Slide 120VAC Electric Connectors - Solid NM-B to Flexible SO Type Cord

[gbkims]

I was doing more maintenance on my Reflection
Under the Living Room/Dinette Slide I saw 3 connectors that join the 120VAC solid romex NM-B to Flexible SO type cord for the slide's power.
There is a connector for the solid wires and one for the stranded wires and they plug together.
One of the clamshell type didn't look fully closed. I couldn't get it to snap closed so opened it carefully lifting the side locking clips with small tweaker screwdriver.
I found the wires weren't routed in the connector around guide posts & was not able to fully closed b/c wires were laid on top of the guide posts.
The white neutral wire was barely into the Insulation Displacement Contact (IDC) and the black wire had insulation skinned off.
Cut the romex back & reterminated, used a C clamp with flat metal to act as a clamping device on the connector halves.
Found 2nd connector had a bent contact, straightened it.
Found 3rd connector had white wire too long & partly forced connector open.
Fixed these and put back in the underbelly.
Looked like these connectors are partly relying of the connector being snapped fully closed to maintain pressure on the wire into the IDC.

I think these wires feed the TV, Fireplace, and outlets.

So if you have any problems with any of the slide's 120VAC power, might check on these connectors as one of the causes.

After a couple hours looking I found what mfgrs call these:
Molex - Self-Contained Power Connector (SCPC) http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0190451000_IO_CONNECTORS.xml#documentsAnchor
Tii Technologies - TSCC Self-Contained Power Connector System
Tii had couple of youtube videos showing how the connectors are wired for field or factory:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrVIy11euaU

 

[arhayes]

Great info!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[offtohavasu]

I was doing more maintenance on my Reflection
Under the Living Room/Dinette Slide I saw 3 connectors that join the 120VAC solid romex NM-B to Flexible SO type cord for the slide's power.
There is a connector for the solid wires and one for the stranded wires and they plug together.
One of the clamshell type didn't look fully closed. I couldn't get it to snap closed so opened it carefully lifting the side locking clips with small tweaker screwdriver.
I found the wires weren't routed in the connector around guide posts & was not able to fully closed b/c wires were laid on top of the guide posts.
The white neutral wire was barely into the Insulation Displacement Contact (IDC) and the black wire had insulation skinned off.
Cut the romex back & reterminated, used a C clamp with flat metal to act as a clamping device on the connector halves.
Found 2nd connector had a bent contact, straightened it.
Found 3rd connector had white wire too long & partly forced connector open.
Fixed these and put back in the underbelly.
Looked like these connectors are partly relying of the connector being snapped fully closed to maintain pressure on the wire into the IDC.

I think these wires feed the TV, Fireplace, and outlets.

So if you have any problems with any of the slide's 120VAC power, might check on these connectors as one of the causes.

After a couple hours looking I found what mfgrs call these:
Molex - Self-Contained Power Connector (SCPC) http://www.molex.com/molex/products.../0190451000_IO_CONNECTORS.xml#documentsAnchor
Tii Technologies - TSCC Self-Contained Power Connector System
Tii had couple of youtube videos showing how the connectors are wired for field or factory:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrVIy11euaU
View attachment 7982View attachment 7983View attachment 7984View attachment 7985View attachment 7986

I'd feel much more comfortable if those were lugs vs. those things. Too much of an opportunity for a loose connections creating heat.

 

[gbkims]

Yep heat on a loose connection would be primary concern. I didn't see any indication of wires getting warm, no insulation color change.

At home I swap out the old push-in 120V outlets with back fed screw clamp type.

I've used IDCs at work, but that was for telecom 24 awg phone punch down blocks 66/110 type.

 

[arhayes]

+1 on lugs or a more permanent connection for 120v. Molex or Powerpole type connectors are fine for 12v use, but for 120 in a moving/shaking vehicle - nope.


Alan

 

[steve gravelle]

We had an issue with a bad odor of burnt wires about a year ago, and called a mobile RV repair company. The microwave breaker had tripped. He tore apart the lower panel on the street side slide near the rear on our 337 Reflection and found the Molex wiring connector for the microwave wiring crisply incinerated. He put on a household junction box. His advice was to not use the microwave on less than 30 amp. supply, the voltage drop increased the amperes caused the problem.

 

[Cate&Rob]

If you have ever had the "opportunity" to look inside any of the 120VAC outlets, you will find the same technology.
Lay the three wires (without stripping the insulation) over brass jaws and use the back of the outlet assembly to push the wires down between the jaws . . . that's it. The outlets do have UL and CSA cert markings . . . hard to believe.

Rob

 

[offtohavasu]

We had an issue with a bad odor of burnt wires about a year ago, and called a mobile RV repair company. The microwave breaker had tripped. He tore apart the lower panel on the street side slide near the rear on our 337 Reflection and found the Molex wiring connector for the microwave wiring crisply incinerated. He put on a household junction box. His advice was to not use the microwave on less than 30 amp. supply, the voltage drop increased the amperes caused the problem.

The voltage wouldn't be affected by the size of the 20 amp breaker. Meaning, just because you're on 20 amps. you're not going to have voltage drop. If you're drawing more amps than 20, the breaker will trip. What caused the problem is there was a loose connection and heat built up due to the resistance. This is why I mentioned earlier in this post about heat built up. Believe it or not, you'll find this same thing in home applications when someone doesn't tighten the screws on outlets. Heat builds up due to the poor connection and starts melting the outlet.

 

[steve gravelle]

Curtis, appreciate your clarification/correction.

 

[offtohavasu]

Curtis, appreciate your clarification/correction.

Of course Steve. Just want to make sure you had all the information and didn't want you to be limited.

 

[offtohavasu]

Here is the installation tool:

http://www.hubbell-wirecon.com/literature/WCLB001_Wirecon_Brochure.pdf#page=3

Here are the outlets:

http://www.hubbell-wirecon.com/literature/WCLB001_Wirecon_Brochure.pdf#page=4

Here is the video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tuo2EFKfJ58

 

[Jerryr]

These are self contained receptacles with no electrical box needed.

Hubbell is a well known first class provider of electrical equipment.

 

[Cate&Rob]

Curtis,

Thanks for finding all the details on the hubbell-wirecon outlets and tool.
Looks pretty easy with the production tool . . . as with most things .
It can be done with a flat blade screw driver . . . slowly, carefully and with application of appropriate choice words.

I found two of these popped apart in my trailer. One with two wires went back together after I pressed the wires deeper into the jaws. The one with three wires was a particular PITA and without the right tool, there was no way it was going back together. (Apparently, even with the right tool, it didn't stay together the first time either.) GD did leave lots of wire, so I installed a junction box to bring the 3 wires together and then just a single wire to the outlet.

I can definitely see where these save time during production, but they are not "user friendly" if you need to replace one without the fancy tool.

Rob

 

[gbkims]

Curtis,

For sure, thanks for the Wirecon outlet info. I've seen one in the cargo pass through and didn't even realize it yet.
That'll save me hunting down what they are.
Took me awhile to find the SCPC b/c I didn't see a mfgr name or part number I could cross reference.

Gene

 

[offtohavasu]

Curtis,

For sure, thanks for the Wirecon outlet info. I've seen one in the cargo pass through and didn't even realize it yet.
That'll save me hunting down what they are.
Took me awhile to find the SCPC b/c I didn't see a mfgr name or part number I could cross reference.

Gene

You're welcome Gene. You can go to the link below is from GD website. On many products, they don't give the manufacturer part number, but with some luck you can decrypt what they have to figure out the part.


Link: https://www.granddesignrv.com/owner-support/service-and-warranty/parts-lookup

 

[offtohavasu]

These are self contained receptacles with no electrical box needed.

Hubbell is a well known first class provider of electrical equipment.

Not to mention, given the fact every issue is discussed on here, no matter how minor, and I can think of maybe one or two issue with outlets.

 

[gbkims]

Good to hear on the outlets, not looking to fix if not broken.

Hubbell was definitely the go-to for electrical plugs/connectors, along with Cooper/Crouse-Hinds for other equipment in my line of work.

Thanks for the GD parts lookup link.

Gene

 

[Cate&Rob]

I was doing more maintenance on my Reflection
Under the Living Room/Dinette Slide I saw 3 connectors that join the 120VAC solid romex NM-B to Flexible SO type cord for the slide's power.
There is a connector for the solid wires and one for the stranded wires and they plug together.
One of the clamshell type didn't look fully closed. I couldn't get it to snap closed so opened it carefully lifting the side locking clips with small tweaker screwdriver.
I found the wires weren't routed in the connector around guide posts & was not able to fully closed b/c wires were laid on top of the guide posts.
The white neutral wire was barely into the Insulation Displacement Contact (IDC) and the black wire had insulation skinned off.
Cut the romex back & reterminated, used a C clamp with flat metal to act as a clamping device on the connector halves.
Found 2nd connector had a bent contact, straightened it.
Found 3rd connector had white wire too long & partly forced connector open.
Fixed these and put back in the underbelly.
Looked like these connectors are partly relying of the connector being snapped fully closed to maintain pressure on the wire into the IDC.

I think these wires feed the TV, Fireplace, and outlets.

So if you have any problems with any of the slide's 120VAC power, might check on these connectors as one of the causes.

After a couple hours looking I found what mfgrs call these:
Molex - Self-Contained Power Connector (SCPC) http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0190451000_IO_CONNECTORS.xml#documentsAnchor
Tii Technologies - TSCC Self-Contained Power Connector System
Tii had couple of youtube videos showing how the connectors are wired for field or factory:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrVIy11euaU
View attachment 7982View attachment 7983View attachment 7984View attachment 7985View attachment 7986

Hi Gene,

I realize that this is a really old thread, but I just wanted to thank you for the detailed info in post 1. This is what is currently going on with the power feed to our fireplace. I am thinking of replacing the two halves of this connector with regular weatherproof 15A plug and socket. What do you think of this idea? . . . or can you think of an (easily available) better way?

Rob

 

[gbkims]

Hi Gene,

I realize that this is a really old thread, but I just wanted to thank you for the detailed info in post 1. This is what is currently going on with the power feed to our fireplace. I am thinking of replacing the two halves of this connector with regular weatherproof 15A plug and socket. What do you think of this idea? . . . or can you think of an (easily available) better way?

Rob

Hi Rob,
I don't have a good answer for this.
I don't like the IDC connectors, they seem not to make good connections to the solid wire.
Doesn't help the installers don't understand how to properly terminate them.
I did strip back the wire insulation in the other two sets of connectors behind the fireplace and add solder were the wires insert into the jaws.
For the Fireplace, I installed a cord connector like you pictured and just plugged in the fireplace's cord.
Since flexible SO cord was already being used, a cord connector designed for stranded wire would work.

Where it gets tricky is terminating the solid romex with a cord plug or connector, probably that's a NEC violation.
But the cord plug/connector screw clamp connections are better than the IDC.

 

[GENESIS]

I too found this (older) thread very informative. But I just couldn't turn off that voice in my head that was saying, "And how many times Tom did you go to the production shop floor for a parts not fitting issue or the shop order instructions were all eff'd up; only to find that either someone was taught wrong or the installation tool wasn't being used or a precision designed jig had been modified or folks (literally) couldn't read English or......" Well, you get the picture.

I'll do a free saw chain sharpening AND tune your saw to the first person that can produce a photo of any of those specialized electrical installation tools being used in the GD factory. And I'm not gonna even go there with the question of whether that Tii training video is part of a GD production person's training.

Tom