Solar panel brackets

[Oldcow]

I read on this forum and others that z brackets, channel rails, AM solar brackest are all used. Am I right to assume it really is a matter of preference?

I will be installing 8 Eco Worthy 195W panels on my 397. Z brackets seem to be the easiest way to install but I would think they would create a challenge should one of the panels need to be removed for any reason (would need to be removed from the roof screws as it would be difficult to remove the screw from the panel given the limited clearance).

Are L brackets commonly used?

Elios Solar Racking Aluminium L Foot Bracket

**Only the L foot - The long bolt is not included. Used when installing photovoltaic systems, this essential component ensures that the solar panels are properly attached to the racks.

volts.ca

Oldcow

 

[Soundsailor]

I read on this forum and others that z brackets, channel rails, AM solar brackest are all used. Am I right to assume it really is a matter of preference?

I will be installing 8 Eco Worthy 195W panels on my 397. Z brackets seem to be the easiest way to install but I would think they would create a challenge should one of the panels need to be removed for any reason (would need to be removed from the roof screws as it would be difficult to remove the screw from the panel given the limited clearance).

Are L brackets commonly used?

Elios Solar Racking Aluminium L Foot Bracket

**Only the L foot - The long bolt is not included. Used when installing photovoltaic systems, this essential component ensures that the solar panels are properly attached to the racks.

volts.ca

Oldcow

For my installation, I used Z brackets. These were good. First I attached them to the panels, then used the self-tapping bolts to attach them to the roof. I would have to remove the bracket if work needed to be done since the bolts securing the brackets to the panels aren't accessible now.

 

[Oldcow]

I would have to remove the bracket if work needed to be done since the bolts securing the brackets to the panels aren't accessible now.

This is what I am hoping to stay away from although maybe I am overthinking it as I often do.

Oldcow

 

[brandtb1919]

I read on this forum and others that z brackets, channel rails, AM solar brackest are all used. Am I right to assume it really is a matter of preference?

I will be installing 8 Eco Worthy 195W panels on my 397. Z brackets seem to be the easiest way to install but I would think they would create a challenge should one of the panels need to be removed for any reason (would need to be removed from the roof screws as it would be difficult to remove the screw from the panel given the limited clearance).

Are L brackets commonly used?

Elios Solar Racking Aluminium L Foot Bracket

**Only the L foot - The long bolt is not included. Used when installing photovoltaic systems, this essential component ensures that the solar panels are properly attached to the racks.

volts.ca

Oldcow

I had the same concern about serviceability. In the end I put Unistrut on the roof and attached the Z brackets to that. It not only gives me the ability to remove the panels at will but also provides a bit more airflow under the panels when driving (helps with efficiency).

 

[Oldcow]

I had the same concern about serviceability. In the end I put Unistrut on the roof and attached the Z brackets to that. It not only gives me the ability to remove the panels at will but also provides a bit more airflow under the panels when driving (helps with efficiency).

This is something you picked up at a hardware store?

Oldcow

 

[Scott'n'Wendy]

but also provides a bit more airflow under the panels when driving (helps with efficiency).

And lift.....


JK...uni-strut is a good idea imo.

 

[Scott'n'Wendy]

This is something you picked up at a hardware store?

Oldcow

Electrical supply store

 

[brandtb1919]

This is something you picked up at a hardware store?

Oldcow

I got mine at Home Depot. They are galvanized steel, but if weight is a concern, you can get aluminum versions from an electrical supply place (about 4x the cost). I painted mine white and cut slots in them every two feet to allow water to drain to the side off the roof. I didn't want water pooling on the curve of the roof. I also ground down any sharp edges and placed butyl tape between the channel and the roof membrane to reduce the chance of anything cutting through. I was very happy with the result.

 

[Oldcow]

I had the same concern about serviceability. In the end I put Unistrut on the roof and attached the Z brackets to that. It not only gives me the ability to remove the panels at will but also provides a bit more airflow under the panels when driving (helps with efficiency).

So you screwed the Unistrut o the roof then you screwed the z brackets thru the Unistrut thru the roof?

Oldcow

 

[brandtb1919]

So you screwed the Unistrut o the roof then you screwed the z brackets thru the Unistrut thru the roof?

Oldcow

Sort of, I used 1 1/2 inch stainless screws with a stainless fender washer (the holes in the uni-strut are large ovals) to fasten the uni-strut to the roof, trying to hit trusses wherever I could. I then Dicored over the screw heads. At this point, the uni-strut is pretty much a permanent fixture on the roof. For the Z brackets, I purchased 1/4-20 nut inserts that are for the uni-strut, and then used stainless 1/4-20 fasteners to go through the Z bracket into the uni-strut nuts with a lock washer. This allows me to unbolt the solar panels from the uni-strut anytime I want without disturbing the roof at all. It has held up well for thousands of miles. I bought all of the hardware from HD and Amazon. My reasoning for this was not only serviceability but I can take the solar panels with me if I sell the rig, and the next guy can bolt his own on.

 

[Butcher]

Someday I will be installing solar panels and I have not decided on how to attach them, but I do know this, there is no way I would attach them to the roof plywood. They would all have to be screwed into the trusses. For me, there is just not enough meat there for a screw to lock in. Once I found where all the trusses are located, then I would figure out how to size and attach the panels.

I would hate to get somewhere and find one missing. Not because that it is off, but what damage it could of done to someone. Falling off could be a life changing situation for everyone involved.

 

[aPaulO77]

I used this video and did exactly the way it is shown. Works great!

 

[IBEW Sparky]

Sort of, I used 1 1/2 inch stainless screws with a stainless fender washer (the holes in the uni-strut are large ovals) to fasten the uni-strut to the roof, trying to hit trusses wherever I could. I then Dicored over the screw heads. At this point, the uni-strut is pretty much a permanent fixture on the roof. For the Z brackets, I purchased 1/4-20 nut inserts that are for the uni-strut, and then used stainless 1/4-20 fasteners to go through the Z bracket into the uni-strut nuts with a lock washer. This allows me to unbolt the solar panels from the uni-strut anytime I want without disturbing the roof at all. It has held up well for thousands of miles. I bought all of the hardware from HD and Amazon. My reasoning for this was not only serviceability but I can take the solar panels with me if I sell the rig, and the next guy can bolt his own on.

This is exactly how I am looking into putting Solar panels on the roof. Using 7/8“ aluminum unistrut attached to the roofs trusses and possibly 1 or 2 fasteners in between each truss....with 4" dicore tape underneath to help protect the roof.

 

[RickLight]

I haven't done this, but I've worked with strut in many ways for many years. There are hundreds of cute little devices for attaching strut to strut and strut to almost anything you might imagine. It is not an electrical product, it's just used by most electricians.

I suggest checking out unistrut.com or competitors for ideas. Any industrial supplier has it; Grainger, Menards, Fastenal, etc.

Especially look into 'strut bolts.' Most folks use 'spring nuts' then have trouble getting a bolt into it and moving it around without unclipping from the strut. Bolts are far easier!

 

[jkoester]

I used these brackets to install a second panel on my 5th wheel. They attach to the panel on the outside of the frame, which allows for removal/adjustment without having to remove the screws that go into the roof. They are similar to the brackets used by Grand Design to install the factory panel. I found them on amazon - they're currently unavailable, but if you go to this link you will see similar products that are available at the top of the page.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CPM4M8C2?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_dt_b_fed_asin_title_0_0

 

[Roark-Amy]

I used this video and did exactly the way it is shown. Works great!

I had the same concern about serviceability. In the end I put Unistrut on the roof and attached the Z brackets to that. It not only gives me the ability to remove the panels at will but also provides a bit more airflow under the panels when driving (helps with efficiency).

I am planning to install my panels with super strut. Is using the z brackets at each end sufficient or should a bracket be added in the middle of the side? The manufacturer has only provided holes at each end and the panels are RV panels. I am just concerned about flex when driving.

 

[Soundsailor]

I am planning to install my panels with super strut. Is using the z brackets at each end sufficient or should a bracket be added in the middle of the side? The manufacturer has only provided holes at each end and the panels are RV panels. I am just concerned about flex when driving.

On my set up, the provided 4 brackets are working fine. It doesn't appear that flex is an issue.

 

[Scott'n'Wendy]

I like the uni-strut idea for spreading out the roof load. Where I live the RV gets a couple feet of snow on it. I think just using 'Z' brackets would put an undue amount of pressure in those four spots each panel is mounted to the roof. Strut would spread out the load. And what butcher said, not a lot of meat in that roof if you don't hit a truss.

 

[Roark-Amy]

On my set up, the provided 4 brackets are working fine. It doesn't appear that flex is an issue.

Thanks

On my set up, the provided 4 brackets are working fine. It doesn't appear that flex is an issue.

thanks

 

[IBEW Sparky]

I like the uni-strut idea for spreading out the roof load. Where I live the RV gets a couple feet of snow on it. I think just using 'Z' brackets would put an undue amount of pressure in those four spots each panel is mounted to the roof. Strut would spread out the load. And what butcher said, not a lot of meat in that roof if you don't hit a truss.

Use aluminum unistrut and once you lay out your lengths of unistrut, mark the roof and put down a 3" wide strip of Durabond RV roof repair tape under each length of strut. This will help protect the roof membrane. You can also notch the side rails of the strut and slightly bend it to match the contour of your rooftop. They also make stainless steel spring nuts for the unistrut but they can be pricey.