Should have never dropped the coroplast

Toy4Rick

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2021
Messages
418
Or maybe everyone should drop the coroplast...

Need to run 6AWG wire for my new converter and Lithium batteries and here is what I have found so far...

* Battery power wire from converter runs down under the trailer then to the passenger side and then back to the drivers side before going to the battery disconnect. Adding nearly 12-14' of extra wire
* The support strap for the fresh water tank hangs below the tank by 6-8"
* About 20 wires that run from the passenger side to the drivers side next to the fresh water tank are held up from sagging by the tag end of the fresh water strap. Meaning they are all just wearing thin on the sharp metal. Had to do 1 small repair already.

And this is what I can see in only the first 6' of coroplast

SMH

Good luck y'all

P.S. They did something similar with the bedroom light 12v, they went up the wall, across to the passenger side, taped it to a bunch of other wires, then ran it back to the first light which was only 24" from where they entered the roof.
 
Last edited:
Or maybe everyone should drop the coroplast...

Need to run 6AWG wire for my new converter and Lithium batteries and here is what I have found so far...

* Battery power wire from converter runs down under the trailer then to the passenger side and then back to the drivers side before going to the battery disconnect. Adding nearly 12-14' of extra wire
* The support strap for the fresh water tank hangs below the tank by 6-8"
* About 20 wires that run from the passenger side to the drivers side next to the fresh water tank are held up from sagging by the tag end of the fresh water strap. Meaning they are all just wearing thin on the sharp metal. Had to do 1 small repair already.

And this is what I can see in only the first 6' of coroplast

SMH

Good luck y'all

P.S. They did something similar with the bedroom light 12v, they went up the wall, across to the passenger side, taped it to a bunch of other wires, then ran it back to the first light which was only 24" from where they entered the roof.

While you are in there, get rid of the fiberglass insulation for good. Wear PPE . I use a full body suit and a full face respirator. The air you breathe will be filled with tiny fiberglass particles. Bad news for the lungs and eyes. I installed ridgid hard board polyisocronate insulation. It will not absorb water when you have a plumbing leak like fiberglass does, it also gas a much higher R rating. No need for a respirator either. I used as much as would fit. Then I reinstalled the coroplast in sections to make future work eaiser.
 
Yep, that all sounds par for the course. Keep looking and you'll continue to be bewildered by just how poorly these things are constructed and assembled. But I try to remember, it would take a pretty big truck to tow these things if they were built like a house.
 
While you are in there, get rid of the fiberglass insulation for good. Wear PPE . I use a full body suit and a full face respirator. The air you breathe will be filled with tiny fiberglass particles. Bad news for the lungs and eyes. I installed ridgid hard board polyisocronate insulation. It will not absorb water when you have a plumbing leak like fiberglass does, it also gas a much higher R rating. No need for a respirator either. I used as much as would fit. Then I reinstalled the coroplast in sections to make future work eaiser.
[MENTION=12888]huntindog[/MENTION], when you say you used as much as would fit, are you saying you installed more then 1 sheet in thickness before putting the coroplast back? If so how did you affix them together
 
Yep, that all sounds par for the course. Keep looking and you'll continue to be bewildered by just how poorly these things are constructed and assembled. But I try to remember, it would take a pretty big truck to tow these things if they were built like a house.

Being poorly built using lower quality parts, light weight parts...is one thing, these seems like pure laziness...
 
[MENTION=12888]huntindog[/MENTION], when you say you used as much as would fit, are you saying you installed more then 1 sheet in thickness before putting the coroplast back? If so how did you affix them together

Yes, more layers. Under the tanks got 1 or 2' layers Some places more than 6. I cut pieces to fit and was able to press fit/wedge them into place. Sort of like a giant jigsaw puzzle.1" = R 6.0-6.5 . I alternated pieces so the seams did not lineup together.
Probably averaged R18 or so plus whatever the coroplast adds. This is the second coach I did this on. It makes a huge difference in propane consumption when the mercury drops.
 
Last edited:
I have to drop mine since I have an issue with the fresh tanks leaking, I suspect the line that connects them.

Any advice or tricks or is it simply take out the screws and drop it? I will need to replace my insulation as it is wet. I like the idea of using the rigid boards.

2021 397.

Oldcow
 
Agree with [MENTION=34464]Scott'n'Wendy[/MENTION] just pull the screws, let it drop. You'll find it'll hangup everywhere that something passes through it to the underside and it can be a pain if you have to work around the axles. To reinstall I never needed assistance from anyone or jacks, just put the screw in the hole, raise it in place and drive it back in. However, the Imagine's do not have insulation in the belly so if yours does it makes sense a jack and boards or something would be helpful. Good luck!
 
I have to drop mine since I have an issue with the fresh tanks leaking, I suspect the line that connects them.

Any advice or tricks or is it simply take out the screws and drop it? I will need to replace my insulation as it is wet. I like the idea of using the rigid boards.

2021 397.

Oldcow

Wear PPE. I use gloves, a disposable body suit (Home depot sells them in the insulation dept.) and a full face respirator. You do not want those tiny fiberglass particles in your lungs and eyes. This task means it is overhead work. It WILL fall down on you.

I never reinstall it. When I take it out it goes in the bulk trash.
 
Apparently different models have different insulation. There is NO insulation in the belly of our Reflection 315 RLTS travel trailer. I was concerned about that, since so many posts talked about that, but no problems. Just a bunch of trash from the original manufacturing process. I'd suggest that you take our a couple of screws in a convenient spot and shine a flashlight into the opening. That will tell you all you need to know.
 
Reporting back

I cleaned up some wires, fixed the belly strap for the fresh water tank that was hanging down, moved a couple sets of wires from the tank straps...

Our 2022 2500RL has an insulated floor and does not have any insulation in the underbelly... dodged that one

Good luck y'all and be safe out there
 
Just taking a break. I have found both 10 and 8mm lag screws. I think I will replace them all with 10mm. The insulation is soaked. Now I have to find the problem.

Oldcow
 
Reporting back

I cleaned up some wires, fixed the belly strap for the fresh water tank that was hanging down, moved a couple sets of wires from the tank straps...

Our 2022 2500RL has an insulated floor and does not have any insulation in the underbelly... dodged that one

Good luck y'all and be safe out there

When you fixed the strap you didn't do it with an empty tank and cinch the strap up tight did you. When you fill the tank it will expand. If the strap is too tight that could be a problem.
 
My tank is broken att the top. I don't think I did but I must have filled it with the overflow valve shut.

Oldcow
 
My tank is broken att the top. I don't think I did but I must have filled it with the overflow valve shut.

Oldcow

Ouch.
I was afraid I would do that someday. That is why I tee'd in a raised vent line before the valves when I did mine. The tanks are always vented whether the valves are open or closed
 
Does anyone know the part number for a fresh water tank for a 2021 397 or some kind of reference number so I can start looking online?

Oldcow
 

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top Bottom