Water tank falling out

Tessmanbuilders

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Oct 3, 2021
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I have a 230rl 5th wheel. Just got back from a weekend trip and noticed the under belly coming down. After further inspection, I see that the water tank is deformed and falling out. Anyone know what tank to replace it with?
 
For specific tank replacement information, you would have to contact GD Customer Service. Often the tanks are OK and it's the support system that needs replacing/repairing/beefing up. How badly is the tank deformed?

BTW, I see this is your first post. Welcome to the forum! You can create a signature block with your RV and tow vehicle information (see mine below). That way you won't have to repeat that information whenever you post or ask a question - and others won't have to ask. You can create a signature by going to:

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Rob
 
Me too, but I'm a few steps ahead of you. When my tank slipped I thought it was an earthquake!
2021-09-03 12.40.44.jpg

I took mine to a guy that repairs tanks of many sizes and types. He said it's ok, as the fold area doesn't have holes or cracks. (Front left in the photo)

I opted to put 1/2" plywood under all my tanks. They are all mounted the same way and showing signs of the same sagging as the fresh tank. (Insert rant) The plywood is held by 1.5" slotted steel angle, hung from the frame by 1/4" threaded rod. I used the same method on my slinky storage tubes.
2020-04-09 15.34.32.jpg
My fresh tank has 3 bars and the smaller tanks have 2. Interestingly, the fresh tank didn't need any drop but the other needed about 2".

I can post some more photos in a few days. My coroplast is just starting to get replaced. While I was at it, I put heat tape on some water lines, reworked the fresh tank overflow and generally cleaned up some questionable wiring and water routing.
 
Thanks guys! I ended up getting a new tank . I made up some new support brackets to hold the tank in better. I would some pictures. Old tank strap20211003_205432.jpg

20211014_101123.jpgnew tank straps20211014_101142.jpg
 
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Screws are not in to the tank . I also added rubber strip on top of the strap to help protect the tank from wearing
 
Thanks guys! I ended up getting a new tank . I made up some new support brackets to hold the tank in better.

I wish I had even your first tank straps. I considered doing something like this but had doubts about sagging straps. So here is my solution (sorry for delaying the photos), not as neat and pretty.

My fresh tank 2021-10-20 11.54.00.jpg, blank and gray 1 tanks2021-10-20 11.53.04.jpg, gray 2 is similar but no photos.
 
I wanted to add a comment about traveling with tanks full, it is not recommended by Lippert or Grand Design. After much discussion with Lippert techs at their Goshen shop, the main reason is that the tanks do not have baffles and the water sloshing starts to create issues to the main floor structure above and also their frame. And yes, even if full. This was surprising to me because there are times I need to fill up freshwater to get to my campsite. They told me to do this driving very slowly to minimize the sloshing. I also asked about how much water would be ok to travel with for overnight stops at Harvest Hosts or other. Between 5-10 gallons max. So now I fill up 5 gallons and bring an extra 5 in the truck if needed.
 
I wanted to add a comment about traveling with tanks full, it is not recommended by Lippert or Grand Design. After much discussion with Lippert techs at their Goshen shop, the main reason is that the tanks do not have baffles and the water sloshing starts to create issues to the main floor structure above and also their frame. And yes, even if full. This was surprising to me because there are times I need to fill up freshwater to get to my campsite. They told me to do this driving very slowly to minimize the sloshing. I also asked about how much water would be ok to travel with for overnight stops at Harvest Hosts or other. Between 5-10 gallons max. So now I fill up 5 gallons and bring an extra 5 in the truck if needed.

This is disheartening to me, it seems like a major design flaw.

I am on my 3rd year of 100% boondocking with full tanks on every trip. Looks like my winter project will be to add reinforcement to the tanks even though it does not address what Lippert told you. I hope to add extra metal straps to the surrounding frame supports to add strength to the frame around the tanks.

We'll see...
 
This is disheartening to me, it seems like a major design flaw.

I am on my 3rd year of 100% boondocking with full tanks on every trip. Looks like my winter project will be to add reinforcement to the tanks even though it does not address what Lippert told you. I hope to add extra metal straps to the surrounding frame supports to add strength to the frame around the tanks.

We'll see...

It was disheartening to me as well but made perfect sense. Remember, your main floor is held up by aluminum tubes that are welded and these welds may or may not be welded correctly. And subject to that much water sloshing might fail. Just wish they made baffled tanks.

One option I have is bringing a collapsible water bladders in the bed of the truck and then fill up at camp for those boondocking trips.
 
It was disheartening to me as well but made perfect sense. Remember, your main floor is held up by aluminum tubes that are welded and these welds may or may not be welded correctly. And subject to that much water sloshing might fail. Just wish they made baffled tanks.

One option I have is bringing a collapsible water bladders in the bed of the truck and then fill up at camp for those boondocking trips.

I do not believe the aluminum floor studs have anything to do with supporting the tanks.... At least none of my trailers have been built like that.. I cannot even imagine how that would work.
 
It was disheartening to me as well but made perfect sense. Remember, your main floor is held up by aluminum tubes that are welded and these welds may or may not be welded correctly. And subject to that much water sloshing might fail. Just wish they made baffled tanks.

One option I have is bringing a collapsible water bladders in the bed of the truck and then fill up at camp for those boondocking trips.

The straps that hold up the fresh and waste tanks are fastened to the steel chassis beams on either side.

Rob
 
I boondock 100%. I have been traveling with full tanks over 25 years. My momentum holds 155 gallons FW. I will travel with full tanks. I have had the under belly off for another reason, and I was satsified with the install on the FW tanks.
 
Why would they put such large tanks if it's not recommended to travel with water? Isn't that the whole idea of them, to BRING water with you becauseyou won't have water where you're going, i.e. travel with full tank. Are you not supposed to travel with Grey or black tanks full at all?

FWIW, I have over 7,000 miles on my trailer in 5 months, and mearly all travel has been with fresh water, usually pretty close to full or at least 50% full. No issues yet and have 155 gallon tank. It does eat up payload though.



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I do not believe the aluminum floor studs have anything to do with supporting the tanks.... At least none of my trailers have been built like that.. I cannot even imagine how that would work.

That is not what I meant. Yes the tank sits on straps that are attached to steel frame. Above the tank is the main floor and that main floor is supported by aluminum tubing. The tank can bounce up or down when you hit some rough areas of roads. And may damage those areas above it or suspension below.
 
That is not what I meant. Yes the tank sits on straps that are attached to steel frame. Above the tank is the main floor and that main floor is supported by aluminum tubing. The tank can bounce up or down when you hit some rough areas of roads. And may damage those areas above it or suspension below.

I do not think this is a concern at anything close to legal speeds. I suppose the Dukes of hazard might be able to do it. But I am not wooried about it.
 
I wish I had even your first tank straps. I considered doing something like this but had doubts about sagging straps. So here is my solution (sorry for delaying the photos), not as neat and pretty.

My fresh tank View attachment 37314, blank and gray 1 tanksView attachment 37315, gray 2 is similar but no photos.



Rick how do you plan to reattach the coroplast to the steel frame with those beam clamps, rods, and brackets hanging down like that?
 
Thanks guys! I ended up getting a new tank . I made up some new support brackets to hold the tank in better. I would some pictures. Old tank strapView attachment 37246

View attachment 37247new tank strapsView attachment 37248

Nice clean looking work! Grand Design should take a lesson about tank support from you. Once you get the coroplast back up make up a bracket to fit your needs and relocated your freshwater tank dump valve to a more convenient access point. I extended my drain and located it behind the rear landing gear. I also extended the overflow pipe and added a valve to shut off while traveling so I don't loose any freshwater.

Screenshot_20211011-223624_Photos.jpg
 
I have a 230rl 5th wheel. Just got back from a weekend trip and noticed the under belly coming down. After further inspection, I see that the water tank is deformed and falling out. Anyone know what tank to replace it with?

HI,

I have a 2018 290bh and my water tank recently dropped down without warning, causing damage. I have inquired to Grand Design about help with repairs due to inadequate support (actually NONE) under the water tank due to their initial design. They have been stalling and I am compiling a list of others who have had problems with their fresh water tank. They are now asking me for model numbers, years, and even VIN numbers, etc. While I don't expect you to give me sensitive information such as your VIN number, can you please tell me what year your trailer is? I'm becoming quite disenchanted with their customer service. Thank you.

Jeff Belcher
 

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