ForBruce
Senior Member
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2020
- Messages
- 273
Before I talk about the water heater braking pipes or the black tank set up:
Let me first say I have 30 years experience as “director or service operations” for a New York company involved in Chemical Manufacturing and servicing of COMMERCIAL dish washers in hospital ,hotels and restaurants.Giving this experience with vacuum breakers ,check valves and water flow I present the following.
Please also refer to the 2 photos attached.
I noticed when my water pressure regulator was set to 50 lbs and the camp grounds pressure maxed out at around 60lb …my pressure was reading 80lb and climbing. How is this possible.
Well truth be told, as you heat water in a closed system, water expands and so does the pressure. Some campers can stand the excessive pressure, while some older ones might break open hoses or connections.
Commercial pressure regulators, for this reason have a build in “backflow” system allowing this excessive pressure to flow Backwards into the water supply. Unfortunately the ones made for our camping use do not.
For this reason I have build one into my water incoming setup. To relieve this excess pressure before any damage can occur.
Now to Black Tank Flush piping.
The set up on most campers (see photo) has a check valve combo vacuum breaker setup to prevent Black water from flowing back into city water and polluting.
When you apply flush water pressure , the vacuum breaker closes allows water to flow pushing open the one-way check valve and into the black tank. See photo
Shutting off the water flow immediately closes the check valve, preventing sucking water up from the black tank. At the same time the vacuum breaker opens allowing air in the line breaking any suction of the black tank should that check valve fail.
So you see, you have 2 safeties stopping reverse black tank flow.
The water that comes back out of the flush connection (depending if you have a check valve there ) is FRESH water that only reached the vacuum breaker and is not contaminated.
I have built my water setup based on the above.
I have incorporated 2 things into the setup . A water meter to allow me not to overflow the toilet when back flushing. Also i switched to a commercial vacuum breaker & check valve and moved to under my bathroom sink.
And second an extra shut off valve next to the flush connection located BEHIND the water bay door. This is to make sure some kids don’t decide to have fun; turn on flush water and run away.
The numbered parts in the photo are as follows:
1 City water in connection
2 Flush shut off
3 Water Meter
4 Safety Black tank flush valve behind door
5 Pressure regulator
6 Safety pressure relief valve (adjustable to relief pressure)
Let me first say I have 30 years experience as “director or service operations” for a New York company involved in Chemical Manufacturing and servicing of COMMERCIAL dish washers in hospital ,hotels and restaurants.Giving this experience with vacuum breakers ,check valves and water flow I present the following.
Please also refer to the 2 photos attached.
I noticed when my water pressure regulator was set to 50 lbs and the camp grounds pressure maxed out at around 60lb …my pressure was reading 80lb and climbing. How is this possible.
Well truth be told, as you heat water in a closed system, water expands and so does the pressure. Some campers can stand the excessive pressure, while some older ones might break open hoses or connections.
Commercial pressure regulators, for this reason have a build in “backflow” system allowing this excessive pressure to flow Backwards into the water supply. Unfortunately the ones made for our camping use do not.
For this reason I have build one into my water incoming setup. To relieve this excess pressure before any damage can occur.
Now to Black Tank Flush piping.
The set up on most campers (see photo) has a check valve combo vacuum breaker setup to prevent Black water from flowing back into city water and polluting.
When you apply flush water pressure , the vacuum breaker closes allows water to flow pushing open the one-way check valve and into the black tank. See photo
Shutting off the water flow immediately closes the check valve, preventing sucking water up from the black tank. At the same time the vacuum breaker opens allowing air in the line breaking any suction of the black tank should that check valve fail.
So you see, you have 2 safeties stopping reverse black tank flow.
The water that comes back out of the flush connection (depending if you have a check valve there ) is FRESH water that only reached the vacuum breaker and is not contaminated.
I have built my water setup based on the above.
I have incorporated 2 things into the setup . A water meter to allow me not to overflow the toilet when back flushing. Also i switched to a commercial vacuum breaker & check valve and moved to under my bathroom sink.
And second an extra shut off valve next to the flush connection located BEHIND the water bay door. This is to make sure some kids don’t decide to have fun; turn on flush water and run away.
The numbered parts in the photo are as follows:
1 City water in connection
2 Flush shut off
3 Water Meter
4 Safety Black tank flush valve behind door
5 Pressure regulator
6 Safety pressure relief valve (adjustable to relief pressure)
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