I probably could have fixed it but I started to feel like every issue I fixed created another issue somewhere else. I really wanted an "install and forget" lock. So, I decided to give up on the back plate and return the RVLocks. Just too much work to make them fit my Momentum. I will say they appear to be very solid locks. Just not a good fit for our camper.

I looked at the Bauer and Carmtek locks mentioned. Again, both look like solid locks with big/happy customer followings. In the final analysis I decided to order two LatchIt brand Keyless Entry locks, Apex Edition, 2023. The features that sold me were:
- Family owned US based business just like RVLocks, with a loyal/happy customer following; good reviews
- All metal construction including the inside lock lever; the RVLock lever is plastic, otherwise they appear to have similarly solid construction
- full 10 digit keypad; keys are hard plastic and I think they'll hold up better than membrane or soft rubber keys used on some of the others in weather
- backlit keypad
- lock will accept code from 4-8 digits
- Sealed waterproof electronics module -- they say this is unique to LatchIt brand locks
- Manual keys provided are "keyed alike" if you order two locks at the same time; this isn't available on many locks
- best of all, the "footprint" on the outside of the door latch is very similar to the original latch; its square-ish vs the RVLock bullet shape and therefore easily covered the standard GD latch cutout with wide margins for a good seal (inside and outside of the door); NO GAP!

The only negative I've noticed so far is the lock beeper is pretty loud. I think I read it could be adjusted but I haven't found how to do it. I still need to verify this but if not adjustable its tolerable for me and wouldn't change my pick -- if an issue for you, you'll want to look into this before purchase. Also, as with all the locks I've seen, the electronic lock only secures the deadbolt -- not the handle latch. You can only lock the handle via mechanical key, but again I haven't found a lock that's any different. That's pretty annoying in my book. The OCD side of me really wants to secure the deadbolt AND the handle/latch, but Oh well. Most of the security comes from the deadbolt anyway.

So, at this point I have 2 LatchIt Apec Ed Locks installed on my 2023 Momentum and they're working great. From what I know today, I can definitely recommend them. Time will tell how they perform. Thanks again for everyone's help.

v/r,
-Larry

 

[WeirdAl]

SolarPoweredRV and all,

Thank you very much for the great feedback and suggestions. I did attempt to make a back plate from AC grade aluminum. I happen to have a well equipped, albeit amateur machine shop at my disposal so was able to cut one to fit the RVLock profile from the scrap aluminum sheet. It looked great but caused a little binding on the latch as I feared. With more tweaking and adjusting of the fit along the edge of the door I probably could have fixed it but I started to feel like every issue I fixed created another issue somewhere else. I really wanted an "install and forget" lock. So, I decided to give up on the back plate and return the RVLocks. Just too much work to make them fit my Momentum. I will say they appear to be very solid locks. Just not a good fit for our camper.

I looked at the Bauer and Carmtek locks mentioned. Again, both look like solid locks with big/happy customer followings. In the final analysis I decided to order two LatchIt brand Keyless Entry locks, Apex Edition, 2023. The features that sold me were:
- Family owned US based business just like RVLocks, with a loyal/happy customer following; good reviews
- All metal construction including the inside lock lever; the RVLock lever is plastic, otherwise they appear to have similarly solid construction
- full 10 digit keypad; keys are hard plastic and I think they'll hold up better than membrane or soft rubber keys used on some of the others in weather
- backlit keypad
- lock will accept code from 4-8 digits
- Sealed waterproof electronics module -- they say this is unique to LatchIt brand locks
- Manual keys provided are "keyed alike" if you order two locks at the same time; this isn't available on many locks
- best of all, the "footprint" on the outside of the door latch is very similar to the original latch; its square-ish vs the RVLock bullet shape and therefore easily covered the standard GD latch cutout with wide margins for a good seal (inside and outside of the door); NO GAP!

The only negative I've noticed so far is the lock beeper is pretty loud. I think I read it could be adjusted but I haven't found how to do it. I still need to verify this but if not adjustable its tolerable for me and wouldn't change my pick -- if an issue for you, you'll want to look into this before purchase. Also, as with all the locks I've seen, the electronic lock only secures the deadbolt -- not the handle latch. You can only lock the handle via mechanical key, but again I haven't found a lock that's any different. That's pretty annoying in my book. The OCD side of me really wants to secure the deadbolt AND the handle/latch, but Oh well. Most of the security comes from the deadbolt anyway.

So, at this point I have 2 LatchIt Apec Ed Locks installed on my 2023 Momentum and they're working great. From what I know today, I can definitely recommend them. Time will tell how they perform. Thanks again for everyone's help.

v/r,
-Larry

Larry
Did they key your new locks to your old key?

 

[ldb20151]

Larry
Did they key your new locks to your old key?

The short answer is "No". Not sure I understand your question. If you mean, can they match a GD lock -- that's a No.

As far as I've been able to tell, all of the major keyless entry systems use proprietary key types with their locks so it would be impossible to match the standard Grand Design locks. While it's nice to have "one ring to rule them all", I actually changed my entry door locks specifically to get away from the stock locks/keys. From what I've read, there are only a handful of keys used in these stock locks so the chances are very good that someone else's Grand Design RV key will open your RV; that is assuming you still have the original locks installed. I'm sure all the campground thieves are well aware of the key combinations they can use to open our campers.

Of course, no lock is bullet proof but proprietary keys means -- at least in the case of RVLock and LatchIt, no other keys out there that will open your door. Also, you can't have a copy made at your local RV repair shop or buy one on ebay. If you want another key, you must buy them from the LatchIt or RVLocks folks using the factory supplied key code. Each lock comes with 2 keys, 2 fobs and is programmable to be opened with the keypad using a 4-8 digit code.

Because this is a keyless lock, I expect to use the keypad 99% of the time -- not the hard key. So from a practical perspective, I still just have the one key to use on a daily basis and that's the GD key for the compartments.

If you were asking if LatchIt could match keys if you replaced all of your locks with their brand of proprietary locks, I believe the answer is yes, but I haven't confirmed it as yet. I'm told LatchIt (and RVLock) offer (or will soon offer) compartment slam latches and locks compatible with the Grand Design hardware. So, it should be possible to get these coded to match your entry locks when you buy them if you call them to order direct and give them your key code so they can match it. However, I have not yet done this. I need to measure my compartment locks before ordering but I do plan to place an order once I have the dimensions. I'll update once I have it complete.
v/r,
-Larry

 

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Larry
Did they key your new locks to your old key?

If I understand your question correctly, you would not want the new lock keyed to match your old keys. The added security of an aftermarket lock comes from not being keyed like other GD's, not the lock itself.

 

[gthomas]

Same lock, same issue, same response from RVLock.

 

[jeririgged223]

I have a Momentum 376TH........ first thing I did was put a keyless lock on it.
Here's what I bought and it works terrific. Never had an issue, even has an app so we sit in the car and unlock the door on those rainy days.
Bauer NE Bluetooth Keyless RV Entry Door Lock - Right Hand

i purchased it from rvupgradestore.com

 

[mjguth]

FWIW, Last summer I installed the RV Lock V4 on the main entry door my Imagine 2500RL. Also purchased the slam latch locks and regular entry door latch for the bedroom. All locks keyed the same and had little issue with installation or function. Planning our summer excursions and will be getting out soon!!!

Safe travels to all.

mjg

 

[ldb20151]

If I understand your question correctly, you would not want the new lock keyed to match your old keys. The added security of an aftermarket lock comes from not being keyed like other GD's, not the lock itself.

Scott'n'Wendy,

That's partly correct.
Sorry I'm not explaining this very well. It feels like we're still talking past each other a bit.
I'm not the expert but I believe the added security comes from both the unique lock/key combination you get with the proprietary keys used in the new "keyless entry" locks as well as from the uniquely cut key for your lock. Its very difficult to make a copy of your key because blanks are not readily available or as easy to cut, the new locks are all metal (at least my model is), and a handful of readily available stock GD keys cannot open your new keyless entry style lock. There may be other advantages. Those are the ones I know about.

One thing I learned when I got the RVLock and LatchIt locks is that the type of key they used is shaped very different from the original Grand Design keys. So, if you were able to get a key blank for either the original lock or the LatchIt lock it would be physically impossible to cut it to fit the other type of lock. The keys are just a very different shape. Its probably easiest to look at the keys and compare. LatchIt seems to be a bit cagey about showing their mechanical keys on their website but they do have a small picture that I've included here for reference. You may need to zoom it 500X to see how they're different than the standard compartment key but the difference is very significant. As I recall, there are similar differences to the RVLock style keys. I hope I'm tracking your question and that this helps. If I'm missing the point of your question, I apologize again.

Of course as has been pointed out, most RVs can be opened with a big screwdriver or crowbar no matter what lock we choose. I think the same could be said of many homes. Over the years I know I've had to "break" into my own home with not much more than a screwdriver in the way of tools because of a failed lock or lost keys. I can only speak for myself, but I do not intend to make it easy for any thief -- if they're gonna break-in, I'm gonna do my best to make sure they need to make some serious noise while they do it and take as long as possible to get inside. That's why I'm trying to pick a lock that'll hold up to use and the threats we know about (at least).

 

[ldb20151]

I have a Momentum 376TH........ first thing I did was put a keyless lock on it.
Here's what I bought and it works terrific. Never had an issue, even has an app so we sit in the car and unlock the door on those rainy days.
Bauer NE Bluetooth Keyless RV Entry Door Lock - Right Hand

i purchased it from rvupgradestore.com

View attachment 49600

Thanks! Good choice! I looked hard at these locks and came close to buying. As someone posted here, Bauer makes a lot of RV lock and has done for a LONG time. They have a solid reputation/reviews and the lock you mentioned had all the features I wanted. In the end, I went with the LatchIt lock because I'm not a big fan of the Bluetooth feature. The capabilities are nice to be sure but so many of the phone apps are terrible and lack support, don't work etc. I have no idea what security risk they may pose now or in the future. The same might be said of the fobs but the fob can be turned off on many locks. I was unable to tell if the Bluetooth function could be powered off so I went with the easiest choice for me. I admit, I'm more security conscious than the average person.
v/r,
-Larry