Total Electrical Mess!

Yes! Awesome. Thank you @SilentService! This tells me 2 things. First, the B+ small red wire in the center of the shunt is disconnected on my unit. I'll fix that tomorrow. Second, there is a battery monitor display panel somewhere. I have not found it so I assume it was also stolen. I will eventually get this fixed, but there are many unknowns. A third thing, the P- output wire is connected at the shunt, but the load side is disconnected. I don't know where it connects yet. I really appreciate your help.
 
@RV Newbie Mine runs to a ground screw on the frame/chassis of the RV. As I'm facing my battery bay, it runs to the lower right where the back battery bay wall meets the drivers side wall. I tried to get a good picture but this was the best I could get.
 

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Perfect! That is the primary chassis ground I've been looking for. I'll fix this today. So much appreciated!!!!
 
@SilentService I did request a wiring diagram from GD customer support per your recommendation. Awaiting a response. The front slide is proving challenging. I'm trying to find the circuit that powers the slide. The slide is currently closed and I need it open. There does not appear to be a manual override to open the front slide, like the back 2. I'm also still trying to find the circuit that goes to the Compass Connect control board in my previous Pic. The control board is powered up, but doesn't actually control anything. The buttons just blink when pressed. So I assume I just have power and ground and no control circuitry. I'll continue the quest!
 
Finally some real progress! I got the front slide out and the Compass Connect working. As I was tracing wires, I noticed that a bundle of what appeared to be ground wires was connected to a 12v power side of the bus bar. It was a bundle of white wires under the front pass thru storage. Once I disconnected them, I ran a jumper to ground and the panel became active. I permanently mounted the ground wires and the whole coach seemed to wake up. Duh. Nearly every ground in the coach 12v system was in this bundle. Some idiot just slapped it on any free post. All the slides work and everything else connected to the Compass Connect control panel. Whew! One major headache done.
 
You can sort of see the white bundle and it connected to the bottom bus bar which is positive.
 

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Finally some real progress! I got the front slide out and the Compass Connect working. As I was tracing wires, I noticed that a bundle of what appeared to be ground wires was connected to a 12v power side of the bus bar. It was a bundle of white wires under the front pass thru storage. Once I disconnected them, I ran a jumper to ground and the panel became active. I permanently mounted the ground wires and the whole coach seemed to wake up. Duh. Nearly every ground in the coach 12v system was in this bundle. Some idiot just slapped it on any free post. All the slides work and everything else connected to the Compass Connect control panel. Whew! One major headache done.
Glad your figuring it out. That's what happens when someone attempts to fix things but does not have enough knowledge on how stuff is supposed to work. That said, excellent job and keep us posted on your progress. Your trial and error helps makes things easier for others in the future!
 
Thanks. Appreciate all the support here. I hope this helps someone else, but I also hope nobody has to go thru this level of pain.
 
Another breakthrough this week. I couldn't get the kitchen slide to operate on 120v or 12v. Fridge, stove, radio, Pantry light, TV panel, etc. However, the fireplace did operate. Which was strange. I traced power all the way from the batteries to the slide. I had to cut the plastic barrier undercarriage that conceals all the wiring and duct work. Upon removing the fireplace, found the entire harness cut. 12v and 120v. Rewired both and reconnected the coaxial as well. That fixed all the inoperable appliances. As a bonus find, every electric tank heater was detached and hanging. It appears that the tape and glue they use to adhere to the tank is faulty. This is a 2023 MY so there is no reason for this to have occurred. I have yet to fix that issue, but if you are having issues with your tank heaters, look for this.
 
I did get electrical diagrams from GD customer support. It would have saved a lot of time lost "figuring it out". I think I have the RV in a mostly liveable condition. I still have to install the solar panels. It appears that the solar interface controller was also stolen so I'll need to replace that soon. I'll have the furnace installed next week. I feel like a GD assembly line worker. Seems like every major appliance, I've had to replace and repair all the wiring in the process. We didn't like the small kitchen window, so we opted to install a small range hood vs. Microwave. We cut out the old window and added a 5" larger window 20x25. Still have to do the finish trim, but the rough is complete. It's coming along.
 
Cant wait to see the completed upgrades.
Have the same unit.
We added a slat wall around the kitchen slide. A herringbone wood design behind the couch with sconces. Covered the upper cabinets above the TV. It's still accessible, just a different look. Installed a 50" TV with a swing arm mount. It's still a work in progress, but it's getting there.
 
Installed the furnace today. Had to chase the furnace thermostat wires. I assumed the furnace thermostat wires were connected directly to the thermostat. They're not. They are wired directly from the furnace to rear AC unit. There is a junction box accessible from the interior rear AC unit vent in the ceiling. An easy install overall. 4 wires on the Suburban furnace. Red, black, blue & blue/white. We had to splice and reconnect all the flexible duct work as well. The gas line was a simple install as well. The furnace works quite well which I guess is to be expected for a 25,000 BTU unit. Pics to follow.
 

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