Traveling when temperature is below freezing

[Lloyd_TX]

What is the coldest you have ever pulled your RV to a new location without winterizing your RV?

Thanks,

Barb

 

[Riverbug]

10F for us, but that's the extreme and lower than I prefer. Commonly in the 20's, less frequently in the 15-20 range. I've done mods in the ductwork to push more air into the belly, and modified the low point drains. Usually, the low point drains are the first area where your water lines will freeze. Before the mods, as long as the furnace is used (not space heaters), we could be in the 20's without a problem. Below that it was an issue overnight until the sun came out and warmed things to the 20's again.

 

[Chaps2018]

Just to clarify, are you asking about moving (traveling) or stationary at a campsite?

 

[Lloyd_TX]

Just to clarify, are you asking about moving (traveling) or stationary at a campsite?

Moving (traveling). Thanks for clarifying.

 

[Lloyd_TX]

10F for us, but that's the extreme and lower than I prefer. Commonly in the 20's, less frequently in the 15-20 range. I've done mods in the ductwork to push more air into the belly, and modified the low point drains. Usually, the low point drains are the first area where your water lines will freeze. Before the mods, as long as the furnace is used (not space heaters), we could be in the 20's without a problem. Below that it was an issue overnight until the sun came out and warmed things to the 20's again.

Did you travel (move) with the furnace running?

 

[Chaps2018]

Moving in sub-freezing temps is tricky, there are a lot of variables.
-was the trailer “warm” overnight before travel ie, the longer time under freezing the more likely it will freeze during the day
-I have accidentally ran the furnace while traveling…i blew through two tanks of propane before i knew it. Again, lots depends on how cold it is vs how long the furnace will run.
-Also, if you do run the furnace, ensure your vents are all open so that something does not overheat. (Ie, we have slide carpet covering one vent and a bunk house slide sheets nearby another vent when the slides are in.
-I have read where folk winterize the rig before travel then use bottled water for the toilet and washing hands during overnight stays. In this case all you would have to do is dump more antifreeze in the holding tanks.
-we use very little gray tank/black tank capacity when traveling overnight. BUT…if you have to dump before leaving the next day need to check the dump valves to see if they are heated overnight with the furnace running. I had to use a blow dryer once to thaw the valve(s) (located outside the underbelly) so we could dump before leaving the campsite when it was 17deg outside.
-Based on the cost of plumbing repairs/hassle of leaks, my plan would be to winterize while traveling to avoid these issues, but YMMV.

 

[Lloyd_TX]

Moving in sub-freezing temps is tricky, there are a lot of variables.
-was the trailer “warm” overnight before travel ie, the longer time under freezing the more likely it will freeze during the day
-I have accidentally ran the furnace while traveling…i blew through two tanks of propane before i knew it. Again, lots depends on how cold it is vs how long the furnace will run.
-Also, if you do run the furnace, ensure your vents are all open so that something does not overheat. (Ie, we have slide carpet covering one vent and a bunk house slide sheets nearby another vent when the slides are in.
-I have read where folk winterize the rig before travel then use bottled water for the toilet and washing hands during overnight stays. In this case all you would have to do is dump more antifreeze in the holding tanks.
-we use very little gray tank/black tank capacity when traveling overnight. BUT…if you have to dump before leaving the next day need to check the dump valves to see if they are heated overnight with the furnace running. I had to use a blow dryer once to thaw the valve(s) (located outside the underbelly) so we could dump before leaving the campsite when it was 17deg outside.
-Based on the cost of plumbing repairs/hassle of leaks, my plan would be to winterize while traveling to avoid these issues, but YMMV.

Thanks for that great, detailed reply!

Barb

 

[Riverbug]

Did you travel (move) with the furnace running?

Also answered in another thread, but here's some additional information in case its helpful...

We do not run with the furnace on. We always turn the propane tanks off while in tow.

We make one long day jaunt to leave central MN and get to northern MO. By the time we get there, we may have enough slush in the line to impede flowing water, but after turning the furnace back on to run about 30 minutes, we have water again. That's only happened twice. And we have had water flowing for bathroom breaks so it must have just frozen enough during the last leg. We haven't ever had it freeze hard enough to become a bigger issue.

When returning home we do the same; long day of travel from northern MO to home. I then turn the furnace on, dump tanks (I did install tank heaters), unload, and winterize before turning off the furnace.

I didn't mention but probably obvious, I turn the water heater on once we get parked as well.

 

[Lloyd_TX]

10F for us, but that's the extreme and lower than I prefer. Commonly in the 20's, less frequently in the 15-20 range. I've done mods in the ductwork to push more air into the belly, and modified the low point drains. Usually, the low point drains are the first area where your water lines will freeze. Before the mods, as long as the furnace is used (not space heaters), we could be in the 20's without a problem. Below that it was an issue overnight until the sun came out and warmed things to the 20's again.

Thanks!

 

[retired_engineer]

If you have a tankless water heater I would suggest winterizing as not all models have anti-freeze (not to be confused with antifreeze) protection and even some that do will not support running it while traveling. The Furrion tankless water heater in our trailer falls under the second situation.

 

[Riverbug]

If you have a tankless water heater I would suggest winterizing as not all models have anti-freeze (not to be confused with antifreeze) protection and even some that do will not support running it while traveling. The Furrion tankless water heater in our trailer falls under the second situation.

That sounds like a very good point. Ours still has the 6 gallon tank water heater so I am not familiar with how sensitive the on demand water heaters are to freezing. If they are only protected by a thin cover like the tank heater models are, I would presume the water in the lines inside the on demand heater would be much more susceptible to freezing. If they can be winterized with air blown through the system, a person could make quick work of just blowing out the lines during travel and not do a full-on winterization?

 

[retired_engineer]

That sounds like a very good point. Ours still has the 6 gallon tank water heater so I am not familiar with how sensitive the on demand water heaters are to freezing. If they are only protected by a thin cover like the tank heater models are, I would presume the water in the lines inside the on demand heater would be much more susceptible to freezing. If they can be winterized with air blown through the system, a person could make quick work of just blowing out the lines during travel and not do a full-on winterization?

I can't speak for anything else but the Furrion on our trailer uses a mixing bowl to keep consistent water temperatures. Cracked mixing bowls are a common freezing problem with our model. The bowl does not fully drain nor to the best of my knowledge fully empty when blown out. Due to this I've stuck to both the Grand Design and Furrion winterization instructions that say to use antifreeze.

One might be able to blow out the system and run enough antifreeze through hot water side of the system to fill the water heater coils and mixing bowl. You would still have some dewinterization but would probably take less time and water than a fully winterized system.

 

[Lloyd_TX]

Moving in sub-freezing temps is tricky, there are a lot of variables.
-was the trailer “warm” overnight before travel ie, the longer time under freezing the more likely it will freeze during the day
-I have accidentally ran the furnace while traveling…i blew through two tanks of propane before i knew it. Again, lots depends on how cold it is vs how long the furnace will run.
-Also, if you do run the furnace, ensure your vents are all open so that something does not overheat. (Ie, we have slide carpet covering one vent and a bunk house slide sheets nearby another vent when the slides are in.
-I have read where folk winterize the rig before travel then use bottled water for the toilet and washing hands during overnight stays. In this case all you would have to do is dump more antifreeze in the holding tanks.
-we use very little gray tank/black tank capacity when traveling overnight. BUT…if you have to dump before leaving the next day need to check the dump valves to see if they are heated overnight with the furnace running. I had to use a blow dryer once to thaw the valve(s) (located outside the underbelly) so we could dump before leaving the campsite when it was 17deg outside.
-Based on the cost of plumbing repairs/hassle of leaks, my plan would be to winterize while traveling to avoid these issues, but YMMV.

Thanks!

 

[michealwhela]

Every year we end up traveling in the cold stuff. This year temps got down to 15. As cold weather travel is a given we have done a couple of things. First, we invested in a small ceramic heater for the wet bay. I have it secured so it can not get up against anything it can melt or catch on fire. Prior to travel we make sure to warm the bay very well. Second, we start out winterized with RV antifreeze against the dump valve then use RV antifreeze to flush. Lastly (for once we are on the road and get caught in extended low temps we use a bat-style insulation blanket at the bottom and on the bay door. This year we did get caught in a single-digit overnight freeze while boondocking. The black and grey water did freeze up briefly. Before hitting the road, we ran the ceramic heater to bring the compartment running off the generator. No damage other than to the water pump intake filter that to missed in the fray. I carry a spare so we were up and running at the next stop. Isn't winter fun?

 

[Lloyd_TX]

Every year we end up traveling in the cold stuff. This year temps got down to 15. As cold weather travel is a given we have done a couple of things. First, we invested in a small ceramic heater for the wet bay. I have it secured so it can not get up against anything it can melt or catch on fire. Prior to travel we make sure to warm the bay very well. Second, we start out winterized with RV antifreeze against the dump valve then use RV antifreeze to flush. Lastly (for once we are on the road and get caught in extended low temps we use a bat-style insulation blanket at the bottom and on the bay door. This year we did get caught in a single-digit overnight freeze while boondocking. The black and grey water did freeze up briefly. Before hitting the road, we ran the ceramic heater to bring the compartment running off the generator. No damage other than to the water pump intake filter that to missed in the fray. I carry a spare so we were up and running at the next stop. Isn't winter fun?

Wow! Thanks!

 

[Lloyd_TX]

Also answered in another thread, but here's some additional information in case its helpful...

We do not run with the furnace on. We always turn the propane tanks off while in tow.

We make one long day jaunt to leave central MN and get to northern MO. By the time we get there, we may have enough slush in the line to impede flowing water, but after turning the furnace back on to run about 30 minutes, we have water again. That's only happened twice. And we have had water flowing for bathroom breaks so it must have just frozen enough during the last leg. We haven't ever had it freeze hard enough to become a bigger issue.

When returning home we do the same; long day of travel from northern MO to home. I then turn the furnace on, dump tanks (I did install tank heaters), unload, and winterize before turning off the furnace.

I didn't mention but probably obvious, I turn the water heater on once we get parked as well.

Thanks!

 

[vap0rtranz]

10F like @Riverbug above

We dry camp for skiing almost every winter. And we now blow out lines. A little anti-freeze in the drains is all.

I'll add an annoyance - these damned "Easy Access" valve drains rust up! I've replaced 2x, and will need to add mud flaps or move the valves.

In the XLS, the valves are right behind the wheel well. Well, all the salt flys right up into the valves to rust away. By rust, I mean the inside of the valve assembly siezes up. No amount of anti-rust dip or pulling unsiezes them. That's my only complaint about the rig. Many manufacturers are moving over to these "Easy Access" valves.

Everything works as expected in winter with the furnance on and dry camping.

 

[Lloyd_TX]

10F like @Riverbug above

We dry camp for skiing almost every winter. And we now blow out lines. A little anti-freeze in the drains is all.

I'll add an annoyance - these damned "Easy Access" valve drains rust up! I've replaced 2x, and will need to add mud flaps or move the valves.

In the XLS, the valves are right behind the wheel well. Well, all the salt flys right up into the valves to rust away. By rust, I mean the inside of the valve assembly siezes up. No amount of anti-rust dip or pulling unsiezes them. That's my only complaint about the rig. Many manufacturers are moving over to these "Easy Access" valves.

Everything works as expected in winter with the furnance on and dry camping.

Thanks! Dry camping for skiing is a great idea too!!!