Should have never dropped the coroplast

A plastic welder may be an option. I have watched one repair a pressurized waterline at work. That was about 30 years ago. It is exposed to the weather, and is still holding
 
When you fixed the strap you didn't do it with an empty tank and cinch the strap up tight did you. When you fill the tank it will expand. If the strap is too tight that could be a problem.

Yes the tank was empty, I set the strap like the other one, it's not super tight, so either they are now both too tight or both just right :)
 
My tank is broken att the top. I don't think I did but I must have filled it with the overflow valve shut.

Oldcow

Is it worn through where the tank rests on the rails? Or, just a crack? If you can reach it, you might try marine adhesive caulk or a small tube of marine Goop. I use that stuff for fixing those 7 gallon blue plastic water jugs that always get banged around on my fishing trips and have had numerous leaks. The stuff holds tight once cured and I've never had them leak from the same spot once repaired. Would be a heck of a lot cheaper than a new tank. And if you can reach the area without removing it...added bonus.
 
A plastic welder may be an option. I have watched one repair a pressurized waterline at work. That was about 30 years ago. It is exposed to the weather, and is still holding

Is it worn through where the tank rests on the rails? Or, just a crack? If you can reach it, you might try marine adhesive caulk or a small tube of marine Goop. I use that stuff for fixing those 7 gallon blue plastic water jugs that always get banged around on my fishing trips and have had numerous leaks. The stuff holds tight once cured and I've never had them leak from the same spot once repaired. Would be a heck of a lot cheaper than a new tank. And if you can reach the area without removing it...added bonus.

I picked it up from the local shop this morning and took it to another shop that will repair it. It is cracked and busted pretty good on top, it needs professional attention. The repair cost is $450 CAD, I assume much cheaper than a new one shipped to me if an aftermarket one can be found. In any case, the decision is made and it will be repaired tomorrow.

How important is it to insulate? Will it really make that much difference? We do camp in 40 or so weather but not often and not for long. Is the floor insulated?

Oldcow
 
I picked it up from the local shop this morning and took it to another shop that will repair it. It is cracked and busted pretty good on top, it needs professional attention. The repair cost is $450 CAD, I assume much cheaper than a new one shipped to me if an aftermarket one can be found. In any case, the decision is made and it will be repaired tomorrow.

How important is it to insulate? Will it really make that much difference? We do camp in 40 or so weather but not often and not for long. Is the floor insulated?

Oldcow

The floor is insulated, but not in the garage. IMO, 40 is not cold enough to make the effort to insulate/
 
I picked it up from the local shop this morning and took it to another shop that will repair it. It is cracked and busted pretty good on top, it needs professional attention. The repair cost is $450 CAD, I assume much cheaper than a new one shipped to me if an aftermarket one can be found. In any case, the decision is made and it will be repaired tomorrow.

How important is it to insulate? Will it really make that much difference? We do camp in 40 or so weather but not often and not for long. Is the floor insulated?

Oldcow

If you do not camp in 32 and below, don't insulate. We routinely camp in 20's and 30's, lowest has been 17F. As long as the furnace is running the basement doesn't freeze. The only time we had a line freeze was at 17 overnight but once temps we in mid 20's the next day, the water line was fine. The freeze occurred where the low point drains allow cold to reach the T up in the belly. I resolved that issue with some mods and did add heat pads to all the tanks in case we get caught in sub 20's for extended period not by our choosing.
 
I have two holes that I need to patch (probably will be four after next repair) where the coroplast was cut to weld new hangers on. I looked up there expecting to see fiberglass insulation inside and can't see anything but the leftover wet rags that were stuffed during hanger welding. Somehow, I also have about a 1" diameter hole in the center middle - have no idea what might have hit there and looks like nothing up inside there either.
 
OMG, I did not see any fiberglass on my 2021 Imagine when I was down there.

On a related note, I did not enjoy squeezing 6 gauge through all the spaces the original 10g slid through!

I don't believe any of the Imagine line models have insulation in the belly, other than that foil liner that's supposed to reflect so much heat that you could go polar camping without a worry. :rolleyes:
 
My tank is broken att the top. I don't think I did but I must have filled it with the overflow valve shut.

Oldcow
New to this...filling a tank with an overflow valve shut will break the tank?

Edit: I just re-read that section in the manual and understand an overflow blocked or obstructed can cause damage to the plumbing. What I don't know is where the overflow valves are located. I'm also a bit confused as I would think the gravity fill would serve as a vent. Anyhow, completely guessing but interested.
 
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The overflow valves were installed at home on the over flow tubes below the Coloplast. They have none from the factory and is a MOD to avoid losing sloshing water during transport when the tanks are filled. I have yet to reinstall them :)

Oldcow
 
New to this...filling a tank with an overflow valve shut will break the tank?

Edit: I just re-read that section in the manual and understand an overflow blocked or obstructed can cause damage to the plumbing. What I don't know is where the overflow valves are located. I'm also a bit confused as I would think the gravity fill would serve as a vent. Anyhow, completely guessing but interested.
The overflow valves are not present from the factory. It's a mod you can do if you want. The gravity fill can also serve as a vent if you remove the cap before filling. But you either need to ensure the valve (if you install one) is open when using water, or make sure there is a vent tube next to the gravity fill. I've done so many mods that now I cannot remember if there was one, or if I modified mine. I installed a lockable door assembly for the gravity fill and that had a vent tube port built in. I'm thinking now that when I modified the overflow tube to add a valve and fix a leak, I added a "T" so I could have the valve on the lower vent tube and then ran the other side with tubing up to the vent port on the new gravity fill assembly I installed. I'm thinking there was not one next to the gravity fill port from the factory.
 
If you have a gravity fill. none of this applies to you.
The Nautilus system does not have a gravity fill. It has a pressure fill. So it comes from the factory with an overflow vent , a short blue piece of PEX plumbed into the side of the tanks (I have two FWT) near the top. This prevents the tank from being pressurized during the power fill.
A undesirable side effect is that this tube often siphones a lot of water out when under tow.
To prevent this a popular mod is to install shut off valves on the overflow tubes. If one forgets to open them when filling the tanks, or when using FW at camp, the tank will be damaged.
I did do this mod, but with a twist. I extended the overflows up into the propane compartments. I have a tee plumbed into the overflow. One output from the tee has the valve on it. The other output has the extension into the propane compartment. When the valve is open it operates as the factory built it. When the valve is closed the tank is vented into the propane compartment. this system is passive and is aways open to the atmosphere.
 
If you have a gravity fill. none of this applies to you.
The Nautilus system does not have a gravity fill. It has a pressure fill. So it comes from the factory with an overflow vent , a short blue piece of PEX plumbed into the side of the tanks (I have two FWT) near the top. This prevents the tank from being pressurized during the power fill.
A undesirable side effect is that this tube often siphones a lot of water out when under tow.
To prevent this a popular mod is to install shut off valves on the overflow tubes. If one forgets to open them when filling the tanks, or when using FW at camp, the tank will be damaged.
I did do this mod, but with a twist. I extended the overflows up into the propane compartments. I have a tee plumbed into the overflow. One output from the tee has the valve on it. The other output has the extension into the propane compartment. When the valve is open it operates as the factory built it. When the valve is closed the tank is vented into the propane compartment. this system is passive and is aways open to the atmosphere.
How can the tank be damaged if the valve is closed when using the trailer (Thinking maybe this was my mistake)? So you have a valve underneath and the teed section of pipe runs along the bottom of the cloroplast to the propane compartment?

Oldcow
 
If air cannot enter the tank as the pump sucks water out during use of faucets etc. the tank will implode

Yes what you are thinking about my setup is correct.
 
While you are in there, get rid of the fiberglass insulation for good. Wear PPE . I use a full body suit and a full face respirator. The air you breathe will be filled with tiny fiberglass particles. Bad news for the lungs and eyes. I installed ridgid hard board polyisocronate insulation. It will not absorb water when you have a plumbing leak like fiberglass does, it also gas a much higher R rating. No need for a respirator either. I used as much as would fit. Then I reinstalled the coroplast in sections to make future work eaiser.
Mine didn’t even need a pluming leak. After less than a year I noticed a sag in the coroplast. Pulling it down I found the fiberglass batts saturated but no leaks. It appeared that driving in the rain the wheels allowed water to splash up against the frame rail and subfloor. That wasn’t caulked so the water migrated through into the center where the insulation is. I pulled the coroplast replaced with rock wool (mineral wool) batt insulation which is also impervious to water, and replaced the coroplast. I did clean up some wiring routing and tank valve issues while I was under there. I also caulked the joint between the frame rail and subfloor along the outer edge to keep it from happening again.
So far, seems ok.
Everytime I dig into something I’m amazed at the low quality workmanship that is done by the manufacturer. I feel like so many of the problems could be avoided if just a more streamlined manufacturing method was employed. It doesn’t need to be more material or time. Just design for proper placement of everything and follow through on the line to make sure it gets put where it should be!
 
I was going to use rock wool.
I was loading it on my cart at Home Depot and realized how heavy it was.
I put it back and bought the Polyisocronate boards instead.
Light as a feather. I had to put weights on it to keep it from blowing away in a breeze
 

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