Two small leaks new RV

[gth871r]

I just got a new Transcend 200MK and after getting it home two small leaks have developed in the plumbing system. Both from where a pex clamp ring connects a vinyl hose to a plastic fitting. One under the bathroom sink and one at the top of the water heater bypass valve .

It seems like it's coming from where the hose comes into the fitting not from the screw connector or valve itself. I've got a bunch of questions, what's the best way to fix these? I think best practice for these hoses is just to use hose clamps but I'd have to get the clamp rings off to do that. I assume that involves pliers and a screwdriver. Can I just put the hose clamp over the end of the hose where the clamp ring was or do I need to replace the hose too? Should I replace the fitting too while I'm at it? Does anyone know where to get a valve like that for my water heater? What size hose is this? I'm a little at a loss since I'm not sure what terms to be googling.

Second issue, since I've had two leaks out of a brand new trailer and there are a lot of other connections like this can I expect to have more leaks going forward? I've looked under both sinks, in the hot water heater area, under the shower pan (I can't see the back of the shower valves since the fridge is in the way), and around the pump area. Are there any other areas that I should monitor to check for leaks?

 

[kb0zke]

Welcome to the forum! Yes, you could fight the pex clamps off and reuse the fittings. Lots of work, but it will save you $2.00. Or you can buy new fittings and new clamps. If you already have the pex crimping tool and the necessary fittings, you can use that. I'm told that you should soften the hose a bit and then the 1/2" pex rings will go on easier. I learned that after I bought the traditional hose clamps. Those were very easy to use. If you go with replacing the fittings, make sure that there is enough hose so you can cut off 2". Most likely there is, but check before cutting.

I do carry extra fittings and hose clamps, so I generally don't have to worry about leaks. <grin>

 

[gth871r]

I don't have the pex crimp tool and things. I could get them but will a hose clamp be just as good? Do they use the crimps because they are better or just because they are faster if you are doing a 100 connections per shift?

 

[TXkmpr]

The problem I have had trying to use screw clamps is they would slip before tightening enough. They also were also not completely round which did not help. Maybe some better quality ones would have worked.

This is what I'm going to try next leak. Just re-crimp the existing pex crimp ring. If that does not work I remove the existing crimp ring with small bolt cutters and replace. If you have enough slack in the soft pipe as suggested above just cut it off and replace.

If replacing the fitting I do use a screw clamp to reform the soft hose smaller so the pex crimp ring will fit over it.

 

[gth871r]

Kind of leaning toward going leak by leak and replacing the flexible hose with proper pex and brass fittings. It's more work but more likely to stay fixed. Not inclined to replumb my whole brand new RV so hopefully its a small isolated problem that doesn't progress any further.

 

[el Rojo]

Are you using a pressure regulator? Can you check to see if you can add a traditional worm gear clamp behind the pex clamp. If you cut off the pex, put 2 clamps 180 degrees off for an extra measure. We've had to do this on poly pipes for wildlife water tanks.

 

[TXkmpr]

Kind of leaning toward going leak by leak and replacing the flexible hose with proper pex and brass fittings. It's more work but more likely to stay fixed. Not inclined to replumb my whole brand new RV so hopefully its a small isolated problem that doesn't progress any further.

It's a common issue. Not sure if they are using a crimp tool out of spec., or just doing them too fast, or it is just a bad idea with the soft pipe. So far I've had to fix two leaks like yours and they have held up. Wrestling the pex for the bends might be problematic if going that route.

+1 on the water pressure regulator.

 

[Chaps2018]

To answer your repeated question, screw clamps are outside the design parameters of the RV plumbing system.

Your best bet is to remove the clamp (it will not be easy, a pair of diagonal cutters and a screwdriver is the only way i have found to get them off with minimal damage to the hose.

Replace the fitting with whichever is tighter the existing or a brass fitting then clamp using Pex clamps. Big box stores have all the parts/tools.

 

[GNRWhite]

Kind of leaning toward going leak by leak and replacing the flexible hose with proper pex and brass fittings. It's more work but more likely to stay fixed. Not inclined to replumb my whole brand new RV so hopefully its a small isolated problem that doesn't progress any further.

I discovered the same issue with several fittings behind the Nautilus system when I was replacing the burner in my furnace (that's another story) last week. I'm not 100% sure, but I've heard that only PEX fittings should be used on PEX piping, and hose clamps are to be used on flexible hose. Or hose clamps are to only be used on flexible hose and definitely not on PEX. Either way, I don't think the two are interchangeable because PEX expands, and contracts and the hose clamps don't allow the needed flexibility.

I found a couple of quotes on line: "GD has admitted there is a better fitting for the braided poly tube and the only reason they don't use it is because they don't want to stock multiple size fittings. That is not in the best interest of the customer that has to deal with drips when the system is used and subjected to movement."

And..."Either water system will eventually suffer from leaks at soft tube to PEX fitting connections . . . until all the soft tube is replaced by PEX tubing.

What I do know is that I've got a couple of leaks that I will temporarily fix with rescue tape until it gets warmer for a more permanent fix. I've used it for years with great success if you wrap it tightly.

Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/Bond-Self-Fusing-Emergency-Electrical-Insulation/dp/B00AEBKYPG/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2D040NIVIRQPH&keywords=rescue%2Btape%2Bself-fusing%2Bsilicone%2Btape&qid=1707348157&sprefix=rescue%2Btape%2Caps%2C122&sr=8-3&th=1

 

[bstreet5]

It is disappointing that any RV manufacturer does this, Vinyl hose should never be used with pex fittings because the internal diameter is different. The options should be buy the proper for fitting vinyl hose with a larger barb to go inside the hose or use pex hose if both ends are suitable for pex.

 

[Cchapin100]

To answer your repeated question, screw clamps are outside the design parameters of the RV plumbing system.

Your best bet is to remove the clamp (it will not be easy, a pair of diagonal cutters and a screwdriver is the only way i have found to get them off with minimal damage to the hose.

Replace the fitting with whichever is tighter the existing or a brass fitting then clamp using Pex clamps. Big box stores have all the parts/tools.

I’ve found that the easiest way to remove pex clamps is with a dremel tool with a cutting wheel. They’re tough little buggers.

 

[Roll With The Changes]

I have found that expansion pex (pex A) fittings are a better fix for the vinyl hose. The barb is slightly larger. This is much easier now that the big box stores are carrying pex A. I also use a fuel line type hose clamp. They clamp all the way around better and don't have the flat spot that a worm clamp has. I have not had any repeat problems with repairs done like that.

I got tired chasing those kinds of leaks so I replumbed the entire rig with pex A.

 

[Chaps2018]

A buddy of mine had constant leaks behind his reflection, Nautilis panel…

Every time he had one repaired another two would start leaking. He took the rig to the dealer and they refitted the entire panel with the pexlock clamps using existing white hose. I’m not sure if they used pexlock fittings. (Job cost $800ish mainly labor)

Do any of you have any experience with these clamps? https://www.flairit.com/pexlock.php

 

[Kevin2282]

I just got a new Transcend 200MK and after getting it home two small leaks have developed in the plumbing system. Both from where a pex clamp ring connects a vinyl hose to a plastic fitting. One under the bathroom sink View attachment 49468 and one at the top of the water heater bypass valve View attachment 49469.

It seems like it's coming from where the hose comes into the fitting not from the screw connector or valve itself. I've got a bunch of questions, what's the best way to fix these? I think best practice for these hoses is just to use hose clamps but I'd have to get the clamp rings off to do that. I assume that involves pliers and a screwdriver. Can I just put the hose clamp over the end of the hose where the clamp ring was or do I need to replace the hose too? Should I replace the fitting too while I'm at it? Does anyone know where to get a valve like that for my water heater? What size hose is this? I'm a little at a loss since I'm not sure what terms to be googling.

Second issue, since I've had two leaks out of a brand new trailer and there are a lot of other connections like this can I expect to have more leaks going forward? I've looked under both sinks, in the hot water heater area, under the shower pan (I can't see the back of the shower valves since the fridge is in the way), and around the pump area. Are there any other areas that I should monitor to check for leaks?

I can feel your pain. Chasing leaks is not fun. My first leak quickly turned into about a dozen. I ended us taking a crash course in PEX plumbing and replacing as much of the hose with PEX as possible. My journey and what I learn in the process can be found here:

https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/sho...utilus-P1-and-Plumbing-System-rebuild-started

So far so good. I now set my pressure regulator at 60psi and everything works great

Good luck. You should not have to fix what should have been done right the first time.

Kevin

 

[retired_engineer]

-snip -

Do any of you have any experience with these clamps? https://www.flairit.com/pexlock.php

I like the looks of those and am interested about experiences as well.

 

[jbelo1]

My Water leaks in Imagine 2600RB

I just got a new Transcend 200MK and after getting it home two small leaks have developed in the plumbing system. Both from where a pex clamp ring connects a vinyl hose to a plastic fitting. One under the bathroom sink View attachment 49468 and one at the top of the water heater bypass valve View attachment 49469.

It seems like it's coming from where the hose comes into the fitting not from the screw connector or valve itself. I've got a bunch of questions, what's the best way to fix these? I think best practice for these hoses is just to use hose clamps but I'd have to get the clamp rings off to do that. I assume that involves pliers and a screwdriver. Can I just put the hose clamp over the end of the hose where the clamp ring was or do I need to replace the hose too? Should I replace the fitting too while I'm at it? Does anyone know where to get a valve like that for my water heater? What size hose is this? I'm a little at a loss since I'm not sure what terms to be googling.

Second issue, since I've had two leaks out of a brand new trailer and there are a lot of other connections like this can I expect to have more leaks going forward? I've looked under both sinks, in the hot water heater area, under the shower pan (I can't see the back of the shower valves since the fridge is in the way), and around the pump area. Are there any other areas that I should monitor to check for leaks?

My water leak started after my first trip, dripping at the bottom. I had to open about half of the bottom cover, I discovered combination of hoses and Pex. I had 6 T garden hose connections leaks leading to kitchen sink above. To fix the problem I replaced plastic "T"s with brass. If you cut the hose standard 1/2 inch ring wont' over swollen braided hose, I had to buy oversize rings from Amazon. I carry Pex tool spare rings and blue and red pex tubing. I also have pich pliers for additional tighter fit. Under your sink try the pinch pliers and it should eliminate the leak, it worked for me. I also added brass shut off valves under the bathroom sink.
Good Luck

 

[jbelo1]

It seems like it's coming from where the hose comes into the fitting not from the screw connector or valve itself. I've got a bunch of questions, what's the best way to fix these? I think best practice for these hoses is just to use hose clamps but I'd have to get the clamp rings off to do that. I assume that involves pliers and a screwdriver. Can I just put the hose clamp over the end of the hose where the clamp ring was or do I need to replace the hose too? Should I replace the fitting too while I'm at it? Does anyone know where to get a valve like that for my water heater? What size hose is this? I'm a little at a loss since I'm not sure what terms to be googling.

Second issue, since I've had two leaks out of a brand new trailer and there are a lot of other connections like this can I expect to have more leaks going forward? I've looked under both sinks, in the hot water heater area, under the shower pan (I can't see the back of the shower valves since the fridge is in the way), and around the pump area. Are there any other areas that I should monitor to check for leaks?[/QUOTE]

My water leak started after my first trip, dripping at the bottom. I had to open about half of the bottom cover, I discovered combination of hoses and Pex. I had 6 "T" garden hose connections leaks leading to kitchen sink above. To fix the problem I replaced plastic "T"s with brass. If you cut the hose standard 1/2 inch ring wont' over swollen braided hose, I had to buy oversize rings from Amazon. I carry Pex tool,spare rings and blue and red pex tubing. I also have pinch pliers for additional tighter fit. Under your sink try the pinch pliers to tighten the ring and it should eliminate the leak, it worked for me. I also added brass shut off valves under the bathroom sink.
Good Luck