Solitude 310gk furnace issue

denisehoffman

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Oct 31, 2020
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2020 solitude 310gk recent buy. A/C works fine. Colder and using furnace now. When thermostat is set to a temp, it doesn’t maintain the temp...wake up and temp is 50 degrees inside...it never kicks on. I can turn it to off and reset it to heat to 70 and it comes on for a while but never reaches 70 before it turns off. And, it will never turn on again. I have to turn it to off, reset a temp, and it will come on for a while, go off, and never come back on even when the temp goes below the designated temp chosen. If it was a thermostat problem, wouldn’t the A/C be having the same issue; Why is it just the heat? Could it be a loose connection of the furnace wire inside the thermostat causing it to trip the fuse in the thermostat?
 
Quick reply just to bump this up to the top again......

Maybe check the thermostat to be sure the wires are fastened good. Other than that, I think it is going to need some expert to test the furnace and thermostat.
 
2020 solitude 310gk recent buy. A/C works fine. Colder and using furnace now. When thermostat is set to a temp, it doesn’t maintain the temp...wake up and temp is 50 degrees inside...it never kicks on. I can turn it to off and reset it to heat to 70 and it comes on for a while but never reaches 70 before it turns off. And, it will never turn on again. I have to turn it to off, reset a temp, and it will come on for a while, go off, and never come back on even when the temp goes below the designated temp chosen. If it was a thermostat problem, wouldn’t the A/C be having the same issue; Why is it just the heat? Could it be a loose connection of the furnace wire inside the thermostat causing it to trip the fuse in the thermostat?

I noticed on the one control panel that there is an option for a high temp and a low temp when the unit in question is on "both" mode... I don't know if this is relevant but may be worth checking out. Also check the heat source. Make sure you "prefer gas" to get the furnace to run and not trying to use the heat pump on the AC
 
You may have loose connections on the furnace that heat up and loose contact...they cool and by then the system has faulted out. If it were mine i would turn the furnace on and go outside and take a look in the furnace as it is firing. If you do not have outside access....i would call the dealer.

2021 Reflection 303rls
2019 ram 2500 cc 4x4 6.4l gas short bed
 
Our 310GK.. Furnace would come on and heat fine, then refuse to come back on for 1-2 hours. Sound familiar? It's the "high limit" switch. Access is through the angle panel (3 screws) behind the furnace. (Easy).. it is a oval shaped device (cheap) attached to the back. A tech replaced mine and also found a water leak at the top hose connector, which is a "check valve".
 
Old thread I know, but my new 310 I picked up today is doing this. Supposed to camp tomorrow and it’ll be cold. Is the limit switch fairly easy to get to. I’d rather buy the part and replace it myself than have it spend days at a dealer waiting to be fixed.

Mine runs for 8 minutes and then just shuts down. No fan. Nothing. Only way to get it going again is to turn it off at the t stat after some time has passes and restart it. 8 minutes later it’s off again. Not bad during the day, but if it never comes back on at night that’ll be tedious getting things heated up again the next day if the trailer temp falls into the 50’s.
 
Old thread I know, but my new 310 I picked up today is doing this. Supposed to camp tomorrow and it’ll be cold. Is the limit switch fairly easy to get to. I’d rather buy the part and replace it myself than have it spend days at a dealer waiting to be fixed.

Mine runs for 8 minutes and then just shuts down. No fan. Nothing. Only way to get it going again is to turn it off at the t stat after some time has passes and restart it. 8 minutes later it’s off again. Not bad during the day, but if it never comes back on at night that’ll be tedious getting things heated up again the next day if the trailer temp falls into the 50’s.

Yes, the high limit switch should be readily accessible from the back side of the furnace. It is a round or oval shaped device with a couple of wires attached and should be held in place with one or two screws. Just be sure that your replacement switch has the same temperature rating as the original switch.
 
I have a Suburban SF-35VHQ and the high limit switch was a little tricky to get to. I had to take off the back panel, that holds the 3 ducts vents, to get to the switch. Replacing the switch was the easy part, getting to it was the hard part. Kind of like working on newer cars these days.
 
Yes, the high limit switch should be readily accessible from the back side of the furnace. It is a round or oval shaped device with a couple of wires attached and should be held in place with one or two screws. Just be sure that your replacement switch has the same temperature rating as the original switch.

Thought I’d follow up here. Found a tech that happened to be at the dealer that Saturday. He spent a couple hours with me trying to figure it out short of pulling the furnace. Replaced the high temp switch and even adjusted its proximity to the heat exchangers. Nothing worked. Yes, that switch was easy to get at. Thanks.

Dropped it off at the dealer last week and now dealing their incompetence. They say the heater works fine. Of course that first tech who witnessed it is no where to be found. Like I was in some parallel universe when I met with him. Well, it’s been in the 70’s. Said they ran it for two hours. No issues. Unless you can set the thermostat at 150 degrees, that’s not true as they didn’t pull it to bench test. I suspect it maintained a higher temp on a warm day in the trailer which it will do. Just won’t go from cold soaked to a livable temp.

I don’t want to be the guy that tells people how to do their job, but I was thinking of telling them to pull it, bench test and somehow check all the duct work for obstructions. Does that seem reasonable?
 
The wires for controlling the call for heat go to a control board in the A/C plenum. At least Mine does. Check the t-stat wires up there in the ceiling. When you take the cover off the A/C plenum, you will see a white or ivory fibreglass box. If your trailer is wired like mine, the thermostat wires will be there. I don't have a 310GK but thought I'd toss this out there in case they are similar.
 
The wires for controlling the call for heat go to a control board in the A/C plenum. At least Mine does. Check the t-stat wires up there in the ceiling. When you take the cover off the A/C plenum, you will see a white or ivory fibreglass box. If your trailer is wired like mine, the thermostat wires will be there. I don't have a 310GK but thought I'd toss this out there in case they are similar.

Thanks. I’ll pass that on. Today I called GD. Pretty cool that I can actually talk to someone there. I opened a case with them so the details would be noted on that end as well. Don’t know if it does any good. That guy thinks control board. But I think he was referring the one on the furnace. We’ll see. First world problem but hopefully I’ll figure it out before next winter.
 
Thanks. I’ll pass that on. Today I called GD. Pretty cool that I can actually talk to someone there. I opened a case with them so the details would be noted on that end as well. Don’t know if it does any good. That guy thinks control board. But I think he was referring the one on the furnace. We’ll see. First world problem but hopefully I’ll figure it out before next winter.
The problem you are experiencing is not unheard of. I remember reading a few threads like this one. Unfortunately it seems a lot of people ask advice, get some responses but then disappear from the forum until the next issue and don't post the solution to the first problem.
 
The problem you are experiencing is not unheard of. I remember reading a few threads like this one. Unfortunately it seems a lot of people ask advice, get some responses but then disappear from the forum until the next issue and don't post the solution to the first problem.

I see that all the time on forums too. I’ll be sure and follow up. Maybe it’ll help someone else down the road.
 
Picked up my trailer today. Dealer bench tested the heater/took it apart looking for issues. All was good. Reinstalled it and worked it hard. No issues. They have no idea why it’s fixed, but figure there was probably a bad connection somewhere and putting it back together did the trick.

I ran it myself in their campground before I left. Set the temp at 97 and called it good after 27 minutes of running. Who knows.
 
Ok. So the heater actually isn’t fixed. Well, I don’t think it’s the heater. When at the dealer I tested it on batteries only. Worked great. On shore power it cuts out after some time before reaching temp. Running it now on batteries again and it’ll run all day. Ideas there? Furnace is on a 15 amp fuse on a sub panel. Breaker for the sub panel is 30amp, but has a bunch of stuff on it including the fridge. Maybe something there?
 
Got to the bottom of this one.....

Took it to an independent shop and paid out of pocket. Dealer was useless. Bad board and bad blower motor. Not sure what the board issue was or which issue came first, but the blower motor was amping out somewhere north of 12 amps and shutting the whole thing down. 10 amps is the max on the motor. That section of the cage was bent up from day one, so I'm guessing someone at the factory crushed or dropped the furnace causing this. Since I live in Texas and there's odd franchise laws, so GD won't cover any of it, but that's ok. It fixed now.
 
I have a Suburban SF-35VHQ and the high limit switch was a little tricky to get to. I had to take off the back panel, that holds the 3 ducts vents, to get to the switch. Replacing the switch was the easy part, getting to it was the hard part. Kind of like working on newer cars these days.
Same issue in my rig. On for 5 or so, then off, reset, repeat. Just replaced the limit switch, same deal installing, wish I was 5ft tall sometimes! Works great now finally.
 

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