Have you checked the Grand Design parts lookup? https://www.granddesignrv.com/owners/resources/parts-lookup
I did not but I will. Thanks for the link.
Oldcow
Have you checked the Grand Design parts lookup? https://www.granddesignrv.com/owners/resources/parts-lookup
Since I have the auxiliary tank as well as the main tank, is a dual set up tank what I need if mine can not be fixed?
https://www.granddesignrv.com/owners/resources/parts-lookup
Oldcow
When you fixed the strap you didn't do it with an empty tank and cinch the strap up tight did you. When you fill the tank it will expand. If the strap is too tight that could be a problem.
My tank is broken att the top. I don't think I did but I must have filled it with the overflow valve shut.
Oldcow
A plastic welder may be an option. I have watched one repair a pressurized waterline at work. That was about 30 years ago. It is exposed to the weather, and is still holding
Is it worn through where the tank rests on the rails? Or, just a crack? If you can reach it, you might try marine adhesive caulk or a small tube of marine Goop. I use that stuff for fixing those 7 gallon blue plastic water jugs that always get banged around on my fishing trips and have had numerous leaks. The stuff holds tight once cured and I've never had them leak from the same spot once repaired. Would be a heck of a lot cheaper than a new tank. And if you can reach the area without removing it...added bonus.
I picked it up from the local shop this morning and took it to another shop that will repair it. It is cracked and busted pretty good on top, it needs professional attention. The repair cost is $450 CAD, I assume much cheaper than a new one shipped to me if an aftermarket one can be found. In any case, the decision is made and it will be repaired tomorrow.
How important is it to insulate? Will it really make that much difference? We do camp in 40 or so weather but not often and not for long. Is the floor insulated?
Oldcow
I picked it up from the local shop this morning and took it to another shop that will repair it. It is cracked and busted pretty good on top, it needs professional attention. The repair cost is $450 CAD, I assume much cheaper than a new one shipped to me if an aftermarket one can be found. In any case, the decision is made and it will be repaired tomorrow.
How important is it to insulate? Will it really make that much difference? We do camp in 40 or so weather but not often and not for long. Is the floor insulated?
Oldcow
While you are in there, get rid of the fiberglass insulation for good.
OMG, I did not see any fiberglass on my 2021 Imagine when I was down there.
On a related note, I did not enjoy squeezing 6 gauge through all the spaces the original 10g slid through!
New to this...filling a tank with an overflow valve shut will break the tank?My tank is broken att the top. I don't think I did but I must have filled it with the overflow valve shut.
Oldcow
The overflow valves are not present from the factory. It's a mod you can do if you want. The gravity fill can also serve as a vent if you remove the cap before filling. But you either need to ensure the valve (if you install one) is open when using water, or make sure there is a vent tube next to the gravity fill. I've done so many mods that now I cannot remember if there was one, or if I modified mine. I installed a lockable door assembly for the gravity fill and that had a vent tube port built in. I'm thinking now that when I modified the overflow tube to add a valve and fix a leak, I added a "T" so I could have the valve on the lower vent tube and then ran the other side with tubing up to the vent port on the new gravity fill assembly I installed. I'm thinking there was not one next to the gravity fill port from the factory.New to this...filling a tank with an overflow valve shut will break the tank?
Edit: I just re-read that section in the manual and understand an overflow blocked or obstructed can cause damage to the plumbing. What I don't know is where the overflow valves are located. I'm also a bit confused as I would think the gravity fill would serve as a vent. Anyhow, completely guessing but interested.
How can the tank be damaged if the valve is closed when using the trailer (Thinking maybe this was my mistake)? So you have a valve underneath and the teed section of pipe runs along the bottom of the cloroplast to the propane compartment?If you have a gravity fill. none of this applies to you.
The Nautilus system does not have a gravity fill. It has a pressure fill. So it comes from the factory with an overflow vent , a short blue piece of PEX plumbed into the side of the tanks (I have two FWT) near the top. This prevents the tank from being pressurized during the power fill.
A undesirable side effect is that this tube often siphones a lot of water out when under tow.
To prevent this a popular mod is to install shut off valves on the overflow tubes. If one forgets to open them when filling the tanks, or when using FW at camp, the tank will be damaged.
I did do this mod, but with a twist. I extended the overflows up into the propane compartments. I have a tee plumbed into the overflow. One output from the tee has the valve on it. The other output has the extension into the propane compartment. When the valve is open it operates as the factory built it. When the valve is closed the tank is vented into the propane compartment. this system is passive and is aways open to the atmosphere.
Mine didn’t even need a pluming leak. After less than a year I noticed a sag in the coroplast. Pulling it down I found the fiberglass batts saturated but no leaks. It appeared that driving in the rain the wheels allowed water to splash up against the frame rail and subfloor. That wasn’t caulked so the water migrated through into the center where the insulation is. I pulled the coroplast replaced with rock wool (mineral wool) batt insulation which is also impervious to water, and replaced the coroplast. I did clean up some wiring routing and tank valve issues while I was under there. I also caulked the joint between the frame rail and subfloor along the outer edge to keep it from happening again.While you are in there, get rid of the fiberglass insulation for good. Wear PPE . I use a full body suit and a full face respirator. The air you breathe will be filled with tiny fiberglass particles. Bad news for the lungs and eyes. I installed ridgid hard board polyisocronate insulation. It will not absorb water when you have a plumbing leak like fiberglass does, it also gas a much higher R rating. No need for a respirator either. I used as much as would fit. Then I reinstalled the coroplast in sections to make future work eaiser.