What can we do to avoid a problem?

Leechantee

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Joined
Aug 7, 2021
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17
We full time and are going to be leaving the RV for a week for a vacation. It is in the Carolinas and the temps have been around 40 during the day and mid 20s at night. Propane has been lasting 4-5 days max before we have to switch tanks (30lb). We do have tank heaters, and it is 2021 solitude with the insulating layer underneath, but it is not skirted in the location we are right now. With this, and a heated water hose we have had no issues whatsoever, but it is forecasted to get slightly colder this coming week (low of 19).

Things we have read say that pipes can burst and you should winterize, etc.... but how can the pipes burst if we turn the water off and all tanks are drained? Also, how do you “winterize” if you are living in the RV full time? Any help is appreciated.
 
Things we have read say that pipes can burst and you should winterize, etc.... but how can the pipes burst if we turn the water off and all tanks are drained? Also, how do you “winterize” if you are living in the RV full time? Any help is appreciated.

Think of it like a stix-n-brix house. If you are living in it, with the heat going, and you have a greater water hose, there is very little chance of any of the plumbing freezing. You have a Solitude, so you have an insulated belly and it is heated via the heater, when the heater is running. As long as you have the inside of the coach above 50°F, you should be fine.

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But if that propane runs out while we are away on say day 5 and it does drop below freezing.... what problems will we have and why do these problems happen if there is no water in any of the pipes or tanks (if we drain everything)?
 
However, if you are like most and leaving it one for that period of time you're likely shutting off water and all open flame. So, you will have it dip into hard freeze territory and you don't need full lines to burst one from a freeze. I'd the water is in a localized spot, that's all it takes. As a full-timer, you winterize like anyone else with anti-freeze. The Nautilus was designed with ease in mind for such things. Follow the procedure and empty with low points, empty water heater, and take up the antifreeze being sure to have it flow from all faucets, include washer hookup and exterior faucet and spray port. A few gallons is all you need. When you get back, flush, sanitize, back to living normally.
 
But if that propane runs out while we are away on say day 5 and it does drop below freezing.... what problems will we have and why do these problems happen if there is no water in any of the pipes or tanks (if we drain everything)?
Ah, got it! When you drain the lines the is still water in them, the only way to remove the water is to used compressed air, at around 40 PSI, or RV antifreeze. If your tanks are empty, that isn't a big deal. If you are connected to shore power, keep the tank heaters on, just in case.

Generally, if you leave the thermostat set at 50°F, a total of 60 lbs of propane should last over a week. Just make sure that both tanks are open and full before you leave.

What [MENTION=26275]geotex1[/MENTION] said above! (He beat me to it.)

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We have a total of 60# but we were under the impression that we can only open one 30# tank at a time. Anyone know if there is a way to have both open at a time?
 
We do this frequently. I turn off the water and disconnect our heated hose (and unplug it). I turn off the water heater. I then set the furnace to 45 degrees. This will keep the utilities in the basement from freezing - even in the teens and low 20s. In this configuration with highs in the 40s and lows in the 20s to low 30s, two tanks will last two weeks no sweat (the regulator is auto-switching).

Rob
 
We have a total of 60# but we were under the impression that we can only open one 30# tank at a time. Anyone know if there is a way to have both open at a time?

I don't know where you got that "impression." The regulator is auto-switching and designed to have both tanks open at the same time. Find the manual for the regulator in your paperwork packet and read up on it.

Rob
 
Well the knob turns one direction for one tank, and to switch the other way you turn that way.... we just assumed leaving the lever in the center meant they were both off? Is that not the way it works?
 
Well the knob turns one direction for one tank, and to switch the other way you turn that way.... we just assumed leaving the lever in the center meant they were both off? Is that not the way it works?

No. Turning the knob one direction tells the regulator to use that tank first. When that tank is empty, the regulator will automatically switch and the indicator will turn red. You then turn the knob the other way (the indicator will turn green again) and replace the empty tank. The cycle will work the same way when the designated primary tank is empty. I don't know what leaving the lever in the center position does - if anything.

Rob
 
yes, that is our problem there will be nobody here to switch the knob over to the other side, and the 30lbs has been running out in about 4-5 days
 
yes, that is our problem there will be nobody here to switch the knob over to the other side, and the 30lbs has been running out in about 4-5 days

What I'm trying to tell you is that you don't have to switch the knob to use both tanks - it will automatically switch over. What have you had the thermostat set on when using 30 lbs. in 4-5 days? It won't go nearly that fast with the thermostat set at 45... and you'll have 60 lbs. of LP if you leave it with two full tanks (again, it will switch over automatically).

Rob
 
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yes, that is our problem there will be nobody here to switch the knob over to the other side, and the 30lbs has been running out in about 4-5 days

You don't need to flip switch for the regulator to use the other tank. Starting with both tanks full, say you have the switch toward the door side. The regulator will start using gas from that tank. Once it runs out the indicator will turn red and it will start pulling from the off door tank (assuming both tanks are open). When you check the propane and see red you know that whichever tank the switch is pointing too is out of propane and needs to be refilled. Flip the lever and it should go green showing you have gas in that tank. Take out the first tank and get it refilled. When the second tank is empty it will auto flip back to the first tank (hopefully now refilled) and the red indicator will be back showing the second tank is now empty. rinse and repeat!

I think leaving the lever in the center will pull from both tanks. Useful in very cold situations when the propane is slow to gas off. But once its gone your SOL. But I could be wrong, never tried it
 
You can also change to 40lbs tanks for more capacity. They fit, just not as easy to get in and out since they’re taller than the door opening.
 
We full time and are going to be leaving the RV for a week for a vacation. It is in the Carolinas and the temps have been around 40 during the day and mid 20s at night. Propane has been lasting 4-5 days max before we have to switch tanks (30lb). We do have tank heaters, and it is 2021 solitude with the insulating layer underneath, but it is not skirted in the location we are right now. With this, and a heated water hose we have had no issues whatsoever, but it is forecasted to get slightly colder this coming week (low of 19).

Things we have read say that pipes can burst and you should winterize, etc.... but how can the pipes burst if we turn the water off and all tanks are drained? Also, how do you “winterize” if you are living in the RV full time? Any help is appreciated.

As you learned, there can still be water in sections of the plumbing, that could cause problems when it freezes. Expanding ice inside things (like a water pump) can crack fittings/housings/etc. In main lines, expanding ice with no outlet can compress the air in the lines to such an extent that they burst.
Safest is to drain everything, then winterize with antifreeze. It is quick to do, cheap, and doesn't take all that much (2-3 gal). You do not need to add any to any of the tanks, just drain them (Empty tanks have lots of room for water to expand in to!). Just get it in all the plumbing - low point drains, toilet line, laundry (if equipped), outside showers, etc. Read how to bypass your water heater - it just needs to be drained, and does not need antifreeze. Pour a cup or two into each of the waste drains (sinks, shower, laundry). Leave all drains/taps open.
On your return, reconnect and put some water in you water tank, run the pump, and flush all the lines. Since you're only flushing out a couple of gallons, it won't take much water. RV Antifreeze is safe to put down the sewer line. It is non-toxic, so while you want to get it out, any tiny bit missed will do no harm. Reset the by-pass on the water heater and fill it up.
Sanitizing is always good to do, but not needed for getting the antifreeze out. The first time you do this, it may take 45 min. for you to winterize as you learn. 15 min. to get back to normal on your return. The next time, you will be twice as fast. Will cost about $15 or less, cheaper than running heat while you are gone, which you won't need to run at all.
Many use compressed air to blow out the lines, which works too - but it takes the same amount of time, and you need a compressor with a decent amount of capacity (no 12v tire inflator). For just once-in-a-while, antifreeze is the way to go. You'll be surprised at how "not a big deal" it ends up being.
 
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We have a total of 60# but we were under the impression that we can only open one 30# tank at a time. Anyone know if there is a way to have both open at a time?

So, my regulator has a lever style switch that if I just set it to the center, not right or left, it will automatically switch tanks. Does yours not do this?
 
So, my regulator has a lever style switch that if I just set it to the center, not right or left, it will automatically switch tanks. Does yours not do this?

That's kind of misleading: the regulator will change automatically if the lever is to the right or left, not sure about in the center. The lever is supposed to point to the tank in use, if green, or empty, if red.
 
So, my regulator has a lever style switch that if I just set it to the center, not right or left, it will automatically switch tanks. Does yours not do this?

In actuality it does not switch tanks, it draws from both at the same time. That is exactly why many people leave it to one or the other.

With the selector in the middle it will draw from both tanks at the same time until they are both empty. If one tank empties first it will draw from the one that has gas remaining.
 
In actuality it does not switch tanks, it draws from both at the same time. That is exactly why many people leave it to one or the other.

With the selector in the middle it will draw from both tanks at the same time until they are both empty. If one tank empties first it will draw from the one that has gas remaining.

So, I just did that last week on 2 completely full tanks. The result was the driver's side tank was completely empty after one week, and the passenger side one had about 2 gallons used out of it. That tells me it used one tank, then the other...
 
So, I just did that last week on 2 completely full tanks. The result was the driver's side tank was completely empty after one week, and the passenger side one had about 2 gallons used out of it. That tells me it used one tank, then the other...

Interesting, could be different regulators draw differently. My last trip I had it in the middle and ended up with 2 tanks half full.
 

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