Solar for Dummies - Guidance, Help

Steven@147

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Dummies like me! In keeping with my ideas of "keep it simple", "keep it economical". I have been looking at suitcase style 100 W @ 7 amp solar panels and figuring out what would be needed to hook up minimum solar power to our 100 ah Lithium battery. This would be just in case, bare minimum battery maintaining/recharging, in case of a power outage and didn't want to, or couldn't run our generator.

Now i am a complete novice at solar but I've been reading and researching, (dangerous I know)I put together two scenarios of the components I think would be needed. I saw a Youtube comparison of the HF and Renogy 100w panels and it looked like the HF solar panel did a little better than the Renogy. I would like you more experienced solar guys to comment.


First Scenario, mix and match
$149.99 - Harbor Freight Thunderbolt 100W Monocrystalline Solar Briefcase, 14-22 VDC 100W 7 amp, 16 awg wire SAE connectors
$13.99 - Thunderbolt Solar Cable Kit W multiple style SAE connectors, 16 awg wire
$18.99 Renogy Wander Charge Controller, 10A 12 awg wire, 130W/12V, 260W/24V (HF Charge Controller isn't very good) I like this Renogy controller because it provides much more versatile connections, like for cell phones.
https://www.harborfreight.com/100-watt-solar-panel-briefcase-57991.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/solar-power-connection-cable-kit-59171.html
https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Wande...65047a23f64ae2f3dc850d19a20&gad_source=1&th=1


Scenario Two complete all in one
$199.99 Renogy 100W Suitcase Style Monocrystalline Solar Panel, includes 20A Voyager Charge Controller and 14 awg wiring harness with MC4 weatherproof connectors. It doesn't look like the wiring harness is very long.
https://www.renogy.com/100-watt-12-...oaAn8lEALw_wcB&r_u_id=6302007725&gad_source=1

Quick and easy set up for both scenarios on campsite. HF panel folds up nice with a canvas case. Both kinds would fold up and store nice in pass-through cargo hold. Renogy does not provide a lot of detailed info on their product. HF is everywhere is case of failure for swap out. I could get a MC4 kit and change out the HF SAE connectors. Looks like either can provide @ 7amps. What do you more experienced guys think?
 
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For a couple of reasons, I would go with the Renogy. 1st: The Renogy kit has better cables and could more easily support extensions. 2nd: The Renogy kit is made to work together. I've had a few Renogy products over the years, which have worked well.
 
I also have several Renogy products and they have worked very well and seemed to be well built. I also agree with Soundsailor about the fact the Renogy products are designed to work together.
 
From the Renogy website:

I would mount the controller inside the front cargo hold next to the battery. I think I would take out the Lippert solar plug on the front panel next to the front cargo hold and run the solar wiring through there. I haven't done anything about purchasing a solar suitcase panel but I appreciate y'alls input. I would purchase the Renogy product through.
 
[MENTION=8842]Steven@147[/MENTION]

I'm interested in doing the same thing you are considering. Is the cable between the panel and controller long enough to allow mounting the controller in the trailer? Renogy has several kits and it looks like some come with weatherproof controllers and others do not.

I was first looking at buying individual components, but I'm not sure about compatibility or sizing the panels/controller. The kit looks like a cheaper option and guarantees compatibility.
 
I'm interested in doing the same thing you are considering. Is the cable between the panel and controller long enough to allow mounting the controller in the trailer? Renogy has several kits and it looks like some come with weatherproof controllers and others do not.

I have the 200-watt solar suitcase from Renogy (very well-made). The controller is mounted to the back of the solar panels but could easily be removed and mounted near your batteries (or anywhere inside the trailer).
 
[MENTION=8842]Steven@147[/MENTION]

I'm interested in doing the same thing you are considering. Is the cable between the panel and controller long enough to allow mounting the controller in the trailer? Renogy has several kits and it looks like some come with weatherproof controllers and others do not.

I was first looking at buying individual components, but I'm not sure about compatibility or sizing the panels/controller. The kit looks like a cheaper option and guarantees compatibility.

Well the 100W I was looking at did say it was waterproof and it uses the MC4 waterproof connectors. I was looking at the suitcase kind so it could fold up and stow in the cargo hold pretty easy. It is kind of heavy though. I don't know how long the wires are to be able to move the controller in the cargo hold, they don't say. The controller is listed as 20 amp and the one suitcase panel is only @ 7 amps so the controller this product comes with might handle two suitcase solar panels and still stay under the 20amp rating of the controller.

One thing I don't like about the Renogy, there is very little detailed information about their product. The cable kit it comes with says it's @ 7.5 feet. I would ditch the alligator clips and use ring terminals to connect to the battery posts.
They do list on their site extension cables with MC4 connectors 10 and 12 gage wire, but they are out of stock and kind of expensive.

I suppose one could get this MC4 connector kit with the wrenches and make up your own extension cables. For $29 it would be worth it, just buy some hunks of 12/14 gage wire and make up your own.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078B7N3W...EFS466GVAR8?linkCode=ml1&tag=johnny5dahlbe-20
 
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On a similar note, I have a 2018 21 XLS BH that has a Furrion "Solar Ready" port on the side that will accept an 95W/10 amp solar panel. Has anyone plugged a system into this port, and if so, what did you use?
Thanks!
 
On a similar note, I have a 2018 21 XLS BH that has a Furrion "Solar Ready" port on the side that will accept an 95W/10 amp solar panel. Has anyone plugged a system into this port, and if so, what did you use?
Thanks!

Is this what you are looking for? MC4 weatherproof connectors
https://www.amazon.com/iGreely-Indu...848de3f4dbab289c40be9df04&psc=1&tag=hyprod-20


Here is a cable with the SAE connector
https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai...7WWnPCGAxX35ckDHTcbBakQ9aACKAB6BAgCECw&adurl=

Both are 10awg wire
 
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Dummies like me! In keeping with my ideas of "keep it simple", "keep it economical". I have been looking at suitcase style 100 W @ 7 amp solar panels and figuring out what would be needed to hook up minimum solar power to our 100 ah Lithium battery. This would be just in case, bare minimum battery maintaining/recharging, in case of a power outage and didn't want to, or couldn't run our generator.

Now i am a complete novice at solar but I've been reading and researching, (dangerous I know)I put together two scenarios of the components I think would be needed. I saw a Youtube comparison of the HF and Renogy 100w panels and it looked like the HF solar panel did a little better than the Renogy. I would like you more experienced solar guys to comment.


First Scenario, mix and match
$149.99 - Harbor Freight Thunderbolt 100W Monocrystalline Solar Briefcase, 14-22 VDC 100W 7 amp, 16 awg wire SAE connectors
$13.99 - Thunderbolt Solar Cable Kit W multiple style SAE connectors, 16 awg wire
$18.99 Renogy Wander Charge Controller, 10A 12 awg wire, 130W/12V, 260W/24V (HF Charge Controller isn't very good) I like this Renogy controller because it provides much more versatile connections, like for cell phones.
https://www.harborfreight.com/100-watt-solar-panel-briefcase-57991.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/solar-power-connection-cable-kit-59171.html
https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Wande...65047a23f64ae2f3dc850d19a20&gad_source=1&th=1


Scenario Two complete all in one
$199.99 Renogy 100W Suitcase Style Monocrystalline Solar Panel, includes 20A Voyager Charge Controller and 14 awg wiring harness with MC4 weatherproof connectors. It doesn't look like the wiring harness is very long.
https://www.renogy.com/100-watt-12-...oaAn8lEALw_wcB&r_u_id=6302007725&gad_source=1

Quick and easy set up for both scenarios on campsite. HF panel folds up nice with a canvas case. Both kinds would fold up and store nice in pass-through cargo hold. Renogy does not provide a lot of detailed info on their product. HF is everywhere is case of failure for swap out. I could get a MC4 kit and change out the HF SAE connectors. Looks like either can provide @ 7amps. What do you more experienced guys think?

I would recommend a 200 watt set up. I have two 100 watt portable suitcase solar panels. Each panel puts out not much more then 5 amps at full Arizona sun. I have never seen more then 10.5 amp peak output using both panels. Maybe a better mppt controller, rather then the stock built in controller would do better but, you really should go with more amperage output to your battery. You would also do yourself a favor by having more then one house battery anyway. Also your MC4 Cables should be a minimum of 12 agw wire. I run my two suitcase solar panels direct to my battery bank. Simple set up. That part anyway. I also have 360 watts of solar on the roof. That's another setup story.
 
My 2019 303 rls came with the furrion port. I think the wiring to the batteries and furrion port was 14 gauge. I replaced it with 10 or 12 gauge. Then I bought a 25ft extention cord in 12 gauge and wired the furrion plug for the trailer end and a Anderson connector for the solar panel end. It works great.
 
Yeah, I am still assessing and reassessing and researching our options for just in case backup. Once we get the refrigerator mod done with the 12VDC dual compressor mod, it will pull somewhere in the neighborhood of 11.6 amps drawing full power they say. Other owners that have had the mod done report around 12.6 amps full load. So let's call it 12 amps total full load of the modified fridge. Now the fridge isn't going to pull 12 amps full load all the time with both cooling compressors running, but it's an estimate I using adding up the 12VDC load.

I've tested our AC units and they pull @ 10-11 amps 120VAC each. So if grid power fails our genny might see in the neighborhood of 23-25 amps with the fridge running 12VDC off the converter sucking up AC power and one AC unit running +- 1,3 amps for other devices. Can't be positive about the power numbers until a person actually tests it out, but it's gonna push a 30 amp genny.

People who have bought the Renogy suitcase 100W solar panel report in their reviews seeing 6 - 6.5 amps charge to the battery. It weighs @ 25#. Well obviously one suitcase 100W solar panel isn't going to provide enough power to handle our estimated 12VDC load, let alone the load from the 12VDC fridge and help charge the battery.

I've thought about adding a second LifePo4 battery but I think we will wait until we get the fridge mod done and get some more accurate load numbers before doing or adding anything else.

Got my lithium batt working and the external 20 amp lithium charger installed, a supplement for the WFCO AD converter. I used some rubber feet as shock mounts. Also I think helps with air circulation around it, it gets kind of warm when charging the lithium battery. I did the same thing to our WFCO converter shock mounts, and I think it has help its longevity.
 

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Thank you for the info, any idea on what panels to use. I was thinking a 100w Renogy.

I was looking at a Renogy 100W suitcase and they have a complete package for $200. I saw a comparison on YouTube with the Renogy, that is how I got on to it. The guy was comparing it to a Harbor Freight 100W suitcase. I am sure there are others out there just haven't looked at other brands yet.
 
I was looking at a Renogy 100W suitcase and they have a complete package for $200. I saw a comparison on YouTube with the Renogy, that is how I got on to it. The guy was comparing it to a Harbor Freight 100W suitcase. I am sure there are others out there just haven't looked at other brands yet.


Thank you!
 
The Renogy kits come in a "premium" version that has mounting brackets, in-line fuses, and a bluetooth module for a few dollars more. I need this for home use with a single 100ah battery so I really don't need the suitcase style panels, but they may be available in this kit.

I've definitely decided that a MPPT controller is a must in a single battery system.

I have a LifePo4 question. I've read where these batteries should be stored at about 50-60% state of charge. Why is this reduced charge necessary? If they were stored connected to the panels and controller I would assume they would be kept at full charge.
 
The Renogy kits come in a "premium" version that has mounting brackets, in-line fuses, and a bluetooth module for a few dollars more. I need this for home use with a single 100ah battery so I really don't need the suitcase style panels, but they may be available in this kit.

I've definitely decided that a MPPT controller is a must in a single battery system.

I have a LifePo4 question. I've read where these batteries should be stored at about 50-60% state of charge. Why is this reduced charge necessary? If they were stored connected to the panels and controller I would assume they would be kept at full charge.

I have wondered about this also. My storage lot gets full sun to keep my 100ah lithium battery charged.
 

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