Solar Set Up Working Properly?

[HighClouds]

I have 2 solar panels on the roof, 330W and 340W, a 50 amp charge controller, 55 amp converter and 2000W inverter. Inside I have 2 LifePO4 batteries, each 12v 280ah with max continuous current 200A wired in parallel and through a Victron smart shunt. We’ll generally run a laptop, tv and Starlink for a few hours, with the refrigerator running/cycling as per its requirements. Not much draw, imho.

I’m seeing the below information generally each morning. I don’t know Solar with any degree of understanding greater than how it operates. Solar Performance-wise, I’m the village idiot. Even so, I’m not thinking these numbers (below) are sufficient for my set up. Am I wrong?

 

[el Rojo]

Have you set up your shunt to tell it you have 560 ah of batteries? Does your batteries have a BMS with bluetooth so you can confirm your smart shunt readout?

 

[Soundsailor]

I have 2 solar panels on the roof, 330W and 340W, a 50 amp charge controller, 55 amp converter and 2000W inverter. Inside I have 2 LifePO4 batteries, each 12v 280ah with max continuous current 200A wired in parallel and through a Victron smart shunt. We’ll generally run a laptop, tv and Starlink for a few hours, with the refrigerator running/cycling as per its requirements. Not much draw, imho.

I’m seeing the below information generally each morning. I don’t know Solar with any degree of understanding greater than how it operates. Solar Performance-wise, I’m the village idiot. Even so, I’m not thinking these numbers (below) are sufficient for my set up. Am I wrong?

In the screenshot you share, your coach uses more power than is being produced. Which refrigerator do you have? A 12-volt frig can use more than 100 Ahs per day. If your panels are not producing enough to keep up, over time your batteries will be drawn down. Do you have a Victron charge controller? If so, look at the history to see how much power is being produced each day.

 

[HighClouds]

Have you set up your shunt to tell it you have 560 ah of batteries? Does your batteries have a BMS with bluetooth so you can confirm your smart shunt readout?

I did not tell the shunt I had 560ah - just did that now. Didn’t know that was a deal.

I don’t have BMS with Bluetooth. (oops, I guess?). I’m working with Victron on replacing all the original “stock” components with Victron, so hoping to align everything and get it right. Thanks

 

[HighClouds]

In the screenshot you share, your coach uses more power than is being produced. Which refrigerator do you have? A 12-volt frig can use more than 100 Ahs per day. If your panels are not producing enough to keep up, over time your batteries will be drawn down. Do you have a Victron charge controller? If so, look at the history to see how much power is being produced each day.

My fridge is a Samsung residential.

I don’t have a Victron charge controller but I’m working with Victron to get that and all my other Solar components Victron. Hopefully, I’ll get better at this as that progresses.

Thanks!

 

[ajg617]

My fridge is a Samsung residential.

I don’t have a Victron charge controller but I’m working with Victron to get that and all my other Solar components Victron. Hopefully, I’ll get better at this as that progresses.

Thanks!

That looks low SOC for over night - same coach same fridge, two 100Ah Battleborns, with a BMV-712 shunt, 2000W inverter, one 300W solar panel, 30Amp solar converter, and a Progressive Dynamics 60 Amp Lithium only charge controller. We'll be in the 70-80% range each morning with Starlink, TV, two laptops. Most we've ever done is 4 nights running without shore power but typically the one panel would get us back up to 90% during the day unless heavy cloud/rain. When the fridge compressor is running, we'll draw about 7Amps total according to the BMV. 3ish Amps when it's not running and everything else is off. TV, lights, laptops are minimal draw. The inverter will always draw and typically feeds your 120V charge controller (though that won't run).

13.22V doesn't look right for 30% SOC - should be 70% or higher at that voltage. Is your screenshot from night time or daylight? If daylight you should see a positive Amperage number.

Not sure what brand LiFePO4s you are running, but Battleborn gave me the complete settings for our BMV. You might want to ping your battery manufacturer.

 

[HighClouds]

Thanks. I’ve sent email to the battery manufacturer - Redodo. Will see what they tell me. Appreciate your insight.