Side to side leveling

[210craig]

When I picked up my 397 the tech at the dealer said to make sure you are within a half a bubble on a level side to side. I know about the errors you can get if you extend the levelers to far. He said to carry a 2x12x8 and 2x8x6 for 3 inches lift. If that doesnt cut it move sites.

I thought I have carry around that much wood? I assume the plastic squares are not strong enough for the weight. What does everybody use for preliminary side to side before auto leveling?

 

[geotex1]

Anderson or Beech Lane levelers, wood, and the better lego-ish blocks will be the most common answers you will receive. There's endless debate about whether or not lifting tires off the ground on one side is ok for a short time.

 

[Ynot4me2]

I use the Anderson but I have a much lighter tt then yours. If you go that route best with the Beach Lanes.

Sent from my SM-P610 using Tapatalk

 

[210craig]

The beach do look heavy duty. Is anybody using them on a triple axle? I only ask because they talk about sawing them off. The triples are pretty close together.

 

[Richter]

We use the Andersen’s on our 303. I also have two sets of the lego-style, from Walmart (20 total). I usually put them under the landing leg and levelers, but have also used them, in a pinch, under the tires. I have a couple of short 2x12 pieces that I can put under them if on rocks or gravel that might not give them full and even support.

 

[210craig]

I have 4 or 5 sets of the plastics, just don’t know if they will hold this much weight. On the levelers I built 6 pads out of pressure treated 2x4s. Cut 9 pieces in 12 inch lengths, alternate them 3 high and added a handle. They are super strong and aren’t real heavy. I got the design off the internet. So I have the levelers covered. My triples with 17.5s are 6 feet long. So I would have to carry a 2x8 6 ft and a 2x12 maybe 7ft. That’s probably how I will start because the wood is cheap enough. If I figure something out I can always dump them. If I go the beaches I have to buy 2 sets at almost 200.00 and I’m not 100% sure that’s the way I want to go. Just starting out there is so much to buy, I’m looking for savings anywhere I can. Fortunately I have made the bigger purchases ( furrion camera system, watchdog ems, tst Tpms, washer/dryer, B&W companion hitch), I haven’t even started on what I need to secure the tri-glide in the garage.

 

[geotex1]

I have 4 or 5 sets of the plastics, just don’t know if they will hold this much weight. On the levelers I built 6 pads out of pressure treated 2x4s. Cut 9 pieces in 12 inch lengths, alternate them 3 high and added a handle. They are super strong and aren’t real heavy. I got the design of the internet. So I have the levelers covered. My triples with 17.5s are 6 feet long. So I would have to carry a 2x8 6 ft and a 2x12 maybe 7ft. That’s probably how I will start because the wood is cheap enough. If I figure something out I can always dump them. If I go the beaches I have to buy 2 sets at almost 200.00 and I’m not 100% sure that’s the way I want to go. Just starting out there is so much to buy, I’m looking for savings anywhere I can. Fortunately I have made the bigger purchases ( furrion camera system, watchdog ems, tst Tms, washer/dryer, B&W companion hitch), I haven’t even started on what I need to secure the tri-glide in the garage.

One way to help, follow the first rule of parking at a site - don't park till you've found the most level position possible. Since you're handy enough to build the pads for the levelers, I bet you can think of a way to link them together when you need them to run up on... It's very possible to do. Other options include recovery boards which may have multiple purposes for you, dunnage pads, sheet of marine grade plywood cut to planks that can stow flat, etc.

 

[BobKilmer]

I put some plastic blocks under the front since I have to lift it higher than normal to clear the Andersen Ultimate Hitch and let the leveling system handle the rest. I have only used plastic blocks on other jacks if the site is so unlevel the auto level can't handle it. I am in the camp of not worrying if the leveling system picks up the wheels while leveling.

 

[210craig]

I put some plastic blocks under the front since I have to lift it higher than normal to clear the Andersen Ultimate Hitch and let the leveling system handle the rest. I have only used plastic blocks on other jacks if the site is so unlevel the auto level can't handle it. I am in the camp of not worrying if the leveling system picks up the wheels while leveling.

I notice in your signature line (by the way how do you do that?) that you have Roadmaster Comfort Ride. You installed these and left the Cre300? You installed them yourself? I have a 2021 397 with the same basic setup.

 

[BobKilmer]

I notice in your signature line (by the way how do you do that?) that you have Roadmaster Comfort Ride. You installed these and left the Cre300? You installed them yourself? I have a 2021 397 with the same basic setup.

Hi 210craig,
To add a signature block you can select Settings on the top right of the forum page and then on the left side there will be a link to Edit Signature.

I installed both the Roadmaster Comfort Ride and the CRE3000 myself as an upgrade. In 2019 the 381s were shipped with the Lippert equa-flex suspension, no CRE3000 at that point. I installed the CRE3000 first, did a test drive, and then installed the Roadmaster shocks. I didn't notice a difference with the CRE3000, but I did notice a significant improvement in the ride with the Roadmaster shocks. I had to do the install myself because the local dealers were concerned about the warranty. The installation was pretty straightforward. The only difficult part was drilling into the frame for the bracket screws. I needed to buy multiple carbon steel drill bits to go through the frame, even titanium ones weren't good enough to get through the frame. Thankfully Home Depot had them in stock. I used the leveling system to lift the entire RV and then just used jack stands as a safety precaution.

 

[210craig]

Hi 210craig,
To add a signature block you can select Settings on the top right of the forum page and then on the left side there will be a link to Edit Signature.

I installed both the Roadmaster Comfort Ride and the CRE3000 myself as an upgrade. In 2019 the 381s were shipped with the Lippert equa-flex suspension, no CRE3000 at that point. I installed the CRE3000 first, did a test drive, and then installed the Roadmaster shocks. I didn't notice a difference with the CRE3000, but I did notice a significant improvement in the ride with the Roadmaster shocks. I had to do the install myself because the local dealers were concerned about the warranty. The installation was pretty straightforward. The only difficult part was drilling into the frame for the bracket screws. I needed to buy multiple carbon steel drill bits to go through the frame, even titanium ones weren't good enough to get through the frame. Thankfully Home Depot had them in stock. I used the leveling system to lift the entire RV and then just used jack stands as a safety precaution.

Thanks for signature thing. I'm definitely going to do it. Its a relatively inexpensive upgrade. Etrailer has it for $440 (7k axles) for the tandems and $265 for the extra axle. So for around $700 should be well worth it. I watched the Etrailer installation video and it wasn't clear. On the rear axle you placed the shocks toward the front or rear?

 

[BobKilmer]

Thanks for signature thing. I'm definitely going to do it. Its a relatively inexpensive upgrade. Etrailer has it for $440 (7k axles) for the tandems and $265 for the extra axle. So for around $700 should be well worth it. I watched the Etrailer installation video and it wasn't clear. On the rear axle you placed the shocks toward the front or rear?

The shock on the rear axle leans toward the front of the trailer, as does the one on the center axle. Only the front shock leans backwards.

 

[BobKilmer]

When installing the shocks I had to put a bend in the back drain pipe on the 381M. I used two 45 degree elbows and was able to keep the same slope as the original drain. Attached are two photos of the change I had to make.


I apologize for the pics being upside down! I did not turn the RV over for these pictures LOL

 

[lfytsmith]

First I have a large bubble level on my pin box. I use an Anderson style for my wheels to get level side to side. I then use the lego plastic style under my rear landing gear on the same side and height as I raised with the Anderson levelers. You do this so you do not get the dreaded out of stroke error. If you do not also put something under the landing gear there may not be enough landing leg length to hit the ground and level.

 

[BobWestdorp]

We are new to auto levelers. Could you verify or correct? We get as level as possible front to back (what is the max. difference between them?), then we level side to side (with in 1/2 bubble) and THEN we use the levelers?

Our 303 RLS FW directions only say to get as level as possible, "park on level ground", then use the level system front to back. Nothing about side to side.

 

[210craig]

You are mostly looking side to side. Plenty of discussion around here about wheels off the ground. Some dont care others think its a mortal sin. Front to back it will level as long as you dont let the levelers get too long. Then you get out of stroke errors. Most just stack up the lego blocks or andersens or whatever you have to keep the levelers as short as possible. I have mine parked on a slight incline right now. Stacked up the blocks on the rears put her nose up hit the button she leveled right out.

 

[BobWestdorp]

Thanks 210 Craig! That makes sense. I don't like the idea of lifting tires with the jacks and will continue to level side to side prior to front back leveling. And thanks for asking about the signature thing. I was wondering about that too.

 

[210craig]

I forgot to mention if you go to the tech area there is a section dedicated to levelers. Lots of good info and comments by folks who have a ton of experience with them.