Starlink Install

PRETZEL23

New Member
Joined
May 30, 2024
Messages
4
Location
Missouri
I just wanted to share my I stall of my Starlink hardware in my 2023 Imagine 3210BH. Using A mount for the router and the power brick I ordered off of Etsy. I’m mounted it to the plywood underneath in the pass-through and using 3M cord clips ran the power cord to the receptacle that is In our pass-through. And then using the same cord clips out of the Starlink cable to the other side and plan to run it out of the hose port to connect to the dishy. I’ll probably end up mounting the dishy on a pole utilizing a flag holder underneath the front landing leg. IMG_2691.jpg
 
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Looks good and neat! I saw a similar mounting bracket on Amazon and may order one later today.

We just inaugurated our Starlink last week and it worked great. My wife and I both work remote and had no issues joining multiple Teams calls, etc. I just placed my antenna on the roof for best reception. Using the inverter for 8+ hours per day was a bit of a drain and our 400W of solar could not keep up 100%. Two to three days off grid with the satellite dish, lights, two laptops, a couple of 12v monitors, and a nighttime heater (we were at 10,000ft. elevation) is about all I can handle at the moment.

Has anyone used a 12V to 48v/56v step up booster for Starling Gen3 successfully?
 
Has anyone used a 12V to 48v/56v step up booster for Starling Gen3 successfully?

Our Starlink arrived 6/25/2024, not sure what generation that makes it. I have converted it to running on our 12 volt system. It took a couple of tries and ended up spending a bit more for a better power injector and 12 to 48 volt converter. Here is a thread about my conversion and a lot of input from others about their setups:
https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/sho...nk-Adapter-to-12-volt?highlight=starlink+volt
Good luck with this if you move forward.
 
IMG_2715.jpg

This is the other side of the passthru, across from the wetbay, where ill run the cord out through the hose hole.
 
I'm jealous of the neatness and organization - I'm getting there. I ordered the Starlink mounting brackets from Amazon as well as a few other mounting brackets to keep things neat.

A quick follow up on the DC-DC Starlink power supply. The newer Starlink Version 3 is much easier to adapt to battery power. Since it has an external power supply you do not need a PoE injector and separate router. I used a DC to DC converter to step up the voltage to 57v DC. I followed the advice in this thread.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4D8PisqCW4o

(great videos, BTW)

I did not save as much as I hoped. With my Renogy 3000W inverter, the Starlink is drawing about 6.5 to 7W (including other small trailer overhead) and the DC-DC version draws about 5.5W-6W. (I'm using a Renogy OneCore and shunt to monitor the usage). The router does get warm to the touch and I was concerned that the DC-DC method might be creating more heat - but that's not the case. Surface temperature of the router is ranging from 109 to 115 degrees.

I also printed up the 1200W DC-DC converter cover from the 3D printer file Rob shared in his video - thanks Rob!

Once I clean up the basement I'll post pics.
 
Here's what mine looks like. I mounted the router on the storage wall and been using the original antenna box for now. You can see that I mounted the DC-DC converter above my inverter.Starlink View.jpg

I recently did a solar install and conversion to LiPo. I'll post that in a different thread.
 

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We are using the Gen 2 setup that I converted from AC to DC and runs off our batteries. It's been working great the last two years and only draws like 3A including the router. This setup runs without the use of the inverter or any other devices. I fastened everything in the front compartment with all my electrical stuff and then have the dishy cable routed to where the right propane tank is so that I didn't have to make any more holes nor fish wires through the basement compartment. We are quite happy with the system and the performance.

Front Compartment Finished2.JPG
 

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I installed my Gen 3 Starlink router and power brick on a piece of plywood that I installed in my pass-through area. After having some GFI power issues I am thinking of relocating everything to the rear under the bench seats of my dining room table. I would have to get some type of thru wall connection/plug and find a way to connect it to the electrical outlet that is under the dining room table.
 

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I installed my Gen 3 Starlink router and power brick on a piece of plywood that I installed in my pass-through area. After having some GFI power issues I am thinking of relocating everything to the rear under the bench seats of my dining room table. I would have to get some type of thru wall connection/plug and find a way to connect it to the electrical outlet that is under the dining room table.
This is what I did....
 
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These are great setups. I’ve used my Starlink a couple times and the only option I could find on my Solitude was to open my dinette slide a hair, run it through the corner and close it again. Just barely enough space to not pinch the cable.

I looked all over the basement and front storage areas for a good solution but there’s none that don’t involve cutting the bottom or drilling a hole somewhere. Even the propane bays are sealed up super tight. Also, GD in there infinite wisdom put the only electrical outlet in the wet bay. No way I’m keeping something plugged in there.
 
The wetbay outlet is where I currently have my Starlink plugged in the GFI outlet.

If I do move it under the dining room seats will I need a ventilation vent of some type? I have read the router/power brick generates some heat.
 
It generates some heat, but I’d say it’s only ever warm. Not hot.
 
Thanks to the OP for starting this thread. After reading this and looking at my basement area I found some solutions for my Starlink. Came up with this. Ran the Starlink cable through a cut in an unused plug in the wet bay. Then used a bracket from Amazon on the aft storage wall near an outlet.
 

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