Tire Issue

[freebird-MGRV]

I put about 4k miles on during 2022 and then over 7k in 2023 and just parked it when I returned in October. I'm preparing for next year as I expect to cover more than 10k and I noticed I have very uneven tire wear in just 11k miles.

The front axle tires look fine but the rear axle the driver side is badly worn and the pass side is not bad but more than either of the front tires

I'm anal about tire pressure so what gives?

I see I'm going to be replacing at least one tire but it looks like I'll need another before I'm done this year

Tire on left is driver

 

[Hoopy Frood]

My guess would be a bent axle stub, a bent axle if both tires on that axle are the same, or an alignment issue.

 

[huntr70]

Yep, agreed with the about statement. Bent spindle.

Is the 5th wheel towing nose high or level? Nose high would add some weight to the rear.

 

[trailrydr]

Would recommend taking yout trailer to a alignment shop in your area. They should be able to assess what may be causing this issue.

 

[freebird-MGRV]

Angst and then Plot Twist

Took the rig to two shops with little help

First told me there was nothing wrong. I asked him if he even noticed the tire I mentioned, Replied he check everything and couldn't find a problem.. Paid him and left.

Second shop said yup it's bent. Went through the discussion about how? could it be bent with no visible damage and how could he rule out it just wasn't made that way. He replied he gets dozens every year like this and the problem is the axles are too week and go out of alignment on their own. No warranty will cover it.

Took the trailer home and resolved to just replace the tire and when the brakes are worn out and need replacing I'll update the axles then and probably more tires.

On my way home it bothered me that the axles were too weak bc when I took that wheel off I poked my head to look at the tag on axle and it was dirty but it said either 6k or 8k and my old eyes couldn't tell so I ASSumed it was 8K but then I crawled under wiped it clean and what??? 6K axles but the rig is 14k which made me think hey second guy is right it is too weak but how can they get away with that? Simple they subtract the pin weight of 2067 lbs However, that's static load on level ground not real world grrr

Sensing I was on the wrong end of a sharp stick I figured before putting the new tire on it's been 11k miles let me pull the drum to inspect the brakes, bearings and repack the bearings and then I stumbled on this



Hopefully the image is clear enough but there's no pad left on the shoes and the metal shoe is even worn thin. Moreover, the hold down springs if you look close are torqued over and the pins are bent. I have no guess what went wrong here but the other three were fine.

Replaced brake assembly and drum bc well what choice do I have and I'll see how it progresses.

My perceived issues with alignment may be within tolerance and these things may never be exactly laser straight but this brake thing looks to me the more likely cause of the tire wear since the brake failure and tire wear are the same wheel (Hell of coincidence)

When it comes to mechanical failures mine always come in layers

 

[Hoopy Frood]

What you discovered with your math was why I went from 3,500 lb. rated springs to 4,000 lb. rated springs. It does seem that they install springs and axles that are juuuuust enough, and no more.

It might be that brake dragging like that would cause your excess tire wear, when you consider the brake constantly torquing the axle could cause the wear. IM0 anyway.

 

[Scott'n'Wendy]

My perceived issues with alignment may be within tolerance and these things may never be exactly laser straight but this brake thing looks to me the more likely cause of the tire wear since the brake failure and tire wear are the same wheel (Hell of coincidence)

Yup...that brake issue could certainly be the cause. Scrubbing that tire the whole time.

 

[Second Chance]

Thread moved to Axles, Brakes, and Suspension. (Looks more like it's an axle/alignment issue than a tire issue.)

Rob

 

[Grandesigner]

Looks like maybe another season is possible with those tires by just rotating them...maybe more.

 

[Chaps2018]

I had the same problem. I check my tread depth every 2-3k miles to monitor tire wear. I found the heaviest wheel location (Drivers rear) of the 4 was wearing badly on the inside. At first I was in denial...rotated tires, took it to shops, etc. I was getting about 6k miles/tire in that location. Finally it got to be too much $$ (I pay near $300/Good Year Endurance at Discount Tire). A couple of notes:

-Meticulous about tire pressure, also use TPMS (blowouts can be stupid expensive)
-I was nose high by a couple inches...noticed brakes (Nev-r adjust) were wearing much faster on the rear axle. Fixed that.
-Went to several trailer alignment places...all was good.
-Downloaded Dexter build sheet for my 7k axles (Trailer 14k GVWR) and gave it to the axle shop to get a replacement. The would not order it unless I agreed to an increased wall thickness spec--said I would have the same problem due to the weak wall thickness. $600 drive out to have the axle changed and no more odd tire wear.
--Also note the original axles had built in camber...the new one does not (no hump in the middle)

The only thing I regret is not getting the new axle sooner.

 

[goducks14]

After reading about tire wear issues on multiple RV forums, one common denominator that comes up is the driver side rear tire is worn out more than the other three. I highly doubt it's a bent axle as it would quite a coincidence that everyone has a bent driver side rear axle. Since we drive in the right lane in here it would seem like the passenger side front tire would take a hit more often. I have no clue as to why the left rear tire wears out faster than the others, I just find it interesting that that tire is worn out more often
FWIW I've had that same tire on 3 different trailers with 3 different axle brands wear out sooner than the rest.

 

[Nuffsaid]

I just repaired a customer's snowmobile trailer rear axle. Pretty new trailer, looks brand new. Right rear tire was bald and worn hard on the edge. Left rear tire not as bad. I got out my quick trick alignment kit and measured the toe on the rear axle. Toed in 3/8" !!!!!!! Customer is a dentist and takes good care of his vehicles. At first I told him I didn't want to fix it, but I got bored and it was parked in front of my shop and I said oh what the hell. I took my 10 ton porta power ram and some chains and started making pushes on the rear of the axle tube. I broke one 3/8 chain, but when I got done the axle was only toed in 1/16. I installed two new tires and sent him on his way.
This same customer had a weird issue with a 2008 Suburban too. It kept eating right rear tires. My first thought was teenage drivers, but then I decided to dig deeper I found after measuring that his right rear tire was toed out close to 1/2 inch. I told him he needed a new axle housing, too many brackets in the way to try and straighten, not to mention the liability. I still think this condition was teenager caused!

It really is pretty easy to check alignment on a trailer axle. Make sure there is no side load on the axles from turning. Take a straigh edge (4 foot aluminum level works good) for rough check put level midway on the tires and see if there is even contact tire to tire. If there is any kind of gap, go to more detailed measuring. Remove all 4 tires and support weight of trailer with jack stands on the frame. Use two straight edges pieces of straight steel or two foot level will work or even a straigt piece of hardwood. With a helper and two tape measures that read the same, hold the straight edge horizonally on the flat section of the hub in the same location on each side and measure front and rear with the two tape measures. Measurement should be very close to the same. A little toe in is ok no more than 1/8 inch, but no toe out is ok. Toe in the front of the axle measurement will be slightly less than the rear. The measuring straight edge ideally should be the same width as the tires. FYI, the difference between axle tubes in 3 inch, 5200 and 6000 both use 3/16 wall tubing, 7000 lb uses 1/4 wall tubing and 8000 uses 5/16 tubing. If I wanted a 8000 pound axle I would up the bar and use 3 1/2 diameter axle tubing, a lot stronger. Think of your tow vehicle, most 3/4 and one ton trucks have a 4 inch diameter rear axle tube!

 

[huntindog]

I just repaired a customer's snowmobile trailer rear axle. Pretty new trailer, looks brand new. Right rear tire was bald and worn hard on the edge. Left rear tire not as bad. I got out my quick trick alignment kit and measured the toe on the rear axle. Toed in 3/8" !!!!!!! Customer is a dentist and takes good care of his vehicles. At first I told him I didn't want to fix it, but I got bored and it was parked in front of my shop and I said oh what the hell. I took my 10 ton porta power ram and some chains and started making pushes on the rear of the axle tube. I broke one 3/8 chain, but when I got done the axle was only toed in 1/16. I installed two new tires and sent him on his way.
This same customer had a weird issue with a 2008 Suburban too. It kept eating right rear tires. My first thought was teenage drivers, but then I decided to dig deeper I found after measuring that his right rear tire was toed out close to 1/2 inch. I told him he needed a new axle housing, too many brackets in the way to try and straighten, not to mention the liability. I still think this condition was teenager caused!

It really is pretty easy to check alignment on a trailer axle. Make sure there is no side load on the axles from turning. Take a straigh edge (4 foot aluminum level works good) for rough check put level midway on the tires and see if there is even contact tire to tire. If there is any kind of gap, go to more detailed measuring. Remove all 4 tires and support weight of trailer with jack stands on the frame. Use two straight edges pieces of straight steel or two foot level will work or even a straigt piece of hardwood. With a helper and two tape measures that read the same, hold the straight edge horizonally on the flat section of the hub in the same location on each side and measure front and rear with the two tape measures. Measurement should be very close to the same. A little toe in is ok no more than 1/8 inch, but no toe out is ok. Toe in the front of the axle measurement will be slightly less than the rear. The measuring straight edge ideally should be the same width as the tires. FYI, the difference between axle tubes in 3 inch, 5200 and 6000 both use 3/16 wall tubing, 7000 lb uses 1/4 wall tubing and 8000 uses 5/16 tubing. If I wanted a 8000 pound axle I would up the bar and use 3 1/2 diameter axle tubing, a lot stronger. Think of your tow vehicle, most 3/4 and one ton trucks have a 4 inch diameter rear axle tube!

The only thing I will add is that those tube thickness/ size specs are for regular stock axles. Lippert will pretty much put a thicker tube on any of them if the customer requets it. I had a 2001 Wilderness with 3500# axles that had 3" tubes.

 

[Nuffsaid]

The only thing I will add is that those tube thickness/ size specs are for regular stock axles. Lippert will pretty much put a thicker tube on any of them if the customer requets it. I had a 2001 Wilderness with 3500# axles that had 3" tubes.

Overbuilt is always a better option than under built in my opinion. That is one of the things that has always impressed me with Northwood built trailers like Arctic Fox.

 

[huntindog]

Finished them.
These pics were supposed to go into my mud flap thread.
Not sure how this happened.

 

[Hoopy Frood]

Those look pretty much like OEM.

 

[huntindog]

Those look pretty much like OEM.

Thanks, it was a fun project. I had most of the materials on hand. The aluminum signstock was from a coworker/friends husband's sign buissiness. He was was an early covid victum They did not know about it causing blood clots in the lungs then.
Anyways, I ended up with a lot of materials that are easy to work with. All I needed were some nuts/bolts and a couple of cans of bedliner spray. I think Jim would be happy that his stuff is being put to good use.

 

[freebird-MGRV]

I had the same problem. I check my tread depth every 2-3k miles to monitor tire wear. I found the heaviest wheel location (Drivers rear) of the 4 was wearing badly on the inside. At first I was in denial...rotated tires, took it to shops, etc. I was getting about 6k miles/tire in that location. Finally it got to be too much $$ (I pay near $300/Good Year Endurance at Discount Tire). A couple of notes:

-Meticulous about tire pressure, also use TPMS (blowouts can be stupid expensive)
-I was nose high by a couple inches...noticed brakes (Nev-r adjust) were wearing much faster on the rear axle. Fixed that.
-Went to several trailer alignment places...all was good.
-Downloaded Dexter build sheet for my 7k axles (Trailer 14k GVWR) and gave it to the axle shop to get a replacement. The would not order it unless I agreed to an increased wall thickness spec--said I would have the same problem due to the weak wall thickness. $600 drive out to have the axle changed and no more odd tire wear.
--Also note the original axles had built in camber...the new one does not (no hump in the middle)

The only thing I regret is not getting the new axle sooner.

Thanks everybody misery always loves company

Further update:

After reassembling the brakes I found they weren't working at all (Your killing me smalls!) Found electrical issue at the junction box for the trailer plug



This connector for all the ground wires had dropped the ground for the brakes. I had this type connector in the trailer do the same thing and I lost all the lights in front of trailer. Opened the lock tab reinserted and locked it down. Brakes worked but only for a minute and then stopped working again, looked and the friggin thing pulled out again. Cut the whole thing off and bung nutted it together end of problem

At this point I don't know how long the brakes weren't working I'm sure I would have noticed if it was going on for a while or what the issues with axle, brake or other I might have. I'm going to have see what the next year brings

Will put another 5-6k miles and save some money for upgrade. Thinking Timbren with 7k axles

This all started when I pulled the wheels off to have TPMS valves installed

So to recap

TPMS upgrade became a tire issue which became an axle issue, which became a brake issue, which became an electrical issue

Did I mention layers?

 

[trailrydr]

.........

Did I mention layers?

The sweet "onion" of RV ownership for ALL to enjoy! ?